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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

You paid how much?? Five watches that look cheaper than they are Time+Tide
May 12, 2023

You paid how much?? Five watches that look cheaper than they are

In modern times, the words “stealth wealth” get thrown around a lot. Usually reserved for sophisticated watches often made of white metals like platinum, the idea is that your watch only hints at its true value. On the completely opposite end of the spectrum, there are those cheap watches that do everything they can to … ContinuedThe post You paid how much?? Five watches that look cheaper than they are appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[VIDEO] Hands-On: Argon Space One Jump Hour Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward shock May 11, 2023

[VIDEO] Hands-On: Argon Space One Jump Hour

Are you ready for the final frontier? Or rather, the next frontier? A new frontier, at the very least? Yes, all signs point to a big change in the world of watches on the horizon. A new world, or I guess frontier to be consistent, where you don’t have to win the lotto, inherit tons of wealth, or be uncommonly successful to buy an exotic watch. A world where brands that were once considered too small to matter are standing their ground against giants, showing that with a passion for watches and an innovative spirit, the seemingly impossible can occur. This is a very dramatic way of saying that there have been some cool releases in the last few years that have been accelerating in their frequency, indicating the beginning of a new trend of the previously “exotic” becoming more obtainable. We’ve seen affordable wandering hours pop up for a few years from the likes of Gorilla and Atowak. We’ve seen unexpected collaborations between approachable brands and high-end independents like Louis Erard and Vianney Halter. We’ve seen high-end independents branch out into the approachable space with offshoots like Kurono Tokyo by Hajime Asaoke, SUF Helsinki by Stepan Sarpaneva, and M.A.D. Editions by Max Büsser. We’ve seen Christopher Ward shock the world by releasing a dial-side sonnerie au passage with the C1 Bel Canto. We’ve seen more too, so perhaps the trend is already here. Reinforcing this is the subject of today’s review, the Argon Space One. The first watch by...

Why Tudor stole the show at W&W; 2023 Time+Tide
Tudor stole May 11, 2023

Why Tudor stole the show at W&W; 2023

At Tudor’s booth this year, the theme was evolution not revolution. While the titanium Pelagos 39 intensely stirred the best-modern-luxury-dive-watch pot, the brand’s main Watches & Wonders focus was the Black Bay range. Watch Andrew’s and Zach’s live reactions to the new releases below, and read on for a quick summary of each. Tudor Black … ContinuedThe post Why Tudor stole the show at W&W; 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Swatch Expands their Art Journey Collection with Three New Watches Inspired by Jean-Michel Basquiat Worn & Wound
Omega May 11, 2023

Swatch Expands their Art Journey Collection with Three New Watches Inspired by Jean-Michel Basquiat

For the last year, Swatch has existed primarily as the brand that makes and sells the MoonSwatch, their enormous, crossover hit made in partnership with Omega. It’s tough to underestimate the impact of the MoonSwatch on the watch world, mostly because its impact transcends the watch world. Your friends and family who are not part of the hobby, don’t read this site and others like it, and may not even own a watch, are almost certainly aware of the MoonSwatch. They’ve seen an advertisement for it, or have heard about it on the news, or perhaps they’ve stumbled onto the impressive MoonSwatch displays in a Swatch store, only to be told that the watches aren’t actually available to buy. Swatch has recently upped the ante somewhat on the MoonSwatch front by offering extremely limited versions with gold plated seconds hands, and it has me (and others) wondering if the hype for these watches has crested, and longing for Swatch to go back to making really cool Swatches like the ones so many of us grew up with.  The truth is, Swatch never stopped making exactly those kinds of watches, but they’ve been somewhat lost in the hysteria for the MoonSwatch. Now, though, comes a series of watches that I think might actually rival the MoonSwatch in terms of enthusiast interest, at least in some quarters. The latest entry in the Swatch Art Journey collection (that has already seen releases this year with watches based on pieces by Roy Lichtenstein, René Magritte, and others) is ...

