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Breguet Introduces the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 in White Gold and Blue SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces May 18, 2022

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 in White Gold and Blue

Introduced in 2005, the Breguet Tradition is characterised by its inverted movement that reveals most of the movement on the dial. It was a modern concept inspired by the 19th century: the movement was inspired by the souscription pocket watches created by Abraham-Louis Breguet. Since its launch the Tradition has grown into a full-fledged collection ranging from time-only models to the top-of-the-line tourbillon with fusee-and-chain. One of the simplest, yet most striking, is the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597, which has been given a new look with an attractive blue dial. Initial thoughts I have always found the Tradition attractive, particularly the early models with smaller case sizes that tend to work better with in traditional palettes like yellow gold or “pink-on-pink”. The newer models are more sophisticated mechanically, but their cases are larger while the colours are mostly modern in greys and blacks, so the retro-elegance is absent. But the latest Quantième Rétrograde is amongst the best looking Tradition models in the current catalogue. It’s mechanically identical to the original introduced in 2020, but now it gets a two-tone dial that has more contrast, giving it with a stronger character and easily setting it apart from the more classical Tradition models. The date indicator makes a 180 degree jump at the end of each month The blue-on-grey livery isn’t novel, since it was used before on the boutique edition Tradition 7097, a simpler watch tha...

Gérald Genta’s Personal (And Unique) Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Ref. 5402 Auctioned By Sotheby’s For Record-Setting CHF 2,107,000 Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Ref May 11, 2022

Gérald Genta’s Personal (And Unique) Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Ref. 5402 Auctioned By Sotheby’s For Record-Setting CHF 2,107,000

“May I have your full attention? This is one of the most important watches ever.” As Sotheby’s auctioneer Benoît Colson opened lot 72 on May 10, 2022, the room seemed to hold its collective breath for a moment. He continued, “The personal Royal Oak of Gérald Genta – you could not dream of a better provenance for a Royal Oak, an Audemars Piguet, or even any wristwatch.” And here's how the world record price for a vintage AP Royal Oak went down from an eyewitness.

The ultimate Rolex barn find in the desert: “I’ve been watch-hunting for 30 years, but never found anything like this…” Time+Tide
Rolex barn find May 9, 2022

The ultimate Rolex barn find in the desert: “I’ve been watch-hunting for 30 years, but never found anything like this…”

EDITOR’S NOTE: John Karambelas is the man behind @barnfindwatches, an Instagram account that documents his watch-collecting adventures as he attempts to uncover old watches gathering dust in flea markets and thrift stores across America. Here, John shares the story of his ultimate barn find, which he randomly stumbled upon while driving through the Mojave Desert.  … ContinuedThe post The ultimate Rolex barn find in the desert: “I’ve been watch-hunting for 30 years, but never found anything like this…” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Hands-on May 9, 2022

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Hands-on Review

What we love: Good size for most wristsModern design and unobtrusiveGreat looking and long-lasting green and blue lume What we don’t love: Some may find embossed case back can be a little irritating on the wristLess than the standard 38hr power reserve on the AutomaticSome wearers may find the large crown tends to stick out more and can irritate the wrist/back of the hand Overall rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.0/10 Wearability: 7.0/ 10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 After reviewing the TAG Heuer 60th Anniversary Autavia Flyback Chronograph the last week, I was eager to see how this new era of TAG translated to the newly released Aquaracer Professional 200 – a modern take on the classic Aquaracer line. Whilst the watch is in no way in the same league as the Autavia, nor should it be at the price point ($4,000 AUD for the Auto, $2,950 for the Quartz), I came away with mixed feelings about this newly released line. A New Chapter In The Story The Aquaracer story began in 1978 when Jack Heuer introduced the Heuer Reference 844. Designed for men and women who loved outdoor sports and adventures in nature – on land or in the water – the watch defined a new high-performance category of versatile wristwatches that could be relied on in extreme conditions. The Aquaracer name was added in 2004 and continued the legacy of the family’s six design codes: a unidirectional rotating bezel; a screw-down crown; water resistance to at least 200 metres; luminous markings; a...

Six months later: Am I still in love with my Grand Seiko SBGM247? Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGM247? Recently I’ve made May 8, 2022

Six months later: Am I still in love with my Grand Seiko SBGM247?

