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President Bracelet

Three-link semi-circular Rolex bracelet introduced for the 1956 Day-Date; Crownclasp closure.

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 3: Bulgari’s Golden Serpent Time+Tide
Bulgari s Golden Serpent One Jan 21, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 3: Bulgari’s Golden Serpent

One of the key pieces in Bulgari’s recent resurgence, alongside the record-breaking 50+ award-winning Octo Finissimo, the Serpenti Tubogas represents the height of feminine elegance. Note the serpentine Tubogas bracelet that snakes sensuously around the wearer’s wrist. It is offered here in 18k yellow gold with a silver opaline dial. This watch has been generously … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 3: Bulgari’s Golden Serpent appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integral SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Jan 13, 2020

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integral

Launched in 2005, the Big Bang was the watch that reestablished Hublot as a major watch brand. Fifteen years on, the model gets its most major revamp to date with the launch of the Big Bang Integral. While the basic concept is simple – it’s a Big Bang with an integrated bracelet – the new watch is a substantial upgrade in construction and finishing. The case was redesigned to fit the new bracelet, but also to accommodate a higher level of finishing. The Big Bang Integral King Gold Upgraded inside and out Most of the case edges, and also the pushers, have polished bevelling that contrasts with the brushed finishing on the top surfaces. The alternating surface finish continues onto the bracelet links, which are also facetted in profile. At the same time, the case construction has been improved in substance. Though the new case retains the traditional “sandwich” construction of the Big Bang, the filling of the “sandwich” is no longer resin, but is instead the same material as the front and back plates of the case. The only remaining resin bits are the resin lugs, or “ears”, on each side of the bezel at three and nine o’clock, the fundamental design feature of Hublot that was inspired by a ship’s porthole (hublot is porthole in French). The Big Bang Integral in titanium The All Black The new Big Bang is available in titanium or 18k King Gold as regular production models, and also the 500-piece limited edition Big Bang Integral All Black. Like its namesake...

Bulgari Introduces the Octo Finissimo Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic SJX Watches
Bulgari Introduces Jan 13, 2020

Bulgari Introduces the Octo Finissimo Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic

Unveiled alongside the new variants of the Octo Finissimo in gold or steel, the Octo Finissimo Automatic Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic is another take on the all-ceramic model launched last year. While last year’s watch had a uniformly matte finish on the case and bracelet, the new ceramic Octo Finissimo has alternating sandblasted and polished surfaces, giving it a little bit more life, with the polished bits catching the light just right. The all-black look is made a little bit more interesting with the varied surface finish, but retains the extreme sleekness of the original ceramic Octo. Like the case, the dial is monochromatic, but made legible, to a degree, with different surface finishes. The dial itself has a matte, frosted surface, while the markings and hands have a glossy finish. The dimensions of the new ceramic Octo remain unchanged from the earlier model, at 40 mm wide and 5.5 mm high. Inside is the BVL138 movement found across the Octo Finissimo Automatic model range. Key facts and price Octo Finissimo Automatic Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic Ref. 103368 Case diameter: 40 mm Height: 5.5 mm Material: Black ceramic Water resistance: 30 m Movement: BVL138 Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz) Winding: Automatic Power reserve: 60 hours Strap: Black ceramic bracelet Availability: At both retailers and boutiques Price: US$15,600, or 22,000 Singapore dollars For more, visit Bulgari.com.  

Casio Introduces the G-Shock “Full Titanium” Camouflage SJX Watches
Casio Introduces Nov 25, 2019

Casio Introduces the G-Shock “Full Titanium” Camouflage

Just a few months after the G-Shock 5000-series in titanium was unveiled, Casio has announced the G-Shock GMW-B5000TCM-1, which is essentially the same but with an unusual, laser-engraved camouflage pattern on the case and bracelet. The pattern is achieved by varying the size of the pixels that make up the camouflage motif; three different pixel sizes are engraved to create shading of the camouflage. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard titanium model, which means a sapphire crystal, black screen and gold accents. The case is in lightweight titanium case and bracelet – coated in black diamond-like carbon (DLC) – weighing just 110g in total. (Editor’s note: I handled one just last week and it’s a cool-looking watch that light on the wrist, but the price is pretty steep for what it is, though it’s probably worth the premium just for the cool factor.) Also announced at the same time is the G-Shock MTG-B1000DCM-1A, which has the same engraved camouflage pattern, except on the steel case and bracelet that have a black ion-plated (IP) coating. G-Shock MTG-B1000DCM-1A Key facts and price G-Shock “Full Titanium” in camouflage print Ref. GMW-B5000TCM-1JR Diameter: 43.2mm Height: 13mm Material: Titanium engraved with camouflage pattern and coated with DLC Water resistance: 200m Movement: Electronic Functions: Multi-function electronic with Bluetooth connectivity Winding: Solar-powered Power reserve: 22 months Strap: Titanium bracelet Limited edit...

