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Le Locle

The Swiss Jura town where Daniel Jeanrichard planted watchmaking c.1700. Home to Ulysse Nardin, Tissot, Zenith, TAG Heuer HQ.

Photo Report: The Miami Beach Antique Show 2026 Hodinkee
Apr 27, 2026

Photo Report: The Miami Beach Antique Show 2026

The Original Miami Beach Antique Show (OMBAS) is one of my favorite trips of the year. For those of us deep in vintage watch appreciation, it's an absolute must-see. The show sees watch dealers and collectors flying in from all corners of the world for arguably the most important vintage show in the world. OMBAS is the sort of show you can find stuff you'll never see again, as well as things you simply didn't know existed. Ever wanted to see numerous Tasti Tondi's, Paul Newmans, and 2499's all in one room? This is where you do it. As its name suggests, it's truly a diverse show, with all manners of antiques you could think of, and those you couldn't, all for sale within the colossal Miami Beach Convention Center. The Miami Beach Convention Center Typically, the show is held just after the holidays in January, but for 2026, it was moved to March, a decision that also ensured much better weather for those fortunate enough to have spare time to explore. Held over six days, I picked up a few key takeaways from my time there compared to previous visits. Firstly, prices. Previously, it felt more possible to find deals at the show. Not as much with the watch dealers who know exactly what they have, but from those stands that stock all sorts of antiques, who also just happened to have a few watches hidden away. They were always the gold mines for vintage scores. Nowadays, it seems everyone knows what they have, which seems to be down to one thing: the price of gold. The desirabili...

Auctions: Phillips Bringing Three Mega Pateks to Its Spring Sales Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Apr 23, 2026

Auctions: Phillips Bringing Three Mega Pateks to Its Spring Sales

We'll have further auction coverage in the coming weeks, but it's worth giving Phillips a bit more attention, as it continues to lead in year-over-year sales. The auction house sold a record total of over $290 million in watches last year and has had five years in a row with over $200 million in sales. The market has shifted (I'd argue at least twice) in the past few years, but despite the growing F.P. Journe, independent, and pocket watch (yes, pocket watch) markets, the top lots for Phillips continue to be Patek Philippe. At each of their spring auctions, Phillips is selling an important Patek to headline the sale, and each is the kind of watch that could be the pinnacle of the world's top collections. Normal caveat here: I haven't seen these watches in person yet, and anyone considering bidding should make sure to check any watch in person if at all possible. A Patek Philippe ref. 2523 Two-Crown World Time With Cloissoné Enamel South America Dial First, we have the star of Geneva, to be sold on May 9: the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 two-crown world time with cloisonné enamel map of South America, from 1953. Aside from rare variants of 2499s or 1518s (and a few repeaters), these two-crown watches, with their incredible, angular lugs and giant open canvas at the center of the dial, have become the holiest of Holy Grails for many collectors. They are rare enough to be hunted and coveted, but there are also enough out there to be studied, understood, and codified. Too rare o...

Watches & Wonders: Frederique Constant Offers a Smart Update to their Classic Worldtimer Manufacture Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Offers Apr 22, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Frederique Constant Offers a Smart Update to their Classic Worldtimer Manufacture

Frederique Constant has built themselves a nice little niche delivering complicated watches at relatively affordable and impressive price points. While their perpetual calendar is probably the most impressive in terms of straight up value (somehow it still comes in under $10,000, even after years of rising prices throughout the sector) it’s the Worldtimer Manufacture that is likely their true signature. It’s a genuinely accessible complication that, at the time it was introduced, was novel in a watch well under the five figure mark.  Over the years there have been a number of variants introduced, but little has changed as far as the actual execution of the watch. That changes with the introduction of a trio of new worldtimers, all sporting the new manufacture movement, designated FC-719. The new caliber allows two nagging issues to be addressed: case size and dial clutter.  If you’re familiar with Frederique Constant’s Worldtimer Manufacture, you’ve likely already noticed that the large subdial at 6:00 displaying the date has been completely removed. A no-date worldtimer is a big change, but there’s no denying that the dial is significantly cleaner without the date. It allows the dial motif, a representation of a globe, common enough on these watches, to fully stand on its own. Dial options for this refreshed worldtimer include a limited diamond set version, a version on a strap with iridescent blue ocean waters, and a bracelet version with a more matte blue ...

