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Business News: New Faces at LVMH Watches, with Frédéric Arnault Taking Charge SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Jan 5, 2024

Business News: New Faces at LVMH Watches, with Frédéric Arnault Taking Charge

LVMH has just made official the long expected management reshuffle at its watch and jewellery division, with Frédéric Arnault named chief executive of LVMH Watches. Taking over from Mr Arnault as chief executive of TAG Heuer is Julien Tornare, who previously had the same role at Zenith. And replacing Mr Tornare is Benoit de Clerck, who was formerly the chief commercial officer at Panerai. Effective from the start of 2024, the management reshuffle at LVMH will likely be the first of several such moves across the industry over the next 18 months resulting from long-serving bosses retiring and a slowing market. New faces and new directions? Mr Arnault takes on a newly-created role that marks the beginning of the LVMH Watch Division – watches and jewellery were previously grouped together – which might mean more activity from the luxury giant’s trio of watch brands. He will report to Stephane Bianchi, the head of the LVMH Watches & Jewelry Division that also includes Bulgari. Mr Bianchi was reputedly recruited by LVMH owner Bernard Arnault to mentor the junior Arnault, and the pair have risen through the ranks of LVMH in tandem. Though the watch division is one of the smallest in the LVMH stable, Frédéric Arnault brings clout to the job, by virtue of both his name and experience. With a technical and quantitive background – he has a degree in applied mathematics – Mr Arnault raised the level of technical and industrial capabilities at TAG Heuer. Amongst other thi...

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Industry News – Reshuffle at LVMH; Frédéric Arnault Named CEO of LVMH Watches, Julien Tornare CEO of TAG Heuer Monochrome
TAG Heuer Jan 5, 2024

Industry News – Reshuffle at LVMH; Frédéric Arnault Named CEO of LVMH Watches, Julien Tornare CEO of TAG Heuer

For some months now, we’ve heard and seen evidence that things were about to change at LVMH, a reshuffling strategy that industry insiders love to call the musical chairs of management. Things are now official as Julien Tornare, ex-CEO of Zenith, becomes CEO of TAG Heuer. He’s replaced in this role by Benoit de Clerck, […]

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The Universal Genève Polerouter Gets the Reference Treatment in a Gorgeous New Book Covering the Enormous Breadth of the Collection Worn & Wound
Universal Genève Dec 6, 2023

The Universal Genève Polerouter Gets the Reference Treatment in a Gorgeous New Book Covering the Enormous Breadth of the Collection

Over the last several years, something has happened to the humble Universal Geneve Polerouter. This watch, once a go-to recommendation for collector’s looking to get their feet wet in the world of vintage, has risen in stature, value, and overall name recognition as the watch market has expanded. As with any niche hobby that, over time, approaches the mainstream, hidden gems become less hidden. The Polerouter, while not a household name like the Speedmaster or Submariner, is not nearly as under the radar as it used to be.  While those of us who have been around this stuff for years might mourn the availability of great examples of the Polerouter on the cheap, it’s hard not to be happy that people are discovering and appreciating the watch. As a gateway to the hobby, and vintage specifically, it’s a collection that could lead a curious collector down any number of paths, each one rewarding in a different way. That’s because there are so many ways to approach the Polerouter: as a creation from the mind of the biggest name in the history of watch design, as an elegant sports watch that helped set a template for some of the most popular watches of the current era, and as an uncommon mechanical triumph. And, of course, it’s still a relatively accessible piece of a key part of watch history, and a great representation of Universal Geneve, a brand that exists today as a time capsule.  Perhaps one of the clearest signals that the Polerouter has crossed a threshold of s...

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[VIDEO] An In-depth Look at the Vortic Watch Company with R.T. Custer Worn & Wound
Nov 9, 2023

