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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

VIDEO: The Bulova Sinatra Collection hits a variety of top notes Time+Tide
Bulova Sinatra Collection hits Feb 5, 2023

VIDEO: The Bulova Sinatra Collection hits a variety of top notes

People who like watches have hobbies and passions that extend beyond horology. Maybe its cars, or cigars, or whiskey or all the above. But one thing I have never met is a watch lover that doesn’t like music. Music is universal, and one of the biggest musical icons of all time is Frank Sinatra. So, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Bulova Sinatra Collection hits a variety of top notes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bargain alert: How you could snag 4 vintage Seikos for $44 Time+Tide
Seiko s Feb 4, 2023

Bargain alert: How you could snag 4 vintage Seikos for $44

In the internet age it’s become almost impossible to find a real bargain. People who don’t know what they have, can easily find out an item’s value with a quick search, and then throw their ads online with a firm price. On one hand, it’s hard to be angry about sellers getting fair value for … ContinuedThe post Bargain alert: How you could snag 4 vintage Seikos for $44 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Green Aventurine SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Feb 4, 2023

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Green Aventurine

With at least two iterations launched since the model’s debut – first in enamel and then onyx – the Code 11.59 tourbillon is third time lucky with the latest version of the model being the most striking to date. The Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Flying Tourbillon Green Aventurine is in 18k pink gold with the centrepiece being the fired enamel dial dial containing crushed aventurine glass.  Initial thoughts Bold and contemporary appears to be the name of the game for Audemars Piguet, as the recent releases indicate a strong push of the Code 11.59 lineup refreshed with modernised and adventurous livery. And the new Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon delivers on that front – love it or hate it, it is a markedly distinct variation of its conservative predecessors. The green dial combined with the package of the pink gold case and black ceramic case middle offers a striking contrast that’s intriguing in person. Colour contrast Black ceramic is the recent trend for Audemars Piguet, as the brand has been increasingly using the material as the case middle for the Code 11.59 lineup. Sandwiched between a pink gold bezel and case back, the combination is a decidedly contemporary appearance especially when paired with the stock rubber strap. But of course, the appeal of the new model is the green aventurine dial. Made by firing crushed aventurine glass in an 800°C furnace, the dial glimmers and sparkles under the light. The green colour luxuriously contrasts the dial adornments...

The DIY Series: How to modify your watch (Part 2) Time+Tide
Feb 4, 2023

The DIY Series: How to modify your watch (Part 2)

In Part 1 of this DIY Series, we went over the steps for assembling your own watch from scratch. Even if that’s not the avenue for you, maybe there’s a watch in your collection that’s never been quite as perfect as you’d hoped. If you’ve ever bought and sold similar black-dialled dive watches over and … ContinuedThe post The DIY Series: How to modify your watch (Part 2) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 11 Best Watch Books Every Collector Should Read Teddy Baldassarre
Ming Feb 3, 2023

The 11 Best Watch Books Every Collector Should Read

As we all muddle through the dead of Winter (at least here in the eastern U.S.) and await the coming of Spring and more frequent outdoor activities, many of us are finding ourselves keeping warm inside, with more time to curl up with a good book and read. As any watch enthusiast knows, a good, compelling watch book - whether devoted to a particular brand and its history, a niche category, or a broad narrative about timepieces and culture - can be a very worthwhile way to while away some quiet hours and delve deeper into their passion at the same time. Here we spotlight 10 of the best watch books out there today, several of which you can acquire right here on TeddyBaldassarre.com.  A MAN AND HIS WATCH: ICONIC WATCHES & STORIES FROM THE MEN WHO WORE THEM By Matt Hranek Perhaps no book in recent memory has explored the deep and unbreakable bond between watch owners and their most beloved timepieces quite as compellingly as A Man and his Watch, which offers not only the expected high-end photos, provided by Vogue and Dujour contributor Stephen Lewis, but also a host of personal memoirs by a collection of luminaries never before assembled between two covers. Hranek, author of A Man & His Car as well as two cocktail tomes and the founder of Wm. Brown, a men’s luxury lifestyle magazine, weaves together a plethora of sentimental stories about prized personal watches in a series of interviews with celebrities and influential figures from the world of horology. The tales r...