WWG 26: One for the ladies, Kayla picks of her favourites from the new releases Deployant
Apr 22, 2026

WWG 26: One for the ladies, Kayla picks of her favourites from the new releases

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Editor’s note: Our next Armchair Pick is from our first of two guest writers. We have Kayla Low who contributes her picks of new releases from this WWG26 for the ladies. Kayla attended one day at PalExpo and wandered around to view her favourites. WWG 26: One for the ladies, Kayla picks of her favourites [...] The post WWG 26: One for the ladies, Kayla picks of her favourites from the new releases appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

Parmigiani Celebrates 30 Years With Multiple New Releases Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier arrived armed Apr 17, 2026

Parmigiani Celebrates 30 Years With Multiple New Releases

This year, at Watches and Wonders 2026, Parmigiani Fleurier arrived armed with a host of new releases to celebrate 30 years as a brand. Unlike many watches from other marques, though, these pieces are not modernized renditions of prior watches. Instead, as we’ll see, they offer hand-finished dials and precious metals, aside from but also […] Visit Parmigiani Celebrates 30 Years With Multiple New Releases to read the full article.

Watches & Wonders: Hands-On Impressions of Two New Zenith G.F.J. Novelties Worn & Wound
Zenith G.F.J Novelties Why Apr 17, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Hands-On Impressions of Two New Zenith G.F.J. Novelties

Why is it that there are some watches we just kind of forget about? I think we’ve all experienced this right? We encounter a watch that really works, feels special, rave about to other collectors and, if you’re able, maybe even think about how you might acquire one (side note: that is definitely not the situation I find myself in with respect to the watches we’ll be discussing here).  For whatever reason, the Zenith G.F.J. found itself in that category for me. Last year, when I saw the first G.F.J., I think I probably verbalized to someone that it was the best thing I saw at Watches & Wonders 2025. I thought about it for weeks. I considered how it felt so much more handmade and specialized than any of the other new Zenith watches I’ve seen, which were mostly reminders that Zenith is a huge brand that needs to cast a wide net. And that’s the case again this year. The headline release for the brand this year is a new series of Chronomaster Sport references with skeleton dials. They are very nice watches, but tread familiar ground. We’ve seen countless iterations of the Chronomaster Sport at this point, and transitioning to skeleton dials after a period of time is part of the Zenith playbook.  The G.F.J. collection, by contrast, feels unpredictable and outside the bounds of the usual Zenith strategy. These are high end watches that take advantage of exotic materials and precious metals, and have more in common with many haute horlogerie indies, at least on the s...

WWG26: highlights from the new offerings from Chopard Deployant
Chopard DEPLOYANT - Apr 16, 2026

WWG26: highlights from the new offerings from Chopard

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors This year, Chopard’s WWG26 crop comprise of updates to the Alpine Eagle and L.U.C collection as well as the Happy Sport Happy Hearts and L’Heure du diamant for the ladies. Here is our commentary in italics and the release for our top two. WWG26: highlights from the new offerings from Chopard Commentary Alpine Eagle 41 [...] The post WWG26: highlights from the new offerings from Chopard appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

First Look – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar Apr 14, 2026

First Look – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar

Last year, Roger Dubuis released a nostalgic watch that paid homage to Mr Dubuis, the brand’s talented watchmaker and founder. Using a restored and remanufactured RD72 bi-retrograde perpetual calendar module (launched in 1999) combined with the automatic RD14 base calibre, the Hommage La Placide was presented in a compact and classically styled 38mm gold case, […]

A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia Annual Calendar Returns SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 14, 2026