[VIDEO] An In-depth Look at the Vortic Watch Company with R.T. Custer

Vortic Watch Company has been a mainstay of the Windup Watch Fair since its earliest days. We had the opportunity to catch up with the CEO of Vortic, R.T. Custer, at the fair. He gives us something we’ve been craving-a truly in-depth explainer of their why and their how-with some amazing examples along the way. Vortic is a unique organization, hell-bent on bringing watchmaking back to the United States, but with a modern and innovative twist. If you’ve ever wondered what Vortic is all about, you now have the definitive info at your fingertips. This video breakdown their process step-by-step and provides before and after glimpse of how they “preserve American history one watch at a time.” If you want to learn even more about the Vortic Watch Company after watching this explainer or would like to start the process of ordering your own custom pocket watch conversion, please visit vorticwatches.com. The post [VIDEO] An In-depth Look at the Vortic Watch Company with R.T. Custer appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Citizen Brings an Advanced Moonphase Display to their Line of Eco-Drive Powered Atomic Timekeepers Worn & Wound
Citizen Brings Sep 28, 2023

Citizen Brings an Advanced Moonphase Display to their Line of Eco-Drive Powered Atomic Timekeepers

Celebrating 30 years since the release of Citizen’s first atomic timekeeping watch, the new Tsuki-yoma A-T shows the evolution of the brand’s technical prowess and Citizen’s penchant for looking skyward for inspiration. Named after the ancient Japanese moon god, the Tsuki-yomi collection lives up to its namesake. Informed by a mathematical formula developed by Citizen, this watch calculates the phase of the moon each day from signals received from multi-band radio transmitters. These signals then are interpreted at the 6 o’clock mark of the dial, adjusting as the natural phases of the move wax and wane throughout the month. Technically speaking, that’s not even the most impressive feature of this watch’s use of the Luna Program technology. The watch will also switch the moon phase display to match the view either from the Northern or Southern Hemisphere, leaving wearers to easily navigate from Australia to New Mexico without having to manually change the moon phases yourself.  The dial is finished with a world time subdial in 24 time zones, a perpetual calendar, and day-date functionality at 4 o’clock. The watch comes in three colorways, blue, silver, and red. Each is housed in a 43mm scratch-resistant Super Titanium case with a sapphire crystal, each durably made to be taken on your next adventure. All three references are powered by the atomic timekeeping movement, Eco-Drive 2 Cal. H874, which can run for upwards of 2.5 years on a full charge.  The Tsuki-...

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Andrew picks 3 new stealth wealth watches for 2023 Time+Tide
Sep 22, 2023

Andrew picks 3 new stealth wealth watches for 2023

Luxury is typically associated with lavishness and opulence – diamonds, gems, yellow gold and the like. Some people want everyone around them to know they are doing well, their wardrobe and accessories a clear tell of this. Others, however, prefer to fly under the radar with their watches – a phenomenon that’s recently gained traction … ContinuedThe post Andrew picks 3 new stealth wealth watches for 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Highlights: Sotheby’s Paris “Fine Watches” Online Auction SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw planetarium along Sep 16, 2023

Highlights: Sotheby’s Paris “Fine Watches” Online Auction

Sotheby’s Fine Watches has just opened online, marking the start of the fall auction season. Curated by the auctioneer’s Paris office led by Benoit Colson, the sale promises a diverse selection of vintage and contemporary watches from establishment names like Rolex and Breguet, along with a handful of independent watchmakers. While the complete catalogue boasts 160 lots, we have put together a selection of interesting highlights ranging from value-buy complications like a Breguet rattrapante chronograph to the unusual first-generation Christiaan Van Der Klaauw planetarium, along with a very nice vintage Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542. And for European buyers, Sotheby’s is notable for being the sole global auction house conducting watch auctions within the European Union – majority of such sales are in Geneva and London – which gives clients the chance to purchase watches without the hassle associated with import taxes. Fine Watches takes place online September 15-29. All the watches will be on show at the preview exhibition inside Sotheby’s Paris office located at 76 Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found on Sothebys.com. Lot 363: Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542 in yellow gold The Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542 was mostly in stainless steel with the distinctive “Pepsi” bezel. However, the present lot stands as out for being in yellow gold with a brown bezel and matching dial with nipple-shaped hour markers. Dating to 1958,...

