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The Business of Watches Podcast: Q & A Episode - Your Business Questions Answered By The Hodinkee Team Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Souscription Chronomètre à Résonance 6 days ago

The Business of Watches Podcast: Q & A Episode - Your Business Questions Answered By The Hodinkee Team

This week on The Business of Watches, we take your questions on the business of timekeeping. We're joined by a swath of the Hodinkee team, including Editor-in-Chief James Stacey, Senior Editor Mark Kauzlarich, and Hodinkee Editor TanTan Wang.  We're answering your questions and marking 30 episodes of BoW. You submitted some excellent questions, including how changes in 3D printing technology will impact watch movement manufacturing, whether watch brands consider enthusiasts' preferences in their design and release schedules, and what the future of multi-brand watch boutiques looks like.  There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversations. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This new show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn. Show Notes1:18 F.P. Journe Souscription Chronomètre à Résonance Achieves $13.9 Million – Becomes Fifth Most Expensive Wristwatch Ever Sold (Hodinkee)2:35 Kari Voutilainen 2:47 Marteau: The Heat Wave4:08 The Barrelhand Monolith Has Landed (Hodinkee) 11:45 Ming Polymesh (Hodinkee) 12:40 Seiko Watch Corporation President Akio Naito (The Business of Watches) 13:10 Peanuts Watches by Citizen (collectpeanuts.com) 15:03 Timex 15:50 We Criticize The Wrong Thing When We Attack ...

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Ulysse Nardin Debuts Freak X Second Generation SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Debuts Freak X Second 6 days ago

Ulysse Nardin Debuts Freak X Second Generation

The second-generation Ulysse Nardin (UN) Freak X proves that good things can come in small(er) packages, with an all-new micro-rotor calibre powering the Freak’s signature ‘flying carousel’ architecture. The new movement debuts in a smaller 41 mm steel case with an interchangeable strap system. Initial thoughts There’s a lot to like about the updated Freak X. It retains the wandering tourbillon-style architecture that UN describes as a flying carousel, powered by an all-new micro-rotor calibre that’s been upgraded with the brand’s DiamonSil escapement package. It’s also noticeably smaller than the outgoing model, while boasting superior water resistance thanks in part to the collection’s first screw-down crown. Strap options have been expanded thanks to an interchangeable strap system that includes a stainless steel bracelet. These upgrades come with a modest increase to retail pricing, which starts at US$41,200 — essentially the same price as one of the special edition versions of the first-generation Freak X. Some will mourn the ‘downgrade’ from titanium to steel, but that’s a relatively minor issue given the reduced case size, and furthermore the release of titanium options in the future seems all but guaranteed. Smaller but better When the Freak debuted 25 years ago, it shocked the industry with its novel construction, which integrated the entire going train and escapement into an enormous minutes hand. The Freak X keeps the overall look mostly ...

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Industry News – The EPHJ 2026, Where the Future of Watchmaking Takes Shape Behind The Scenes Monochrome
6 days ago

Industry News – The EPHJ 2026, Where the Future of Watchmaking Takes Shape Behind The Scenes

Every June, Geneva becomes the meeting point for the world of high precision. Held annually at Palexpo (June 16 to 19, for the 2026 edition), the EPHJ trade show brings together more than 20,000 visitors and over 800 exhibitors from the watchmaking, jewellery, microtechnology and medical technology sectors, making it the largest high-precision industry exhibition […]

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Enthusiast Spotlight: Tom Place Talks Stunt Work, Watches, Gear & Hamilton’s Khaki Field Mechanical 36 mm Worn & Wound
Hamilton s Khaki Field Mechanical 6 days ago

Enthusiast Spotlight: Tom Place Talks Stunt Work, Watches, Gear & Hamilton’s Khaki Field Mechanical 36 mm

For stuntman Tom Place, watches aren’t simply accessories. They’re tools with a purpose. They also serve as reminders of the people, stories, and qualities that have shaped his life and career. Those qualities of perseverance and passion are at the heart of Hamilton’s America 250 celebration, and you’ll have a chance to experience them firsthand […]

