Hodinkee
Introducing: The Universal Genève Relaunch Brings Back The Iconic Polerouter In Eleven Variants
The new Polerouter is offered in two sizes, with a new microrotor movement and a distinctly modern sensibility.
Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys
30,271 articles · 158 videos found · page 362 of 1015
Hodinkee
Fratello
Universal Genève Is Back! Introducing Four Collections, With The Famous Polerouter Leading The Way
Finally, after two years of teasing, Universal Genève is back. Yes, the brand is back in a tangible way with four collections and a soon-to-open flagship store in the heart of Geneva, its city of origin. From the 1940s through the 1960s, Universal Genève stood among the most respected names in high-end Swiss watchmaking. The […] Visit Universal Genève Is Back! Introducing Four Collections, With The Famous Polerouter Leading The Way to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The Universal Genève Polerouter relaunches in force, with no less than 11 new models
The Polerouter is finally back and with a bang of 11 references across the newly launched range, with plenty of variety to discover. The post The Universal Genève Polerouter relaunches in force, with no less than 11 new models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Universal Genève Is Back. Here's What You Need to Know About the New Watches
An iconic Swiss watchmaker, known for avant-garde designs and inventive movements, picks up where it left off.More
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex vs Orient: Hands-On Affordable Watch Brand Showdown
Timex vs. Orient? After years of hands-on testing, we reveal which brand wins. Compare real-world performance, durability, and more to choose the right option.
Monochrome
Introducing – Chinese Indie Watchmaker Qian GuoBiao Presents the new AB-05 Skylight Series
Over the past few years, Qian GuoBiao, an independent watchmaker working in Dongguan, China, known as “the tourbillon doctor“, has established a quite disciplined design language, shaped by his background in the restoration and application of traditional hand-finishing. His earlier watches focused on clarity, proportion and the display of mechanics, incorporating visible balances without resorting […]
Fratello
Qian GuoBiao’s New Skylight Models Might Just Be My Favorite Watches From Him Yet
There’s something very satisfying about seeing a watchmaker push a familiar idea a little further without losing the thing that made it appealing in the first place. That was my first reaction to the new Qian GuoBiao Skylight Original and Skylight Sun. On paper, the concept is simple enough. This is Qian GuoBiao’s first partially […] Visit Qian GuoBiao’s New Skylight Models Might Just Be My Favorite Watches From Him Yet to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Return of the Angelus Tinkler 1958 Quarter Repeater
Angelus is a historical Swiss watch brand founded in 1891 in Le Locle by Albert and Gustav Stolz, known for technically ambitious and award-winning chronographs, multi-complication watches and even chiming models. After a long period of dormancy following the quartz crisis, the brand was revived in 2011. Tapping into its rich archive, Angelus has gathered […]
Monochrome
Introducing – New Editions of the Union Glashütte Averin Chronograph
Square chronographs are rare, and inevitably, any watch in this category gets compared with the iconic TAG Heuer Monaco. Since its debut in 2008, the Averin Chronograph by Union Glashütte has occupied similar territory, combining a bold, geometric case with a sporty chronograph display. Earlier versions looked to form their own identity and relied on […]
SJX Watches
In Depth: The Horological Evolution of Jacob & Co.
Since “Jacob and Jeweller” made its first foray into fine watchmaking two decades ago, Jacob & Co. has positioned itself as a master of maximalism in all its forms, both bejewelled and technical, with some of the brands’s most audacious creations free of gem-setting entirely. The story of Jacob & Co.’s rise as an independent watchmaker features a celebrated cast of constructors. While other brands focused on vertical integration, Jacob & Co. opted to become a patron of promising complication specialists and independent watchmakers, funding their visions while challenging them with its own. Now, 20 years on, Jacob & Co. has evolved into a major player in the ultra-high end watchmaking segment, and is one of the fastest growing brands in an otherwise downbeat market; according to the brand, its 2025 watch sales were close to CHF300 million at retail. The brand’s obvious success is due to both its astute commercial instincts, founder Jacob Arabo’s inimitable personality, and also its ability to bring technically demanding movements to market and iterate on them with remarkable regularity. The gongs of a minute repeating Astronomia, one of the line’s many flankers. Few brands have managed to build credibility in both jewellry and watchmaking simultaneously. On the occasion of the brand’s 40th anniversary, it’s worth looking at how Jacob & Co. has succeeded where others have failed. Chapter 1: The Quenttin Jacob & Co.’s first 20 years were somewhat quiet on...