Is your expensive watch a turn-off for lovers and friends? Time+Tide
Feb 3, 2023

Is your expensive watch a turn-off for lovers and friends?

It was Henry Kissinger who famously claimed that “power is the ultimate aphrodisiac” and, given the philandering of countless politicians, it’s hard to argue with this assessment. In many cases, power does indeed seem to bestow an extra layer of sexual magnetism on plain men of sizeable influence. Yet when someone is not a recognisable … ContinuedThe post Is your expensive watch a turn-off for lovers and friends? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer comes in 6 lip-smacking flavours Time+Tide
Feb 3, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer comes in 6 lip-smacking flavours

The new Ball Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer has an internal bezel with domed sapphire. The internal bezel can be used underwater. Six colour options include green and blue in sunburst, and blue or brown matte gradients. It’s probably fair to say that the dive watch is as played out a genre you can find … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer comes in 6 lip-smacking flavours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hamilton Introduces a Wild New Jazzmaster Face-2-Face Worn & Wound
Hamilton Introduces Feb 2, 2023

Hamilton Introduces a Wild New Jazzmaster Face-2-Face

A few weeks ago, Zach Weiss told us about a little watch from Vario with a neat party trick. The Versa is actually two (quartz) watches in one, and thanks to a hinge, the dials can be flipped around to your liking, giving the owner options for a second time zone, or just a fun tactile sensation that is rarely seen at the Versa’s modest price point. Now, in a proverbial “Hold my beer…” moment, Hamilton has introduced a watch in their Face-2-Face series, a Jazzmaster that’s somehow both a business and a party on the front and back thanks to a clever rotating case design.  The Face-2-Face III continues a line that Hamilton has been working with since 2013, creating elaborate double-sided dial watches within the updated Art Deco framework of the Jazzmaster collection. These watches take a maximalist approach that is the antithesis of Hamilton’s pilot and military watch bread and butter, but in doing so serve as a reminder of the brand’s sometimes surprising ability to create a design that is truly off the wall. This is the brand that created the X-01, after all.  The Face-2-Face III starts with a 44mm case that can be flipped around on its axis by the wearer to display one of two distinct dials. The primary display is for time telling and chronograph functionality, while the secondary dial provides a view of the movement and a series of scales that one can use in concert with the chronograph. The architecture of the main dial is multi-layered, creating a sense ...

The Independedit: The Christopher Ward Bel Canto could prove the bargain of the year Time+Tide
Christopher Ward Bel Canto could prove Feb 2, 2023

The Independedit: The Christopher Ward Bel Canto could prove the bargain of the year

The Christopher Ward Bel Canto is the brand’s first take on a chiming complication Achieved with the help of a base Sellita SW200 and an in-house chiming module At its staggering price point, this may already be the bargain of the year The first modern microbrand shook enthusiast circles recently with their take on a … ContinuedThe post The Independedit: The Christopher Ward Bel Canto could prove the bargain of the year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Opinion: Let’s Talk About Celebrity Watch Ambassadors Worn & Wound
Feb 1, 2023

Opinion: Let’s Talk About Celebrity Watch Ambassadors

I’d like to start with a warning: what you’re about to read is going to be frivolous. This is not hard hitting watch journalism. It’s not a deeply felt opinion piece about a matter of great import to the watch world at large. And it’s not an in-depth review of a watch the community has its eye on. No, this little editorial is about something that’s been rattling around in my head for a while, and serves as an admission of sorts: I’m kind of fascinated by how watch brands use celebrity ambassadors.  Somehow, celebrity ambassadors have become the third rail of serious watch conversation. They aren’t taken seriously by hardcore watch enthusiasts, and bringing them up in a circle occupied by hobbyists will often garner an eye-roll. Hey, I get it. The deeper you are into any particular culture, the less impact advertising and the popular version of whatever it is you like has on you. In a previous life as an amateur Music Snob, I’d sneer at the suggestion that I’d enjoy anything that might be played on the radio. I’d begin to write bands off as past their prime when they gained enough traction to graduate from playing clubs to larger theaters. If 5,000 people want to see these guys at the same time, there’s no way they’re niche enough for me.  George Clooney would like to sell you a Speedmaster But over time, I’ve softened. I’ve even seen some of those bands I liked in college that were pretty obscure at the time go on to play arenas. Small arenas,...