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Farer Introduces a Trio of Classic Racing Inspired Chronographs Worn & Wound
Casio nally advertise 6 days ago

Farer Introduces a Trio of Classic Racing Inspired Chronographs

Nothing beats the bold and brash hand-painted liveries of motorsports in the 1960s and 1970s, especially compared to the overstimulating and overcorporatized wraps of today’s racecars. No, liveries of old were meant to invoke speed and evoke a sense of romance and adventure—and yes, also to occasionally advertise a sponsor.  In celebration of those iconic liveries of the golden years of motorsport, British watchmaker Farer has unveiled a new trilogy of colorful chronographs. Each of the new models takes on a colorway seen on racetracks of yesteryear, while maintaining the motorsport-inspired design of their chronograph lineup. The new Racing Chronographs measure in at a slim 38.5mm in diameter and 13.4mm in thickness, making the stainless steel case comfortable on the wrist for long sessions behind the wheel. Each model features three subdials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, with hours, minutes, small seconds, and 30-minute and 12-hour counters. A bidirectional bezel with a ceramic insert wears a 12-hour scale and along with the hands and indexes, is filled with Super-LumiNova for legibility and visibility.  Inside, and visible through a flat sapphire crystal exhibition caseback, is a Sellita SW510M b Elaboré grade movement. Decorations include skeleton framework, perlage finishing, blued screws, and a custom engraved bridge with the Farer monogram just below center. A 63-hour power reserve ensures that setting the watch down between race days won’t be an issue. I’ve ...

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Introducing – The Hanhart Thermosphere Limited Edition, a Purpose-Built Watch Inspired by Firefighting Operations Monochrome
Ming Jun 16, 2026

Introducing – The Hanhart Thermosphere Limited Edition, a Purpose-Built Watch Inspired by Firefighting Operations

German watchmaker Hanhart presents the new Thermosphere Limited Edition, a model created in partnership with the Baden-Württemberg State Firefighters Association. Based on the robust Aquasphere diving watch, the Thermosphere adapts the concept to an entirely different environment, replacing underwater timing with a system inspired by breathing apparatus monitors used in firefighting operations. Limited to 112 […]

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California Chronograph: J.N. Shapiro Unveils Infinity Series Radiant SJX Watches
Ming Jun 16, 2026

California Chronograph: J.N. Shapiro Unveils Infinity Series Radiant

California-based independent watchmaker J.N. Shapiro has unveiled the Infinity Series Radiant chronograph, the brand’s first complicated model available to the general public. Like the special order series released last year, the Radiant is built around a well-known La Joux-Perret monopusher calibre, but this time the watch features a tantalum case and choice of two dial configurations. Initial thoughts The Infinity Series is how it all started for J.N. Shapiro, and while the southern California-based watchmaker subsequently introduced the Resurgence — taking ‘made in America’ to the extreme — the Infinity Series makes use of third-party movements to make the brand’s inventive hand-turned guilloche dials more accessible. The Radiant chronograph takes after the 14-piece limited edition unveiled last year for the Boston-based ‘Escapement’ collector group. The Radiant is functionally identical, using the same La Joux-Perret cal. 5000 monopusher chronograph movement. But while the Escapement chronograph featured a movement that had been customised for fellow Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA) member Ming, the Radiant gets its own anthracite-coated livery complete with the brand’s ‘infinity weave’ logo. The movement itself has its own interesting backstory, but the handmade dials and weighty tantalum case do more to help justify the pricing of US$35,900. By the standards of mass market watchmaking this is a steep ask for a straightforward complication,...

