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Results for Manufacture vs Etablisseur

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Manufacture vs Etablisseur

The structural difference between brands that make their own movements (manufactures) and those that buy them (etablisseurs).

Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2013 Collections. Revolution
Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2013 Collections Unveiling Jun 7, 2013

Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2013 Collections.

Unveiling the Ulysse Nardin latest novelties and key developments showcased at the Baselworld 2013watch fair. This year proves to be an exciting one for the independent watch brand as it presented 5 new in-house movements in the following timepieces: Skeleton Tourbillon, Stranger – Musical Watch, Marine Chronograph Manufacture, Jade and Freak. Combining watchmaking savoir-faire with breakthrough innovations, the marque […]

Making A Masterpiece: Jaeger LeCoultre Officially Launches The Gyrotourbillon 3 In Le Sentier Revolution
Jaeger-LeCoultre Mar 29, 2013

Making A Masterpiece: Jaeger LeCoultre Officially Launches The Gyrotourbillon 3 In Le Sentier

Jaeger LeCoultre first introduced the Gyrotourbillon 3 at the 2013 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) last January, but the official introduction of the watch to journalists from the United States took place just last week, at the manufacture’s home in Le Sentier.  The home of Jaeger LeCoultre has grown enormously since 1833 (the year from […]

Not Just Theoretical: Hublot Big Bang Ferrari “Red Magic Carbon”, King Gold Carbon and Ceramic Revolution
Hublot Big Bang Ferrari “Red Jan 23, 2013

Not Just Theoretical: Hublot Big Bang Ferrari “Red Magic Carbon”, King Gold Carbon and Ceramic

The culmination of a successful year with Ferrari, the Hublot Big Bang Ferrari “Red Magic Carbon” is representative of the brand’s evolution towards integrated watchmaking. The UNICO movement was designed and produced by watchmakers at the Hublot manufacture and while chronographs are not exactly a unique complication, Hublot’s flyback chronograph can be reset at any […]

Exclusive pictures of a Stainless Steel cased Lange Tourbillon Pour le Merite Deployant
Apr 24, 2012

Exclusive pictures of a Stainless Steel cased Lange Tourbillon Pour le Merite

Exclusive pictures of the Stainless Steel Lange Tourbillon “Pour le Merite” In the early days of the manufacture, the leadership of the company, principally Mr Gunter Blumlein made some difficult decisions to make special edition watches for special customers…he subsequently stopped this practice, as it creates considerable headaches for the company to dedicate resources toRead More

Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” Hodinkee
Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon Apr 30, 2026

Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26”

What We Know Ahead of this weekend's Miami Grand Prix, Tudor has announced the Black Bay Chrono "Carbon 26," a follow-up to last year's Carbon 25. While Tudor's ties to motorsport date back to the late 1960s with the Tudor Watches Racing Team, its current partnership with the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls team began in 2024, and they have been quick to make the most of it, with two limited editions in two consecutive seasons. The Carbon 25 marked the first limited-edition release from that relationship, with the Carbon 26 continuing the same approach in 2026. At its core, the update centers on a revised color scheme reflecting the livery of the VCARB 03 car. The watch retains a 42mm carbon fiber case with a fixed tachymeter bezel, along with a titanium caseback, crown, and pushers with a black PVD finish. The dial remains "racing white," now with yellow accents and carbon fiber subdials. The carbon fiber case, introduced last year, carries over unchanged. It replaces the steel case used in standard Black Bay Chronographs, while keeping the same 42mm diameter, fixed tachymeter bezel, screw-down crown, chronograph pushers, and overall case profile. Inside is the Manufacture Chronograph Calibre MT5813, an automatic chronograph with a column wheel, vertical clutch, silicon balance spring, and a 70-hour power reserve. It is COSC-certified, and it also meets Tudor's more rigorous standards of -2/+4 seconds per day. The Black Bay Chrono "Carbon 26" is priced at $8,625, produced in a...

Craft at Scale: Audemars Piguet’s Industrial Strategy SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s Industrial Strategy Audemars Mar 6, 2026

Craft at Scale: Audemars Piguet’s Industrial Strategy

Audemars Piguet (AP) is a storied name in haute horlogerie, and has long been the public face of the Vallée de Joux, the cradle of high complications in Switzerland. It’s also the only brand in the so-called ‘holy trinity’ to employ a Chief Industrial Officer (CIO). We sat down with Lucas Raggi to understand his role in shaping AP’s industrial strategy. The historical home of Audemars Piguet. Image – Audemars Piguet The context Having closed the chapter on the brand’s first 150 years, AP is flying high. According to Vontobel estimates, the brand generated more than CHF2.4 billion in 2025, making it the third-largest brand by revenue after mass market masters Rolex and Cartier. The brand is estimated to have produced more than 50,000 watches in 2025, up from 30,000 just a few years ago. The ribbon-cutting ceremony at the opening of AP’s new Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus. Image – Audemars Piguet The new Arc Manufacture, which just came online, might raise the ceiling further. In a 2022 interview then-chief executive François-Henry Bennahmias suggested AP would be capable of making up to 65,000 watches annually by 2027. These numbers represent extraordinary growth for a century-old family owned brand that makes complicated watches. So how does a brand like AP (nearly) double its output in less than a generation without sacrificing small-scale craftsmanship? In short, thoughtful industrialisation. The recently opened Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus. Image – A...

