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The Louis Moinet Impulsion Onyx Is A Showpiece Tourbillon Chronograph Fratello
Louis Moinet Jan 21, 2024

The Louis Moinet Impulsion Onyx Is A Showpiece Tourbillon Chronograph

Louis Moinet (1768–1853) was the inventor of the chronograph, so it’s always intriguing to examine the newest releases from the brand that bears his name. Today, we’ll look into the Impulsion Onyx, the latest variant within a line that debuted in 2023. This is an elegant watch with a sporty twist and a serious dose […] Visit The Louis Moinet Impulsion Onyx Is A Showpiece Tourbillon Chronograph to read the full article.

Introducing: The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Series Fratello
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Series Jan 21, 2024

Introducing: The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Series

Today, we’ll go hands-on with models from the newest Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot series. These are great-looking watches that bring a healthy dose of everyday utility along with cues from pilot’s watches. Expect great legibility and specs. Also, because this is Hamilton, all of that goodness is affordable. The Hamilton Khaki series will always have […] Visit Introducing: The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Series to read the full article.

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Baltic Farer Jan 21, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 72: A Year in Watches 2023 – Lorier, Baltic, Farer, and Friends!

Welcome to episode 72 of A Week in Watches. This week’s episode is part two of A Year in Watches 2023. This week, we focus on independent brands like Nodus, Lorier, Farer, Baltic, a fully American-made watch, and more. Naturally, there was way too much to cover again, so these were just a few highlights. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The best way to start the new year is a new watch. Head over to WindupWatchShop.com to check out new watches, limited editions, accessories, EDC, clocks, and more. The holidays are over, it’s time to get yourself something nice. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 72: A Year in Watches 2023 – Lorier, Baltic, Farer, and Friends! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Fratello’s Top 5 Current Seiko Watches Under €500 - Featuring Seiko 5, Prospex, And Presage Models Fratello
Seiko Watches Under €500 - Jan 19, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Current Seiko Watches Under €500 - Featuring Seiko 5, Prospex, And Presage Models

Another Friday, another Top 5! After two lists of the best watches under €1,000, we’re staying on the topic of affordable watches. This week’s list focuses on the best Seiko watches under €500. The Japanese brand used to be the undisputed king of affordable mechanical timepieces. However, with rising prices, we sometimes think those days […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Current Seiko Watches Under €500 - Featuring Seiko 5, Prospex, And Presage Models to read the full article.

Your Pizza Is Ready! - Introducing The Highly Requested Studio Underd0g Pepper0ni And Hawaiian Chronographs Fratello
Studio Underd0g Jan 19, 2024

Your Pizza Is Ready! - Introducing The Highly Requested Studio Underd0g Pepper0ni And Hawaiian Chronographs

Did anyone order pizza? Well, actually, I know many of you did. When Studio Underd0g founder Richard Benc and Time+Tide founder Andrew McUtchen seemed to launch a pizza watch last April, watch enthusiasts went wild. Unfortunately, it was a very well-played April Fools’ joke, and everybody could soon get back to what they were doing. […] Visit Your Pizza Is Ready! - Introducing The Highly Requested Studio Underd0g Pepper0ni And Hawaiian Chronographs to read the full article.

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Havid Nagan HN00 Worn & Wound
Rolex   Jan 18, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Havid Nagan HN00

I think there’s a certain trajectory to watch collecting that the vast majority of enthusiasts will be familiar with. It’s been discussed at length, and might even represent something of a self fulfilling prophecy at this point. It goes something like this: you start out with the fan favorite affordables, dabble in big Swiss brands that take a depreciation hit and can be found readily on enthusiast buy/sell/trade platforms, discover the insane variety and value of microbrands, and then eventually, if it’s a brand that has meant something to you before you even knew that watch collecting was a thing, you wind up at Rolex.  This is vastly oversimplified of course, but a version of this has happened to me and many collectors I know personally. Muy own observation though is that it’s what happens next that really determines where you go in the hobby. Because there’s a path where you just keep acquiring Rolex sports watches like Pokemon. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with that – they are objectively excellent watches to own. But I think a certain number of collectors have a Tony Soprano, late season 6 moment sometime after picking up that GMT-Master or Submariner, and ask themselves: is this all there is? $8000 Hands-On: the Havid Nagan HN00 Case Titanium Movement Schwarz-Etienne ASE200 Dial Plum Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 40.7 x 49mm Thickness 11.6mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Ye...