Demystifying the mystery dial Time+Tide
Breguet s Mudges Feb 1, 2023

Demystifying the mystery dial

Many times, a horological invention is credited to a household watchmaking name. I bet that most of you won’t have heard of Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, however. Among Breguets, Mudges and Danielses, his invention was less technically impressive, yet no less astonishing, which may partly explain his amazingly successful career as a magician. Following in the footsteps … ContinuedThe post Demystifying the mystery dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The new Hublot Big Bang Zermatt Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Zermatt Jan 31, 2023

INTRODUCING: The new Hublot Big Bang Zermatt

This is the fourth release of the Hublot Big Bang Zermatt Hublot haven’t used steel in a Hublot Big Bang Zermatt since 2018 The Matterhorn is displayed in the running seconds subdial Between the Hublot-Express cable car, the Hublot-sponsored mountain restaurant of Chez Vrony, and the luscious wooden boutique in the centre of the town, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Hublot Big Bang Zermatt appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex Air-King: A Classic Pilot's Watch Revamped at Watches & Wonders Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Air-King Jan 31, 2023

Rolex Air-King: A Classic Pilot's Watch Revamped at Watches & Wonders

Only at Rolex can a watch dubbed a King be described as humble compared to other watches with less lofty but still commanding titles like Master. The Rolex Air-King, despite being the oldest existing model in the mega-brand’s star-studded lineup, has never attained the levels of mainstream popularity and collectability enjoyed by household-name watches like the Daytona, Submariner, GMT-Master, and (arguably) even the Yacht-Master. Rolex hopes to change that this year, however, making the newest version of the Air-King a headliner of its 2022 collection, unveiled this week at Watches & Wonders 2022 in Geneva. Aviation History The Rolex Air-King (technically Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King) traces its history all the way back to 1945, when it was launched as part of a trio of timepieces called the “Air Series” that celebrated the accomplishments of Britain’s Royal Air Force in World War II, alongside the discontinued Air-Giant and Air-Tiger. The Air-King, the last survivor of that collection designed “to honor the pioneers of aviation,” went through a number of evolutions throughout the years. The original model’s 34mm case (considered large at the time, believe it or not), cream-colored dial and manual wind movement would eventually be replaced by the now-familiar design most recently updated in 2016: a black dial with a 60-minute scale and inverted triangle at the 12 o’clock/60-minute position (a feature of historical pilots’ watches); large 3, 6, and ...

TAG Heuer is still in the driving seat when it comes to their racing sponsorship outreach Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Jan 31, 2023

TAG Heuer is still in the driving seat when it comes to their racing sponsorship outreach

TAG Heuer is certain to rank highly among lists of the most recognisable watch brands. Their commercial success in recent years, especially among our fellow Aussies, is rivalled only by a select few. The story is the same when one considers their rich and storied past, from their founding in 1860, until today. Patenting their … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer is still in the driving seat when it comes to their racing sponsorship outreach appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Honouring the “First” with maki-e magic - the new Grand Seiko SBGW295 Limited Edition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGW295 Limited Edition Grand Jan 31, 2023

INTRODUCING: Honouring the “First” with maki-e magic - the new Grand Seiko SBGW295 Limited Edition

Grand Seiko celebrates the 110th anniversary of Japan’s first wristwatch. The SBGW295 is inspired by Grand Seiko’s first watch from 1960 known as the “First”. Its black urushi lacquer dial and maki-e (sparkling picture) 24K powdered gold indices are crafted by master Isshu Tamura. I know it may seem like deja vu, after all, we did … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Honouring the “First” with maki-e magic – the new Grand Seiko SBGW295 Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[VIDEO] The Freak Gets an Edit, The Curious Ulysse Nardin Freak X Reviewed Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Reviewed Ulysse Jan 30, 2023