Reddit: The best subreddits for watch nerds Time+Tide
May 11, 2023

Reddit: The best subreddits for watch nerds

Do you want to look at pictures of sliced bread stapled to a tree? Are you intrigued by the inner monologue of shoplifters? Keen to discuss the advantages of carrying around sand in your pockets? Luckily, Reddit has got you covered. Built to be “the front page of the internet”, as you’re probably aware, Reddit … ContinuedThe post Reddit: The best subreddits for watch nerds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Swatch wraps up their 2023 Art Journey with new Jean-Michel Basquiat triptych Time+Tide
Swatch May 10, 2023

Swatch wraps up their 2023 Art Journey with new Jean-Michel Basquiat triptych

The Swatch x Jean-Michel Basquiat collection marks the final collaboration of the Art Journey project Previous collaborations were with MoMA, Magritte, Louvre Abu Dhabi, and Le Gallerie Degli Uffizi The triptych includes three quartz-driven pieces inspired by Basquiat’s ‘Ishtar’, ‘Untitled’, and ‘Hollywood Africans’ artworks Swatch as a brand, not the conglomerate group, is widely credited … ContinuedThe post Swatch wraps up their 2023 Art Journey with new Jean-Michel Basquiat triptych appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Bulgari Aluminium collection adds bigger cases and fresh colours Time+Tide
Bulgari Aluminium collection adds bigger May 10, 2023

The new Bulgari Aluminium collection adds bigger cases and fresh colours

The Bulgari Aluminium collection has been expanded with bigger cases and new colours. The Capri Solotempo and Chronograph evoke the Italian island with an electric-blue gradient dial. The Match Point Edition adds a subtle touch of green for tennis lovers. The Bulgari Aluminium has always been a stealth watch, not because it has any degree … ContinuedThe post The new Bulgari Aluminium collection adds bigger cases and fresh colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

21 Small Dive Watches for Men and Ladies, from Under $100 to $10,000 Teddy Baldassarre
May 10, 2023

21 Small Dive Watches for Men and Ladies, from Under $100 to $10,000

Dive watches, as many of their enthusiasts know, are not generally known for being understated in their dimensions. This is, of course, by design, and in the service of both legibility and safety. To be used underwater, often in very dark conditions, a watch needs to be sizable enough (as well as luminous enough) for the wearer to discern both the time on the main hands as well as the remaining immersion period as set on the dive scale bezel. For these and other practical reasons, most watches built for diving tend to come in at 40mm and above in diameter. However, as the dive watch has become more a fashion statement and less a wearable tool - for ladies as well as gents - watchmakers have responded by downsizing some of their popular divers to offer more choices for a wider range of wearers, including those who will likely never wear their timepiece underwater. In some cases, the designs of these more modestly sized dive watches are even drawn from the brands’ archives, from historical eras in which smaller sizes were the norm, even for purpose-built tool watches like those made for divers. Using a 40mm diameter as our upper limit of “small,” here are 21 small dive watches, in ascending order of price, all of which combine professional-grade water resistance (at least 100 meters) with unisex appeal. Vostok Amphibia Price: $99, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 15mm, Lug-to-Lug: 49mm, Crystal: Acrylic, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Automatic Vostok Caliber 2416 Th...

HANDS-ON: The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans & Ripples Date bring new colour and complication Time+Tide
Speake-Marin May 10, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans & Ripples Date bring new colour and complication

These days, for a manufacture not to have an integrated watch design is a bit like not having a smartphone. Sure, there may be a bit of respect for these flip-phone manufactures resisting the trend and times. But, ultimately, in the midst of the craze, having a solid integrated sports watch within a manufacture portfolio … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans & Ripples Date bring new colour and complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHAT IF… Grand Seiko finally made a smaller dive watch Time+Tide
Grand Seiko finally made May 9, 2023

WHAT IF… Grand Seiko finally made a smaller dive watch

Editor’s note: What if? It can be a prefix of imagination, wonder and hope. On the other side of the coin, it can also provoke a melancholy game of hindsight. But within this new column, it is simply a space for us to experiment with our curiosity. Marvel fans will be familiar with the thought-provoking … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… Grand Seiko finally made a smaller dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Depancel Serie-R 5th Anniversary Time+Tide
May 9, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Depancel Serie-R 5th Anniversary

Five years is a drop in the ocean for a heritage watchmaker, but for a brand like Depancel the wooden anniversary is truly significant. The spirit of racing runs through them much deeper than their short existence may suggest, and they manage to stand out in a truly flooded market of motoring-inspired watches. Their best … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Depancel Serie-R 5th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A new three-day movement for the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart Time+Tide
Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Open May 9, 2023

A new three-day movement for the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart

Two new variants, the SPB415 and SPB417 join the Seiko Sharp Edged Series The 6R5J movement debuts with 72 hours of power reserve New details can be found on the case finishing and the dial Seiko’s Presage collection is known for its versatility, offering everything from higher-end Masterpiece models to more affordable Cocktail Time timepieces. … ContinuedThe post A new three-day movement for the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