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J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Radiant, a Monopusher Chronograph and an Expansion of their Infinity Series Worn & Wound
Bremont Jun 16, 2026

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Radiant, a Monopusher Chronograph and an Expansion of their Infinity Series

It’s easy to think of J.N. Shapiro as a brand largely focused on a style of watchmaking from an earlier generation. But that’s a trap. While the design language is rooted in classicism and J.N. Shapiro prides itself on the highest level execution of traditional guilloche, the brand has also been open to experimenting with materials in a way that many other contemporary indies have embraced to great success in recent years. Their new watch, the Radiant, enters the Infinity Series with a host of exotic materials at its core, and the watch serves as a reminder that while J.N. Shapiro is capable of doing things in an old school way, and might lean into that at times, the brand is not opposed to taking a modern perspective on some of these old fashioned ideas.  J.N. Shapiro’s Southern California manufacture sits at the heart of the American aerospace industry, and that connection serves as a loose inspiration for the Radiant, a new monopusher chronograph that is a bit of a sequel to their first chrono, released just last year in a very small run for Escapement, a Boston area collector’s group. Watches that are linked to aerospace are nothing new, but usually watches in this genre are conceived as fit for an astronaut, or something along those lines (there’s been a glut of space-travel oriented watches just this year, from IWC, Bremont, and others). J.N. Shapiro takes a different approach, focusing on materials that are closely tied to the industry and have unique app...

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Introducing: J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series 'Radiant' Chronograph, In Two Varieties (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Jun 16, 2026

Introducing: J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series 'Radiant' Chronograph, In Two Varieties (Live Pics)

What We Know Time flies, and it’s been almost 10 months since J.N. Shapiro launched the brand’s first complication, a limited-run monopusher chronograph for a private group of collectors in the Boston area. It featured a salmon-and-black dial and a stainless-steel case, limited to 14 pieces. Now the concept is back, with the same movement, but with some arguable upgrades in how the entire watch is treated. The brand has tapped tantalum and zirconium as major parts of the watch's construction, materials used extensively in aerospace engineering for their special properties. "Our workshop is located in one of the largest aerospace manufacturing hubs in the world," says Shapiro in their press release. "Companies like SpaceX, Boeing, Northrop, and JPL are all nearby. This watch is a nod to that environment, using space-age metals and meteorite to reflect where we come from and what inspires us." The watch comes in two dial variants, both cased in 38mm-by-9.6mm (8.2mm without crystal) tantalum cases. The dark grey material, famously hard to machine, is incredibly heavy, giving the watch a lot of gravitas on the wrist. Photo courtesy J.N. Shapiro. The first dial, which is the most direct homage to the Californian tie with aerospace, features a Meteorite with a blued zirconium chapter ring and blued hands. The chapter ring is engraved with hour markers and Arabic numerals at 3, 6, and 9, plus a minute track, but no specific chronograph scale. The subsidiary dial counter has a...

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Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Is Back Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Jun 16, 2026

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Is Back

What We Know Vacheron just brought back its incredibly unique Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, and it's a welcome sight for dedicated collectors of the brand, along with general enthusiasts of unexpected yet innovative takes on complicated watchmaking. If you're not familiar with the original Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, launched back in 2019, the watch offered an incredibly novel solution to a problem often found within perpetual calendar watches. Let's be honest, though the entire appeal and genius of the perpetual calendar is for someone wearing one watch all day, every day, for the whole year, watches like these are most often owned by those with a large collection to begin with. A weekend for a perpetual calendar in a watch box or drawer would mean that the complication would need to be set again after winding, and so Vacheron introduced this perpetual calendar with a whopping 65-day power reserve. To achieve this, rather than putting in an unfeasibly large mainspring in the barrel, the Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar lives up to its name by offering a new system that allows for switching between two beat rates for the watch—a contemporary high-beat 5Hz frequency with a 4-day power reserve for normal timekeeping during wear, but a much slower 1.2Hz mode with that prolonged power reserve for the "Standby" phase. The Caliber 3610QP comprises two separate gear trains for the two regulating systems, with a series of differentials tha...

