1,056 articles · 131 videos found · page 38 of 40
Time+Tide
Tudor. Three watches. Two grown men. One Time+Tide London Discovery Studio and its Tudor Library & Lounge. Zero mercy.The post The ultimate Tudor watch collection debate ft. Adrian Barker becomes a 3-WATCH THROW DOWN appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Since its revival in 2008, the Moritz Grossmann manufacture has focused on making watches with traditional Saxon construction and meticulous hand-finishing, exemplifying the idea of Schönstes deutsches Handwerk. The Tremblage, introduced in 2021, quickly became one of its most expressive pieces, showcasing a rare hand-engraving technique applied to German silver dials. Now, for the 200th […]
Monochrome
Long associated with pilot’s chronographs and robust instrument watches, Tutima has, over the past decade, built a compelling “classical” collection. The Patria line, introduced in the early 2010s and coinciding with the brand’s return to Glashütte, offered refined cases, restrained dials and, most notably, beautifully executed hand-wound movements rooted in Saxon tradition. Following earlier executions […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Glashütte Original is a luxury watchmaker founded in 1994, in the wake of the Cold War and at the dawn of German reunification. However, it traces its roots back much further, to the mid-19th Century during the inception of German watchmaking in the eastern German state of Saxony. Here is the story of how Glashütte Original, and the horological pioneers who laid its foundation, persevered through war, social and political upheaval, and economic turmoil to become one of today's most innovative and admired watch brands, along with an introduction to each of its five 21st-Century product families. Saxon Watchmaking’s Founding Fathers The little town of Glashütte, in the Ore Mountains of the German state of Saxony, had fallen on hard times when a watchmaker from nearby Dresden named Ferdinand Adolph Lange set up a watchmaking shop there in 1845. The silver-mining industry that had sustained the region’s inhabitants, and that had given the town its name (“Glass Hut” or “Shiny Hut”), was on the decline after years of war and industrial competition from the New World. The inhabitants of the town were facing poverty and eager for new opportunities to make a living, and Lange, along with others who shared his passion for horology and entrepreneurship, were the visionaries to provide them. In cooperation with the Royal Saxon government, who had funded the venture, Adolph Lange established A. Lange & Cie. (later A. Lange & Söhne), a manufacturing hub for watchmakin...
Monochrome
Celebrating the 180th anniversary of its founder, Union Glashütte launches a pair of new 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Anniversary Editions, offered as the Large Second 41mm and Small Second 34mm references, capturing the brand’s enduring approach: fine Saxon craftsmanship and design excellence made accessible. The 1893 collection takes its name from the year Dürrstein established the […]
Monochrome
Independent German watchmaker Stefan Kudoke has spent the last decade quietly building a very characterful portfolio. His HANDwerk line, led by the Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2, established a signature design language rooted in traditional Saxon craft, with a pretty poetic twist. The Kudoke 3, launched as a graphic, playful evolution, was presented in salmon […]
Time+Tide
JLC's impressive vintage exhibition is heading stateside, and our friends in the watch media cover our Tudor x Time+Tide Library & Lounge.The post Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘The Adventure Spirit’ Travelling Collection is now in Las Vegas! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Many superlatives have been ascribed to what might be the most valuable watch this fall auction season – the Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in stainless steel. Headlining Phillips’ upcoming auction in Geneva, the steel ref. 1518 is paradoxically extraordinary and ordinary all at once. As the first serially-produced perpetual calendar-chronograph wristwatch, the ref. 1518 is already a landmark Patek Philippe wristwatch, one that spawned a lineage that includes the refs. 2499, 3970, and 5970. And then there’s the ref. 1518 in steel – only four are known. The steel ref. 1518 has rarity, historical importance, and an eight-figure value; but on the wrist, this “holy grail” is compact, lightweight, and monochromatic, discreetly low-key. At a diminutive 35 mm in diameter, the ref. 1518 is small by today’s standards. The watch doesn’t look like much on the wrist from across a room; in fact, it isn’t immediately obvious to a layperson (or even a casual watch enthusiast) that the watch is worth more than most houses and vintage Ferraris. Yet the ref. 1518 in steel is appealing for many intellectual reasons: extreme rarity, historical lineage of the perpetual calendar chronograph, even sheer value. This is a trophy in many senses. Historically, the ref. 1518 was important even in its time. It was once Patek Philippe’s most complicated regular production wristwatch, and the steel ref. 1518 was likely the most expensive steel Patek Philippe when it was in the catalogue. ...