Introducing – The Furlan Marri x Time+Tide Outback Elegy Monochrome
Furlan Marri x Time+Tide Outback Elegy Jan 18, 2024

Introducing – The Furlan Marri x Time+Tide Outback Elegy

When Furlan Marri released their reference 2116-A, our editor Robin wrote, “the meca-quartz masterminds that rocked the watchmaking world go full-mechanical“. And indeed, not only did this automatic time-only watch make a good impression, but it also opened new horizons for the brand. Since its initial release, a salmon version has been presented, too. But […]

#TBT Going Wild With A Sicura Safari Victorinox Knife Watch Fratello
Victorinox Knife Watch Even though Jan 18, 2024

#TBT Going Wild With A Sicura Safari Victorinox Knife Watch

Even though it feels like wearing a bar of chocolate on your wrist, the Sicura Safari knife watch is a pure wonder. It had been a long time since I put it on my wish list, and I finally got one. I really thought it would be much easier to find it… I was wrong. […] Visit #TBT Going Wild With A Sicura Safari Victorinox Knife Watch to read the full article.

Zenith’s First New Release of the Year is a Pair of Blue Dialed Boutique Editions from their Pilot Collection Worn & Wound
Zenith s First New Release Jan 17, 2024

Zenith’s First New Release of the Year is a Pair of Blue Dialed Boutique Editions from their Pilot Collection

After a period of relative quiet in the watch industry over the holidays, as we head into mid-January it’s clear that we are not being fully launched into New Release Season, with news coming across our desks about watch releases from some of our favorite brands. Some we can share now, and some will have to wait, but it’s clear whatever respite we had between Thanksgiving and New Years is, well, completely over. First out of the gate among the big Swiss luxury brands is Zenith, with news about an addition to their Pilot collection, which was their big launch in 2023.  The Pilot collection took us by surprise last year. After several years of focusing on the Defy and Chronomaster lines, it felt like a left turn of sorts. But Zenith is rightfully incredibly proud of the Pilot and the heritage it represents. Zenith trademarked “Pilot” in 1904, and is famously the only watchmaker who can use the word solo on a watch dial. The watches we saw last year represented a new twist on a format we know well. They aren’t regurgitations of a historic reference, but feel like a modern realization of an aviation themed watch with contemporary proportions and materials.  The new boutique editions seen here take the Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback and add blue dials, offering an alternative to the jet black seen on last year’s collection. According to Zenith, the shade of blue seen on these dials is meant to evoke the night sky as seen by a pilot, but blue is a commo...

Bamford and Artist Jeremyville Start the New Year with a Limited Edition GMT Carrying a Positive Message Worn & Wound
Jan 8, 2024

Bamford and Artist Jeremyville Start the New Year with a Limited Edition GMT Carrying a Positive Message

If anyone thought brands might slow down when it comes to collaborative limited editions in 2024, the releases that are popping up in the first full week of the year would seem to disprove that notion. To that end, Bamford has just announced their first new release of the year, a new spin on their popular GMT format made in partnership with the artist and designer known as Jeremyville. The Bamford London x Jeremyville Limited Edition GMT is whimsical way to start the new year, featuring a well known character from the larger Jeremyville universe.  The Bamford GMT has proven to be a great platform for character watches – we saw not one, but two Snoopy GMTs released in the last few years – and this new release finds the Jeremyville “Earth” character taking center stage. If you’re not familiar with Jeremyville’s art, a brief primer is in order. Jeremyville’s art has gained popularity over the course of twenty years, and is both the moniker of the artist himself and the fictional world his characters inhabit. The themes expressed in his art are nearly universally positive, with a real focus on community and empathy, so a collaboration at the beginning of a new year, a time when everyone seems focused on positive change, makes a lot of sense.  The dial of the limited edition features the Earth character extending two arms, one of which is an hour hand (and displays a peace sign) and other is the minute hand (with fingers crossed). The GMT hand is represented by ...

