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Results for Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

Hands On: Longines Master Collection Small Seconds SJX Watches
Longines Master Collection Small Seconds Jul 27, 2023

Hands On: Longines Master Collection Small Seconds

Longines marked a historical milestone last year with the well-received Master Collection 190th Anniversary, a watch that combines classic good looks with a modest price tag. Now the brand has taken the same styling and applied it to another model to create the Master Collection Small Seconds. The Small Seconds makes its debut in a pleasing variety of dial colours, including a fashionable “salmon”. As much of a value proposition as last year’s anniversary model, the Small Seconds retains the same aesthetic as its predecessor but with a subsidiary seconds at six that gives it a more retro feel. But because of the small seconds, it becomes a noticeably thicker watch. So even though it looks much like the anniversary edition, the Small Seconds feels different. Initial thoughts The Small Seconds is largely identical to its centre-seconds counterpart, so it has much of the same appeal. The design is a pleasing vintage style with all the right elements like Breguet numerals and leaf-shaped hands. Admittedly, the styling is somewhat generic – it’s vintage inspired rather than a remake – but the result is appealing, especially considering its affordability. Although the watch is clearly an industrial product, the details are done well, the engraved numerals are especially attractive. This is especially so on the anthracite and salmon dials, which have the numerals in contrasting plating. The anthracite dial is especially striking because it is a relatively uncommon co...

The Raymond Weil Freelancer Pop Bi-Compax Chronograph is a high-contrast proposition with a titanium build Time+Tide
Raymond Weil Jul 26, 2023

The Raymond Weil Freelancer Pop Bi-Compax Chronograph is a high-contrast proposition with a titanium build

The Raymond Weil Freelancer Pop Bi-Compax Chronograph adopts the light blue trend in style. Its bright contrasts, moody dial and name take influence from pop music. Between the dial, case and bezel, there’s a lot of interesting texture. The Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph has always been a laid-back, go anywhere, do anything watch.  The new … ContinuedThe post The Raymond Weil Freelancer Pop Bi-Compax Chronograph is a high-contrast proposition with a titanium build appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Parmigiani Releases the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor “Pacific Blue” SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier has again partnered Jul 25, 2023

Parmigiani Releases the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor “Pacific Blue”

Parmigiani Fleurier has again partnered with Singapore-based Sincere Fine Watches, resulting in the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Steel Pacific Blue SHH Edition. Conceived for the retailer’s independents-focused store, Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH), the watch features a unique, light blue hue for the barleycorn guilloché dial, while retaining the characteristic integrated-bracelet design and an ultra-thin automatic movement. Initial thoughts The Tonda PF has been a crowd favourite due to the fact that it’s an original take on the popular integrated bracelet design, while also having excellent proportions. At the same time, the barleycorn guilloché dial arguably boasts amongst the finest engine turning on a sports watch. So a new shade for the dial is a welcome thing, since it adds an good looking option to an already appealing watch. However, I would have hoped for something more distinctive to set apart the SHH Edition beyond the dial colour. Another guilloche pattern for the dial, for instance, would have made it truly stand out. While the standard model has proven extremely popular – Parmigiani has since unveiled many complicated iterations of the model – it is nice to see that this will only be produced in a limited quantity, adding a level of exclusivity to the new dial, which will surely be appreciated by clients of SHH. Priced at around US$27,000 before taxes, this carries a 10% premium over to the regular-production version. Considering that this is a limited ed...

Citizen Introduces the Promaster Diver “Fujitsubo” in DLC Titanium SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces Jul 24, 2023

