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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

The best part of waking up: 5 awesome alarm clocks for watch collectors Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox travel alarm but Apr 22, 2023

The best part of waking up: 5 awesome alarm clocks for watch collectors

If you’re a horological junkie, there are better ways to rouse yourself from Dreamland than your iPhone. For the totally hardcore watch aficionado, you could always hunt down a classic Swiss travel clock, such as a Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox travel alarm, but if you’re looking for something minus the mechanical ticking that might keep you awake … ContinuedThe post The best part of waking up: 5 awesome alarm clocks for watch collectors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

D.C.’s top five releases from Watches & Wonders 2023 Time+Tide
Apr 22, 2023

D.C.’s top five releases from Watches & Wonders 2023

Now that the smoke has cleared, and I’ve had a moment to wrap my head around the enormity of Watches & Wonders 2023, I’ve nailed down a list of my favourites from the show. Yes, I realise my taste can be quirky, and you won’t find anything overtly dressy, blingy, or haute horology-leaning in my … ContinuedThe post D.C.’s top five releases from Watches & Wonders 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kendall Roy’s change in watches offers an unsettling hint of things to come… Time+Tide
Apr 22, 2023

Kendall Roy’s change in watches offers an unsettling hint of things to come…

In Succession, Kendall Roy is a twitchy psychodrama of a man in a cashmere baseball cap.  His personality flip-flops and flop-flips from one scene to the next. One moment he’s grandiose and narcissistic, the next he’s pitifully insecure. But most of all, Kendall is just very, very sad as he yearns for his father’s approval … ContinuedThe post Kendall Roy’s change in watches offers an unsettling hint of things to come… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Tanner T. Worn & Wound
Cartier Tank Must Solarbeat $2610 Apr 21, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Tanner T.

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Tanner T. shares a tidy three watch collection that spans from some all-time classics, to some newcomers on the scene. There’s plenty of style here to enjoy, and even a reminder not to take ourselves too seriously. Best of all, this collection could come in under budget at the right spec. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  I must admit this was a challenge, not because I am spoiled for choice (which we all are these days as watch enthusiasts), but because I actually aspire to not be a collector. Wearing and enjoying a single piece day in, day out is something I pursue and practice. There’s something rewarding about a watch so satisfying and inherently capable that it requires no stablemates. Now for the rest of us who live in reality and want to experience more, here are three watches that comprise a solid trio and share unique aspects about what keeps collecting interesting. Oh, and they all fit well under five thousand of your hard-earned buckaroos. Cartier Tank Must Solarbeat ($2610 in small, $2740 in large) Cartier’s reputation as the “Jeweler of Kings and King of Jewelers” is another way of suggesting they’re your favorite watch company’s favorite watch company (the folks at Jaeger LeCoultre are gonna love that). The storied maison has been on an incredible run over the last few years with reimagined hits li...

Hands-On: Horage Lensman 1 Worn & Wound
Bremont s ENG300 calibers Eventually Apr 21, 2023

Hands-On: Horage Lensman 1

Horage is a bit of an oddity in the watch world. Most brands build for years and years to be able to produce even a simple three-hand movement, should they even choose to go that route, and they tend to demand a high price. Horage has been working on theirs since its inception and has maintained a goal of industrialization over high prices starting with the K1, which had a silicon escapement and a modular complication system back at launch. Though it didn’t get the attention it deserved initially, it did inevitably ascend the horology ranks and prove its viability, as the K1 serves as the basis of Bremont’s ENG300 calibers. Eventually, Horage added the micro-rotor wound K2, featured in the Supersede. Another rarity, in addition to being thin, as micro-rotors tend to be, the K2 also featured modular design allowing for complications without increasing the base movement’s thickness by much, as well as a silicon escapement, 72-hour power reserve, and within chronometer accuracy. Another movement that would be impressive coming from a large luxury group, let alone an independent brand like Horage. While neither are small feats, today we’re looking at a watch with a movement that is perhaps even more impressive. The Lensman 1 features the K-TOU caliber, which is Horage’s in-house, Swiss-made tourbillon. Yes, you read that right. And the watch, despite featuring such a rare and exotic complication, comes in at under $10k. There’s a lot more to the watch as well, whic...