Business News: New Faces at LVMH Watches, with Frédéric Arnault Taking Charge SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Jan 5, 2024

Business News: New Faces at LVMH Watches, with Frédéric Arnault Taking Charge

LVMH has just made official the long expected management reshuffle at its watch and jewellery division, with Frédéric Arnault named chief executive of LVMH Watches. Taking over from Mr Arnault as chief executive of TAG Heuer is Julien Tornare, who previously had the same role at Zenith. And replacing Mr Tornare is Benoit de Clerck, who was formerly the chief commercial officer at Panerai. Effective from the start of 2024, the management reshuffle at LVMH will likely be the first of several such moves across the industry over the next 18 months resulting from long-serving bosses retiring and a slowing market. New faces and new directions? Mr Arnault takes on a newly-created role that marks the beginning of the LVMH Watch Division – watches and jewellery were previously grouped together – which might mean more activity from the luxury giant’s trio of watch brands. He will report to Stephane Bianchi, the head of the LVMH Watches & Jewelry Division that also includes Bulgari. Mr Bianchi was reputedly recruited by LVMH owner Bernard Arnault to mentor the junior Arnault, and the pair have risen through the ranks of LVMH in tandem. Though the watch division is one of the smallest in the LVMH stable, Frédéric Arnault brings clout to the job, by virtue of both his name and experience. With a technical and quantitive background – he has a degree in applied mathematics – Mr Arnault raised the level of technical and industrial capabilities at TAG Heuer. Amongst other thi...

An Affordable, Stylish, and Proudly Quartz Collaboration from Paulin and The Armoury Worn & Wound
Jan 4, 2024

An Affordable, Stylish, and Proudly Quartz Collaboration from Paulin and The Armoury

Paulin celebrated its 10th year in 2023 and on this anniversary, they embarked on a new chapter by officially merging with fellow Scottish and celebrated watch brand, anOrdain. Since COVID played havoc on traditional brick and mortar retailers, Paulin had to rethink their business model and joining anOrdain was the perfect solution. Their future never looked so bright! Their newest model is called the Modul, and the name is quite fitting due to its modular construction. The steel body that houses the movement sits within a brushed steel outer case, which is held together by two hex screws on either side of the crown. This type of structure allows the owner to swap out the inner module, should they want to change dial color or movement type (manual wind or quartz).  Inspired by a recent trip to Scotland the good folks at The Armoury joined forces with Paulin, to create the Honk Kong Dial and a new Modul watch was born. Instead of Roman and Arabic numerals, as on California dials, they have chosen Roman and Chinese, which is appropriate considering The Armoury’s Eastern and Western locations. The visual weight of the Chinese numerals at 4, 5, 7 and 8 o’clock match their Roman counterparts above perfectly.  This vintage infused design comes in four colorways: black dial (more like gray) with gold numerals and minute track, light blue dial with silver numerals and track, purple dial with lavender numerals and track, and lastly yellow dial with black numerals and white tr...

47 Best Watches Under $5,000 - A Complete Guide for 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 2, 2024

47 Best Watches Under $5,000 - A Complete Guide for 2025

We are back with another list of recommendations for the best watches you can get for a given amount of money. This time around, we will be looking at the best watches available for under $5,000, a crowded price point where the luxury watchmaking conversation really takes off. As we creep up on $5,000, we’ll be taking a look at luxury watch brands like Oris, Omega, Tudor, and a host of others, some of which may surprise you by their inclusion in this category. $5,000 is, objectively a lot of money, and we know you're looking for a lot of watch for your hard-earned coin. To aid you in your research, we have tried to include some popular, enthusiast-favorite watches as well as a few watches from brands you may be less familiar with. Before diving in, here are some ground rules: This list will be, by and large, strictly composed of watches with a retail price at or below $5,000. We'll also throw a few watches in at the end which retail for just a bit above $5,000 but can be found on the secondary market in our target price range. We’ve decided to further narrow our scope to watches with a starting price between $2,000 and $5,000. Again, we can’t possibly put every single watch in this price bracket on this list, but please feel free to refer to other guides on our sites, such as The Best Watches Under $1000, 30 Best Minimalist Watches and 25 Best Tool Watches, as they may have a watch or watches more to your taste, which is really what these lists are all about: to ...

