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Tank Cartier

Louis Cartier's 1917 rectangular design, inspired by the Renault FT tank.

Dimensions · Guide
Case dimensions: Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Small Cartier

22 × 29.5 mm × 6.6 mm, lug 16 mm, Quartz

Dimensions · Guide
Case dimensions: Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Large Cartier

25.5 × 33.7 mm × 6.6 mm, lug 18 mm, Cal. 1917 MC

Dimensions · Guide
Case dimensions: Cartier Tank Louis Cartier XL Cartier

29.5 × 39.2 mm × 7.2 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 1917 MC

The Most Important Watches of the 1990s Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier Tank Française"] Image Sotheby's Mar 13, 2026

The Most Important Watches of the 1990s

Given the rapid, cyclical nature of trends, it seems that the cultural zeitgeist proclaims every few years that “the 90s are so back.” I think the better question is, did the 90s ever really leave? Well, it's a good a time as any to revisit the 1990s watches that defined this seminal decade. Since the recent release of Ryan Murphy’s “Love Story” limited series retelling of Carolyn Bessette and John F. Kennedy Jr.’s relationship is gripping the pop-cultural imagination, it seems that I can’t open my phone without being digitally transported back to the 90s. While I could resist this specific flavor of nostalgia, it feels more fun to dive right in and lean into the latest obsession with the 90s, translating it into the context of watches. The 90s, after all, is quite a quirky and compelling era of watchmaking. Case sizes were getting bigger, marketing was getting flashier,  the industry was still righting itself after the quartz shakeup, and designs that still ring relevant today made their initial debuts. So without further ado, let's hop on in the metaphorical time machine to take a journey through the defining watches of the 90s. [toc-section heading="Cartier Tank Française"] Image: Sotheby's Selfishly, I’m going to kick us off with one of my favorite watches that came out of the 90s. Pretty much an immediate hit when it debuted in 1996, the Tank Française is where Cartier’s iconic design adopted a more laidback attitude. A marked shift from the forma...