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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

The Universal Genève Polerouter Gets the Reference Treatment in a Gorgeous New Book Covering the Enormous Breadth of the Collection Worn & Wound
Universal Genève Dec 6, 2023

The Universal Genève Polerouter Gets the Reference Treatment in a Gorgeous New Book Covering the Enormous Breadth of the Collection

Over the last several years, something has happened to the humble Universal Geneve Polerouter. This watch, once a go-to recommendation for collector’s looking to get their feet wet in the world of vintage, has risen in stature, value, and overall name recognition as the watch market has expanded. As with any niche hobby that, over time, approaches the mainstream, hidden gems become less hidden. The Polerouter, while not a household name like the Speedmaster or Submariner, is not nearly as under the radar as it used to be.  While those of us who have been around this stuff for years might mourn the availability of great examples of the Polerouter on the cheap, it’s hard not to be happy that people are discovering and appreciating the watch. As a gateway to the hobby, and vintage specifically, it’s a collection that could lead a curious collector down any number of paths, each one rewarding in a different way. That’s because there are so many ways to approach the Polerouter: as a creation from the mind of the biggest name in the history of watch design, as an elegant sports watch that helped set a template for some of the most popular watches of the current era, and as an uncommon mechanical triumph. And, of course, it’s still a relatively accessible piece of a key part of watch history, and a great representation of Universal Geneve, a brand that exists today as a time capsule.  Perhaps one of the clearest signals that the Polerouter has crossed a threshold of s...

Oak & Oscar’s New Limited Edition is the Perfect Match for Bourbon Lovers Worn & Wound
Oak & Oscar Dec 6, 2023

Oak & Oscar’s New Limited Edition is the Perfect Match for Bourbon Lovers

If you’ve met Chase Fancher, founder of Oak & Oscar, you probably know that he’s something of a bourbon enthusiast. I’m not saying you’ll be plied with the stuff if you come hang out at his booth at a Windup, but I’m not saying that’s definitively off the table, either. So it wasn’t a huge surprise when news came across the transom that Oak & Oscar’s latest limited edition is a thoughtful collaboration with FEW Spirits, whose founder and master distiller Paul Hletko is a personal friend of Chase’s. The new watch, a variation on Oak & Oscar’s popular Olmsted, the brand’s 38mm field watch, has plenty of little Easter eggs for bourbon lovers, but is also just a great looking execution of what has become a signature referenced.  Those Easter eggs are threefold. First, the dial the color of the Olmsted FEW is a dark salmon tone lifted directly from FEW’s own color palette. It should be immediately recognizable to fans of the FEW spirits, but is also an altogether appealing shade in its own right, and represents Oak & Oscar’s first attempt at a salmon dial, a color that has taken off in popularity (and proven to be highly versatile in a huge variety of watches) over the last few years. Second, and this is somewhat standard on these types of collaborations, the FEW logo is displayed near the 6:00 position. Besides the FEW and Oak & Oscar branding, the dial is quite clean, without any excess text, and lets the color shine (but, not literally, because it...

Introducing – The Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic Polar for Ace Jewelers Monochrome
Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic Polar Dec 6, 2023

Introducing – The Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic Polar for Ace Jewelers

In 2020, Guillaume Laidet breathed new life into Nivada Grenchen, unveiling heritage-inspired models like the Chronomaster and the Antarctic. The brand’s resurgence continued with modern interpretations and reissues, including the Super Antarctic series, the brand’s take on the exploration watch. The collaboration with Dutch retailer Ace Jewelers has given rise to the latest release, the […]

Book Review: ‘The Polerouter’, a Universal Genève Odyssey SJX Watches
Universal Genève Dec 6, 2023