Citizen Introduces the Promaster Diver “Fujitsubo” in DLC Titanium

Citizen’s flagship mechanical dive watch gets an upgrade with the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m “Fujitsubo”. The new “Fujitsubo” diver features a gradient-finish grey dial, but its standout feature is the case and bracelet in the brand’s proprietary hardened titanium alloy coated with diamond-like carbon (DLC). Initial thoughts Sometimes underestimated, Citizen’s dive watches don’t garner as much attention as those of its competitor Seiko, primarily due to the scarcity of mechanical dive in Citizen’s lineup. Most of Citizen’s dive watches are solar-powered or quartz. Nevertheless, the Japanese watchmaker has recently taken significant steps towards boosting its mechanical offerings, particularly with the introduction of the oversized and modern Promaster 200 m diver. The “Fujitsubo”, on the other hand, takes inspiration from the Challenge Diver of 1977, explaining its vintage styling. But this latest iteration exudes a more contemporary feel owing to the gradient grey dial and the DLC coating on the case and bracelet. The resulting shades-of-grey livery makes this stand apart from its predecessor, which was essentially a like-for-like remake.  Priced at US$1,195, the “Fujitsubo” DLC is a bit more expensive than the standard titanium model. Nonetheless, it justifies the higher price tag with improved aesthetics and the superior durability offered by the DLC coating. That said, it would have been even more appealing with the option of a rubber ...

The Norqain Wild ONE Gets the Skeleton Treatment Worn & Wound
Norqain Wild ONE Gets Jul 20, 2023

The Norqain Wild ONE Gets the Skeleton Treatment

This one seems like it was bound to happen. When Norqain unveiled the Wild ONE last year and hailed it as a next-gen, materials focused sports watch, it seemed clear that we’d get some ultra modern dial executions down the line to match the tech in the case. I was a pretty big fan of the first batch of Wild ONEs, but if there was an element that seemed a little “off” to me it was the dial. The repeating Norqain logo motif just didn’t seem to match the visual tone and vibe of the rest of the watch. I couldn’t quite put my finger on what would make it better, but with the new skeletonized version that was recently unveiled, I think they have the Wild ONE heading in the right direction.  Right off the bat, I realize this might be a somewhat controversial take. When Blake went hands-on with the Wild ONE earlier this year, one of his chief gripes was legibility. That concern is not likely to be abated with a dial that’s perhaps even more of an eye-chart, but in my opinion it “fits” the spirit of the watch a little better. While Norqain is ostensibly selling these as adventure watches for all manner of outdoor activities, to me they feel more in line with stylish, contemporary headturners like the Zenith Defy, or even watches in the Royal Oak Offshore line. Capable, yes, but designed to be gawked at more than anything.  The new Wild ONE Skeleton comes in two variants. One with a burgundy NORTEQ case with gold dial accents, and the other with a black NORTEQ case...

UPDATE: The winner of the Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will also get a VIP trip to Japan – under one condition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will Jul 16, 2023

UPDATE: The winner of the Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will also get a VIP trip to Japan – under one condition

The notion of a nature-inspired watch is nothing new for Grand Seiko, it is certainly their M.O. But when the Grand Seiko SBGJ269 “Pink Flannel Flower” Limited Edition was released last year it was a huge deal for multiple reasons. Firstly, the SBGJ269 was the first-ever Australian limited edition from Grand Seiko. Secondly, the 50-piece … ContinuedThe post UPDATE: The winner of the Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will also get a VIP trip to Japan – under one condition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines send you over the moon with their newest Flagship Heritage Time+Tide
Longines send you over Jul 15, 2023

Longines send you over the moon with their newest Flagship Heritage

Longines’ classic Flagship line gets a handsome new 38.5mm Heritage model in three colourways The new models feature both a moonphase and calendar function on a well-balanced dial The original Flagship made its debut in 1957, and was one of Longines’ first wristwatch collections Longines are one of the oldest watch brands in the world, … ContinuedThe post Longines send you over the moon with their newest Flagship Heritage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Itay Noy Debuts the Seven-Day Cycle Collection, a New Series of Watches that Take Things a Week at a Time Worn & Wound
Jul 10, 2023

Itay Noy Debuts the Seven-Day Cycle Collection, a New Series of Watches that Take Things a Week at a Time