The Best Watches Under $2,000 for 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 2, 2024

The Best Watches Under $2,000 for 2026

One of the most popular topics of discussion for watch enthusiasts in online forums and social media is how to get the most bang for your buck at a given price point. Today, we’ll be focusing on exactly that, taking a look at some of the most impressive value propositions at or around $2,000. And while price points like $500 and $1,000 each have their standouts in terms of what you’re getting for your money, it is right around two grand that we start to experience some of the more luxurious elements of watchmaking when it comes to case and bracelet finishing, movements, and specifications. We’ll be taking a look at brands like Longines, Oris, Tudor, Sinn, Nomos, and many others that are producing excellent watches packing a lot of enthusiast appeal within the confines of this price range. Before we get into the watches, here are some ground rules: In order to keep the list organized, we’ll arrange it by category, focusing on some of the most popular broad segments of the watch industry including everyday, Flieger, dress, dive, GMT, and chronograph watches. We also won’t be terribly strict about coming in under $2,000, but rather concentrate on watches that are priced around $2,000 as factors like currency exchange rates, local taxes, and whether or not you’re buying pre-owned have a profound effect on final pricing. We’ll make an effort not to include more than four watches from any single brand and will also limit the inclusion of micro-brands, not that ...

Seiko Releases a Pair of Colorful Seiko 5 Sports GMT LEs for the Asian Market Worn & Wound
Seiko Releases Jan 2, 2024

Seiko Releases a Pair of Colorful Seiko 5 Sports GMT LEs for the Asian Market

In the spring of 2022, nearly overshadowed by the launch of a certain celestially inspired plastic quartz chronograph, Seiko introduced the Seiko 5 Sports GMT. A watch that brought mechanical GMT movements to the masses. Previously, the least expensive mechanical GMT watches were well north of four figures. Since then, there has been a flutter of affordable GMTs, but very few can match Seiko’s incredible value proposition. In the months following the initial release, there have been a few added color variants and just in time to end 2023 with a bang, Seiko is introducing two new pieces. The Thong Sia Limited Editions exclusive to Malaysia, Brunei, Hong Kong, Macau, and Singapore. They will be restricted to 1000 pieces in each colorway. The Ice Blue SSK029 features a light blue/white dial, with blue hour, minute and second hands, and a red GMT hand. The bezel is a combination of black and blue. The Passion Red SSK031 is, as you can imagine, quite the opposite of the latter model. Featuring a deep red dial, with steel hour, minute and second hands, and a gold GMT hand. This one has a red and black bezel.  These watches will be available from January 2024 and are limited to the Asian markets referenced above. Like all regional releases, they’ll undoubtedly pop up in the usual second hand and international retail outlets where watches like this can often be found shortly after becoming available, so be on the lookout if you’re interested in collecting some of the more h...

Nomos evoke a warm autumn with the new Club Sport Neomatik 39 Tabac, Ember and Smoke Time+Tide
Nomos evoke Dec 27, 2023

Nomos evoke a warm autumn with the new Club Sport Neomatik 39 Tabac, Ember and Smoke

When thinking of Nomos, the first thing that comes to mind is clean, studied designs that follow the Bauhaus method. At times, these break free of their block colour schemes and get a lick of, say, vibrant pink, but rarely would I describe Nomos’ design choices as sultry. The three new Club Sport Neomatik 39 … ContinuedThe post Nomos evoke a warm autumn with the new Club Sport Neomatik 39 Tabac, Ember and Smoke appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Dec 24, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 70 – Seiko 5’s new GMT and More!

It’s here, the last episode of the year. A Week in Watches episode 70 – wow. Though the year is coming to a close, there still is some news – big news actually – to discuss, so it’s a pretty full episode. We kick it off with some upgrades from Grand Seiko to one of their core designs. From there, we head to the UK to check out a couple of late-in-the-year releases from Farer. Then, it’s over to Switzerland to discuss Breitling’s acquisition of Universal Genève. Finally, we’re back to Japan for some new, and very cool, GMTs from Seiko 5. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. Head over to Windupwatchshop.com and be sure to check out the recently launched Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Chronomaster Valjoux 72 and Datomaster VK63 Version 2s, as well straps, EDC, clocks, and more watches. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 70 – Seiko 5’s new GMT and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Special Windup Watch Shop Sales This Week Worn & Wound
Tissot  and score a free Italian Dec 18, 2023