Book Review: ‘The Polerouter’, a Universal Genève Odyssey

The Polerouter. By Andrew Willis and Mattia Mazzucchi. Time Honoured Ltd. £225. A timepiece intertwined with the allure of pioneering trans-polar flights flown by Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS), the Universal Genève Polerouter is a symbol of 1950s glamour and adventure. Ardent Polerouter enthusiasts Andrew Willis and Mattia Mazzucchi embarked on a collaborative journey four years ago on comprehensive book dedicated to the iconic watch, aptly titled The Polerouter. The book delves into the fascinating world of the Polerouter, a timepiece fondly regarded by many in the world of vintage watches. This is demonstrated in the forewords written by individuals like John Goldberger, author and collector; Virginie Liatard-Roessli, watch specialist at Phillips; and Alessandro Fanciulli, a well-known social media figure and dealer better known as “Mr A”.  The authors themselves, however, are scholars but amateurs – Mr Willis is a mathematician while Mr Mazzucchi is a nautical interior designer. The narrative unfolds across various chapters, each dedicated to a specific model, highlighting key milestones in the Polerouter’s evolution. Across almost 400 pages, the authors meticulously document each model’s distinct characteristics, from the SAS Polarouter to the Polerouter Sub. The information unfolds chronologically, beginning with the SAS Polarouter and systematically exploring each Polerouter model. Notably, the book intentionally omits esoteric models such as the P...

You’re Invited to the Worn & Wound Party at the New Citizen Flagship Boutique in NYC Worn & Wound
Citizen Flagship Boutique Dec 5, 2023

You’re Invited to the Worn & Wound Party at the New Citizen Flagship Boutique in NYC

You are invited to join Worn & Wound for a party celebrating the NEW Citizen Flagship Boutique in the heart of NYC. On Tuesday, December 12, be among the first to experience this stunning boutique celebrating the watches of Citizen. Join both the Worn & Wound and Citizen teams, as well as fellow enthusiasts for an after-hours deep dive into the Citizen collection. Enjoy drinks, snacks, and great company. Anyone who comes will be entered into a giveaway to win a Citizen watch and everyone will also get a special gift. Space is limited so don’t miss out! Get all the event details and add your RSVP here. Please note: An RSVP must be submitted for each person interested in attending. The post You’re Invited to the Worn & Wound Party at the New Citizen Flagship Boutique in NYC appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Hands On: the Jack Mason Strat-o-timer and Hydrotimer Worn & Wound
Dec 5, 2023

Hands On: the Jack Mason Strat-o-timer and Hydrotimer

I have long believed and said before, on this site and elsewhere, that we are living in the golden age of being a watch enthusiast. As time has passed, the quantity and quality of selection at accessible price points is remarkable. Alongside the influx of collectors are new brands catering to every taste and budget, and therein lies the challenge: how do watch companies stand out and make lasting names for themselves with tool watches in the crowded sub-thousand dollar segment? Texas-based (Dallas represent!) Jack Mason claims to have answers with two of its most prominent models, the travel-ready Strat-o-timer GMT and more recently-released Hydrotimer dive watch. A closer look and hands on provide clues to how these references can set themselves apart from one another and their competition today. Cases and Bracelets In a clever move, Jack Mason has decided to utilize the original Strat-o-timer case as the foundation for the Hydrotimer. The turtle-esque cushion style cases measure 40mm wide, 47mm lug-to-lug, and 13mm thick with screw-down crowns. Beyond the obvious economic and manufacturing benefits of sharing a case, this allows the brand to have a recognizable and consistent silhouette across its product lines. Initial impressions of the cases and bracelets are that they are substantial and are of high and obvious quality, especially for the price. In particular, the edges between the brushed and polished surfaces of the case are well-defined and well done. The toleranc...