Itay Noy, the Israeli watchmaker known for creative and whimsical calendar complications that take a philosophical view to the concept of time, is back with his latest creation, the Seven-Day Cycle. Announced just days ago and officially launching later this week at the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago, the Seven-Day Cycle is inspired by the idea of looking at the passing of time on a weekly, as opposed to daily, scale.  The centerpiece of the collection is the “Rest Day” watch. Rather than focusing on a daily progression of time, the watch seeks to visualize a weekly cycle. The day is indicated via skeletonized text around the dial’s perimeter, but instead of the day of the week, Itay Noy has given the days numerical values (first day, second day, third day, and so forth). The seventh day (by default) is marked as the “rest day” at the 12:00 position. Itay Noy notes that different religious traditions observe different rest days, so the rest day on the dial can be customized to the owner’s preferences. Dials are available in blue or white for this reference. The Seven-Day Cycle watch is also available in versions that name the days of the week in a more traditional way. The format, though, is largely the same, with skeletonized apertures spelling out the days of the week that are highlighted day by day as the week progresses. The blue and white dials seen in this version of the watch have dividing lines that should aid a bit in legibility, but all watches in the ...

Guide: Some of Our Favorite Summer-Ready EDC Gear Worn & Wound
Jul 7, 2023

Guide: Some of Our Favorite Summer-Ready EDC Gear

Whether it’s travel or staying close to home and relaxing, there’s always some room in your EDC to add some new gear. That’s half the fun of it – looking at your daily essentials and refining them to fit your individual needs. It’s an ongoing journey that focuses on having the right gear for the job. It’s no secret that we’re all pretty big gear fans at the Windup Watch Shop, so putting together some of our favorite Summer-ready EDC gear was a no-brainer. Let’s take a look at some brand new gear in the shop that’s sure to come in handy. Whether it’s travel or staying close to home and relaxing, there’s always some room in your EDC to add some new gear. That’s half the fun of it – looking at your daily essentials and refining them to fit your individual needs. It’s an ongoing journey that focuses on having the right gear for the job. It’s no secret that we’re all pretty big gear fans at the Windup Watch Shop, so putting together some of our favorite Summer-ready EDC gear was a no-brainer. Let’s take a look at some brand new gear in the shop that’s sure to come in handy. The post Guide: Some of Our Favorite Summer-Ready EDC Gear appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Oris Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Fives are finally in steel Time+Tide
Oris Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Fives Jul 6, 2023

The Oris Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Fives are finally in steel

The Oris Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Five has finally been given a steel alternative. While the bronze version from 2021 is still great, it’s not as versatile as a steel watch. Colour theory dictates that the different metal tones affect how we view the pastel dial colours. A couple of years ago you could barely go … ContinuedThe post The Oris Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Fives are finally in steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[VIDEO] Review: The Black Bay 54 – A Black Bay to Rule them All? Worn & Wound
Tudor launched Jul 6, 2023

[VIDEO] Review: The Black Bay 54 – A Black Bay to Rule them All?

It’s amazing to look back to 2018 and see the utter excitement and disbelief I felt when Tudor launched the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, a sentiment that was shared by many. It seemed as though our hopes and prayers had been answered. Finally, a vintage-inspired dive watch with a great movement at a smaller size, by a brand with provenance. While that seems like daily news in 2023, a sub-40mm dive watch, at the time, from a major Swiss brand was still hard to come by. It was clear Tudor had a hit. And, as per usual, we expected they would capitalize on that hit. In the conclusion of my review from 2019, I say “…it’s likely they will expand greatly on the collection.” I was wrong, and this is where the story of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, and Tudor, takes a slightly different direction. Rather than doing what most brands do, including themselves with other models, they pumped the brakes. The rainbow of options never came, instead, there were a total of five variations broken down as two in steel, a silver model (still crazy), a solid gold, and a bronze boutique edition. Not what we expected. 37mm is just right Tudor then left the Black Bay Fifty-Eight behind for a while, coming out instead with a series of unexpected sports watches in new-ish platforms. The Pelagos FXD, while part of their larger tech diver line, featured a different case, modified dial and bezel designs, and a genuine military tie-in. The Black Bay Pro put their GMT and a date complication into a 39mm c...