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eBay Finds: Pulsar Computers, Baylor Chronographs, & Longines Olympian Worn & Wound
Longines Olympian eBay Finds Sep 7, 2023

eBay Finds: Pulsar Computers, Baylor Chronographs, & Longines Olympian

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Baylor Chronograph Got some real gems for our readers this week, starting off with a gorgeous vintage Baylor chronograph. The 40mm wide steel case has nice thick lugs, and even though it looks like it has been polished in the past, it still looks solid. The dial is a beauty, jet black with three white chronograph sub dials that are ringed in silver. Nice steel baton hour and minute hands with lime round out the bold look. The crown looks to be original and was signed, but has some wear the logo has worn off. This one is powered by the famous Valjoux 72, the same movement used in the Rolex Newman Daytona chronograph. And this watch will go for a LOT less than a Daytona would cost! Seller states it runs and works properly and was serviced about five years ago. View auction here. Bulova Sea King This vintage Bulova Sea King has a great looks with some unique touches. The case is yellow gold plate, with no wearthrough that I could see. The gold dial is super clean, with a nice radial brushed finish and it has the little Sea King whale logo which I just love. The case looks unpolished with sharp edges and a cool engine turned bezel like the Rolex Thunderbird. This one comes with th...

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The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos Time+Tide
HYT Aug 30, 2023

The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos

The HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a limited edition of 8 pieces Its tourbillon calibre, with a spiral balance inclined at 30 degrees, was developed with master watchmaker Eric Coudray Framing the tourbillon, distinctly coloured gems – fuchsia, blue-grey and yellow – rotate at different speeds around the dial I am rather comfortable in … ContinuedThe post The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 is horology over hype Time+Tide
Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 Aug 22, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 is horology over hype

Much of today’s focus in watches revolves around hype pieces, at least in the mainstream. Breguet, however, has zero concern for hype – their total focus and effort is devoted to horology in the traditional style of their namesake. Therefore they do not bend to trends, or cut corners. It is as if with everything … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 is horology over hype appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Tyson Fury’s new reality TV series looks set to be a watchspotter’s delight Time+Tide
Rolex if they managed Jul 24, 2023

Tyson Fury’s new reality TV series looks set to be a watchspotter’s delight

Tyson Fury has always had an eye for a nice watch. As Anthony Joshua once recalled, back when he was an amateur, Fury would go around London gyms looking for sparring partners and offering anyone his Rolex if they managed to knock him out. It’s a passion that has endured as he’s become one of … ContinuedThe post Tyson Fury’s new reality TV series looks set to be a watchspotter’s delight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Norqain Wild ONE Gets the Skeleton Treatment Worn & Wound
Norqain Wild ONE Gets Jul 20, 2023

The Norqain Wild ONE Gets the Skeleton Treatment

This one seems like it was bound to happen. When Norqain unveiled the Wild ONE last year and hailed it as a next-gen, materials focused sports watch, it seemed clear that we’d get some ultra modern dial executions down the line to match the tech in the case. I was a pretty big fan of the first batch of Wild ONEs, but if there was an element that seemed a little “off” to me it was the dial. The repeating Norqain logo motif just didn’t seem to match the visual tone and vibe of the rest of the watch. I couldn’t quite put my finger on what would make it better, but with the new skeletonized version that was recently unveiled, I think they have the Wild ONE heading in the right direction.  Right off the bat, I realize this might be a somewhat controversial take. When Blake went hands-on with the Wild ONE earlier this year, one of his chief gripes was legibility. That concern is not likely to be abated with a dial that’s perhaps even more of an eye-chart, but in my opinion it “fits” the spirit of the watch a little better. While Norqain is ostensibly selling these as adventure watches for all manner of outdoor activities, to me they feel more in line with stylish, contemporary headturners like the Zenith Defy, or even watches in the Royal Oak Offshore line. Capable, yes, but designed to be gawked at more than anything.  The new Wild ONE Skeleton comes in two variants. One with a burgundy NORTEQ case with gold dial accents, and the other with a black NORTEQ case...

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Rosenbusch Quest is a truly accessible integrated-bracelet sports watch Time+Tide
Jul 17, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Rosenbusch Quest is a truly accessible integrated-bracelet sports watch

We are bound to follow certain trends no matter which industry we look into. Whether it be fashion, cars, music and, for what concerns us the most, watches. In the past 10 years we went through an intense period during which micro and independent brands would release vintage-inspired dive watches. Then, more recently, GMTs and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Rosenbusch Quest is a truly accessible integrated-bracelet sports watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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How Australia fell in love with TAG Heuer Time+Tide
TAG Heuer It’s Jun 22, 2023

How Australia fell in love with TAG Heuer

It’s a grey August morning in Sydney and the city centre is quieter than normal due to the winter rain bouncing off the streets. Hardier shoppers cower beneath umbrellas as they scurry between stores, half-bent and grimacing at the weather. Yet inside the TAG Heuer Boutique on the corner of Pitt and Market Streets, there’s … ContinuedThe post How Australia fell in love with TAG Heuer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Thomas S. Worn & Wound
Seiko Alpinist SARB017 – $600 May 19, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Thomas S.