The Windup Watch Fair is Almost Here! A Full Breakdown of Everything to See and Experience in SF Next Weekend… Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Fortis Oris Apr 21, 2023

The Windup Watch Fair is Almost Here! A Full Breakdown of Everything to See and Experience in SF Next Weekend…

Now in its ninth year, and fourth in San Francisco, the Windup Watch Fair has become a fixture of the San Francisco watch community. Every April, enthusiasts, collectors, and newbies alike gather to shop and talk watches-and this year, there are even more events to participate in! Not only are there over 60 brands to check out at the Fair, we have for the first time in SF, a full slate of FREE panels and programming. We’ve put together a full rundown of special events below, but first, let’s remind everyone of the basics. As always, the Windup Watch Fair is free and open to the public. We’re able to offer this open access with the support of our presenting partners and, most importantly, our Lead Sponsors. This year’s Lead Sponsors include Accutron, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Oris, and Zodiac. All of these brands will have a significant presence within the Fair, with dynamic booth spaces and special events. We’re also beyond excited to be joined by over 60 presenting brands this year, which is double the size of last year’s events. The full roster of brands includes: And as a reminder, the event location and hours are as follows: Terra Gallery – 511 Harrison Street, San Francisco, CA 94105 Friday, April 28: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, April 29: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, April 30: 12PM – 5PM Throughout the days, attendees can expect food trucks, a full cash bar, dedicated lounge spaces, outdoor space, as well as sponsored giveaways from Bespoke Watch Project and Fils...

Seiko grows the SKX-style 5 Sports lineup by shrinking the case Time+Tide
Seiko grows Apr 21, 2023

Seiko grows the SKX-style 5 Sports lineup by shrinking the case

Seiko’s popular 5 Sports line grows with 4 versions in a new 38mm case size Four dial colours are available from launch, including a still-trendy teal variant The drop from 42.5mm to 38mm makes the SKX-style case friendlier to a wider range of wrists There was an audible gasp from watch nerds everywhere when Seiko … ContinuedThe post Seiko grows the SKX-style 5 Sports lineup by shrinking the case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Introduces the Tank Normale Skeleton SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Apr 21, 2023

Cartier Introduces the Tank Normale Skeleton

Having just introduced a revived version of the classic Tank Normale, Cartier also debuted a modern take on the design, the Tank Normale Skeleton. It’s equipped with a in-house skeletonised movement done in Cartier’s typical geometric style, but with a discreet twist in the form of a 24-hour time display. Initial thoughts  At a glance the Tank Normale Skeleton might seem like yet another skeletonised Tank, of which there have been several over the years. But look closer and it emerges as something more interesting. The dial tells the time on a 24-hour scale, a modest complication in mechanical terms but one that references Cartier’s historical day-and-night timepieces. And the complication is echoed in the sun-and-moon motif of the bridges rendered in a complementary Art Deco style. In short, it’s an elegant take on the day-and-night display done in quintessential Cartier style. Created especially for this model, the calibre inside is notably attractive. It’s fairly symmetrical in layout – the balance is at 12 o’clock while the barrel sits at six – and finished to match the style of the bridges. But it does still have an Etachron regulator, which is found in all Cartier skeleton movements but still out of place considering the price. And the price is steep. At US$71,000 in yellow gold and slightly more in platinum, it is pricey for a relatively straightforward skeleton watch. In comparison, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor also launched this year is ...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Naoya Hida teases new releases, Vulcain goes salmon fishing Time+Tide
Grand Seiko I thought I’d wind Apr 21, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Naoya Hida teases new releases, Vulcain goes salmon fishing

