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A Collector’s Perspective: The Cartier Crash SJX Watches
Cartier Crash Sep 27, 2024

A Collector’s Perspective: The Cartier Crash

A fever dream - form that bent and curved the very idea of what a wristwatch could be. The Cartier Crash, born out of myth and mystery, is no conventional timepiece. As established notions of purpose and design in watchmaking, the Crash exists at the intersection of watchmaking and sculpture. To the uninitiated, the Crash may seem bizarre, wildly eccentric for the sake of it, but to those steeped in horology, it is an icon. For me, Crash was more than just an addition to my collection; it was the culmination of years of passion, patience, and persistence. The author and his special order Crash A product of Swinging Sixties London There are watches that tell time, and then there are watches that tell stories. The Crash belongs to the latter category. Beyond its appearance, the allure of the Crash also stems from its founding myths. Introduced in 1967 by Cartier London – the jeweller was then three separate companies in Paris, New York, and the British capital – the Crash is easily the most avant-garde watch design ever produced by Cartier. Its warped, melted form defies the conventional standards that most watches adhere to, making it as much an artistic statement as a timekeeper. An example of a vintage London Crash To truly appreciate the significance of the Cartier Crash, one must delve into its history, which is almost as enigmatic as the watch itself. One popular origin story is macabre: a Cartier client wearing a Baignoire Allongée was in a car crash that damag...

Vintage-Inspired Watch Designs - What Makes Them Work Or Not? Fratello
Jul 29, 2024

Vintage-Inspired Watch Designs - What Makes Them Work Or Not?

There’s no shortage of vintage-inspired watches in today’s market. With so many options, there are bound to be hits and misses. This article will be a personal take on the factors that attract me to a vintage-inspired watch design or do the complete opposite. I have found four main aspects that seem to frustrate me […] Visit Vintage-Inspired Watch Designs - What Makes Them Work Or Not? to read the full article.

Four of the Biggest Surprises from Chicago’s Windup Watch Fair Worn & Wound
Jul 25, 2024

Four of the Biggest Surprises from Chicago’s Windup Watch Fair

If you’ve never had the pleasure of attending a Windup Watch Fair in person, it’s hard to express the energy in the room or the unavoidable concentration of enthusiasm that greets you when you step through the doors. From the moment the show opens on Friday to the minute it closes on Sunday, every Windup is a marathon of excited conversation, new friends, and constant discovery - all bound by a vague sense of risk, a sense that (if you should stop and stare for a little too long) you may be walking out of Windup with something new tucked away in your bag and a slightly lighter wallet. Of course, for all their similarities, no two Windups are the same. The character of each host city plays a huge part in this - it’s hard to quantify the difference between a bay-side view in San Francisco in May and a downtown October day in New York City - but throw in different brands, different people, different venues, and (possibly most importantly) different watches and you’ll find that every Windup comes with the distinct chance to surprise. So, to that end, with a few days between me and the end of Windup Chicago 2024, I thought I would take a moment to fill you in on some of the watches and moments that surprised me at this summer’s hottest watch fair. NATO’s Don’t Need Holes It seems like a fitting place to start this endeavor would be with the only booth at Windup Chicago that got me to pull out my wallet not once, but twice. Like so many of us, I go absolutely...

Watch Scrolling: Chris Antzoulis Picks Five Fun Instagram Accounts by Community Oriented Creators Worn & Wound
Jul 16, 2024

Watch Scrolling: Chris Antzoulis Picks Five Fun Instagram Accounts by Community Oriented Creators

It’s been just about a year since we last scrolled. But we’re back, flicking fingers and double tapping with more fervor than ever before. This series started as a way to try and avoid the horrors of losing oneself in doom scrolling through the vastness of Instagram, and to instead serve up a bounty of accounts worthy of your hearts and comments.  As Worn & Wound has broadened its reach, so have we in the depth of our scrolling. While watches may make us drool, we also like to indulge in other hobbies, as well as EDC. Today, contributor Chris Antzoulis picks five IG accounts that he thinks are worth a follow.  @sophies.watch.world   View this profile on Instagram   Sophie Cassaro (@sophies.watch.world) • Instagram photos and videos The world of watches doesn’t have to be so serious all the time, and Sophie routinely invites us into her world, through her Instagram and YouTube account, to share a bit of her wacky humor. Yet, she still manages to deliver on the history of different watches and brands, and brings up relevant questions for us to ponder. Whether it’s asking her followers if they’ve considered neo-vintage quartz watches, or if we’ve paid attention to how different brands choose to market their watches, it’s clear that Sophie wants us to question not only what we enjoy about the watch community, but why we enjoy it, and how we can make it better. And because she delivers the message in a digestible and fun way, it’s easy to engage with her....

