555 articles · 102 videos found · page 4 of 22
Revolution
We take a look at the Escale Worldtime from Louis Vuitton, a marvellously beautiful Worldtimer with an ingenious mechanism that allows the forward and backing setting of the time and a hand-painted dial. Easily one of the stars of the collection for Louis Vuitton this year at Baselworld 2014. Look out for a more in-depth […]
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet (AP) is a storied name in haute horlogerie, and has long been the public face of the Vallée de Joux, the cradle of high complications in Switzerland. It’s also the only brand in the so-called ‘holy trinity’ to employ a Chief Industrial Officer (CIO). We sat down with Lucas Raggi to understand his role in shaping AP’s industrial strategy. The historical home of Audemars Piguet. Image – Audemars Piguet The context Having closed the chapter on the brand’s first 150 years, AP is flying high. According to Vontobel estimates, the brand generated more than CHF2.4 billion in 2025, making it the third-largest brand by revenue after mass market masters Rolex and Cartier. The brand is estimated to have produced more than 50,000 watches in 2025, up from 30,000 just a few years ago. The ribbon-cutting ceremony at the opening of AP’s new Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus. Image – Audemars Piguet The new Arc Manufacture, which just came online, might raise the ceiling further. In a 2022 interview then-chief executive François-Henry Bennahmias suggested AP would be capable of making up to 65,000 watches annually by 2027. These numbers represent extraordinary growth for a century-old family owned brand that makes complicated watches. So how does a brand like AP (nearly) double its output in less than a generation without sacrificing small-scale craftsmanship? In short, thoughtful industrialisation. The recently opened Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus. Image – A...
Hodinkee
From Patek to Omega, five pulsation chronographs after our own hearts.
Deployant
The average cost of servicing a wristwatch is 3 to 5 figures. The estimated cost of servicing London's Big Ben? Approximately £29.2 million pounds
Revolution
Long overdue and a natural step to respond to the growing importance of the Asian market in the luxury watch industry, Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie will bring the most prestigious international watch exhibition outside Switzerland to the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Center this September. The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie is the organiser behind the massive […]
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SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. revisits a cinema classic with the Godfather II. A sequel to the acclaimed and extravagant Opera Godfather, the new model grounds the movement architecture while doubling down on the musical complication. Initial thoughts It is no secret that The Godfather trilogy is a personal favourite of jeweller and brand founder Jacob Arabo. He confessed his love for Francis Ford Coppola’s magnum opus when the Opera Godfather was first launched. A ticking music box, the timepiece played the famous Godfather Love Theme using a pin-barrel and comb system - a simple but reliable mechanism that sits at the heart of many music boxes. With this second model inspired by Mr Coppola’s saga, Jacob & Co. doubled down on the music box feature, adding a second tune that can be played in addition to the iconic theme. The second melody is the Godfather Waltz and the wearer can chose between either melody at the push of a button. While Jacob & Co. made a name for itself with opulent demonstrations of extravagant gemsetting, the Godfather II is unusually restrained, dialing back the flamboyance of the Opera Godfather without losing its musical virtuosity. The Art Deco-inspired case is a considered departure for Jacob & Co., a brand not typically associated with restraint. It suits the watch well, and suggests the manufacture is capable of more range than its catalogue suggests. The Godfather II is beloved by critics for portraying a grittier, more brutal reality of organised cr...
Teddy Baldassarre
[toc-section heading="Squale Overview"] Squale is a historic manufacture with a particular specialty in the realm of dive watches. The company’s heritage is deeper than you may realize, as it extends beyond its own footprint, touching an extensive list of partners that helped to shape the dive-watch genre as we know it today. The story of Squale is one of intrigue, and while it became a well known case supplier through the ‘60s and ‘70s, the Swiss brand also boasted a collection of its own designs that hold as well today as they did then. Understanding Squale means taking a step back into the era that birthed it, an era defined by the burgeoning sport of recreational diving as well as the advent of military diving operations. If you’re a fan of dive watches and the history of their use, Squale is a brand that should be on your radar thanks to its plentiful contributions. Beyond that, collectors will find a vast array of designs in the brand’s modern catalog that both break new ground and preserve the best portions of its history. In this overview, we’ll connect all the dots from then to now. [toc-section heading="History and Heritage"] Squale was founded by Charles von Büren in 1959 in the beautiful lakeside town of Neuchâtel, Switzerland. While that’s the official date, von Büren had been assembling watches under his own name for the prior decade, meaning he brought some pedigree to the name from the get-go. The modern dive watch genre was in its ...
Time+Tide
A week that brought us new ventures from old names, final runs of creativity, and dominant displays of watchmaking all round. The post New releases from Breitling, Squale, Richard Mille and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Squale Sub-37 Legend brings a 37mm case, sapphire box crystal, and Old Radium lume to the brand's growing dive watch lineup.
Worn & Wound
If you have been following us for a while, you are likely well versed in Squale’s divers, vintage-inspired designs, and limited edition runs. The brand has quietly been a leader in the realm of dive watches since the 60s with a cult following from hardcore dive watch nerds. In the past decade in particular, Squale has been getting more and more traction and recognition. In 2019, the brand notched its 60th anniversary and with that, introduced a new collection: the Sub-39. This limited edition fittingly paid homage to Squale’s early 1960s divers, using an original prototype with a 39mm case as reference. Following its success, the brand ultimately made the Sub-30 a permanent collection, upping the ante with COSC-certification and complications like a GMT. Today, we get the next evolution with the Sub-37 Legend. Focusing on the brand’s core tenants – proportions, function, and character – the new slightly sized down 37mm diver emphasizes form over function in a way that is faithful to the golden age of diving, an era when watches were designed to perform rather than to impress. Beginning with the dial, you have a fairly quintessential execution in matte black with a sapphire glass-box crystal reminiscent of vintage plexiglass while ensuring durability and optimal dial legibility. Visibility remains at the forefront of this utilitarian design with both the dial and hands treated with SuperLumiNova Old Radium. Framing the dial is a clean, highly readable unidirection...