G-SHOCK Looks to the Northern Lights for Inspiration in New MTG-B3000 Aurora Oval Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Jul 4, 2023

G-SHOCK Looks to the Northern Lights for Inspiration in New MTG-B3000 Aurora Oval

A new MT-G from G-Shock brings a stunning selection of vibrant colors to the case, dial, and strap in a full embracing of its inspiration, the aurora borealis as seen from space. The watch is the MTG-B3000, and it uses a stainless steel recrystallization and deep-layer hardening processes with a rainbow IP coating applied to the surface that brings the shimmering ROY G BIV tones to life on the bezel and case. The result is an ever changing vibrance paired with blacks, reds, and purples to round out the effect. This is a watch that uses every surface, nook, and cranny to express the theme, and it makes a unique impression as a result, even for an MT-G.  Taking inspiration from nature is nothing new of course, as we’ve seen executed beautifully by the likes of Grand Seiko and others, generally in the form of a dial texture or the color palette at use. In typical G-Shock style, they’ve embraced the inspiration of the aurora in a unique manner thanks to their material processes and treatments. The aurora borealis is not a static event, occurring when charged particles collide with the earth’s atmosphere, causing billions of flashes to occur in sequence, giving the appearance of ‘dancing’ across the sky in an organic manner. Recreating this effect in a material was the goal for G-Shock, and one they achieved in a way that is unfortunately incapable of being captured in photographs. The process of creating the bezel begins with the stainless steel base, which undergoe...

CronotempVs & TAG Heuer Collaborate To Celebrate 60 Years of the Carrera With New Carrera CC Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Collaborate Jul 4, 2023

CronotempVs & TAG Heuer Collaborate To Celebrate 60 Years of the Carrera With New Carrera CC

The collectors group known as CronotempVs has revealed their latest project, and it’s with none other than TAG Heuer in conjunction with the 60th anniversary of the famed Carrera chronograph. The open collaboration done with the collector community uses the modern 42mm Carrera case, and dials in plenty of special details in the process on the dial and the movement. The watch is called the Carrera CC (CronotempVs Collectors), and it takes inspiration from the 1974 Carrera ref. 1153BN, aka the ‘Yachting’ so named for the orange segments within the minute totalizer.  CronotempVs and TAG Heuer have created a fitting modern tribute to the 1153BN with the Carrera CC, incorporating the same character of the original in the modern Carrera chassis. This is not the 39mm ‘glassbox’ template that we were quite fond of when we saw it in Geneva (and are currently working on our long term review), but it does bring the caliber TH20-00 into the equation via the modern Carrera case we’ve come to know and (maybe) love. This platform  captures a specific fan favorite reference and highlights its versatility, as well as the timelessness of the design language as a whole. The original 1153BN was presented in a cushion case, with a dark blue dial and orange accents, and these are the starting blocks of the Carrera CC. The contrasting chapter ring and orange accents have been put to use brilliantly here, at once honoring the original while taking it into a new direction altogether....

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak X Enamel Blue SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces Jul 3, 2023

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak X Enamel Blue

Ulysse Nardin is introducing a more classical iteration of its affordable Freak to mark the 15th year of PMT The Hour Glass, a luxury watch retailer in Thailand. The Freak X Enamel Blue maintains the avant-garde styling of the model while introducing a touch of old school elegance with a captivating blue enamel dial embellished with vibrant guilloché. Initial thoughts Ulysse Nardin, known for its experimental designs, pleasantly surprises by integrating a champlevé enamel dial into a watch that is otherwise unabashedly modern. The standout feature is the dial that combines the artistry of enamelling and guilloché, made possible by the brand’s in-house dial factory. This infusion of classicism into the inherently contemporary watch results in an understated and surprisingly harmonious aesthetic. As is always the case with a novel limited edition, hopefully Ulysse Nardin will maintain the exclusivity of this design and refrain from replicating too much in future models. The Freak X Enamel Blue carries a price tag of US$40,100, almost twice the cost of the standard model. While the dial is traditional enamel – painted and fired by hand in other words – the construction and movement remain unchanged over the standard model, making the price hard to rationalise. 15th anniversary The Freak X edition commemorates the fifteenth anniversary of PMT The Hour Glass, a joint venture between local jeweller Prima Times (PMT) and Singapore watch retailer The Hour Glass. Establish...