A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia Annual Calendar Returns

A. Lange & Söhne has introduced the Saxonia Annual Calendar, the brand’s most compact annual calendar to date. Available in 18k white or pink gold, the Saxonia Annual Calendar plays to the strengths of Germany’s foremost watchmaker, combining a compact 36 mm case with an intuitive and legible ‘outsize date’ design reminiscent of the brand’s famed perpetual calendars. The new cal. L207.1 hints at future developments while incorporating refined details such as gold chatons around the going train jewels - a finishing touch that has been absent from the brand’s ‘entry-level’ automatic movements until now. Initial thoughts There’s been a palpable trend toward smaller watches in recent years - Lange’s 34 mm 1815 released last year was a major hit, and it seems like there’s more of a focus on dimensions and thickness than at any other time in the past decade or so. In this context, the Saxonia Annual Calendar should be well-received. At just 36 mm in diameter and under 10 mm thick, the watch is compact even by the standards of time-only watches. In fact, it’s the most compact annual calendar yet from Lange, and the small size of the dial makes the big date format especially convenient for those, like myself, who have trouble reading pointer dates at arm’s length. In fact, I’d argue the enhanced legibility and differentiated design of the big date makes the Saxonia Annual Calendar competitive with more complicated (but equally compact) perpetual ca...

The Uber-Lange 1 Gets the “Lumen” Treatment SJX Watches
Apr 14, 2026

The Uber-Lange 1 Gets the “Lumen” Treatment

A. Lange & Söhne turns once again to its greatest hits for its flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2026. The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” bestows the translucent, luminous treatment to the top-of-the-line Lange 1 in a 50-piece limited edition in platinum. Powered by the L225.1, an upgrade on the previous generation movement, the latest Lumen edition has a grey-tinted sapphire dial that reveals glow-in-the-dark elements, including the date discs and moon phase. Over the back, the edition is also set apart by a pair of steel cocks sporting engraving of stars. Initial thoughts The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” stands out as one of the most appealing Lumen models; I’d rank it up there along with the original Zeitwerk “Phantom” in terms of appeal. The Lumen treatment works best with lot of obvious luminous components, which is the case here. Flourishes like the luminous bases for each of the Roman hour numerals are a pleasing touch. The twin engraved steel cocks are especially noteworthy; the concept is classic Lange but the engraved star motif adds variety. That said, the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” scores highly, maybe even perfectly, in terms of intrinsic and tactile appeal. The technical accomplishment is also top class: the calendar is instantaneous, movement construction is sophisticated, and decoration is outstanding. But this arguably scores less well in terms of originality or creativity. The moveme...

SJX Podcast: Rolex Marks Oyster Centenary with Daytona and Day-Date SJX Watches
Rolex Marks Oyster Centenary Apr 14, 2026

SJX Podcast: Rolex Marks Oyster Centenary with Daytona and Day-Date

Episode 36 of the SJX Podcast comes straight from Watches & Wonders 2026. As ever, all eyes are focused on Rolex during the first hour of the event. SJX and Brandon unpack the brand’s new models, which feature new materials and a novel industrial approach to enamel dial production. We’ll be back soon with more live coverage of the industry’s biggest event. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

In-Depth – The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin, with a New In-House Calibre to Fight in the Holy Trinity Sports Watch Battle Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin Apr 14, 2026

In-Depth – The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin, with a New In-House Calibre to Fight in the Holy Trinity Sports Watch Battle

The new Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin 2500V is, without a doubt, one of Vacheron Constantin‘s most important releases of the year, not particularly for commercial reasons, knowing its low availability, but for credibility and relevance in a specific market, that of the high-end, ultra-thin integrated sports watch. Revealed at Watches and Wonders 2026, the model replaces […]

Vacheron Constantin’s Ultra-Thin Overseas Returns SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Ultra-Thin Overseas Returns Apr 13, 2026