Recently, I’ve made a habit of fantasising about forever watches in my collection. It’s something I feel should exist at the core of every collector, regardless of what they collect. I find the thought of owning something for so long that it becomes synonymous with you classically romantic. Yet, I’d be remiss in not acknowledging … ContinuedThe post Six months later: Am I still in love with my Grand Seiko SBGM247? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Complecto – a watch community with diversity at the forefront Time+Tide
Apr 29, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Complecto – a watch community with diversity at the forefront

Ricardo here again! Before I hand the mic back over to Zach for the usual Friday Wind Down programming, I quickly wanted to give a shoutout to an exciting event happening this week here in NYC. Months back, we did a  “Who to Follow” feature on Jason, who was focused on building a new type … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Complecto – a watch community with diversity at the forefront appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Exploring the Baume & Mercier novelties from Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Apr 28, 2022

VIDEO: Exploring the Baume & Mercier novelties from Watches & Wonders

Baume & Mercier have established themselves as a go-to option for great watches at a mid-range luxury price, and their impressive lineup from Watches & Wonders only expands the possibilities for potential customers to fall in love. While their more heritage-focused lines such as the Classima and the Hampton received a few tasty updates, it’s … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Exploring the Baume & Mercier novelties from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MEET THE TEAM: Borna shares his 5 sleeper hits from Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Apr 28, 2022

MEET THE TEAM: Borna shares his 5 sleeper hits from Watches & Wonders

Having held the fort back in Melbourne during Watches & Wonders 2022, I couldn’t help but feel just a little bit of FOMO. It would’ve been great to see the show, but the pain of missing out was eased by the sterling coverage from the rest of the team. Cheers, folks! Today, however, I want to … ContinuedThe post MEET THE TEAM: Borna shares his 5 sleeper hits from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Time Design Exhibition: Hands And Eyes On The Beauty Of Watchmaking Quill & Pad
Apr 22, 2022

Time Design Exhibition: Hands And Eyes On The Beauty Of Watchmaking

If you attended Watches and Wonders 2022, you may have noticed the large exhibition called Time Design right near the entrance, which was organized by the cultural arm of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. If you missed the Time Design exhibition at the fair, you may now see it until May 8, 2022 in the FHH’s space at Pont de la Machine right in the center of Geneva. It is free and open to the public.

INTRODUCING: The trimmed down Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Time+Tide
Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Apr 16, 2022

INTRODUCING: The trimmed down Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm

For the last two weeks, the watch world has been transfixed by the “new”. New watches. New collections. Even new movements. And in such times, it’s easy for a brand to fall into this desire for novelty. But that isn’t the case for the young brand Norqain. For them, doing something new for the sake … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The trimmed down Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5470P 1/10th of a Second Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 6, 2022

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5470P 1/10th of a Second Chronograph

Just after the curtain fell on Watches & Wonders 2022 – on the day after the fair closed in fact – Patek Philippe unveils one of its technical highlights for the year, the 1/10th of a Second Monopusher Chronograph ref. 5470P-001. In a first for the Geneva watchmaker, the chronograph is equipped with a high-frequency balance that beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5 Hz. The high-beat movement results in a lighting seconds hand that completes one revolution around the dial every 12 seconds, allowing the chronograph to precisely record elapsed times with a resolution of 1/10ths of a second (barring user error). This lightning seconds hand runs in tandem with the regular chronograph seconds hand, resulting in an unusual sight on the dial when the chronograph is running. Initial thoughts While lightning seconds chronographs have been done before, it’s surprising to see a traditionalist brand such as Patek Philippe have a go at the complication. The function is often associated with brands with a sporty, contemporary aesthetic like TAG Heuer and Zenith. In terms of aesthetics, the ref. 5470P is another example of the brand continuing to move towards a more modern, striking style, even for otherwise classical models. But under the hood is where it shines. Despite the seemingly simple idea of tacking on an additional gear train for the 1/10th of a second hand, the movement inside underwent a deceptively complex modification. And in typical Patek Philippe fashion, the co...

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak S SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces Apr 2, 2022

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak S

Perhaps a sleeper hit of Watches & Wonders 2022, the Ulysse Nardin Freak S is an intriguing evolution of the brand’s trademark watch that makes its debut just as Ulysse Nardin has become an independent brand. The Freak S is equipped with twin balance wheels, but mounted on a central carousel as is de rigueur for a Freak. Initial thoughts The first twin-balance watch from Ulysse Nardin, the Freak S is perhaps the coolest iteration of the model since its inception in 2001. It has come a long way since the original, having been obviously enhanced in both style and performance. While its most obvious feature are the double balances, the Freak S also includes several details that enthusiasts will appreciate. For starters, it is a purebred Freak. Like the original, it does without a conventional dial, hands, and crown. In comparison, some of the more recent Freaks are more conventional in their execution. Thanks to double balances linked by a differential, the carousel is more striking than ever, while promising improved timekeeping. At the same time, the brand’s proprietary “Grinder” system means the Freak S is self-winding, eliminating the hassle of manually winding the huge mainspring via the notched back. Twin balances with a differential The overarching theme of a Freak is a movement that stands out, literally. The movement sits on three levels – carousel, barrel, and winding system, all arranged one over the other. Most of the movement, including the oscillat...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Galvin Watch Company Loimu is a funky-dialled sporty watch at a great price Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Mar 28, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Galvin Watch Company Loimu is a funky-dialled sporty watch at a great price