Getting Hands On With The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni WatchAdvice
Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni Jun 29, 2023

Getting Hands On With The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni

The new Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 Days) is a surprising watch and wearing it for a couple of weeks made me seriously consider the piece. But, not for the reasons I thought when I first saw the press release earlier this year! What We Love Vintage styled design aestheticGreat wearing, slim case profileThe textured, smoked gradient dial What We Don’t Case is a little too darkNo date (personal preference)Wire lugs take a little getting used to Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for money: 8.5/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 When Panerai released the new Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 Days) back in March for Watches and Wonders, I was immediately drawn to it, the distressed case, the textured smoked dial and the classic Radiomir look. So when I had the option of what Panerai’s I’d like to review next, I immediately jumped at the Radiomir Otto Giorni in blue. The new Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni in blue First Impressions In my experience, press images and renders of watches either go one of two ways. They either make the watch look super cool and the actual piece is a little underwhelming in person, or it goes the other way – they really don’t do it justice at all. Laying eyes on the new Radiomir for the first time, my initial reaction was “This is not quite what I excepted!” but in a good way. The distressed steel was a little darker than expected, the case was thinner and the 45mm diameter case did not look or feel this big at all. And the texture...

Oris Unveils the Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy in Steel (Yes, it’s 38mm, and No, it’s Not Limited) Worn & Wound
Oris Unveils Jun 27, 2023

Oris Unveils the Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy in Steel (Yes, it’s 38mm, and No, it’s Not Limited)

Just over two years ago, Oris came out with a series of watches with a bronze case and a confectionary dial. At the time, the interplay of the pastel-colored watches against such a warm-toned metal was an instant hit for many in the watch world. It was only a matter of time before the Swiss brand would be revisiting the Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy collection and improving upon it. Today, Oris has launched the much-anticipated follow-up to their 2021 collection with a new set of pieces, this time set in steel. The three colorways of this collection are a charming trio of blue, green, and pink. Still maintaining the candy-like quality of the previous iteration, the steel will definitely have a wider fanbase that, perhaps, couldn’t be sold on the bronze just yet. Keeping the integrity of the Divers Sixty-Five retro design, the new Cotton Candy collection’s steel case enhances the mod design that’s at once retro and modern. The steel case comes in at a friendly 38mm, the first time the Divers Sixty-Five has been available in this metal at this size in a non-limited edition, which is sure to please many. The easy to wear size makes it great for both men and women who might find the pop of color exciting. Wearers can choose between a steel bracelet or a perlon strap that matches the watch’s dial, giving one the opportunity to keep it subtle or a bit more flamboyant.  The details of this watch really showcase the amount of thoughtfulness that has gone into the design ...

Louis Erard and Massena LAB Follow Up on Last Year’s Regulator with a New Monopusher Chronograph Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Jun 27, 2023

Louis Erard and Massena LAB Follow Up on Last Year’s Regulator with a New Monopusher Chronograph

Last year’s Massena LAB collaboration with Louis Erard, a regulator in an unmistakably classic style with variants in gold and rhodium dial executions, was a success for both brands, with the watch being shortlisted for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. This week, that release gets a follow up in the form of the new Le Chronographe Monopoussoir Louis Erard x Massena LAB, a monopusher chronograph that shifts the design language of last year’s release to a new complication. The driving force behind Massena LAB, to make a style of watchmaking typically reserved for only the most well heeled collectors accessible to anyone, is very much apparent in the new monopusher, as it takes both a complication and visual aesthetic that are often associated with a certain level of opulence and made them quite a bit more approachable. The monopusher is an interesting counterpoint to last year’s regulator. In terms of mechanical complexity, the monopusher has a clear edge, yet the design here is striking in its restraint. The regulator shows its time telling information in a busy cluster of hands and subdials, but with the monopusher we only get one additional register, a 30 minute counter at the 12:00 position. It’s a simple and straightforward execution of a complication that can often be something of an eye chart, and with the single pusher that simplicity is carried over to the chronograph’s literal operation as well.  Aesthetically, we get a similar treatment on the ...