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Insight: A Look At The Fusee and Chain SJX Watches
Ming from Jun 16, 2026

Insight: A Look At The Fusee and Chain

The fusee and chain system is one of those terms in high horology parlance that instantly elevates the status of a given watch. And yet few appreciate the elegance and subtle complexities of this horological contraption that surprisingly predates the invention of the hairspring itself. The need for constant torque A high-performance oscillating system requires a somewhat constant power source in order to keep it swinging consistently. This issue relates to isochronism and the insufficiencies of real-world oscillators. For a watch, this means that its precision is, to a degree, dependent on how constant the torque reaching the escapement is. This is not as easy as one might think. The mainspring stores potential energy in its wound coils, which it then slowly feeds into the gear train as the barrel unwinds. Because of how the system is built, and due to physics-related constraints, the power coming from the mainspring barrel is all but constant. Ideally, the torque would be linearly decreasing — meaning that the slope of the barrel torque is directly proportional to the arming angle. Coiled mainspring inside a barrel. When a mainspring barrel is fully wound, the torque it feeds into the going train is maximal, sometimes causing the balance wheel to swing too wide and over-bank. As the mainspring unwinds, the torque stabilises to a steadily declining rate. But as the movement enters its last hours of power reserve, the torque from the barrel decreases considerably and more...

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Obituary: Philippe Stern, Pivotal Leader of Patek Philippe SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Philippe Stern who served Jun 15, 2026

Obituary: Philippe Stern, Pivotal Leader of Patek Philippe

Philippe Stern, who served as general director and later president of Patek Philippe from 1977 to 2009, died yesterday at the age of 88. Under his stewardship, the Geneva manufacture was transformed from a small, workshop-scattered operation into the global benchmark for fine watchmaking, a position it holds to this day. He was the third generation of the Stern family to lead the company. His grandfather Charles, alongside his brother Jean, had acquired Patek Philippe from insolvency in 1932 from their position as the firm’s trusted dial supplier. His father Henri had built the company’s modern international distribution network and established the Henri Stern Watch Agency in New York, laying the commercial foundations on which Philippe would build. Father and son, Henri and Philippe Stern. Image – Patek Philippe Philippe Stern became managing director in 1977, at the height of the quartz crisis. The timing could not have been more demanding. Swiss watch industry employment was collapsing, from roughly 90,000 workers to a fraction of that figure within a few years, as electronic timekeeping rendered the mechanical watch commercially marginal almost overnight. Many established manufacturers collapsed, merged, or abandoned mechanical production entirely. Stern’s response defined his presidency. He kept the tooling, retained his engineers, and committed Patek Philippe irrevocably to mechanical watchmaking at the precise moment the industry consensus ran in the opposit...

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“La Pilota” – A New Tudor Film Tells the Story Of A Record-Setting Aviator and Her Watches Hodinkee
Tudor Film Tells Jun 15, 2026

“La Pilota” – A New Tudor Film Tells the Story Of A Record-Setting Aviator and Her Watches

In Greek mythology, there is the well-known story of Icarus, a heady youth whose lofty aspirations send him flying on homemade wings of feathers and wax. In its cautionary denouement, Icarus flies too high and gets too close to the sun, melting the wax, sending him crashing back to Earth. If Carina Massone Negrone knew the story of Icarus, she would also likely have known that the greater the altitude, the danger is not the sun's heat but extreme cold and a lack of oxygen. And yet, in 1935, the Italian aviator set an altitude record in an open-cockpit piston-powered airplane that remains unbroken to this day. Tudor has just debuted a short documentary film about Negrone, called "La Pilota: The Daring Story of Marchesa Carina Massone Negrone", which covers the flying pioneer's remarkable life and the watches—Tudors, of course—that she wore. Carina Massone Negrone was a "marchesa," a noblewoman by her marriage to a marquise, and could have enjoyed a life of ease in her palazzo in Genova. But her adventurous spirit compelled her to pursue activities that might have seemed "unladylike" in 1930s Italy. She was an avid swimmer and skier and fished the Mediterranean for sharks. And in 1933, at the age of 22, she took flying lessons from an Italian fighter pilot and became the first woman to get her pilot's license from the Reale Unione Nazionale Aeronautica. Only a year later, she set an altitude record for a seaplane by flying to 5,544 meters. But she wasn't done yet—far f...