With Zach’s regularly scheduled programming interrupted by a Japan trip with Grand Seiko, I thought I’d wind you down for this week. With releases still coming in strong even after the biggest watch fair of the year wrapped up, we’ve got two releases from opposing ends of the horological spectrum. The rest is as you’d … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Naoya Hida teases new releases, Vulcain goes salmon fishing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

T+T’s favourites from the upcoming Independents Ineichen Auction Time+Tide
Ming Independents Ineichen Auction Ineichen Apr 21, 2023

T+T’s favourites from the upcoming Independents Ineichen Auction

Ineichen Auctioneers are renowned for promoting some of the most exciting watch auctions in the last few decades, and the upcoming Independents Auction is shaping up to shock and surprise. The focus hasn’t just been put on independent watchmakers, but specifically some of their rarest and even unique pieces that will command a lot of … ContinuedThe post T+T’s favourites from the upcoming Independents Ineichen Auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ryan Gosling commits grand theft auto in The Chase for Carrera Time+Tide
Apr 20, 2023

Ryan Gosling commits grand theft auto in The Chase for Carrera

While mainstream movie buffs may be up in arms over missed Easter eggs from the Mario movie and debating whether Oppenheimer or Barbie will take the cake for the best movie of 2023, real film connoisseurs will be keen to get their eyeballs on this – The Chase for Carrera. Starring none other than the watery-eyed … ContinuedThe post Ryan Gosling commits grand theft auto in The Chase for Carrera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC’S Chris Grainger-Herr talks heritage, innovation and the importance of details Time+Tide
IWC S Chris Grainger-Herr talks Apr 20, 2023

IWC’S Chris Grainger-Herr talks heritage, innovation and the importance of details

Walking into the IWC booth at this year’s Watches & Wonders, you were instantly transported into the 1970s, surrounded by iconic shapes from design geniuses of the time. To efficiently navigate this landscape that likely resembles the inside of Dieter Rams’ brain, you need a competent guide, and who better than IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr? … ContinuedThe post IWC’S Chris Grainger-Herr talks heritage, innovation and the importance of details appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Nomos Tetra quartet in shades of pink elevates a new contender for the colour of the year Time+Tide
Nomos Tetra quartet Apr 20, 2023

The Nomos Tetra quartet in shades of pink elevates a new contender for the colour of the year

Nomos are releasing four new versions of the Nomos Tetra in different pink hues. The pinks range from a subtle pop of hot pink to a deep aubergine with gold accents. Pink is looking like a contender for colour of the year. It’s often said that pink used to be seen as a masculine colour … ContinuedThe post The Nomos Tetra quartet in shades of pink elevates a new contender for the colour of the year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

An evening of watches, aviation and motorsport with Bremont Time+Tide
Bremont Apr 20, 2023

An evening of watches, aviation and motorsport with Bremont

On the evening of the Australian Grand Prix, Time+Tide were invited to an evening with Bremont that featured a guest appearance by co-founder Giles English. This was set to be the final event held in the brand’s current Melbourne boutique located on St. Collins Lane, before the move later in the year to their new venue … ContinuedThe post An evening of watches, aviation and motorsport with Bremont appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Say goodbye to the Rolex Milgauss Time+Tide
Rolex Milgauss Coming up Apr 19, 2023

Say goodbye to the Rolex Milgauss

Coming up to Watches and Wonders, many were excited to see a new Rolex Milgauss model or an updated version of the one running since 2007. Rumours even circulated about an all-titanium Milgauss. Watches and Wonders ended, brand new Rolex models came, and the Milgauss disappeared from the brand’s website without a trace. The Yacht-Master … ContinuedThe post Say goodbye to the Rolex Milgauss appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