Top 10 Watch Brands In India Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 22, 2025

Top 10 Watch Brands In India

Before I get into the top 10 watch brands in India, it’s worth talking about the Indian watch market overall. This is because even in the face of some regional slowdown, India has become one of the fastest growing markets for Swiss watch exports with an astounding 25% increase in 2025, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. Brands like Rado, Longines, and Montblanc are as popular as ever in India, but what about the state of watchmaking in India? Well, it’s a bit of a mixed bag, and there are a few things we need to understand before getting into the my selections for the top 10 watch brands in India. First, India is not yet at the level of having a watchmaking infrastructure like that of China. The basic history of Indian watchmaking begins with the nationalized HMT in the 1960s and '70s, but the quartz revolution had a big, negative impact on mechanical watchmaking in the country. I’d say 2015 marked a change in the landscape of Indian watches, when microbrands for enthusiasts began to pick up in popularity. Again, while the infrastructure to manufacture movement components and parts in India is still not there, the passion for history and design has propelled some brands as hometown enthusiast darlings. I spent quite a bit of time researching this topic, and I do want to shout out YouTubers  WatchgyanHindi  and Watch and More India who are making some compelling Hindi content for the South Asian watch enthusiast community. In this list of the ...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Fortis May 29, 2025

All the Panels of the Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025 and More!

The 2025 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco was one for the books. Thousands of attendees poured into the city’s vibrant Marina District for three days of hands-on horology, exclusive releases, and face time with the creators behind the brands we love. The energy was electric, and the programming only elevated what was already an unforgettable experience. Thanks to our sponsors, this year’s event reached new heights, with panels that brought depth, insight, and real-time connection to the forefront. Here are recordings of the full conversations that helped shape the weekend, plus some videos from our friends at Fortis and Bulova. Introducing the New Fortis Fliegers with the WERK 7 Manufacture Calibre The Fortis Flieger collection connects over 40 years of aviation heritage with the modern era. Redefined in collaboration with the Swiss Air Force, it stands as the most readable tool watch Fortis has ever crafted. This video goes into its new WERK 7 manufacture calibre with 70 hours of power reserve, as explained by Andreas Bentele, Marketing Manager at Fortis. Panel 1 – Making Watches for the Enthusiast vs. the Curious Worn & Wound’s Managing Editor Zach Kazan kicked off the programming with a lively conversation featuring Abingdon Mullin, CEO at Abingdon, Jonathan Ferrer, Designer & Founder at Brew, and Brandon Little, Founder & Designer at Artefkt. The panel explored how brands can speak to both hardcore collectors and casual newcomers-without diluting their voic...

Breaking News: F.P. Journe Buys Breguet Sympathique No. 1 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Buys Breguet Sympathique No May 10, 2025

Breaking News: F.P. Journe Buys Breguet Sympathique No. 1

In a surprising turn of events, the Breguet Sympathique no. 1 has been acquired by its primary creator, Francois-Paul Journe, for the princely sum of CHF5.51 million including fees (equivalent to US$6.61 million). Notably, Sympathique no. 1 sold for almost as much as the Sympathique made for the Duc d’Orléans. Completed in 1991 for the Art of Breguet thematic auction, the clock was completed in 1991 by Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA), a complications workshop founded by Mr Journe, who also recruited Denis Flageollet and clockmaker Dominic Mouret. And now it will soon become one of the key exhibits in the upcoming F.P. Journe Museum, which will be located near its manufacture in downtown Geneva. Determined bidding The impressive result for the clock exceeded most expectations, including mine. I had expected a result in the region of CHF2.5 million. And in a bit of intrigue before the auction, F.P. Journe sent out an announcement to its clients before the auction stating that it would not repair or service Sympathique no. 1; the buyer of the clock would have to go to Breguet. Getting to the hammer price was not difficult, illustrating the strength of the F.P. Journe name today. While there were a handful of bidders under the million-franc mark, it was eventually down to a gentleman in the room and Mr Journe himself. Past the CHF2 million mark it then turned into a contest between a phone bidder represented by Alex Ghotbi and Mr Journe. Bidding proceeded at a stea...