R&B; singer Daniel Caesar is a serious watch geek and his Patek Philippe album cover is the stone-cold proof Time+Tide
Patek Philippe album cover May 7, 2023

R&B; singer Daniel Caesar is a serious watch geek and his Patek Philippe album cover is the stone-cold proof

There are many celebrities who are watch collectors and enthusiasts that get talked about extensively – such as John Mayer or Jay Z – but someone who isn’t discussed that much amongst watch lovers is Canadian R&B; singer Daniel Caesar.   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Daniel Caesar (@danielcaesar) The … ContinuedThe post R&B; singer Daniel Caesar is a serious watch geek and his Patek Philippe album cover is the stone-cold proof appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture Steel takes the value proposition a step further Time+Tide
Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture Steel May 6, 2023

The Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture Steel takes the value proposition a step further

Frederique Constant follows up their precious metal Classic Tourbillon Manufacture W&W; debut with two steel models Each model is limited to 350 pieces in honor of the 35th anniversary of the brand High value proposition – in-house tourbillon watch priced at US$15,695 During Watches & Wonders, Frederique Constant’s hero novelty was a new more compact take … ContinuedThe post The Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture Steel takes the value proposition a step further appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New Indiana Jones trailer shows Harrison Ford wearing a Hamilton for the saga-ending film Time+Tide
Hamilton May 5, 2023

New Indiana Jones trailer shows Harrison Ford wearing a Hamilton for the saga-ending film

If you could only watch movies from one series for the rest of your life, what would it be? Personally, due to the fact that the Marvel cinematic universe is far too expansive, the three I’d choose between are the Star Wars films, the Harry Potter films or the James Bond films. But were it … ContinuedThe post New Indiana Jones trailer shows Harrison Ford wearing a Hamilton for the saga-ending film appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: James Harden gifts NBA MVP Joel Embiid engraved Rolex Day-Date Time+Tide
Rolex Day-Date Back from Japan May 5, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: James Harden gifts NBA MVP Joel Embiid engraved Rolex Day-Date

Back from Japan and a much needed R&R; week on vacation in Aruba with my family, it is great to return to the Friday Wind Down saddle. Thanks for holding it down Borna! While in any given week there is a fair bit of watch news, this week has really been dominated by Rolex with watch spots … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: James Harden gifts NBA MVP Joel Embiid engraved Rolex Day-Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS ON: The Yema Urban Field combines a premium feel with vintage vibes Time+Tide
Yema Urban Field combines May 5, 2023

HANDS ON: The Yema Urban Field combines a premium feel with vintage vibes

Although the French brand Yema have never stopped producing watches since their inception in 1948, their lapse into relative obscurity during the ‘80s-‘00s has to qualify them among the best brand revivals of the 21st century. Professional divers, racing chronographs, and even space-faring pilot pieces are classics of the Yema catalogue, but the Yema Urban … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Yema Urban Field combines a premium feel with vintage vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Urwerk Takes the UR100V Back to Basics with New “Magic T” Worn & Wound
Urwerk Takes May 4, 2023

Urwerk Takes the UR100V Back to Basics with New “Magic T”

Urwerk released the UR100 concept to the world in late 2019 with a watch called SpaceTime.  The watch served as a new entry point to the brand, recalling the simplicity of their original 101 and 102 concepts, with an open view to their modern wandering hour carriage design. It was pure Urwerk, and it was also among their most wearable modern watches. The UR100V has matured over the years, with the addition of new materials, colors, and even strap options. It’s a watch that’s proven remarkably adept at expanding its personality in a variety of directions, from the Mayan style ‘Time and Culture’ to the other-worldly P.02 done with Collective Horology. At its core, though, the UR100 is a simple concept, and the latest addition to the collection leans into that simplicity.  The newest UR100V, dubbed the Magic T, gets a monochromatic treatment, presented in full bead blasted titanium from the case to the bracelet. The 3 dimensional dial adheres to the theme as well, with only sparse use of colors to aid in the legibility of telling the time (did I mention that this thing tells the time?). The Magic T is a distillation of the UR100 concept, a near bookend to the original SpaceTime, and an overall cleaner representation of the concept, which at its core, remains unchanged. Time is read via the hand rotating along the minute track at the bottom of the dial (if it can be called that?). The hand itself is attached to one of three hour carriages which house the rotating hou...