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Thomas S. brings us a capable trio that isn’t afraid to step off the well beaten path. There’s new stuff, hard to get stuff, and kinda (but not really) old stuff, all bound by a great sense of style and practicality. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  I’m a minimalist at heart. That doesn’t mean I always succeed. As far as watches are concerned, I certainly have more than three (though proudly less than ten). I’ve spent the last couple of years working towards attaining my own perfect three watch collection. These watches are the core of what I take traveling, and are the most worn of all of my watches. I find it a well-rounded collection, if still leaning towards being sporty. As my collection grows (and shrinks) over the years, I anticipate these three watches remaining at the forefront of my collection. Seiko Alpinist SARB017 – $600 – $1000 The SARB017 was the first mechanical watch I ever bought myself. I picked it up just after Seiko quietly discontinued it, and was lucky enough to get it well under what they are selling for now, new or used. With the trusty and near-indestructible 6R15 caliber inside, the Seiko Alpinist SARB017 holds its own as a daily work watch beater. I should know, I wear it often when climbing and pruning trees as an arborist. The crown guards and second crown at 4 o’clock bely the A...

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eBay Finds: King Seiko, Rado Simplon, & More Full Kits Worn & Wound
Seiko Rado Simplon & More May 18, 2023

eBay Finds: King Seiko, Rado Simplon, & More Full Kits

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage King Seiko 45-7000 King Seikos were one of Seiko’s high end dress watch lines, and to this day they are still highly under-rated. This model, the 45-7000 is easily one of their best ever designs. A classic example of Seiko’s “Grammar of Design”, with bold flat planes and sharp edges on the stainless steel case. The clean silver dial with no date and the manual wind hi-beat movement make it nearly perfect. I can tell you from experience that this model is very difficult to find in excellent condition, having looked for one for about 10 years. Recently I found one from a seller in Singapore, otherwise I’d be buying this example myself! The case has been refinished, which I would usually avoid, but it was done by Lapinist who does simply stunning work and actually finishes the cases with the same Zaratsu technique as Seiko. This one also comes with a super cool see-through caseback (still has the original too), so you can see that beautiful movement! View auction here. Vintage CWC Chronograph Here we have a brilliant vintage military issue chronograph. This CWC two-register chrono has markings indicating it was issued to the British Royal Air Force. The large 39m wide a...

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Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime is the ultimate Complication from the ultimate complication-makers Time+Tide
Patek Philippe s Grandmaster Chime Apr 9, 2023

Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime is the ultimate Complication from the ultimate complication-makers

Patek Philippe’s most complicated wristwatch is updated with a subtle brown and gold colour scheme, and an outlandish gem-set variant The reversible case houses 20 complications, including two patented exclusives – a date repeater and alarm that sounds the programmed time 118 emeralds and 291 diamonds, both baguette-cut, total nearly 30 carats of gems on … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime is the ultimate Complication from the ultimate complication-makers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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eBay Finds: Iconic Chronographs & Jumping Hours Worn & Wound
Vulcain Chronograph Vulcain may be Feb 9, 2023

eBay Finds: Iconic Chronographs & Jumping Hours

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Bulova White Prince Jump Hour First up this week we have a really special one. This 1932 Bulova White Prince jump hour / direct read dress watch is truly rare, and this example is in superb condition. I used to collect these 1930’s Deco Bulovas and this has to be the nicest one I’ve ever seen. The hour, minute and seconds are shown on rotating discs through the viewports cut into the case. I mean, does it get any cooler than this?? The 26mm chrome plated case is in excellent condition and looks super sharp. Seller states the caliber 10AT movement has been serviced and runs well. The time discs look original and quite nice with some patina. These really don’t show up for sale all that often, especially in this condition. If this “jumps” out at you, don’t let it slip away. View auction here. Vintage Vulcain Chronograph Vulcain may be famous for their iconic alarm watches, but they also made a plethora of other models, including this simple classic two register chronograph. The silver dial is really clean and has nice big chono subdials. Large stick hands with lume lines in them make this one really easy to read. The case is chrome plated with a steel back, but there doesn’...