Vacheron Constantin’s Ultra-Thin Overseas Returns

Following a belter of an anniversary year during which the brand launched, among other things, the world’s most complicated wristwatch and a quarter-ton astronomical clock, Vacheron Constantin (VC) kicks off Watches & Wonders with something more low-profile, both literally and figuratively - the Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin. While small in stature at just 7.35 mm thick, it’s what’s inside the counts - namely, an all-new micro-rotor calibre with 80 hours of power reserve and seemingly limitless potential. Initial thoughts The new Overseas Ultra-Thin is little different from the model that preceded it, though the ref. 2000V remained rare enough throughout its production run that the format still feels fresh. It also helps that despite the visual similarity, the ref. 2500V is a completely new watch inside and out, catapulting a model that arguably lagged behind its one obvious competitor into instant parity. The ref. 2500V is best understood from the inside out. Audemars Piguet replaced the well-loved historical cal. 2121 with its more modern cal. 7121 in 2022, and now it’s VC’s turn, being the last of the big three purveyors of mass-market fine watchmaking to replace its aging Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920-based movements with an in-house alternative. The reluctance to replace this venerable platform is understandable. What VC calls the cal. 1120 is one of the last movements of its generation still in use, and carries a historical weight missing from many moder...

TAG Heuer Comes Out Swinging With New Monaco Chronographs Fratello
TAG Heuer Comes Out Swinging Apr 13, 2026

TAG Heuer Comes Out Swinging With New Monaco Chronographs

For Watches and Wonders 2026, it’s clear that TAG Heuer has come out with a hot hand. The Monaco Chronograph is the subject of the brand’s attention, and wow, what a result! Today, we’ll provide an overview of five new models spanning two collections. From my perspective, these are the most significant updates in ages, […] Visit TAG Heuer Comes Out Swinging With New Monaco Chronographs to read the full article.

Introducing – The Sculptural Appeal of the New Hautlence Kubera Series 1 Monochrome
Hautlence Kubera Series 1 Hautlence Apr 13, 2026

Introducing – The Sculptural Appeal of the New Hautlence Kubera Series 1

Hautlence, the contemporary, independent Swiss watchmaking brand, has made its mark with unconventional time displays. Founded in Neuchâtel in 2004, it quickly stood out for turning time into a more theatrical experience, with the HL01 setting the tone through jumping hours and retrograde minutes. Returning to Watches & Wonders this year, Hautlence unveils a brand […]

Unique Rose-Dial Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” 3700 at Antiquorum SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” 3700 Apr 11, 2026

Unique Rose-Dial Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” 3700 at Antiquorum

One of the top lots at Antiquorum’s Geneva auction that happens in May 2026 is the hitherto unknown and likely unique Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3700/13. It is a striking combination of yellow gold for the case and bracelet, a diamond-set bezel, and a rose gold dial with brilliant-cut diamond indices. Ordinarily a Nautilus “Jumbo” at auction would not be especially intriguing, but this one stands out for a few reasons. For one, the aesthetic is peculiar but attractive. The combination of a pink dial with diamonds on a yellow gold case is a strange one, but the watch is unexpectedly appealing. Even the small diamonds on the bezel add to the appeal. Moreover, the watch comes from the family of the original owner – and even includes the original certificate. Pink on yellow Consigned to Antiquorum by the grandson of the first owner, this Nautilus “Jumbo” is the only one of its type known and most probably unique. According to Antiquorum, the only other ref. 3700 with a special dial is the prototype with a white dial that sold at Sotheby’s about a decade ago. Notably, the watch includes its original box and more crucially, the original certificate that states the dial is “or rose, index brillants”. The certificate reveals the watch was sold in 1984 at Somazzi, a retailer in Lugano. Also included is an invoice from Gübelin from a year for an additional link. The case bears the serial number “559215”, with “215” also engraved on the flank of the beze...