Worn & Wound
The Hamilton Fontainebleau “Day ‘N Date” 6004: The Potential Catalyst for an Innovative Case Design Renaissance
I feel that the contemporary watch market has a noticeable lack of fun, exciting, and unique watch case designs. Brands have put a major emphasis on dials made from rare materials or composed of intricate designs recently, but very few companies have put time into producing cases that offer a special experience for the wearer. Round and tank-styled timepieces are, and will forever be, the norm within the watch industry. However, this gap in the modern market gives collectors a chance to look back into vintage catalogs to familiarize themselves with fads and stylistic ventures of previous horological eras. With this in mind, I’d like to take a trip back to 1968 and examine the creation of the Hamilton Fontainebleau series, specifically the 6004 “Day ‘N Date” reference, to exhibit just how innovative case design can truly be. It’s typically an overlooked piece of the design formula, but when a watch features a case profile unlike any other, it certainly stands out among the pack. A Brief History of Fontainebleau and the 6004 In 1966, the patents for Hamilton designer Ulrich Nydegger’s new case were published. A couple of years later, the first few Fontainebleau models hit the market and garnered a decent amount of popularity. It wasn’t until 1969’s Fontainebleau Chrono-Matic chronograph, however, that the line would see a substantial amount of press and recognition for its innovative design. The collectibility of the Chrono-Matic model continues to increase o...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Casio’s Affordable Automatic Watch Is Back With a New Movement
The new Casio Edifice EFK-110D refines the brand's affordable automatic formula with a thinner case, new movement, and competitive pricing.
SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces First Proprietary Movement
Independent watchmaker Ressence unveils the Type 11, powered by a proprietary movement for the first time. The trailblazer of oil-filled mechanical modules, Ressence has so far relied on third-party base movements to power its eccentric creations. The Belgium-based watchmaker has finally taken the next step and developed its own calibre, dubbed the Ressence-Werk RW-01. Initial thoughts Ressence watches are instantly recognisable for their inventive and minimalist way of telling the time, using the patented Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) to put a new spin on the classic time display. Using a clever arrangement of planetary gears powered by a base movement, Ressence has achieved an original functional design that remains unique to this day. In terms of design, Ressence has an unmistakable, contemporary look, not unlike that of Apple. As a result, partnerships like those with industrial designer Marc Newson feel natural. The concept behind Ressence’s signature time display is the use of clear silicone-based oil which fills the hermetically sealed ROCS module to the crystal. The fluid medium cancels out total internal reflection, leading to the illusion that the turning disks sit right under the crystal itself. In this respect, Ressence dials can at times look like an OLED screen in a smartwatch. The Type 11 continues the signature streamlined minimalism of past Ressence models, but adopts a less complicated display. There are hours, minutes and seconds, arrange...
Deployant
New: Louis Erard X Alain Silberstein – two additional references
Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein continue one of modern watchmaking’s most distinctive collaborations with the Smile‑Day Blue and the Tourbillon Régulateur Blue. These two new models open the brand’s newly introduced Hall of Fame collection and reaffirm a shared philosophy that blends technical seriousness with joy, color, and personality.
SJX Watches
Bonniksen Reborn with Handmade Le Carrousel
Bonniksen makes its debut with the aptly named Le Carrousel, a 30-second carrousel wristwatch that will launch under the secondary banner of Naissance d’une Montre 4, which means it will be fully handmade. Le Carrousel’s completion date has not been announced, but good things take time, especially when made without the assistance of automated machinery. Left to right: Bonniksen co-founder and CEO Jason Chevrolat, Greubel Forsey CEO Michel Nydeggar, Bonniksen co-founder Maximin Chapuis, and David Bernard from the Time Æon Foundation. Initial thoughts It’s shaping up to be a big year for independent watchmaking, with a number of new and old names making their debuts. Bonniksen is among the latter, and looks to be a good-faith effort to do justice to the legacy of the inventor of the carrousel. While the rebirth of an old name is a familiar (if not tiresome) formula, one can’t help but appreciate the care with which the name of Bonniken makes its return. For one thing, the movement, which still exists only in sketches and models, is a true carrousel, built to co-founder Maximin Chapuis’ design after 5,500 hours of technical research. In other words, it’s not just an old name attached to an off-the-shelf calibre. The fact that it will debut as a Montre 4 in the Naissance d’une Montre project is another reason to take the effort seriously. If that weren’t enough, the brand has apparently been given the blessing of Bonniksen’s living descendants, which helps t...
SJX Watches
Anton Suhanov Returns with the Flamingo
Russian independent watchmaker and ACHI member Anton Suhanov returns with his third wristwatch, the dynamic Flamingo. Featuring Mr Suhanov’s first in-house movement, the Flamingo positions its massive balance wheel dial-side, and has a few other tricks up its sleeve as well. Initial thoughts Anton Suhanov made a name for himself for his inventive clocks, but more recently has turned his attention toward the more lucrative wristwatch market. Mr Suhanov’s first two wristwatches were modular constructions piggybacked on stock movements. Despite this common approach, his modifications were transformative, making his movements feel more personal and “in-house” than some truly in-house movements that are more traditional in concept. This evident commitment to the craft quickly gained Mr Suhanov a good reputation. After about four years of development, Mr Suhanov has unveiled a calibre he can truly call his own, the cal. Su26.1L. He built the movement from scratch, which gave him complete freedom both in terms of design and functionality. The result is a movement that possesses a number of unique and charming traits, both technical and aesthetic in nature. While the design of the Flamingo as a whole is deeply original (especially the use of non-functional ruby pallets for the hands), some elements on the dial side remind me of similar features of Greubel Forsey’s watches. For example, the two small sub-dials - a 24-hour indicator and small seconds - are rem...