Special Windup Watch Shop Sales This Week

As holiday shopping continues to ramp up and reach its fever pitch, we want to make it as easy as possible for you to find deals and discover even more value here at the Windup Watch Shop. To that end, we will be running additional promotions this week, December 18-22, on virtually every product category in the Shop. Furthermore, there are special sales running all three days: Purchase any Tissot and score a free Italian strap; Pick up a Paulin watch and receive a free Model 2 Premium strap; We’ll throw in a pair of Randolph glasses with any purchase of the new Benrus Ultra Deep. And lastly, Free Priority Domestic Shipping. We are excited to offer these, and all the specials highlighted below, as gifts to our Windup Watch Shop community.   As holiday shopping continues to ramp up and reach its fever pitch, we want to make it as easy as possible for you to find deals and discover even more value here at the Windup Watch Shop. To that end, we will be running additional promotions this week, December 18-22, on virtually every product category in the Shop. Furthermore, there are special sales running all three days: Purchase any Tissot and score a free Italian strap; Pick up a Paulin watch and receive a free Model 2 Premium strap; We’ll throw in a pair of Randolph glasses with any purchase of the new Benrus Ultra Deep. And lastly, Free Priority Domestic Shipping. We are excited to offer these, and all the specials highlighted below, as gifts to our W...

Interview – IWC Creative Director Christian Knoop on the New Amsterdam Boutique, the Performance Chronograph & More Monochrome
IWC Creative Director Christian Knoop Dec 15, 2023

Interview – IWC Creative Director Christian Knoop on the New Amsterdam Boutique, the Performance Chronograph & More

We were recently invited to join the festive reopening of the Amsterdam Boutique of IWC Schaffhausen. Nestled in one of the most luxurious high streets in our nation’s capital is a haven where you can fully immerse yourself in the wonderful world of IWC. Step inside, and you can discover the brand’s various collections in […]

The Sophomore Effort from Indie Havid Nagan Modernizes a Classic Complication Worn & Wound
Havid Nagan Dec 14, 2023

The Sophomore Effort from Indie Havid Nagan Modernizes a Classic Complication

In the sea of vintage-inspired, sport-watch focused microbrands – with which there is nothing wrong, of course – are a select few brands who seem to have stumbled upon an aesthetic that is uniquely theirs. One such example is Havid Nagan whose 2021 debut model was aptly named HN00. We were impressed with it and covered it here, and today Havid Nagan is back with the follow-up to its opening shot: Introducing the HN01 Lucine, Havid Nagan’s interpretation of, and ode to, the moonphase. So what changed and what hasn’t? The closest thing the two watches share are their cases: The HN01 titanium cushion-esque case keeps the same 40.2mm diameter as its predecessor but has slimmed down from 11.6mm thick to only 10.2mm. Its profile has also been massaged slightly to better accentuate its profile. This is even more impressive when you consider the effort required to fit an entirely new complication module inside. The HN01 Lucine’s powertrain is a Chronode base movement that has been heavily modified to include a moonphase module (which itself has been improved to err only one day from every 2.5 years to every 11.6 years). The module itself, which displays the moon at 12 o’clock, contains two photorealistic moons that float on a “mystery” style transparent sapphire wheel. Havid Nagan has also taken it upon themselves to decorate the movement with hand-applied anglage and additional perlage clouds on the mainplate (both sides) and skeletonized bridges. There is also a...

Shopping the Windup 2023 Holiday Gift Guide Worn & Wound
Dec 10, 2023

Shopping the Windup 2023 Holiday Gift Guide

It’s over a week into December, and no doubt your holiday shopping is in full swing unless you’re a last minute shopper (we’ll have a blog post for you soon enough too, so stay tuned). For the proactive among us, or even the lost soul who has somehow found your way here trying to shop for the watch fanatic in your life, welcome. The kind folks at the Windup Watch Shop have you covered with our 2023 Holiday Gift Guide. Consider this a guide for a guide, if you will. It’s over a week into December, and no doubt your holiday shopping is in full swing unless you’re a last minute shopper (we’ll have a blog post for you soon enough too, so stay tuned). For the proactive among us, or even the lost soul who has somehow found your way here trying to shop for the watch fanatic in your life, welcome. The kind folks at the Windup Watch Shop have you covered with our 2023 Holiday Gift Guide. Consider this a guide for a guide, if you will. The post Shopping the Windup 2023 Holiday Gift Guide appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Talking Freak, food, and more with Ulysse Nardin Chief Growth Officer Matthieu Haverlan Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Dec 10, 2023

Talking Freak, food, and more with Ulysse Nardin Chief Growth Officer Matthieu Haverlan