Fratelli Stories: Serving In The Kampfschwimmer With An Issued IWC Fratello
Porsche Design these titanium watches had Jul 8, 2024

Fratelli Stories: Serving In The Kampfschwimmer With An Issued IWC

In the 1980s, IWC introduced a series of highly specialized dive watches for the Kampfschwimmer, an elite German military dive unit. Made in conjunction with Porsche Design, these titanium watches had IWC technology and ingenuity behind them. As military-issued versions of the IWC Ocean 2000, they are now referred to as the “Ocean Bund” among […] Visit Fratelli Stories: Serving In The Kampfschwimmer With An Issued IWC to read the full article.

Introducing: The Spectacular Ressence Type 5 L - A Full-Lume-Dial Version Of This Stylish Dive Watch Fratello
Ressence Type 5 L - Jun 27, 2024

Introducing: The Spectacular Ressence Type 5 L - A Full-Lume-Dial Version Of This Stylish Dive Watch

I love Ressence, and I love classic night divers, so when I read that the Belgian brand would release a version of its Type 5 dive watch with a full-lume dial, I was all eyes and ears. But I was also curious to discover how Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens would make that work. My initial […] Visit Introducing: The Spectacular Ressence Type 5 L - A Full-Lume-Dial Version Of This Stylish Dive Watch to read the full article.

The IWC Porsche Design Ocean Watches Issued To The Bundeswehr Fratello
Porsche Design Ocean Watches Issued Jun 3, 2024

The IWC Porsche Design Ocean Watches Issued To The Bundeswehr

Military-issued watches are fascinating to learn about. In this article, I’ll share my chat with IWC’s historian about one such watch, the Porsche-designed Ocean Bund. The IWC Ocean Bund (short for Bundeswehr or “German Federal Armed Forces”) is one of those fascinating watches in history. It was a cutting-edge design at the time and an […] Visit The IWC Porsche Design Ocean Watches Issued To The Bundeswehr to read the full article.

A Conversation With A Neo-Vintage Breitling Collector Fratello
Breitling Collector I have talked Apr 28, 2024

A Conversation With A Neo-Vintage Breitling Collector

I have talked about hidden gems from the 1990s in several articles over the past year. Based on that coverage, I received a message from a Dutch watch collector who focuses on Breitling watches from the 1990s. Curious about his Breitling collection and motivation, we invited him to the Fratello office to listen to his […] Visit A Conversation With A Neo-Vintage Breitling Collector to read the full article.

Back to Basics with the Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Some Apr 10, 2024

Back to Basics with the Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome”

Some things are worth the wait. Though the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT will likely get the most press from the brand’s releases at this year’s Watches & Wonders event, the release of a stripped-down, monochromatic, black and silver, 41mm Black Bay is no less significant. Why? Well, it’s the most obvious colorway for a dive watch, which means it’s bound to be a classic. First launched in 2012, the 41mm Black Bay (just called “Black Bay”) is the watch that reestablished Tudor after some time in horological purgatory. Perfectly timed to ride the wave of vintage-inspired aesthetics that dominated for the decade hence, it showed that Tudor unliked their sister brand, Rolex, was willing to be a bit trendier and fun. Originally powered by ETA movements, it was the first to receive Tudor’s in-house caliber in 2016 and then underwent a third iteration in 2023 when it received the upgraded Master Chronometer certification (and technically a new caliber), as well as a slight redesign in the form of an updated handset, crown, and profile. With the introduction of the Black Bay 58, GMT, and 54 models, new versions of the Black Bay slowed down. Several different colors have been available, from the original burgundy bezel to a steel bezel with date to two-tone models. Yet, despite its tenure, the most obvious model never existed. The model most dive watches come in as a given: simple black-black bezel, black dial, white lume, white or silver markers. No gilt, no red, no fuss....

First Look – The New Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier has unveiled Apr 10, 2024

First Look – The New Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date

Putting jokes aside, Parmigiani Fleurier has unveiled a captivating addition to its Tonda PF Micro-Rotor collection: the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date. Featuring a Grain d’Orge Golden Siena dial devoid of a date function; this timepiece exudes a strikingly pure aesthetic bound to captivate enthusiasts. Measuring 40mm in diameter and 45.6mm lug-to-lug, with a thickness […]

Hands-On With The Glorious Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium - A Watch That Plays Clever Mind Games Fratello
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium - Mar 20, 2024

Hands-On With The Glorious Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium - A Watch That Plays Clever Mind Games

If you are not a fan of titanium watches, the Zenith Chronomaster Sport will confirm the number-one issue you might have with them. Straight out of the box, this new Chronomaster Sport feels super lightweight. If you want a watch to have some substantial heft, this is not the watch for you. But that’s the […] Visit Hands-On With The Glorious Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium - A Watch That Plays Clever Mind Games to read the full article.

[VIDEO] The Tudor Black Bay THUNDERDOME! Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay THUNDERDOME! It Feb 21, 2024

[VIDEO] The Tudor Black Bay THUNDERDOME!