Longines Introduces the Spirit Zulu Time 39 mm SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jun 21, 2023

Longines Introduces the Spirit Zulu Time 39 mm

Originally introduced in 42 mm last year, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time now gets a more comfortable 39 mm case. The new variant retains all the appealing design elements of the original that are loosely inspired by the brand’s first dual time zone watch from 1925, including the legible dial and a vintage-style, bi-directional bezel. Initial thoughts The Spirit Zulu Time is a great example of how to execute a vintage-style watch. However, a significant drawback was the large, 42 mm size of the original, which was quite hefty on the wrist and not quite suited to the retro style. Longines clearly recognised this issue and responded surprisingly quickly in introducing a more wearable size. While the 39 mm size is certainly positive, the case thickness of 13.5 mm leaves it notably thick relative to the diameter; the thickness is comparable to some automatic chronographs. As a result, it may feel clunky on the wrist for some. That said, the reason for the case height is fundamental: the watch is powered by the same movement as the original.   Still, the Spirit Zulu Time continues to be an excellent value proposition, starting at US$3,050 in steel while the steel and gold model is US$4,200. The fact that the Zulu Time is a genuine GMT with an independent local-time hour hand makes it a standout amongst affordable dual-time zone watches. Although it may fall short in terms of movement sophistication compared to the similarly-priced Tudor Black Bay GMT, it has the advantage of ...

From Designer Eric Giroud, the New Schwarz Etienne Geometry Has One of the Trippiest Dials We’ve Seen Worn & Wound
Schwarz Etienne Geometry Has One Jun 20, 2023

From Designer Eric Giroud, the New Schwarz Etienne Geometry Has One of the Trippiest Dials We’ve Seen

A watch, like any designed object, is the product of a series of decisions, and those decisions can define it. At some point, whoever is making the thing has to determine what type of watch it’s going to be, what sort of movement it will have, the size, the style of handset and indices, the dial colors, and so forth. The most successful watches, in my opinion, are those made by people who have come to tough but deliberate decisions. We’ve all seen watches that feel like they are just too much in one way or another, and they never tend to work. The new Geometry by Schwarz Etienne is literally the watch equivalent of a fully loaded luxury car: when it comes to dial finishes, it has every option. But instead of being too much, it works in a sort of psychedelic way. Whatever you think of it, I think it’s hard to argue that it’s the product of some serious decision making.  The Geometry comes to us via designer Eric Giroud, who has previously worked with brands as diverse as Louis Erard, MB&F;, Mido, and many more. The dial is divided into four distinct quadrants, each incorporating different dial finishes and patterns. You can imagine any one of the single quadrants made as an entire dial, and the watch would probably look great. But broken into pieces, you get a sense of how these different patterns and finishes work with and against one another. The fact that it’s somewhat jarring to look at at first is a reminder of the difficulty of watch design in the first plac...

24 Perpetual Calendar Watches from The World's Leading Luxury Watchmak Teddy Baldassarre
Jun 14, 2023

24 Perpetual Calendar Watches from The World's Leading Luxury Watchmak

The most sophisticated type of calendar watch, a perpetual calendar is endowed with a mechanical “memory” that enables it to record and display the time, day, date, month, and often the moon-phase, accurately for many years. The complex movement in a perpetual calendar compensates for the length of every month, including February in both leap years and non-leap-years, meaning that it should not need adjusting until the year 2100, which is the next annum in which the Gregorian calendar’s leap-year cycle is disrupted (it will be the first year since 1900 that is exactly divisible by 100 but not by 400, and thus not a leap year). As you'd expect, perpetual calendar watches (called "quantième perpétuel" in French) are extremely complicated in their mechanics and design, representing one of the highest pinnacles of high horology and priced accordingly. Throughout the modern wristwatch industry, only a relative handful of brands have mastered the art of the perpetual calendar: we showcase some of them, and their most impressive perpetual calendar timepieces, here.  A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Introduced in 2021, the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar adopts the new approach taken to perpetual calendar design that the Saxon maison established in 2012 with the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar. In typical Lange fashion, the technical approach taken is complex in the service of user-friendly practicality. Its in-house, self-winding movement, Caliber L021.3, ...