Ulysse Nardin is a brand that has a ton of momentum at present. After a bit of a rocky era under Kering, and with a buyout looming, Ulysse Nardin CEO Patrick Parnaux and senior management would go on to acquire Sowind Group SA in 2022 – leading both Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux to regain full … ContinuedThe post Talking Freak, food, and more with Ulysse Nardin Chief Growth Officer Matthieu Haverlan appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – George Nelson Worn & Wound
Seiko SKX013 – $300-$500 During Dec 8, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – George Nelson

Editor’s Note: In this week’s installment of our ongoing “3 for 5k” series, reader George Nelson takes us through his personal collection, and his growth as a collector. He frames this as a typical “diver, daily driver, dress watch” arrangement, but each watch is much more personal than simply checking off a collecting box. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. I feel very fortunate to say that I own the three-watch collection I’ve always wanted. It took some time (pun intended) and a lot of watches that would come in and come out. Things could change in the future within the big picture of my rotation but these three will always remain. They each represent certain points in my life and also give an idea of what kind of enthusiast I am. It sticks to the first idea I ever encountered of a three-watch collection: the diver, the daily driver, and a dress watch.  Seiko SKX013 – ($300-$500) During my early days of diving deep into the rabbit hole of watches, I came across a video about the Seiko SKX013 back in December of 2017. Up to this point, I had been wearing a $30 Timex Expedition I purchased back in 2009 from a local KMart (RIP KMart and that watch.) I was coming close to graduating college and wanted something a little nicer with a sweeping second hand. It was then when I came across this video and immediately was convinced that this watch was for me. I was familiar with the Sei...

REVIEW: Hands On With The Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT Travel Time WatchAdvice
Audemars Piguet making Dec 7, 2023

REVIEW: Hands On With The Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT Travel Time

We’ve gone hands on with the new Riviera GMT launched at the start of the year, and we must say that it’s been a bit of a surprise package! What We Love Wave motif silver dialQuick change strap systemComfortable bracelet What We Don’t No secondary strap to utilise the quick change systemNo GMT bezel, limiting true GMT functionalityLack of a screw-down crown Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 8/10Design: 7.5/10Build quality: 8.5/10 Baume & Mercier has had its ups and downs over the years, and more recently, I feel they’ve been relegated to the bottom of the Richemont stable of brands. However, this year, with the 50th Anniversary of the Riviera, Baume & Mercier have breathed some new life into their steel sports diver and designed it for a new wave of watch lovers. For those not very familiar with Baume & Mercier, first a very quick history lesson… The new Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT Travel Time Launched in 1973, the Riviera immediately made a splash with its dodecagonal case and its slimline metal strap. At this time, very few brands had really ventured into the luxury integrated steel bracelet models, with maybe the exception of Rolex and Audemars Piguet, making the Baume & Mercier Riviera one of the first brands to do this. Interestingly, the original design was done by Jean-Claude Gueit, the father of Emmanuel Gueit who designed the Royal Oak Offshore, so the Riviera has some design provenance and links back to that era as well. The Riviera...

The Universal Genève Polerouter Gets the Reference Treatment in a Gorgeous New Book Covering the Enormous Breadth of the Collection Worn & Wound
Universal Genève Dec 6, 2023

The Universal Genève Polerouter Gets the Reference Treatment in a Gorgeous New Book Covering the Enormous Breadth of the Collection

Over the last several years, something has happened to the humble Universal Geneve Polerouter. This watch, once a go-to recommendation for collector’s looking to get their feet wet in the world of vintage, has risen in stature, value, and overall name recognition as the watch market has expanded. As with any niche hobby that, over time, approaches the mainstream, hidden gems become less hidden. The Polerouter, while not a household name like the Speedmaster or Submariner, is not nearly as under the radar as it used to be.  While those of us who have been around this stuff for years might mourn the availability of great examples of the Polerouter on the cheap, it’s hard not to be happy that people are discovering and appreciating the watch. As a gateway to the hobby, and vintage specifically, it’s a collection that could lead a curious collector down any number of paths, each one rewarding in a different way. That’s because there are so many ways to approach the Polerouter: as a creation from the mind of the biggest name in the history of watch design, as an elegant sports watch that helped set a template for some of the most popular watches of the current era, and as an uncommon mechanical triumph. And, of course, it’s still a relatively accessible piece of a key part of watch history, and a great representation of Universal Geneve, a brand that exists today as a time capsule.  Perhaps one of the clearest signals that the Polerouter has crossed a threshold of s...