[VIDEO] The Freak Gets an Edit, The Curious Ulysse Nardin Freak X Reviewed

Ulysse Nardin is a peculiar brand. They have long been at the forefront of horological innovation, from marine chronometers in the 19th century, to creating stuff like DIAMonSIL in the 21st. However, they lack a singular, cohesive aesthetic that’s coalesced in broader culture in the same way watches like the Speedmaster, Submariner, or Royal Oak have. Except for a watch called the Freak, that is. A concept first released upon the world in 2001, the Freak was as impressive technologically as it was shocking to behold. With a movement that pivoted on itself to display the time, it was (and remains) daring, innovative, and downright novel. But, it never quite enjoyed a ‘hip status’ in the same way other exotic watches from the likes of MB&F; or Urwerk have since. This is likely due to a few reasons, but with the release of the Freak X in 2019, Ulysse Nardin is a whole lot closer. The Freak is a watch that has always commanded attention, both technically and visually speaking. The concept placed the gear train atop the mainspring, within a carousel that itself served as the minute hand. There was no dial to speak of, but rather a rotating plate containing the hour hand underpinning the structure. Winding and setting was managed via the deeply scalloped, somewhat steampunk-ish bezel unit. The launch of the Freak also marked the very first appearance of silicon within a watch movement, something the brand has been a pioneer of developing. This is a dramatic watch to behold ...

The Synchron Military Returns with Poseidon Diving Systems Connection Worn & Wound
Doxa Sub 300t Jan 30, 2023

The Synchron Military Returns with Poseidon Diving Systems Connection

It’s been quite awhile since we’ve heard from the brand Synchron. You might remember a couple years back, the brand re-introduced themselves to the watch world with the Synchron Military, a funky diver that fully embodied 70’s design. The limited release was an instant hit and sold out immediately. The case shape and design of the Synchron Military mirrored that of a Doxa Sub 300t, with its cushion silhouette and crystal that is affixed flush against the bezel. But that was the only thing the two had in common. The Synchron Military sported this quirky dial layout, peculiar handset, and a fully-indexed countdown bezel without the no-deco scale. At the time, that combination, in that case format, was unlike anything we’ve seen which probably made the Military so popular, especially since the Doxa Sub 300 was already a beloved piece. Synchron and Doxa have a connected past in multiple fashions, and it turns out that the Synchron Military design resides within the Doxa catalog in the form of the Doxa Army. It just so happened that the Synchron Military got a leg up on the Doxa Army. I’m sure bygones can be bygones between the two brands. There’s plenty of room to play in the sandbox after all, and Synchron is coming back in a big way. In their latest release, Synchron has tapped the Sweden based dive gear outfit, Poseidon Diving Systems, with their new Poseidon Ice Diver. The outer ring of the dial has the same blocky design. The black minute track is accompanied ...

Citizen’s Latest Pair of Divers Pay Tribute to Classic Promasters Worn & Wound
Citizen s Latest Pair Jan 30, 2023

Citizen’s Latest Pair of Divers Pay Tribute to Classic Promasters

Much of the country might be gripped by the dead of winter, but that doesn’t mean we can’t start thinking about the summer watches we’ll be wearing just a few (OK, maybe more than “a few”) months from now. In fact, I’d argue that a week where you see multiple major snowstorms leaving the landscape gray, salt stained, and dangerously icy is the perfect time to consider the next summer sports watch. The power of positive thinking, and whatnot. Citizen, it turns out, has a few contenders that have just been announced if you’re on the hunt for something fun and sporty for the warmer months. A bonus: these also work perfectly fine in an Ice Station Zebra situation, but I’m trying to lift myself out of a winter funk, so bear with me while I indulge a short lived fantasy of beach weather and strong drinks with those little umbrellas in them.  The pair of watches making their debut this month are built on Citizen’s fantastic Eco-Drive platform of solar charged quartz movements, perhaps the ultimate in affordable grab-and-go watch tech. Each watch is also based on Citizen classics from the early 00s, a period of time when the Big Watch trend was reaching a peak. The “Autozilla,” released in 2002, was a titanium dive watch with a water resistance rating of 1,000 meters in an enormous 55mm case. Citizen followed that watch up with the “Ecozilla,” a version of the watch with a similar case but powered by light, in 2004. Both are highly sought after by Citize...