DOXA Adds Some Elegant Touches to their Iconic Dive Watch with the Sub 300β Worn & Wound
Doxa Adds Some Elegant Touches Dec 5, 2023

DOXA Adds Some Elegant Touches to their Iconic Dive Watch with the Sub 300β

DOXA has recently announced the release of the all new Sub 300β, a reimagining of their classic dive watch. Coming in five colorways, the latest iteration of the Sub 300β will catch the eye of those unfamiliar with the brand, while reiterating why DOXA has sustained a cult-like following for nearly the entirety of its 130-year history. To understand the 300β, let’s first look back at the history of the Sub line. In 1967, DOXA revolutionized professional diving watches with the introduction of the SUB concept, the first mainstream model of its kind. Water-resistant to 300 meters, it featured a groundbreaking unidirectional rotating bezel with dual dive time and depth indications, incorporating the US Navy’s no-decompression dive tables. The iconic orange dial set it apart and became synonymous with underwater exploration, even catching the attention of Jacques-Yves Cousteau, who secured exclusive distribution rights for the SUB 300 in the USA. In 1969, DOXA continued its innovation with the SUB 300T Conquistador, introducing the helium release valve (HRV). Designed for saturation diving, the HRV allows trapped helium to escape during decompression, preventing pressure build-up and potential damage to the watch. This marked another pioneering move by DOXA in ensuring the durability and functionality of their timepieces in the most challenging underwater environments. Now, available today, the new 300β has taken this history as a jumping-off point for the brand to rei...

Hands-on – The Purple-Coloured Bovet Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two Monochrome
Bovet Dec 4, 2023

Hands-on – The Purple-Coloured Bovet Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two

Established in 1822, Bovet emerged as a prominent player in the high-end timepiece industry. Throughout the 19th century, Bovet became one of the most distinguished names in China, crafting opulent pocket watches adorned with lavish enamels and embellished with pearls. This distinctive, ornate aesthetic has transcended time and echoes in the contemporary Bovet timepieces, a […]

Ressence Brings Some Color to the Type 1 Worn & Wound
Ressence Brings Some Color Dec 4, 2023

Ressence Brings Some Color to the Type 1

In the big wide world of watches, there is nothing quite like a Ressence. The Belgium-based brand has made its name through futuristic designs that utilize co-planar revolving discs and other dial elements to create a cohesive and interesting time-telling experience. In the brand’s lineup, the Type 1 Round is positioned as the foundation and the most distilled vision of what Ressence stands for. The new Type 1° M, however, reveals a playful side that has not been seen before. Out with the staid black and gray tones for which the brand has been so well known for; it’s time for some color. The Type 1 Round’s case is, well, round, and measures 42.7mm wide, 47mm lug to lug, and 11mm thick. It is made of Grade 5 Titanium and does away with a traditional crown (more on winding in a moment). The dial is in the classic Ressence regulator style and displays days, hours, minutes, and seconds. Without a number in sight, which is which? On this multi-colored version it’s a little easier to ascertain: the blue chapter ring along the edge of the dial marks the seconds while the green dial tracks the hours. Yellow is for running seconds, and the red segmented ring marks the days of the week with the two outlined sections representing the weekend. Under the hood, Ressence’s patented Orbital Convex System (ROCS) enables the modules for the hours, minutes, seconds, and days to continuously revolve around one another. The movement is based on a (heavily) modified ETA-2892 and runs...

Introducing – The Hanhart Red X Grey & Blue Flyback Chronograph and Dashboard Stopwatch Twin-Set Monochrome
Dec 4, 2023

Introducing – The Hanhart Red X Grey & Blue Flyback Chronograph and Dashboard Stopwatch Twin-Set

Hanhart is famous for its Flieger chronographs, historic pilot watches with a red pusher to prevent pilots from accidentally zeroing the stop time. However, Hanhart is also renowned for its stopwatches. In fact, Johann Hanhart started life in Switzerland in 1882 as a manufacturer of stopwatches before relocating to Germany in 1902, where his son, […]

Introducing – The Retro-Styled Union Glashütte Noramis Chronograph Sport Monochrome
Union Glashütte Dec 4, 2023

Introducing – The Retro-Styled Union Glashütte Noramis Chronograph Sport

German watchmaker Union Glashütte expands its Noramis collection by introducing three chronograph references tailored for aquatic adventures. The Noramis Date Sport (2021) marked the inception of the sporty retro-inspired series, featuring a unidirectionally rotating bezel and boasting 200m water resistance with distinctive gradient dials. Drawing inspiration from the success of this model and existing Noramis […]