CODE41 take the next step with the T360 Tourbillon Time+Tide
Apr 19, 2023

CODE41 take the next step with the T360 Tourbillon

Since CODE41 released their X41 AeroCarbon back in 2020, I have viewed the independent brand as a champion for watch collectors. Since their foundation in 2016, they have pushed the boundaries of affordability by offering highly technical watches for a fraction of the big-name prices. With an emphasis on clear, honest communication about component cost … ContinuedThe post CODE41 take the next step with the T360 Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Czapek & The Collective Hit the Beach With New P.04 Lanikai Collab Worn & Wound
Czapek & Apr 18, 2023

Czapek & The Collective Hit the Beach With New P.04 Lanikai Collab

The Collective has announced their latest Portfolio series watch done in collaboration with Czapek, and it’s just in time to capture some major summer vibes. The watch, which is called the P.04 Lanikai, takes inspiration from Hawaii’s unique beaches with a conceptual dial that captures their vibrant colors and textures. It’s a dial you can almost hear and feel, taking full advantage of the given real estate by forgoing even hour markers to maximize the feeling of connection with the source of inspiration. The concept is built within Czapek’s Antarctique 40.5mm steel case with integrated bracelet, and as fun as the dial is, it’s all business around back.  The watch is officially the Antarctique P.04 Lanikai for Collective, and the brand claims that three years of design, development and prototyping went into bringing it to life. Much of that revolves around the novel enamel dial which evokes those soft wave patterns of a sandy beach. The dial work was done by the artisans at Donzé Cadrans, who had to develop a process to create the unique scene in enamel. Their work begins with a concave blank, which creates the sense of depth to the dial even in its finished form. Next, the texture is stamped from a hand-engraved mold before the enamel itself is layered and fired. Enamel is notoriously tricky to get right, and the uneven depth at play here didn’t exactly help the situation, but there’s no arguing with the end result. All of that work is apparent at a glance...

Atelier Wen collaborates with Revolution on the Perception Xi “Jubilation” Time+Tide
Atelier Wen collaborates Apr 18, 2023

Atelier Wen collaborates with Revolution on the Perception Xi “Jubilation”

The Atelier Wen Perception has seen a few permutations by this point, initially launching as an incredibly well-priced entry point into hand-made guilloché, courtesy of the only Chinese artisan able to produce them. Though the price has risen considerably since the early bird specials, each new special edition had something unique to offer, and this … ContinuedThe post Atelier Wen collaborates with Revolution on the Perception Xi “Jubilation” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Czapek Antarctique P.04 Lanikai for Collective arrives on a cool blue wave Time+Tide
Czapek Antarctique P.04 Lanikai Apr 18, 2023

The Czapek Antarctique P.04 Lanikai for Collective arrives on a cool blue wave

The integrated design of the Czapek Antarctique P.04 Lanikai for Collective is the latest collab project created for the membership of Collective Horology A painstakingly crafted blue enamel dial evokes the aquamarine waters of the Pacific near Hawaii The in-house SXH5 movement is a visual wonder in its own right, providing an equally exquisite view … ContinuedThe post The Czapek Antarctique P.04 Lanikai for Collective arrives on a cool blue wave appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In Conversation with Jean Arnault: The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Revolution
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Eleonor sits Apr 18, 2023

In Conversation with Jean Arnault: The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize

Eleonor sits down with Jean Arnault, Marketing and Development Director for Louis Vuitton Watches, to talk about his much anticipated initiative to discover the next generation of independent watchmakers: The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize. The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize aims to raise the profile of independent watchmakers around the world that are creating watches in […]

The Quartz Crisis wasn’t solely to blame for the industry downfall, real trouble was brewing for years Time+Tide
Brew ing Apr 18, 2023

The Quartz Crisis wasn’t solely to blame for the industry downfall, real trouble was brewing for years

The history of timekeeping dates back to whenever the first creature wondered where the sun was in the sky, and the earliest evidence for calendars comes from Babylon and Egypt 5,000 years ago. In all that time, there haven’t been any horological events that are mentioned with as much dread as the Quartz Crisis. After … ContinuedThe post The Quartz Crisis wasn’t solely to blame for the industry downfall, real trouble was brewing for years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: History Repeats Itself with the Wolbrook X-15 Skindiver Worldtimer Worn & Wound
Vulcain Apr 17, 2023