Galvin Watch Company, a notable Kickstarter success, present their newest creation: the Loimu collection. Affordably priced and with a high-beat Japanese automatic movement, the release shapes up as a left-field choice for a great everyday watch. Behind the brand After gaining noteworthy industry experience working for TAG Heuer and Omega, Finnish watchmaker Susan Galvin who’s now based … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Galvin Watch Company Loimu is a funky-dialled sporty watch at a great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Black Series makes a welcome return with the stealth of a ninja Time+Tide
Seiko Black Series makes Mar 23, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Black Series makes a welcome return with the stealth of a ninja

It should come as no surprise that a second round of additions to Seiko’s Black Series have arrived, given the instant success of the first few watches. The series perfectly pulls off that stealthy, tactical look without sacrificing legibility or needing third-party modifications, and the four new watches are each full of character that will … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Black Series makes a welcome return with the stealth of a ninja appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

This Girard-Perregaux Laureato traded below €40k, now it’s over €100k Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato traded below €40k Mar 16, 2022

This Girard-Perregaux Laureato traded below €40k, now it’s over €100k

Editor’s Note: We recently partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into the first generation A. Lange & Söhne Datograph watches, and whether or not they are seriously undervalued today. Today we are going to dive into … ContinuedThe post This Girard-Perregaux Laureato traded below €40k, now it’s over €100k appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Five new Tissot PRX 35mm pieces get a bold new look Time+Tide
Tissot PRX 35mm pieces get Mar 15, 2022

INTRODUCING: Five new Tissot PRX 35mm pieces get a bold new look

The words “Tissot PRX” have crossed my lips on many occasions over the past year or so since its release, mostly in the context of discussing watches that represent fantastic value. Yet despite its 40mm size and compact lug-to-lug, the non-articulating first link caused some small-wristed wearers to look for other options. But the fantastic … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Five new Tissot PRX 35mm pieces get a bold new look appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Connected 42mm is the biggest leap forward for Swiss smartwatches yet Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Connected 42mm Mar 13, 2022

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Connected 42mm is the biggest leap forward for Swiss smartwatches yet

Since its introduction in 2015, the TAG Heuer Connected has seen a number of iterations, all sitting atop the luxury smartwatch pile. With the new 42mm Connected Calibre E4, rather than compete with giants of the tech world and the Silicon Valley, TAG Heuer looks to extend its lead as a luxury smartwatch maker. With … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Connected 42mm is the biggest leap forward for Swiss smartwatches yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original 40mm Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Ball Watch es may not be Mar 9, 2022

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original 40mm Hands-on Review

What we like: Great looking watch with solid engineeringExcellent fit and finishComfortable on the wrist What we didn’t : Crown guard may feel fiddly for day-to-day useSharpish edges on the claspNot the easiest watch to change straps Overall rating: 8.125 /10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 First things first. Let’s all get our minds out of the gutter and leave the crude, juvenile schoolyard jokes behind. We’re better than that. Aren’t we? Yes, I get that jokes about balls are just too easy and we should all rise above it and move on to more sophisticated humour. Probably. Ball watches may not be front of mind for the vast majority of us considering a watch purchase, but it really shouldn’t be overlooked… once you get past the name… Yes, I know what I typed just in the previous paragraph. But it’s just too easy. As the size of your balls, all the best quality of the watches are hidden, away from prying eyes. But once you dive deeper you’ll see that perhaps these inner qualities are worth a second glance. Or three. To be honest, much like the rest of you, I’ve not given the Balls a second glance. Even though I’ve known about the brand for a long time, the only thing that I knew about them was their glow-in-the-dark capabilities, thanks to their tritium gas tube technology. Other than that, to me, they were just another brand utilising reliable workhorse movements from ETA/sellita, but not much else stood o...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Héron Gladiateur delivers tough, Spartan looks elevated by a cracker of a bezel Time+Tide
Feb 28, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Héron Gladiateur delivers tough, Spartan looks elevated by a cracker of a bezel