It was bound to happen. You get enough Black Bays in a room together, and they’re going to fight it out until there’s only one diver standing. Zach Kazan, Zach Weiss, and Kat Shoulders are all big Tudor fans, and have gravitated toward various corners of the Black Bay universe over the last few years in the dive watch’s decade-plus history. In this video, sides are chosen, and a battle is waged to crown the best Black Bay.  Kat’s choice, the Black Bay 54, was the darling of last year’s Watches & Wonders festivities. An immediate hit for its slender, vintage inspired footprint, the 54 is effectively a recreation of a classic vintage Tudor with all the conveniences of a modern watch. The only question: is it too small? And does it cannibalize the Black Bay 58, a watch that was once at the top of the enthusiast food chain (and not too long ago) but now might be redundant for many.  Zach Weiss picked the Black Bay Pro, another Watches & Wonders release, this one from 2022. While we’re still not sure exactly what makes it “pro,” there’s no denying the utility of a GMT equipped diver. The Black Bay Pro borrows some of its key attributes from well known vintage Rolex references (that fixed steel 24 hour bezel is clearly meant to evoke old and new Explorer IIs) but is still very much its own thing. It’s a hard watch not to like, unless you insist on complicated and robust sports watches being thinner than one could reasonably expect for about $4,000. We addre...

Hands-On: the Tornek-Rayville TR Type 7B “Blakjak” Worn & Wound
Feb 14, 2024

Hands-On: the Tornek-Rayville TR Type 7B “Blakjak”

You’ve got two options. First, you can craft or find a device that can bend space and time so that you can travel back to an alternate universe in which the MIL-W-46374F Type 6 SANDY 660 was widely issued and battle-worn, and readily available. Second, you could just pay closer attention to what Tornek Rayville (under its current MKII Watch umbrella) is doing and snag a version that’s better than the slightly obscure original. Maybe I’ve been reading too much science fiction lately, but as fun as the first option sounds, the second option is probably the right move. Today, we’re looking at Tornek-Rayville’s take on a lesser-known mil-spec watch with a short-lived history of service but plenty of potential. The spec called out for a navigator-style watch with a rotating bezel, quartz movement with antimagnetic properties, water resistance, and a focus on legibility. The TR Type 7B “Blakjak” is a modern take on the post Gulf War-era watch that improves upon the spec while adding some premium touches that us watch collectors will appreciate. Let’s dig in and take a closer look at the latest and greatest from Tornek Rayville.  Case The first thing that struck me when unboxing the watch was the sheer size and weight of it. The 7B ships on a quick-release stainless steel bracelet and includes a nylon and rubber strap. I took it off the bracelet and popped it onto a nylon strap of my own for the initial evaluation. My wrist is pretty average, measuring in at 6.75...

Zenith Introduces The Brilliant Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Fratello
TAG Heuer Jan 29, 2024

Zenith Introduces The Brilliant Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar

These are exciting times at Zenith. With former Zenith CEO Julien Tornare moving on to TAG Heuer and new CEO Benoît de Clerck taking over, it will be interesting to see what is next for the brand. What Tornare and his creative team of Romain Marietta and Sébastien Gobert achieved was quite wonderful, meaning that […] Visit Zenith Introduces The Brilliant Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar to read the full article.

Introducing: The New Namica Okami - A Japanese Horological Wolf Fratello
Jan 28, 2024

Introducing: The New Namica Okami - A Japanese Horological Wolf

If you were not yet convinced that micro/independent brands are innovative, perhaps you will be after reading this article. And it is the innovative nature of small/young/unknown brands that pushes me to write about them again and again. There are some gems out there that I would love for you to get acquainted with. Granted, […] Visit Introducing: The New Namica Okami - A Japanese Horological Wolf to read the full article.

Montblanc Braves the Cold with their Latest 1858 Geosphere Worn & Wound
Montblanc Braves Jan 11, 2024

Montblanc Braves the Cold with their Latest 1858 Geosphere

In 2015 Montblanc launched the Villeret Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphere Vasco da Gama, an ultra-high-end Minerva based word timer, which featured southern and northern hemisphere displays. Later in 2018, they introduced a more affordable non-tourbillon version called the 1858 Geosphere, but this time the hemispheres were displayed on a vertical axis. Since then, there have been multiple different color combinations and materials, such as bronze and titanium, on bracelets, and even on a bund strap. New for 2024 is the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen South Pole Limited Edition.    This new 42mm x 12.8mm piece is crafted in lightweight titanium, with a blue aluminum bezel insert, which features green lumed cardinal points. The hour and minute hands, along with the numbers and markers also glow green. While the two domed hemisphere globes, together with the second time zone displayed at 9 o’clock glow blue. The dial features a sfumato iced blue glacier pattern, which must be seen in person to truly admire. It comes with a matching interchangeable titanium bracelet and a gray rope patterned textile strap. The neat thing about these watches is their caliber 29.25 movement, a combination of a Sellita SW300 base and a proprietary world-time module. The latter allows you to independently control the hour hand via the crown, as well as the second time zone via a hidden pusher at 10 o’clock, making it a perfect travel companion and explorer. The 0 Oxygen in the model name means there ...