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Review Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Jun 14, 2023

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Review

The vintage-inspired GMT watch is now available in a new 39mm size, in four distinct colorways including one steel-and-gold version. If you’re like many people who’ve seen the Longines Spirit Zulu Time watch since its initial launch in 2022, you’ve probably found yourself intrigued with its clean, legible dial, sleek-looking bezel, and meticulously finished case, even if you realized afterward that you really weren’t sure what “Zulu Time” was. Good news: we’re here to explain everything you might want to know about the Longines Spirit Zulu Time. Even more good news: if you liked the first crop of watches but found them too large for your taste, Longines is now supplementing the original 42mm offerings with new 39mm versions.   First, some background. As those with a background in either the armed forces or aviation (or both) likely know, “Zulu” is the radio transmission articulation for the letter “Z” (like “Alpha” for A, “Tango” for T, etc.) and the letter “Z” is used in military jargon to denote time based on the prime meridian in Greenwich, England, the longitudinal line that separates the Eastern and Western Hemispheres. Essentially, Zulu Time means the same thing as GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) or the more modern term, UTC (Universal Time Coordinated, albeit expressed in a more historically adventurous idiom, and a watch that displayed the time in this manner was particularly useful for early aviators before the rise of electronic guid...

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531R-014 Tokyo 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 10, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531R-014 Tokyo 2023

Amongst the special editions created for the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo is the World Time Minute Repeater Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5531R-014. The ref. 5531R-014 is the more complicated of the two world time models that mark the event – the other is the ref. 5330G – and features a cloisonné enamel dial. The dial continues with the motif first found on the ref. 5531R-010 made for the Grand Exhibition 2019 that took place in Singapore. Its centre is cloisonné enamel depicting a stylised map of the Chuo ward in central Tokyo, including the expansive grounds of Imperial Palace on the upper left. Initial thoughts Unlike the other two Grand Exhibition Tokyo 2023 complications – Quad Comp ref. 5308P and World Time ref. 5330G – that are new references containing new calibres, the ref. 5531R is a variant of a regular-production model. So while it less interesting from that perspective, the ref. 5531R-014 is still an compelling watch. The cloisonné map is an unusual motif for a dial, and almost abstract at a distance, but interesting and appealing. The watch does have intrinsic appeal, however, it also does look similar to the ref. 5531R-010 made for the 2019 Grand Exhibition in Singapore. In fact, the two are probably indistinguishable from across a room. Doing something more distinctive, for instance another case metal and dial colour, would have made this more unique. A bird’s eye view of Tokyo The cloisonné enamel dial captures the Ch...

The new Junghans Meister Pilot models put a fresh twist on pilot’s watches Time+Tide
Junghans Meister Pilot models put Jun 9, 2023

The new Junghans Meister Pilot models put a fresh twist on pilot’s watches

Junghans adds three new versions to the Meister Pilot collection The new dial colours include sand and navy blue A rich history complements great value for money Even if it seems like it, not every pilot’s watch has to look the same. The Junghans Meister Pilot is a novel take on a concept that’s in … ContinuedThe post The new Junghans Meister Pilot models put a fresh twist on pilot’s watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Accutron Spaceview Gets Modern Evolution Worn & Wound
Accutron Spaceview Gets Modern Evolution Jun 6, 2023

Accutron Spaceview Gets Modern Evolution

Accutron revived their famous electrostatic movement with a modern Spaceview in 2020, tapping into a heap of nostalgia in the process. This year, the Spaceview is getting its first major update with the release of the Spaceview Evolution, pushing the aesthetic concepts of the watch into new territory. The new variants retain every bit of the drama embraced by the original (both from the ‘60s, and from 2020), and dial up the ‘style’ factor thanks to some new finishes and color schemes that compliment the exposed components of the electrostatic movement. It remains as polarizing as ever, which is a refreshing move these days.  The new Spaceview Evolution offers a pair of new flavors that bring a light and a dark appearance to the platform. The biggest shift you’ll notice right off the bat is the rotated orientation of everything on the dial. This is due to the 30° counter clockwise rotation of the movement, which alters the dial layout, and moves the crown from the 3 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position. The move opens up the top portion of the dial a bit further, bunching the three large apertures into the bottom dial’s bottom half. In addition to the layout rotation, the bridge work that frames the exposed areas of the movement, as well as the chapter ring at the perimeter, have received a healthy dose of finishing work, both to their surface and to their edges. The sprawling framing bridge shape gets a guilloche look with diamond polished bevels, whi...