OPINION: I am simultaneously fawning over, yet frustrated with, the new Grand Seiko SLGA021 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGA021 Grand Seiko has Jan 30, 2023

OPINION: I am simultaneously fawning over, yet frustrated with, the new Grand Seiko SLGA021

Grand Seiko has issued a standard production Lake Suwa sequel to the limited edition SLGA007, the new SLGA021 Includes an Evolution 9 case and bracelet, 9RA2 5-day Spring Drive calibre, Lake Suwa textured dial. The SLGA021 dial is darker than the previous SLGA007, and also does not use a golden-toned hand and logo like the SLGA007. … ContinuedThe post OPINION: I am simultaneously fawning over, yet frustrated with, the new Grand Seiko SLGA021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Five of our favourite Vacheron Constantin releases of 2022 Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin releases Jan 29, 2023

VIDEO: Five of our favourite Vacheron Constantin releases of 2022

Some may refer to Vacheron Constantin as the third member of the Swiss holy trinity of watchmaking. But after an incredibly strong showing last year, Vacheron may be the one you really need to explore. Here are five of our favourite releases from Vacheron Constantin in 2022.     First up, is the brand’s irrefutable … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Five of our favourite Vacheron Constantin releases of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Week in Watches Ep. 34: A New Balance from Omega, Dune Watches from Christopher Ward, and a Gold Metric from Brew Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Jan 29, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 34: A New Balance from Omega, Dune Watches from Christopher Ward, and a Gold Metric from Brew

Welcome to episode 34 of A Week in Watches, where we’ve got managing editor Blake Buettner jumping back in to discuss a handful of new releases, and one important survey. We’re kicking things off with the biggest news of the week that’s focused on something very small from Omega, and that is their new Spirate Balance, which we introduce on the site right here, and react to in real time right here. We still not sure how it’s pronounced but the technology is impressive! The watch its packed in also makes quite the statement, and we’d love to hear your thoughts on this one. That Omega wasn’t the only big news this week, though. Brew dropped a stunning gold Metric on us that works way better than it has any business doing. Is this the watch that gets us into gold? Likely. Next up are a couple releases from the UK, with the 36mm Three Hander collection of watches from Farer, and new C65 Dune watches from Christopher Ward. Lots of unique personality to find in these watches, from big colorful dials, to svelte shapely cases. Finally, we’ve got a watch and wrist size survey from Mark Cho of NYC’s The Armoury. Let your voice be heard by taking the survey found right here. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 34: A New Balance from Omega, Dune Watches from Christopher Ward, and a Gold Metric from Br...

Ash Barty collaborates on a new Rado True Square inspired by her mum Time+Tide
Rado True Square inspired Jan 29, 2023

Ash Barty collaborates on a new Rado True Square inspired by her mum

Apparently, Rado can turn you into a tennis champion.  When the British player, Andy Murray partnered with the Swiss brand in 2012, he’d never won a Grand Slam. After signing with Rado, however, he proceeded to win the US Open and then became the first Brit to conquer Wimbledon since 1936, when he won the … ContinuedThe post Ash Barty collaborates on a new Rado True Square inspired by her mum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton is a superstar in their 2023 lineup Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton Jan 28, 2023

HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton is a superstar in their 2023 lineup

It’s been a good couple of years for Zenith (waiting lists and all), and they’re off to a blazing start for 2023 with the release of the new Defy Skyline Skeleton at LVMH Watch Week in Singapore. This integrated model has been a popular pick since it was introduced, and the new version features some … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton is a superstar in their 2023 lineup appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Outfitting the wrists of the best-dressed celebrities of the last year Time+Tide
Jan 28, 2023

Outfitting the wrists of the best-dressed celebrities of the last year

By no means do I consider myself being the fashion police, but I think I can spot a good fit when I see one. Last year saw plenty of good ones, but the shortlist below is what I consider to be the most fashionable male celebrities over the past year. Though most of them are … ContinuedThe post Outfitting the wrists of the best-dressed celebrities of the last year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The IWC EasX-CHANGE straps refresh old favourites with a sporty touch Time+Tide
IWC EasX-CHANGE straps refresh old Jan 27, 2023

VIDEO: The IWC EasX-CHANGE straps refresh old favourites with a sporty touch

As the popularity of rubber straps becomes ever more apparent, and to aid in providing the best personal touch to their wearer’s watches, IWC is introducing a slew of options for the members of their Pilot’s range. Over the last 18 months the brand has updated the water resistance of their core Pilots range to … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The IWC EasX-CHANGE straps refresh old favourites with a sporty touch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.