Bulova Precisionist: The Most Underrated Movement in the Watch Industr Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Aug 1, 2024

Bulova Precisionist: The Most Underrated Movement in the Watch Industr

Newcomers to the watch appreciation game can be forgiven for reflexively, and solely, crediting the Japanese with bringing electronics into the mainstream of the watch industry, but the embryonic phase of the technology took place in the United States. And the most accurate electronic movement on the market today emerged from the synergy between one of America's most historic home-grown watch manufacturers and one of Japan's most innovative pioneers of timekeeping technology. It's called the Precisionist, it's exclusive to Bulova, and while you may not have heard of it or know much about it, it's becoming a fixture in several Bulova watches that increasingly demand enthusiast attention. Bulova, founded in New York City in 1875 by Bohemian immigrant Joseph Bulova, was one of the first watchmakers in the world to seriously explore the development of electronics in wristwatch movements. In 1960, just a few years after another American watch manufacturer, Hamilton, had introduced its flawed but groundbreaking electric-powered Ventura (more on that here), Bulova unveiled its own high-tech timepiece, the Accutron Spaceview 214. The watch took its numerical designation from its movement, Caliber 214, a revolutionary mechanism in which the balance wheel, which drives the timekeeping in a mechanical movement, was replaced by a tuning fork, powered by a one-transistor electronic oscillator. This system ensured an oscillation rate of 360 hertz - nearly 150 times faster than tha...

Business News: Greubel Forsey Gets New CEO SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Gets New CEO Greubel Apr 30, 2024

Business News: Greubel Forsey Gets New CEO

Greubel Forsey has just announced a change of leadership, with Michel Nydegger assuming the role of chief executive officer. Interestingly, the current chief executive officer, Antonio Calce, will then become a vice president starting August 2024. Mr Nydegger joined the brand eight years ago and rose to his present role of head of marketing and communications in 2021, shortly after Mr Calce took over. Mr Nydegger was part of the team that supercharged Greubel Forsey’s revenue and profitability, and embarked on an expansion of its “inclined” manufacture, thanks in part to a bestselling line of sports watches introduced by Mr Calce. According to the company, despite the management changes, “Greubel Forsey will remain independent, with Robert Greubel, Stephen Forsey, and Antonio Calce continuing as shareholders.” The significance of this leadership transition at Greubel Forsey is not yet publicly known, although there has been talk that the brand is seeking new investors. The company’s ownership structure was simplified in 2022 when Richemont sold its 20% stake to Messrs Greubel, Forsey, and Calce. One rumoured scenario is that a consortium led by a well-known industry personality is taking over Greubel Forsey, something that may be announced in fall 2024.  

The Last Cabinotier of Saint Gervais SJX Watches
Nov 9, 2020

The Last Cabinotier of Saint Gervais

Few tourists find themselves in Geneva’s historic Saint Gervais district, the city’s revolutionary hotbed where Jean-Jacques Rousseau spent his boyhood in the early 18th century, and from where James Fazy overthrew Geneva’s ruling oligarchy in the revolt of 1846. Throughout those times, Saint Gervais was above all the city’s horological powerhouse, a warren of sweatshops known as the Fabrique Genevoise, turning out the myriad parts and decorating the watches that made Geneva synonymous with luxury craftsmanship. The workshops were presided over by those emblematic figures of Geneva watchmaking, the radical, opinionated yet urbane cabinotiers. “A Parisian watchmaker,” remarked Rousseau, “can only talk about watches. But you can take a Geneva watchmaker anywhere.”[1] With the revival of luxury watchmaking in the late 20th century, the Fabrique was re-born in the less picturesque ZIPLO (Zone Industriel de Plan-les-Ouates) on the outskirts of town, and the sweatshops are now known as manufactures. Yet there’s still one watchmaker left in the remnants of old Saint Gervais, upholding the cabinotier tradition in this historic centre of Geneva watchmaking. Bruno Pesenti, the last watchmaker in Geneva’s historical watchmaking district, wears the smock and eyeshade of the cabinotiers who made watches here 200 years ago Forgotten brands Bruno Pesenti is one of the few watchmakers who can still fix anything pre-quartz. He welcomes you with modest pride and old-fash...

Young Japanese Watchmaker Norifumi Seki Makes His Debut SJX Watches
Mar 4, 2020

Young Japanese Watchmaker Norifumi Seki Makes His Debut

Just 23 years old – he was born in 1997 – Norifumi Seki graduated from watchmaking school last year, and recently completed his first timepiece, the Sphere Moon Phase Pocket Watch. Though inspired by the works of past watchmakers, Mr Seki’s creation is surprisingly novel in both aesthetics and construction, especially since it is essentially a school project. Based in Tokyo, Mr Seki has trod a short path to create this impressive watch. After graduating from junior high school, which is for children aged 12 to 15 in Japan, his interest in mechanics and craftsmanship led him to fabricate simple objects, including a beautifully-made folding knife. Inspiration In 2016, Mr Seki met Masahiro Kikuno – arguably Japan’s most interesting contemporary watchmaker – who inspired him to manufacture a watch by hand. And so at age 18, Mr Seki entered Hiko Mizuno College of Jewelry, a school in Tokyo’s Shibuya district that also teaches watchmaking and shoemaking. During his final year in school, Mr Seki started on his own watch. It’s a large pocket watch with a regulator-style time display, oversized date and month indicators, along with an extra-large spherical moon phase. Spherical moon and drum calendar Made entirely of titanium, the moon phase is 20 mm in diameter and set via a recessed pusher in the case band. A third of the sphere is heat-blued titanium, while the other is coated in gold. Show in two large windows, each containing two drums for the digits, the cale...