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eBay Finds: Electric Watches, Fat Lugs, & Vintage Formal Wear Worn & Wound
Bulova Ambassador Here’s Jan 12, 2023

eBay Finds: Electric Watches, Fat Lugs, & Vintage Formal Wear

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Bulova Ambassador Here’s a sweet vintage Bulova Ambassador, complete box and original strap. The steel case is 35mm wide and in great shape, with nice slim lugs and clear deeply engraved ‘Ballerina’ caseback logo. Gorgeous silver dial with simple steel stick markers and hands and a date window at 3 o’clock. The original acrylic crystal looks perfect and has the correct internal date magnifier window. This is front-loading case so no surprise that there is no photo of the movement. This beauty comes with the original Bulova strap, and maybe even the original Bulova buckle, although there is no photo of it and the seller doesn’t say. Boxes are included which is nice, although the seller states the inner box is damaged. View auction here. Eterna-Matic Centenaire This vintage Eterna-Matic Centenaire is one you don’t see too often, which is a shame as it’s a great looking watch. That said, here’s your chance at one! The 35mm steel case is simple with slim lugs like the Bulova above, with the biggest difference being the crown is neatly recessed into the case giving is a streamlined look. The dial is white with killer applied steel faceted arrow markers and the class...

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Cheap Bastard: The Stauer 1930 Dashtronic is a digital automatic watch you can have for just US$179 Time+Tide
Dec 17, 2022

Cheap Bastard: The Stauer 1930 Dashtronic is a digital automatic watch you can have for just US$179

Editor’s note: Whether David is a bastard is still up for debate, but the fact he is cheap is irrefutable. Kidding aside, David loves solid watches at lower price points and therefore is always on the hunt for lesser discussed hidden gems in the under A$500 category. His latest pick: The Stauer 1930 Dashtronic. Here at CB, … ContinuedThe post Cheap Bastard: The Stauer 1930 Dashtronic is a digital automatic watch you can have for just US$179 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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CHEAP BASTARD: The Timex Marlin Automatic 40mm affordably scratches the green itch Time+Tide
Timex Marlin Automatic 40mm affordably Dec 3, 2022

CHEAP BASTARD: The Timex Marlin Automatic 40mm affordably scratches the green itch

EDITOR’S NOTE: Whether David is a bastard is still up for debate, but the fact he is cheap is irrefutable. Kidding aside, David loves solid watches at lower price points and therefore is always on the hunt for lesser discussed hidden gems in the under A$500 category. His latest pick: The Timex Marlin Automatic 40mm Two apologies … ContinuedThe post CHEAP BASTARD: The Timex Marlin Automatic 40mm affordably scratches the green itch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Christie’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Nov 23, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Christie’s Hong Kong Auction

Having looked at some of the most fascinating pocket watches and clocks on offer at Christie’s Important Watches auction that happens soon in Hong Kong, we now turn to attention to the genre that many collectors are now pursuing, independent watchmaking. As expected, amongst the offerings going on the block are works from the big names like F.P. Journe, Richard Mille, and H. Moser & Cie. But beyond the usual suspects, the sale also encompasses hidden gems, like the highly complicated tourbillon perpetual calendar by Gerald Genta presented as a Cartier Pasha. The Important Watches auction (lots 2306-2523), including watches from The Triazza Collection, begins at 1 pm on November 27 – the catalogue is available here. It’s followed by the second session (lots 2201-2282) offering watches from The Champion Collection at 7 pm – see the full catalogue here. The fully-engraved Gerald Genta movement inside the Cartier Pasha Lot 2382: Cartier Pasha Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Considered one of the most successful watch designers of the 20th century – though his most influential designs were for Audemars Piguet and the Patek Philippe rather than his own – Gerald Genta was also responsible for some of the most complicated watches of the 1980s and 1990s when his namesake brand was at its peak. In fact, the Genta brand was so proficient at making highly complex watches that Cartier tapped Gerald Genta as a movement supplier for its top-of-the-line complications in the 19...

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