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Introducing – The New ArtyA Purity Tourbillon Sport Editions Monochrome
Jun 15, 2026

Introducing – The New ArtyA Purity Tourbillon Sport Editions

Artya is known for not shying away from creativity, boldness and boundary-pushing designs, and proves this once more with its latest release. Following earlier models like the Purity Tourbillon, Purity Stairway to Heaven and Purity Central Tourbillon housed in the brand’s signature sapphire cases, the Geneva-based manufacture now introduces the Purity Tourbillon Sport Edition, a limited […]

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Hands-On Review With The TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph TAG Heuer’s Jun 13, 2026

Hands-On Review With The TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph

TAG Heuer’s Monaco Evergraph may just be the best Monaco yet. A redesigned case, a new look dial, and of course, the new TH80 movement. We took it for a spin to see how it stacks up. What We Love: The new innovative TH80 movement Refined case makes for a better wearing experience Overall look is sporty and modern What We Don’t: The new clasp doesn’t allow for an exact fit on the wrist The watch does wear larger on the wrist visually, so check the sizing if you have smaller wrists The lack of versatility due to the Monaco design. it is a sports watch through and through Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 When TAG Heuer unveiled the Monaco Evergraph at Watches & Wonders 2026, it immediately became one of the show’s most talked-about releases. Why? Because it housed a completely new chronograph movement developed over several years by TAG Heuer Lab in collaboration with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. The Monaco itself is no stranger to innovation. Since its debut in 1969 as one of the world’s first automatic chronographs and one of the first waterproof square-cased watches, it has always had a special place in TAG Heuer’s collection. The design has never been universally loved, but that’s arguably part of its appeal. More than half a century later, it remains one of the most recognisable watch designs in the industry. Steve McQueen made the Monaco famous in Le Mans, but it wasn’t an instant hit,...

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Hands-on – The Revival of a Charming Chimer with the Angelus Tinkler 1958 Quarter Repeater Monochrome
Angelus Tinkler 1958 Quarter Repeater Jun 13, 2026

Hands-on – The Revival of a Charming Chimer with the Angelus Tinkler 1958 Quarter Repeater

Unveiled by Angelus at Watches & Wonders 2026, the Tinkler 1958 Quarter Repeater is a re-edition of the brand’s pioneering mid-century automatic, waterproof quarter repeater wristwatch, which was already a rarity in its day. Engaging sight, sound and touch, we’re going hands-on with the more luxurious, 15-piece limited edition of this charming chiming revival piece […]

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: Hamilton Goes on the Road, the Social Reckoning Trailer, and a New Kerchief from GiantMouse and Cantonement Worn & Wound
Hamilton Goes Jun 13, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Hamilton Goes on the Road, the Social Reckoning Trailer, and a New Kerchief from GiantMouse and Cantonement

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Hamilton 250th Anniversary Road Show Hamilton is undoubtedly proud of its American roots and has planned a whistle-stop tour of sorts to celebrate the United States’ 250th anniversary. Deemed The America 250 Roadshow, this multi-city activation is now underway with the first stop of the tour in Charleston, South Carolina before moving along to New York, then Washington D.C., before finally ending in Boston just in time for July 4th. During these events, attendees will be able to explore Hamilton’s collection of watches, learn more about the brand’s history, and take part in events co-hosted with local establishments. Of course, with an anniversary this big, Hamilton couldn’t pass up the chance to mark the occasion with something special. During the roadshow, visitors will also have access to the exclusive-edition America 250 Khaki Field Mechanical, a commemorative release available only during the 2026 semiquincentennial (isn’t that such a good trivia word?). The watch takes its cues from the military field watches that helped establish Hamilton’s reputation for precision and reliability, making it a fitting tribute to both the brand – and the nation’s ...

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