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Time+Tide
Squale goes back to its 1960s roots to unveil a new functional yet perfectly proportioned professional dive watchThe post Squale goes back to its roots, unveiling the new 37mm SUB-37 Legend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The post Shades of Substance: The Squale Sub-39 GMT U.S. Limited Edition Watches appeared first on Quill & Pad.
Time+Tide
Sometimes the sequel is better than the original, and that's what Philippines-based microbrand Makina has delivered with the Andras_II.The post Makina aims for a smash hit sequel with the Andras_II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This limited edition vintage-inspired skin diver won over Jason thanks to its sandy fumé dial and modern specs.The post Doxa’s SUB 200 ‘Dune’ is a sandy sequel that sticks the landing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Jaquet Droz releases the Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold with a metiérs d'art dial featuring the Catrina Skull, an incarnation of the Mexican Day of the Dead.
Video
Time+Tide
All on show, all the time.The post The Chanel J12 X-Ray bares all of the brand’s watchmaking skill in full transparency appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
These days, it seems like every watchmaker is getting back to their roots and releasing redesigns or homages to past hits. I won’t speculate on what this means for the world psyche at the moment, but it has certainly produced a few discussion worthy pieces, whether controversial, widely popular, and everywhere in between. Swiss dive watch specialist Squale is capitalizing on the nostalgia boom with the Corallo NOS 2008. While the Corallo isn’t a rehash of a specific model for the brand-originally founded in 1959 as a case maker for other brands and known for their extreme divers and tool watches-it is a callback to designs of that decade, both from Squale and the watch world as a whole, and revives their “Corallo” case style from the decade, as they rediscovered 300 new old stock (or NOS) examples of the case in their archives three years ago. The name means “coral” in Italian, supposedly chosen for the eight rounded humps that form the bezel of the watch, giving it a shape reminiscent of the aquatic life form. I can’t see the resemblance, but I do like the silhouette that the humps give the watch, imbuing it with a symmetry that feels aggressively tactical, and makes sense for extreme diving applications; a gloved hand underwater will have no problem gripping the bezel with the namesake protrusions. The Corallo measures in at 36.8mm in diameter, 10.5mm in thickness, and 44mm lug-to-lug, and the 316L stainless steel case itself is a blend of the original ...
Fratello
The 1990s were a period of significant change in the watch industry. Those years were very much a time of realignment and ongoing recovery after the crippling Quartz Crisis two decades earlier. Today, we’re looking at 1990s watches and design principles from that era to consider whether they could inspire the next trends in the […] Visit Could The 1990s Inspire The Next Cycle Of Watch Fashion? to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The new Grand Seiko SLGC007 brings panda flavour to the Tentagraph.The post Grand Seiko debuts a Tentagraph sequel with a snow blue panda dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Squale is often regarded as sort of a hidden gem of the dive watch scene, a brand that speaks mostly to hardcore divers and seasoned aquatic watch enthusiasts. Created by Charles Von Büren in 1959, who also made cases for multiple other companies (military Fifty Fathoms watches, for example), the brand gained fame thanks to […]
Video
Monochrome
While widely known as a China-made movement, the Seagull ST-19 chronograph has always been well-accepted by the watch community. It looks good, it has a tried-and-tested architecture (well, of course, being a copy of an old Venus 175), it has a classic combo of column-wheel and horizontal clutch and, mostly, it made it possible to […]
Time+Tide
New case, same movement - but how?The post Studio Underd0g signs exclusive deal with Seagull, launching the third generation of the “iconic” 01Series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
When one of the world’s leading wine critics names a non-vintage champagne as their Wine of the Year (not just Champagne of the Year), then it is worth a look, especially in competition with 36,000 other wines. The wine is Laurent-Perrier’s Grand Siècle No 26.
Fratello
Our schedules were full at Geneva Watch Days 2024, but one of the most anticipated sessions was a late-afternoon meeting with Biver. We knew the young brand had a secret new release on the way, but details were scarce. The team, including Pierre Biver, showed us the new Biver Automatique line comprised of four references. […] Visit A Perfect Sequel - The New Biver Automatique Dials It Up to read the full article.
SJX Watches
To celebrating its 65th, Squale turns once again to the Italian navy for a dive watch collaboration: the 1521 Marina Militare. A tribute to the vintage 1521 model supplied to the divers of the Italian navy – officially known as the Marina Militare – in the 1980s, this limited edition bears the navy logo on the dial and the naval coat of arms on the case back. The rest of the watch is classic 1521 with its angular “Von Büren” case reminiscent of 1970s dive watches – that’s because Squale was historically also a supplier of cases to other brands that included Blancpain and Doxa. Initial thoughts Although vintage re-issues are common with micro-brands, few have true historical basis. Squale, however, does as it was both a supplier of dive watch cases to notable brands as well as suppliers of watches to the Italian navy. Even though the design of the isn’t novel or creative – it is a vintage reissue after all – the historical navy connection sets this apart from its peers. The dial, bezel, and strap feature orange accents Priced at US$1,430, 1521 Marina Militare is affordable and priced comparably to past Squale models. Like many watches in this price range it’s powered by an inexpensive Sellita SW 200-1. It’s priced similarly to most of the micro brand competition, but the Marine Militare connection makes this little a more interesting. Retro and orange The 1521 Marina Militare reproduces the vintage “Von Büren” case that is best known for having...
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