Sinn Introduces Four New Models Ahead Of Watches And Wonders: The 544, 544 RS, 308, And 936 S Fratello
Sinn Introduces Four New Models Apr 8, 2026

Sinn Introduces Four New Models Ahead Of Watches And Wonders: The 544, 544 RS, 308, And 936 S

Watches and Wonders 2026 kicks off next week, and this year marks Sinn’s first appearance at the fair. Likely to stir up excitement for this debut, the brand introduces four models ahead of the show. The lineup includes two versions of the 544, the limited 936 S chronograph, and the more unconventional 308 Hunting Watch. […] Visit Sinn Introduces Four New Models Ahead Of Watches And Wonders: The 544, 544 RS, 308, And 936 S to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: The New Longines Hydroconquest Vs. The Oris Aquis Date Fratello
Longines Hydroconquest Vs Apr 5, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: The New Longines Hydroconquest Vs. The Oris Aquis Date

Welcome to another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown! We hope you have your Sunday breakfast, a cup of coffee, and an open mind at hand because we need your opinion! Today, we’ll pit the latest Longines Hydroconquest against the Oris Aquis. This, then, is a battle of sub-€2,500 dive watches. Both watches come in different […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: The New Longines Hydroconquest Vs. The Oris Aquis Date to read the full article.

Hands-On: Maen Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin Worn & Wound
Maen Apr 3, 2026

Hands-On: Maen Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin

People are always asking us, “Why are watch reviews always so positive?” It’s a fair question, and definitely a nicer way of saying what I think is actually underneath it, which is “Are you a shill?” While I certainly wouldn’t dream of speaking for any website other than this one, I can say that at Worn & Wound, we review watches that are of interest to us, that we’re likely pre-disposed to liking. Positive reviews come from our enthusiasm not just for a specific watch, but for watches in general. We want to see what’s best in the hobby, and seek to elevate brands and watches that we think are doing interesting work, and that our readers will find of interest. I’d argue that’s not the posture of the average anonymous Instagram commenter, who might be more inclined to tear something down than lift it up.  But sometimes a watch comes across our desk from a brand we like that just doesn’t work, or that seemed more interesting in renders sent via email or DM than in the metal. And that brings us to the Maen Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin, a watch that on its surface seems like something that I should be really into, but leaves me a little cold when I hold it in hand and strap it on my wrist.  I’ll be upfront here and say at the outset that this is not a bad watch, objectively speaking. It’s not a failure in execution, or the product of shoddy workmanship. I think Maen probably wound up exactly where they wanted to be with the Grand Tonneau, and like other...

The Citizen Photon Caps Five Decades of Eco-Drive Innovation SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Apr 3, 2026

The Citizen Photon Caps Five Decades of Eco-Drive Innovation

Citizen continues to celebrate five decades of solar-powered watchmaking with the limited-edition Photon, a sleek titanium watch that combines the brand’s signature technologies, namely Eco-Drive and Super Titanium, in an attractive and affordable package. Initial thoughts In the age of low-cost micro-brands and connected smartwatches, it’s never been harder to stand out with a relatively simple quartz watch. Citizen, however, is more than up to the challenge, and is celebrating the 50th anniversary of its industry-leading Eco-Drive technology with a slate of new models that includes the Photon. The Photon embodies Citizen’s strengths, with a solar-powered quartz movement and durable Super Titanium case, which benefits from the brand’s leading position in the field of scratch-resistant surface coatings. The result is an affordable and appealing pair of integrated bracelet sport watches with a distinctive case shape and multi-layered dial. Unlimited energy Citizen didn’t invent the solar-powered watch - that honour goes to the Synchronar 2100 - but it quickly took the lead in bringing this technology to maturity. The Japanese titan has never looked back, and today licenses its category-leading Eco-Drive technology to brands like TAG Heuer. To generate electricity from light, the engineers at Citizen have developed a number of semi-opaque dial materials over the years. For the Photon, Citizen has opted for a multi-layer dial with overlapping slits, creating a d...