Monochrome
Industry News – Corum is Back with the Revamped Admiral 39, Powered by a Proprietary Movement
As announced about a year ago, Corum is back in Swiss hands following a management buyout after the exit of Chinese Citychamp Watch & Jewellery Group. As Watches and Wonders is fast approaching, it is time for the new management to lift the veil on their strategy to get the brand back on track and […]
Time+Tide
How a local vintage watch community reshaped the way I see watches
Attending a physcial get together can change everything when it comes to approaching this hobby, and Jason found that out first-hand. The post How a local vintage watch community reshaped the way I see watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
This Watch Is Proof Blancpain Is More Than The Fifty Fathoms
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
Teddy Baldassarre
A World-Class Luxury Dive Watch Now with A Smaller Case - Blancpain Fi
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
Teddy Baldassarre
Casio Edifice Automatic Review: Casio Adds Smaller Case Size To First Mechanical Collection
Can the brand known for quartz and digital go mechanical?More
Monochrome
Hands-on – The New, Blue-Toned Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 in Titanium
Greubel Forsey has always been synonymous with highly complex, intensely finished movements presented as three-dimensional mechanical sculptures. In recent years, the brand has explored a slightly more “restrained” yet modern approach with models like the Balancier S and, more recently, the Balancier 3 introduced in 2023. The time-only Balancier 3 retained the brand’s signature depth […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Trilobe Trente-Deux Secret Edition
Founded in 2018, Trilobe chose to build its collection around an unconventional way of displaying time. Instead of hands, the brand relies on rotating rings and fixed pointers, creating a constant sense of motion across the dial. This concept, first seen in Les Matinaux and Nuit Fantastique, was later adapted for a sportier Trente-Deux. This […]
Worn & Wound
Albishorn Introduces their Latest “Imaginary Vintage” Watch, the Thundergraph Khumbu
Last week, Albishorn unveiled the latest in their ongoing series of “Imaginary Vintage” watches, the Thundergraph Kumbu. Founded by Sébastien Chaulmontet nearly two years ago, Albishorn is a high concept indie focused on a very specific strain of vintage watch inspiration. The watches that make up the Albishorn collection not only take their design cues from vintage watches, they are conceived as that never existed, but could have, and provide, as Chaumontet puts it, “a missing link” between the past and present. That centers each new watch on the idea of storytelling, and Albishorn has created elaborate imaginary backstories for each of their watches released to this point. (You can find our previous coverage of the brand here). The new watch from Albishorn, the Thundergraph Khumbu, is a new take on last year’s Thundergraph Himalaya, a chronograph conceived for alpine exploration. The idea here essentially was that on a climb, an alpinist would need easy legibility and the benefit of a rotating bezel to time ascent phases. The oversized crown and bezel, and monopusher chronograph execution, are also intended as design nods that would benefit a climber in difficult terrain (of course, these are straightforward tool watch design codes that could be applied to any number of situations – but that’s where the storytelling piece kicks in). For the new Thundergraph Khumbu, Albishorn has introduced a green dial, which the brand says is inspired by the landscapes ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Jack Mason Strat-o-Timer GMT Watch Review: A Practical Take on the Modern Diver
A hands-on review of the Jack Mason Strat-o-Timer Titanium Diver GMT, exploring its lightweight build, GMT functionality, and more.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback (RRCHF)
In-house, integrated, beautifully proportioned, and priced right, the industry's wunderkind is here to make (another) statement.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Hautlence Sphere Series 4
Since its recent revival under the MELB Group (owner of Moser and Agenhor too), Hautlence has focused on unconventional time displays with mechanical animation rather than traditional indications. The Sphere, first introduced in 2022, quickly became the brand’s signature series, combining a multi-axis spherical jumping hour with a retrograde minute. The new Sphere Series 4 […]
Time+Tide
Kiwame Tokyo introduces the MUNE(棟), inspired by iconic Japanese architecture
It goes without saying that here at Time+Tide, we love to champion microbrands. While we all love to see what’s new from the biggest brands, the microbrand sphere is the lifeblood of the watch collector scene; it’s where everyone can explore new things and express themselves with interesting, under-the-radar brands. There are niches within that … ContinuedThe post Kiwame Tokyo introduces the MUNE(棟), inspired by iconic Japanese architecture appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: Understanding Collector Psychology
Why do watch debates get so heated, so fast - and why does no one ever change their mind? On episode 34 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon sits down with King Flum, collector and author of the ScrewDownCrown Substack, to dig into the psychology behind the arguments that define online watch communities. Drawing on research from psychologists including Jonathan Haidt and Dan Kahan, the conversation covers why our preferences form before we start thinking, why smarter collectors tend to construct more elaborate - not more objective - arguments, and why an attack on your watch can feel like an attack on you personally. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Citizen Releases Three New Solar Chronographs With Clean Dials
Three new Citizen Eco-Drive chronographs just landed in Japan with clean dials, a tachymeter bezel, and solar power. Here's what we know.