Five alternatives to the Tudor Black Bay 54, since you already can’t get one Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay 54 since May 4, 2023

Five alternatives to the Tudor Black Bay 54, since you already can’t get one

As soon as Tudor was founded as an affordable offshoot of Rolex, their cult popularity began. Even so, I don’t think many people could have predicted just how far things would come. The introduction of the Black Bay series in 2012 really accelerated Tudor’s journey out from Rolex’s shadow, and the last handful of years … ContinuedThe post Five alternatives to the Tudor Black Bay 54, since you already can’t get one appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vero Launches the Meridian, a Casual Weekend Watch with a Manually Wound Movement Worn & Wound
May 4, 2023

Vero Launches the Meridian, a Casual Weekend Watch with a Manually Wound Movement

One of the big hits of the recently completed Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco came from Vero, a brand we’ve been covering for years. The transformation that Vero has made as a company doesn’t get enough coverage. Longtime readers might remember the time we took a look at how Vero was manufacturing watches at their Oregon headquarters, but since that time, the brand has changed their strategy and found their groove with an entirely new aesthetic. In 2021, with the launch of the Open Water diver, Vero made a hard pivot toward outsourcing their manufacturing to trusted Swiss partners, and refocusing the brand on customer service (they now offer a ten year warranty) and shifting the design language into something a little bolder and more colorful. The Open Water and Workhorse Chrono have proven to be durable hits on the microbrand scene, each spawning multiple new references since they made their debuts, and now they’re joined by the Meridian, a handsome manually wound piece that is a completely Vero take on the classic field watch.    Vero characterizes the Meridian as a “weekend watch,” which is borne out in the casual color schemes of the two models that recently launched the collection. First up is the Rambler, a bright blue dial with a red and white outer track, and easy to read black Arabic numerals at each hour. We also have the Rally, which is something of an inversion of the Rambler with its cream colored dial and accents in the perimeter in blue and r...

Black magic: The Chopard Alpine Eagle Japan Limited Edition Time+Tide
Chopard Alpine Eagle Japan Limited May 4, 2023

Black magic: The Chopard Alpine Eagle Japan Limited Edition

Chopard’s Alpine Eagle honours Japan with a blacked-out Shikkoku dial. The sapphire display caseback has also been tinted a dark grey. To further chase simplicity and zen, the date display has been removed. After the Chopard Alpine Eagle was introduced in 2019, putting a contemporary twist on a 1970s design, it quickly became one of … ContinuedThe post Black magic: The Chopard Alpine Eagle Japan Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

10 favourites from the upcoming Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I Auction Time+Tide
Rolex ContinuedThe post 10 May 3, 2023

10 favourites from the upcoming Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I Auction

To call anything ‘important’ is a matter of subjectivity, especially when you’re talking about luxury watches. That said, anyone who takes a look through the lots of Sotheby’s latest batch from the upcoming Important Watches auction will be dumbstruck. From rarities like the 1970s Heuer Monaco ‘Dark Lord’ to classics such as the platinum Rolex … ContinuedThe post 10 favourites from the upcoming Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I Auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Alpina introduces an Extreme Alpiner quartet on its 140th birthday Time+Tide
Alpina introduces May 3, 2023

Alpina introduces an Extreme Alpiner quartet on its 140th birthday

It was birthday season at Watches and Wonders 2023 with Swiss brand Alpina celebrating its 140th year of existence. Established in 1883, Alpina has become synonymous with sports watches since establishing its core design tenants of anti-magnetic, steel, shock-resistant, and water-resistant watches way back in 1938. In 2022, Alpina’s revamped Alpiner Extreme collection caught the … ContinuedThe post Alpina introduces an Extreme Alpiner quartet on its 140th birthday appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium offers a subtler take on the brand’s avant-garde designs Time+Tide
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium offers May 3, 2023

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium offers a subtler take on the brand’s avant-garde designs

The Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium brings lightness to the original Excalibur design A case-matching multi-link bracelet completes the monochrome design Equipped with a micro-rotor, the calibre RD720SQ is an utterly avant-garde take on a time-only movement You may be surprised to learn, as I was, that Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur collection is coming up on nearly two … ContinuedThe post The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium offers a subtler take on the brand’s avant-garde designs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Everything you need to know about Norqain Time+Tide
Norqain There are plenty May 3, 2023

Everything you need to know about Norqain

There are plenty of brands who like to talk about adventure, whether it’s marketing a new field watch or boasting about water and resistance. Reading up on Norqain, it’s almost a surprise when you remember that they made watches and not adventure gear like icepicks and tents. So how did Norqain go from nonexistent in … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about Norqain appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches With Two Timezones: 24 Best Travel Watches from Entry-Level to Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Promaster Nighthawk Price $391 May 2, 2023