Teddy Baldassarre
An outsized part of Seiko’s history is within its dive watch heritage, going all the way back to 1965 with the company's first dedicated diver, the 150-meter 62MAS, released as the 6217-8000, and later, its larger-crowned sibling, the 6217-8001. It was the beginning of a lineage that went on to include legendary references like the Willard, the Turtle, the Marinemaster, the Tuna, and the SKX, just to name a small assortment of them. Today, Seiko’s broad dive-watch lineup is well-known for its rugged dependability: from the entry-level Prospex models to the elevated Luxe variants like the Seiko SPB149, there’s a Seiko diver for every enthusiast. Seiko has paid tribute to the 62MAS design in the past with limited editions, but in the 2020s, the brand has seen a slew of regular-production, and short-lived models – like the SPB143, 239, and 149, which stand as the most faithful renderings of the 62MAS, characterized by the brand as the Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s Watch. Although this model family came with different dial variants at its 40.5mm case size, today, we’re going to showcase the discontinued SPB149 before looking at the current production SPB143 and other modern day options which continue the 62MAS legacy. We will go through the standard points of its case, wear, dial, and movement, and then share concluding remarks about its overall legacy in 2025. Seiko SPB149 Context In Spring of 2020, Seiko dropped a quartet of watches - the SPB143, SPB145, SPB1...
Monochrome
Founded in 1893 and rooted in the Saxon cradle of German watchmaking, Union Glashütte has never shied away from character. The brand´s Belisar series is famous for its automotive-inspired editions, and needless to say, the design cues of the Speedster editions have always been taken from a German car. This year, for the first time, […]
SJX Watches
One of the earliest wristwatches created by the modern-day Breguet company was the 3130, way back in 1983. Now for its 250th anniversary, Breguet has continued the lineage with the Classique 7235. Inspired by the historic No. 5 pocket watch, just like the earlier 3130, the 7235 reimagines a Breguet classic with the brand’s new design language that debuted with the first anniversary wristwatch earlier this year. Limited to 250 pieces, the 7235 is powered by a derivative of the same movement found in the 3130, but with one bestowed with several generations worth of technical and decorative upgrades. The calibre is also hand engraved with a 19th century streetscape of Paris that includes Abraham-Louis Breguet’s work on Quai de l’Horloge. The cal. 502.3.DRL in the 7235 Initial thoughts The 7235 is instantly familiar. A staple of Breguet’s catalogue over the years, the asymmetric dial with a power reserve, moon phase, and small seconds is quintessential Breguet in style. But the 7235 is not quite Breguet as it is now known, as while it retains the movement and dial design, it employs the new aesthetic of Breguet’s 250th anniversary line-up. While most will be accustomed to the “Breguet style” of coin-edged case with straight soldered lugs and silvered guilloche dial, the 7235 moves away from that to good effect – yet the 7235 is immediately recognisable as a Breguet. The new design marries the new with the old: the patterned case band is retained, but instead of...
Deployant
Glashütte Original and MEISSEN unite two pillars of Saxon craftsmanship in the Senator MEISSEN collection-a trio of limited-edition timepieces that blend horological precision with porcelain artistry. Each model features a hand-painted MEISSEN porcelain dial housed in a 40mm red gold case, powered by the automatic calibre 36-16. The Mystic Maison editions in white and celadon green are limited to 150 pieces each and priced at $30,300, while the Collage edition, limited to just 8 pieces, retails at $36,400.
Hodinkee
Two towns in Saxony come together in celebration of German craftsmanship.
Hodinkee
With a lineage dating back nearly nine decades, 2023's release has quickly become one of the brand's most in-demand references. Here's why.