How on earth can anyone be expected to choose their next watch these days? It almost seems like there are hundreds of new Kickstarter microbrands popping up each month, each with their own unique quirks that make them seem irresistible to people wanting to fill niches in a collection. Héron Watches are a refreshing change-up, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Héron Gladiateur delivers tough, Spartan looks elevated by a cracker of a bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar “Tutorial” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Feb 15, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar “Tutorial”

Already “fool-proof” as complicated watches go, the H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar has just been given a stylish facelift, resulting in a pair of watches bearing the signature smoked blue dial. The first of the two is the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue that is almost identical to its predecessor but even more minimalist with a barely-there logo in transparent lacquer. But the headline model is surely the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial, which has a whimsical user guide on the dial. The Tutorial (left) and the Funky Blue Initial thoughts I like the Tutorial because it has an ingenious movement and a sense of humour. Though the dial is the only element that’s different with the Tutorial, it is certainly an improved watch than its predecessor, simply because it perfectly encapsulates the quirkiness that defines H. Moser & Cie. The dial is so obvious that the watch really does stand out – it is certainly s a conversation piece. But it is the juxtaposition of the tongue-in-cheek schematics on the dial and the serious mechanics underneath gives the watch an amusing, original character. Perhaps only the Schaffhausen-based watchmaker that can pull this off without looking silly, given its technical competence and humorous spirit. That said, the “cheat sheet” dial is entirely practical, as it helps with both adjusting and reading the calendar – somewhat ironically since the Moser perpetual calendar mechanism is one of the most fuss free on the ma...

Cartier And HBO’s ‘And Just Like That,’ The ‘Sex And The City’ Sequel (Attention: Spoilers Ahead) Quill & Pad
Cartier Feb 9, 2022

Cartier And HBO’s ‘And Just Like That,’ The ‘Sex And The City’ Sequel (Attention: Spoilers Ahead)

One streaming series Elizabeth Doerr was really looking forward to was 'And Just Like That,' the much-anticipated sequel to 'Sex and the City.' She has always loved the taboo-laden adventures of the quartet of New York City fashionista heroines of this story and their diverse love lives – escapism at its best with lots of funky fashion to ogle and girl talk to laugh along with. It was the perfect show for Cartier to fill with product placement, too, even if reviews haven't been the greatest. Here's why.

Ball Engineering Hydrocarbon NEDU Chronograph Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Feb 7, 2022

Ball Engineering Hydrocarbon NEDU Chronograph Hands-on Review

What we love: Proper solid built watch overallClasp feel very secure on the wristGAS Tube Lume is sensational at night What we don’t love: Thickness, at 17.3mm some may find this hard to wear under the cuff Some may find the crown guard to be fiddlySome may find the Clasp can dig into the wrist Overall rating: 7.5/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7/10 Design: 7/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 Once upon a time, if you wanted a mid-priced automatic chronograph, chances are it’ll be powered by the ETA 7750 (or one of its close siblings), and the only choice really was the brand and the style. The movement was so ubiquitous that it was literally everywhere and fitted to almost everything. The dial layout was distinctive, and the rotor wobble was familiar, instantly giving away the engine within. Don’t get me wrong. This wasn’t a bad thing. The movement is a low key high achiever, easily running within COSC specs day in and day out without so much as breaking a sweat. It is a tough, durable, workhorse movement, designed from the beginning as an integrated chronograph, making it very efficient and the “almost 2 days” of power reserve is a testament to that fact. You might scoff at the power reserve but keeping in mind that this movement has been around since the 70s, largely unchanged, and 2 days was the norm for many decades. Plus, if you wear it every day, then it’s really a moot point. The only thing that might generate heated debate is how much value you attac...

The super-exclusive Tudor Black Bay that you’ve never seen before Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Feb 7, 2022

The super-exclusive Tudor Black Bay that you’ve never seen before

Editor’s note: There are a lot of watches out there and while we endeavour to stay across as many as we can, truth be told, some fly under the radar (fly being the operative word in this case). That’s why we were delighted when a Time+Tide reader, Edouard, informed us about a watch we’d never … ContinuedThe post The super-exclusive Tudor Black Bay that you’ve never seen before appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato going for nearly twice its retail price Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato going Feb 2, 2022

WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato going for nearly twice its retail price

Editor’s Note: We recently partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into the Rolex 2022 price hikes to see which models were most affected and what that meant for buyers worldwide. Today we are going to dive … ContinuedThe post WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato going for nearly twice its retail price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.