Watches With Two Timezones: 24 Best Travel Watches from Entry-Level to

Aimed at frequent travelers, watches with two timezones are among the most practical of complicated timepieces. Even in an era in which it's easier than ever to check one's current time on any mobile device, being able to read two distinct times more or less simultaneously with a simple glance at one's wrist is still a compelling argument to recommend such a watch to anyone whose work or leisure takes them far from home on a regular basis. In this article we take a look at a range of dual-time watches (also called "GMT" watches, named for the calculation of "Greenwich Mean Time," or the worldwide 24-hour timekeeping system based upon the Greenwich Meridian in London), priced from entry-level to high luxury, from a variety of watchmakers large and small.  Citizen Promaster Nighthawk Price: $391, Case: 42mm, Lug Width: 26mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water-Resistance: 200m, Movement: Quartz Eco-Drive, Water-Resistance: 200m The Citizen Promaster Nighthawk Black PVD sports a highly technical dial that takes its cues from instruments in the cockpits of U.S. military helicopters. The watch’s 42-mm case is made of black PVD-coated stainless steel and its black dial is packed with scales in contrasting white type that are of particular use to aviators and navigators, including the circular slide rule printed on the ion-plated rotating bezel. Two luminous central hands display the current time, while an airplane-tipped smaller hand shows the time in another time zone on a 24-hour sc...

Seiko Updates Sharp Edge Series With New 3 Day Automatic Movement Worn & Wound
Seiko Updates Sharp Edge Series May 2, 2023

Seiko Updates Sharp Edge Series With New 3 Day Automatic Movement

Seiko welcomed the Sharp Edge series back in 2020, and the watch has gone on to welcome some of our favorite Presage watches in the process, with last year’s GMT being a particular favorite. The broad, angular case with a distinctive fall off around the wrist is joined by the asanoha dial pattern to present a wholly unique experience within the Presage range. This week, Seiko welcomes a pair of new references to the Sharp Edge family, which open the dial to reveal a new 6R5J 3 day automatic movement within. The movement echoes the same updates we’ve seen rolled out across the 6R range, providing a small bump to the power reserve.  The new Sharp Edge watches are indeed what you’d call ‘open heart’ designs, with an aperture directly over the balance wheel placed to the 9 o’clock side of the hand stack. It’s not quite that straightforward here, as there is a bridge layered over the view that recalls the very pattern seen on the dial, the asanoha, or ‘hemp leaf’ motif is rendered across the circular opening, adding a bit of visual continuity with the rest of the dial and presenting a slightly more interesting take on the open heart concept. Two dial colors are on offer here: a light option called ​​shironeri (SBP415), which represents unbleached white silk; and a deep blue option called aitetsu (SPB417). The blue dial fades to darker tones at the dial’s perimeter, but both dials are rather dynamic thanks to the inset pattern offering plenty of surfaces...

Hands On with the All New Nodus Unity Worn & Wound
Nodus Unity I must admit May 2, 2023

Hands On with the All New Nodus Unity

I must admit that I have been admiring this LA-based microbrand from afar for quite some time. I promise I will try to avoid the easy pun about taking “Nodus” despite my Dad status and love of cringy, unfunny jokes. Although Nodus watches have been a regular feature on my Instagram feed and at RedBar events, I haven’t had the chance to try them on or examine them closely myself. So when Nodus reached out and offered me a sneak peek at their new Unity line of watches, I jumped at the opportunity. Soon after, my curiosity got the best of me and I asked for a review sample.  After seeing the watch in photographs, I was intrigued by its unique concept and bold use of color. It struck me as distinct from anything else in the Nodus catalog, particularly in contrast to their previous Duality Unity with its dual crown and inner rotating bezel. Still, I had reservations about where a watch like this could fit into my collection. A few days later, it arrived, and the timing couldn’t have been better. I wore it during a sunny Easter weekend and for a few days at the beach, and my initial intrigue quickly turned into fondness. The attention to detail, comfort, and playful color scheme charmed me.  $700 Hands On with the All New Nodus Unity Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 Dial Pink/Blue Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 150 Dimensions 36.5 x 43.5mm Thickness 11.3mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $700 The first...

Frederique Constant celebrates 35 years with three new releases Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin May 2, 2023

Frederique Constant celebrates 35 years with three new releases

Established in 1988, Frederique Constant is a relatively new player on the Swiss watch scene with a mere 35 years under its belt – a blink in the eye of the likes of Vacheron Constantin. Despite its comparatively shorter history, the brand has still garnered worldwide success on the back of solid, classic design and quality … ContinuedThe post Frederique Constant celebrates 35 years with three new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.