Monochrome
Over the past two decades, the PanoMaticLunar has established itself as one of Glashütte Original’s most recognisable models. Its off-centred time display, Panorama Date, and moon-phase complication have become defining features of the collection, embodying the Saxon approach to precision, order, and poetry. Along the way, the PanoMaticLunar has experimented with colour, moving from the […]
Monochrome
Union Glashütte, one of the two Swatch Group brands located in the Saxon town of German watchmaking fame, next to higher-end manufacture Glashütte Original, manages to compete with its heavyweight neighbours thanks to its solidly built watches – often with vintage motorsport accents – but always recognised for their good value. With its close ties […]
Monochrome
The Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase has long been one of Union Glashütte’s signature watches, combining Saxon craftsmanship with the appeal of a complete calendar and lunar display. In 2023, the Belisar Chronograph line received a welcome refresh with sleeker proportions, more angular bezels, and a renewed emphasis on legibility. This year, the usually classic Belisar […]
Deployant
Panerai’s Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 and PAM01698 are tactical evolutions of the brand’s dive watch lineage, paying tribute to the Italian Navy’s aviation division (Aviazione Navale). Both models feature green-grained dials, radar-style subdials, and engraved casebacks, but diverge in material execution-one in brushed steel, the other in Panerai’s proprietary Carbotech™.
SJX Watches
Jaquet Droz is enjoying a good run with unique, dragon-themed watches. While last month’s debut was firmly in the mould of Anglo-Saxon fantasy lore, the Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold “Dragon Mask” is inspired by the Chinese dragon. A unique piece created at the behest of a client, like most of brand’s current repertoire, the Dragon Mask has an open-worked dial engraved and painted by hand – and set with emeralds – installed on a skeletonised, self-winding tourbillon movement. Initial thoughts Personalised commissions are, by definition, personal and not for everyone. This watch is over the top in its decoration, maybe even overdone to the point of kitsch, but I like it. Dragon-themed watches don’t always get the motif right – Breguet’s dragon was a little too fat – but this one is done well in its own way. The case is a little large for what it is, but the size is useful as it results in a larger canvas for the dial decoration. And because this is a Jaquet Droz, the execution, both in terms of dial and movement, will be good quality, as is usually the case with the high-end brands owned by Swatch Group. I imagine the client who commissioned this will be pleased – except maybe for the CHF450,000 price tag, which is steep but typical for a watch like this. A dragon in all its colours Despite its strikingly different look, the Dragon Mask is actually a variation of the clean and modern Tourbillon Skelet. Both share the same movement and case, but the Drago...
SJX Watches
In the world of independent watchmaking, Phimphrachanh – pronounced “fin-fra-chan” – is a name worth learning. Born in France, Dann Phimphrachanh is a Portuguese citizen with Laotian heritage who produces watches in Switzerland. That multicultural heritage that informs his approach to horology, personified by the Seconde Vive, his first wristwatch. The Phimphrachanh surname, inherited from his Laotian grandfather, a political figure in Laos, speaks to this lineage, but Dann’s professional and personal identity is firmly rooted in Portugal. After training in Lisbon’s watchmaking school and working at traditional Swiss watch brands, Dann set out to build his first watch on his own terms: by hand, with minimal industrial tools, and a commitment to preserving classical methods in a modern context. In a world where “independent watchmaking” can sometimes feel like just another label, Dann reminds us what it really means. The Seconde Vive, the result of years of solitary work, is both a technical achievement and a reflection of a deeper pursuit, a journey shaped by tradition, silence, and the slow mastery of time itself. The Seconde Vive Origins When Dann first left for Switzerland, he carried with him an image shaped by the glossy pages of watchmaking magazines, a world where the watchmaker was portrayed as a solitary figure, pursuing perfection in a quiet, idyllic workshop. “It was that image I went looking for,” he recalls. Reality, of course, was more co...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Seiko Prospex SRPE93, the most recent version of the legendary Seiko Turtle dive watch, hit the market relatively recently, in 2021, but its lineage can be traced all the way back to the 1970s. What makes this defiantly retro-looking tool watch such a favorite of enthusiasts even today? There’s a lot more to it than the very accessible price point, as we’ll explore here in this in-depth examination - or, a look under the shell, if you will - of the SRPE93 “Turtle.” Seiko, the world’s oldest and most established Japanese watchmaking brand, was one of the pioneers of the dive-watch genre and it has long stood apart from its Swiss contemporaries in this field (i.e. Rolex, Blancpain, and others) for its use of bold and unconventional designs. One of its most off-the-wall and yet most enduringly popular designs is the original "Turtle” - aka, Ref. 6306 and 6309 - which made its debut in 1976. The former reference was made exclusively for the Japanese market (and thus, vintage examples are much rarer and more valuable), and the latter was sold to international customers. The reptilian nickname derived from the watches’ cushion-shaped cases with softly rounded lugs, which brought to mind the silhouette of a turtle when viewed from above. The reference numbers for the watches essentially matched those of their automatic movements - Caliber 6306A, which included hacking seconds and Caliber 6309A, which did not. The Turtle’s unusual look and rugged ...