If You Missed Out on One of the Coolest Releases at British Watchmakers’ Day, Apiar Has You Covered with the Gen1.1 Night Tube Worn & Wound
Apr 2, 2026

If You Missed Out on One of the Coolest Releases at British Watchmakers’ Day, Apiar Has You Covered with the Gen1.1 Night Tube

Whenever I go to a watch event, whether that’s a local meetup, Watches & Wonders, or one of our own Windup fairs, my brain does that thing where upon leaving, I’m trying to figure out the MVP from that event. Not that the watches are in competition with one another – it’s just how I organize my thoughts, figuring out what I liked the most. Coming out of British Watchmakers’ Day last month, the clear MVP for me was the extremely limited Apiar Gen1.1 Underground. I reviewed an early version of this watch last year and was really impressed, and this limited edition (just three pieces!) had a London Underground inspired dial made by The Dial Artist himself that really won me over. I’m a bit of a public transportation nerd so this one called out to me in a strong way, and I admit that I left London last month with a twinge of regret that I didn’t pull the trigger on this watch when I had the chance. Luckily for at least some of us (but not me, I’m tapped out, really) Apiar has followed up the Gen1.1 Underground with a predictable but very welcome sequel, the Gen1.1 Night Tube. As you can probably gather from the name of the watch and the photos, this is effectively a blacked out version of the Underground, because people, of course, ride the subway at all hours of the night in London. This marks the first time Apiar has used a DLC coating on one of their watch cases. Aesthetically, it really shifts the focus to the dial, which I think takes on a brighter quality...

Hit Or Miss? What To Think About Studio Underd0g’s Revolutionary Strap Solutions? Fratello
Studio Underd0g Apr 1, 2026

Hit Or Miss? What To Think About Studio Underd0g’s Revolutionary Strap Solutions?

Geniuses are often misunderstood. Vincent van Gogh is a good example. During his lifetime, the now-much-revered painter sold, most likely, just one painting. Will designer Magnus Swann follow in Van Gogh’s footsteps? He’s the guy responsible for creating Studio Underd0g’s unique strap solutions. After a lengthy period of conceptualizing, he came up with The Triple […] Visit Hit Or Miss? What To Think About Studio Underd0g’s Revolutionary Strap Solutions? to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: Vintage Brands Worth Checking Out Fratello
Mar 31, 2026

Fratello On Air: Vintage Brands Worth Checking Out

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss underrated vintage brands that are worth a long look. We’ve had these types of chats before, but it’s always nice to see what we’ve missed. You’ll hear some familiar names today, as well as about some smaller companies that could be new […] Visit Fratello On Air: Vintage Brands Worth Checking Out to read the full article.

Omega’s New Constellation Observatory Collection Debuts, with a First for a Certified Chronometer Worn & Wound
Omega s New Constellation Observatory Mar 27, 2026

Omega’s New Constellation Observatory Collection Debuts, with a First for a Certified Chronometer

Omega pleased a lot of dress watch and vintage fans this week when they launched the new Constellation Observatory collection at their Swiss headquarters. Zach Weiss is on the ground in Bielle even as we speak getting hands-on with the new watches, and he’ll have a full hands on report with his own photography coming soon. For now, a quick rundown of the new collection, and why it’s a fairly major play for the brand.  The Constellation is a historic Omega collection that has changed a lot through the years, always remaining flexible with the current styles and trends of the day. This collection, though, is a direct shot at the hearts and minds of Omega purists, as its effectively a recreation of the original 1950s Constellation in its broad strokes. The cases and dials will be familiar to anyone who has collected or admired original Constellations, with highly angular cases and distinctive dogleg lug design.  That said, these are not one to one recreations of watches from the 1950s. The cases, on paper at least, are rather large for what most would agree is a riff on a classic dress watch. The diameter is 39.4mm, and case height is 12.23mm. The lug to lug span comes in at 47.2mm. So, not small by any means, but we’ll look forward to Zach’s impressions of how they actually wear soon enough.  As is typical with Omega these days, we have a wide variety of case material and dial options available. We get all three gold alloys that Omega likes to deploy (Sedna, Canop...