Hands-On: History Repeats Itself with the Wolbrook X-15 Skindiver Worldtimer

Why start a watch brand from the ground up if you inherently have a keen eye for defunct brands with a legitimate history and product design substance that present-day enthusiasts can easily get behind. It’s a playbook we’ve seen exercised occasionally within the past decade, but in recent years, it seems like a go-to strategy implemented by those with incredible foresight, time and time again. I hope you don’t mistake this as complaining. As much as I love seeing a brand release something completely new and refreshing, I am overjoyed by seeing bygone brands properly getting resurrected. It’s a phenomenon we’ve seen with the likes of Aquastar, Vulcain, and Wolbrook Now what do these brands have in common? Well for starters, they were all revived around the same time frame, beginning in 2019 (Wolbrook). Brand heritage, as well as name recognition seems to be another trait at their core. For Aquastar, you have their charming divers famously worn by Jacques Cousteau and his crew during countless expeditions in the 1960s. With Vulcain, how could we not think of the Cricket and its historical ties to the United States presidency. And as for Wolbrook, well, you have a brand history that has a connection to the dawn of the space race, hypersonic rocket-powered jet testing and the first man to ever step on the moon, Neil Alden Armstrong. Wolbrook’s latest release is the X-15 Skindiver Worldtimer and is a tribute to one of the watches that Armstrong wore during his stor...

Ressence give their entry-level Type 8 a distinct sage-green treatment with new Type 8S Time+Tide
Ressence give their entry-level Type Apr 17, 2023

Ressence give their entry-level Type 8 a distinct sage-green treatment with new Type 8S

The Ressence Type 8 is the independent brand’s entry-level timepiece at CHF 12,500 Type 8 offers purely the essentials, just the hours and minutes via their proprietary ROCS system The Ressence Type 8S Sage dial joins the previous Type 8C Cobalt Blue as the second entry into the Type 8 line A clear requisite for … ContinuedThe post Ressence give their entry-level Type 8 a distinct sage-green treatment with new Type 8S appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Audemars Piguet Skeleton BA4266P002 is an intriguing vintage piece that demonstrates the brand’s history and craftmanship Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Skeleton BA4266P002 Apr 17, 2023

The Audemars Piguet Skeleton BA4266P002 is an intriguing vintage piece that demonstrates the brand’s history and craftmanship

Humans are strange creatures. We flock to what’s “hot” and turn our noses up at what’s “not” in order to feel a part of something. It happens all the time. In fashion, in cars and most definitely in watches. We stick with the hits (even when we can’t buy them!) and ignore the rest. For once … ContinuedThe post The Audemars Piguet Skeleton BA4266P002 is an intriguing vintage piece that demonstrates the brand’s history and craftmanship appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How the war for Instagram eyeballs changed brands’ approach to new releases Time+Tide
Ming Apr 16, 2023

How the war for Instagram eyeballs changed brands’ approach to new releases

Lion tamer, Professor of Advanced Mathematics, Alaskan crab fisherman… Truth be told there are many jobs that I’d be really, really bad at. But another profession where I’d also fail abysmally would be working as a buyer for a multi-brand watch retailer. The reason I’m aware of this additional shortcoming is due to my experience … ContinuedThe post How the war for Instagram eyeballs changed brands’ approach to new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How Zenith’s aviation heritage cemented their sky-high appeal Time+Tide
Zenith s aviation heritage cemented Apr 16, 2023

How Zenith’s aviation heritage cemented their sky-high appeal

Take a look at some of the most famous pilot’s watches of all time, and ask yourself what they’re missing. It won’t appear obvious at first, but once you’ve realised then it will seem like a glaring omission forever. The answer is of course the word “pilot” itself, which is entirely due to Zenith registering … ContinuedThe post How Zenith’s aviation heritage cemented their sky-high appeal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.