SJX Watches
Credor returns to its first-ever tourbillon with the Goldfeather Tourbillon GBCF999, a watch that emphasises traditional Japanese craftsmanship with maki-e lacquerwork and hand engraving. Tracing its lineage back to the inaugural Seiko tourbillon that was launched in 2016, the Goldfeather Tourbillon is equipped with an improved tourbillon movement featuring a clever twist. Despite its elaborate decoration, the Goldfeather possesses a far more subdued look than its 2016 predecessor, the Credor Fugaku Tourbillon, which was not only decorated in maki-e and engraving but also set with blue sapphires. Initial thoughts Credor timepieces are almost always appealing propositions, since they usually sit somewhere between more affordable Seiko watches and high-end Grand Seiko models. While Credor is often synonymous with simple but highly decorated watches – like the famous Eichi II – its catalogue boasts truly noteworthy examples of complications. The new Goldfeather Tourbillon is one of these noteworthy watches. It’s a relatively restrained watch but executed with an impressive level of quality, especially in its decoration that is uniquely Japanese. And the slim movement is uniquely Credor in style and finish. In terms of hand finishing inside and out, the makers of the Goldfeather Tourbillon cut no corners. The Goldfeather’s form is inspired by a model from the 1960s; the clean case design is clearly suggestive of those times. The overall look manages to blend classical...
Monochrome
Whether you’re the type to pull up a deck chair and lounge by the pool, or aim to be more adventurous and go for deep-sea cave diving, you need something fitting on the wrist for summer. With an abundance of new dive watches introduced throughout the year, it can be cumbersome to narrow down your […]
Hodinkee
With a new dial manufacture located just steps away from its headquarters, Glashütte Original continues the evolution of German Watchmaking in the heart of Saxony.
Deployant
Glashütte Original celebrates 180 years of Saxon watchmaking and their new dial manufacture in the city with a new PanoLunaTourbillon.
Hodinkee
The Concours Club isn't just a race track, a garage, or a comfy lounge. It's like a country club for the world's biggest car lovers – and they love watches too.
Monochrome
Glashütte Original’s Senator collection is populated with classical watches that evoke the grand Saxon watchmaking traditions of the 19th century. A slight evolution of the somewhat august Senator range, a sub-collection known as the Senator Excellence, was released in tandem with the brand’s calibre 36 in 2016. The Panorama Date Moon Phase appeared in 2018, […]
Fratello
Another Sunday, another showdown! This week, we’ll dive headfirst into the world of luxury dive watches, and two examples with legendary lineage will go head to head. The first is the latest iteration of the Rolex Sea-Dweller, a watch that finds its roots in the late 1960s as the professional brother of the Submariner. The […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV Vs. Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 126600 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Glashütte Original’s history has many interesting twists and turns, as it was built upon the remains of the VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe conglomerate, or GUB, following the reunification of Germany. As such the company became the legal successor to the once thriving majority of watchmaking enterprises that once called Saxony their home. As you can imagine, […]
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we look at the brilliant and rich history of Omega Seamaster dive watches. The lineage started in 1957 with the introduction of the first Seamaster 300, which was part of Omega’s famous trilogy along with the first Speedmaster and Railmaster models. After that, the brand released many iconic dive […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Omega Seamaster Dive Watches to read the full article.
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