Isotope Celebrates their Seventh Anniversary with a New Logo and a Limited Edition Collaboration with Seconde/Seconde/ Worn & Wound
Isotope Celebrates their Seventh Anniversary Jun 1, 2023

Isotope Celebrates their Seventh Anniversary with a New Logo and a Limited Edition Collaboration with Seconde/Seconde/

Isotope has unveiled a new limited edition, made in collaboration with Seconde/Seconde/ to celebrate the former’s seventh anniversary. I’ve become a pretty big fan of the Isotope design language over the years – brand founder José Miranda has a good eye for color, and is one of only a handful in the industry who dares to inject a bit of humor into his watch designs. Seconde/Seconde/, of course, is all about the jokes, so when I heard there was a collaboration in the works, I was pretty excited to see what would come of it. The end result, the Hydrium Seconde/Seconde/, is surprisingly subtle, but better for it.  The high level brief here is “a Memento Mori watch, without a skull.” That, in and of itself, is kind of funny, at least if you’ve been tracking recent watches that take the Memento Mori as design inspiration. Why a death obsessed watch for a seven year anniversary? Isotope has retired their old logo, and just like life itself, the end of a logo is inevitable. The new logo takes the focus from Isotope’s “i” hand and shifts it toward the lacrima, the tear shape that has become a defining characteristic of the design of every watch they’ve made. The new logo is bolder and more sophisticated to my eye, so yeah, good riddance to the old. A fresh start never hurt anyone.  The design itself makes a few small changes to the familiar Hydrium dive watch platform. The (new) logo now reads “OTOPSIE” (autopsy) rather than “ISOTOPE,” with arrows sh...

NFTs, Cryptocurrency, Blockchain, and web3 are Environmentally Harmful: The New Trend for Watches is Hypocritical With Self-Professed ‘Green’ Low-Carbon Claims – Reprise Quill & Pad
May 27, 2023

NFTs, Cryptocurrency, Blockchain, and web3 are Environmentally Harmful: The New Trend for Watches is Hypocritical With Self-Professed ‘Green’ Low-Carbon Claims – Reprise

The luxury watch industry depends a great deal upon credibility. Which has led to Brendan Cunningham watching with some trepidation as various watch brands have started to enter the cryptocurrency / blockchain / non-fungible token (NFT) world. Here's why he thinks that it might not be a great idea.

Halios is Back with a New Limited Edition Made in Collaboration with Topper Jewelers Worn & Wound
Halios May 26, 2023

Halios is Back with a New Limited Edition Made in Collaboration with Topper Jewelers

Halios, Jason Lim’s microbrand that has developed a rabid following over the years, only increasing as new releases have slowed, is releasing a new watch today in a collaboration with Topper Jewelers out of Burlingame, CA. It’s a new Universa, but it incorporates dial elements typically found in the Seaforth, the watch that is in many ways the brand’s calling card. In that sense, it’s a bit of a hybrid, combining several elements of Jason’s design language that have endured over the years.  The Universa has a 38mm stainless steel case that is mostly brushed, but has a classic polished chamfer along the lugs. It has a sculpted, almost architectural feel to it, with wide facets and gentle curves. The bezel-less design gives the watch an old-school, no nonsense sports watch vibe, and it certainly wouldn’t be crazy to note that the watch takes plenty of inspiration from classic tool watches.  It’s the dial, though, that makes this Universa special. It’s a crisp white with hands and hour markers that have been accented in black for maximum contrast. The layout is taken directly from the Seaforth, and includes the same thick, applied hour markers that give the dial an increased sense of depth. Hash marks on the minute scale alternate between blue, yellow, and green, representing natural elements found near Topper’s headquarters in Burlingame (the ocean, northern California sunshine, and giant redwood trees).   Speaking to the intensity of Halios’ followin...