Bulgari Introduces the Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Edition SJX Watches
Bulgari Introduces Nov 23, 2019

Bulgari Introduces the Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Edition

Characterised by its sleek, modernist form, the Octo Finissimo Automatic was introduced only in 2017 but is arguably the most successful new design in the luxury sports watch category. Its architectural case and bracelet has now been melded with a dial conceived by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, resulting in the most intriguing iteration of the watch to date – the Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Edition. Born in 1941, Tadao Ando is a self-taught architect whose minimalist yet monumental buildings demonstrate his mastery of concrete, geometry and light. Winner of the 1995 Pritzker Prize, Mr Ando’s notable works include the Church of the Light in Osaka; 21_21 Design Sight, a design museum in Tokyo; and most recently a lavender-planted hilltop shrine containing a giant Buddha in Hokkaido. While much of his work is located in his home country, he is also famed for several international projects, including the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth in Texas and 152 Elizabeth, a residential tower in New York City as well as the Cerro Pelon Ranch in New Mexico designed for designer Tom Ford. In the Octo Finissimo Automatic, he relies on simple geometry to create an unusually distinctive dial, with a spiral motif that emanates from the seconds hand, creating the effect of a wave rippling across the dial. Though the pattern is remarkably simple – it is printed in black lacquer on the dial – the effect is striking, especially when contrasted against the harsh, futuristic lines of the c...

Chopard Alpine Eagle: A Cool – And Ethical – Sports Casual Watch Quill & Pad
Chopard Alpine Eagle Nov 21, 2019

Chopard Alpine Eagle: A Cool – And Ethical – Sports Casual Watch

Stainless steel case, integrated bracelet in the same material, manufacture movement, and a blue dial: these are the ingredients for today's watches that people are willing to spend a significant premium to obtain. For many, this was also the first thought that went through heads when Chopard recently launched its new blue-dial, stainless steel, sporty watch, the Alpine Eagle. Martin Green looks beyond that pretty blue face after wearing it for a week and gives us his thoughts.

Hands-On: Chanel J12 The Inseparables “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Richard Mille MB&F; Nov 8, 2019

Hands-On: Chanel J12 The Inseparables “Only Watch”

To mark the 20th anniversary of the J12 this year, Chanel gave its signature timepiece a microscopic yet significant makeover, both inside and out, while preserving the distinct identity that has contributed to the watch’s two-decade success. For Only Watch 2019, the brand created J12 The Inseparables – the very first examples of the new-generation J12 to roll off the line, distinguished by a unique case and bracelet finish. And the pair also happen to be one of the most affordable lots in the auction. The brand has approached these unique iterations in the same manner it approached the revamp – with subtlety and restraint. The pair of watches are both rendered in smooth, matte ceramic, with a tone-on-tone dial. And both are equipped with a special black-coated execution of the new Caliber 12.1 produced by Kenissi, the movement maker that is part owned by Chanel. Matte finish The most apparent difference between the Only Watch pair and the standard version is the matte finish of the ceramic case and bracelet; the standard models have a glossy, polished finish. While the J12 is primarily a women’s watch, especially in this smallish size, the finish of the Only Watch editions come across as more masculine – and also more refined and discreet. And as it always has been, the case measures 38mm. It is made entirely in-house by the brand, thanks to its ownership of G&F; Chatelain, a reputed case and buckle manufacture, whose clients include Richard Mille, MB&F; and Bel...

Minase Introduces the Divido with Dégradé Dial SJX Watches
Minase Nov 2, 2019

Minase Introduces the Divido with Dégradé Dial

Having been established by Kyowa Co., Ltd, a precision toolmaker that also produces watch cases and bracelets, Minase is a brand that excels in, well, cases and bracelets. Its specialty is the high degree of surface finishing of the case and bracelet using the Zaratsu, or Sallaz, polishing technique that creates a remarkably flat, mirrored surface. Minase just gave its flagship Divido a new dégradé dial, which has a dark grey finish that darkens to black around the edges. Though similar looking dials are offered by Swiss watchmakers, and sometimes known as fumè or smoked dials, the new Divido dial is distinctly Japanese. Inspired by Japanese sumi-e paintings – that rely on different concentrations of black ink for shading and depth – the dégradé dial starts as a copper disc that is the hand-painted with several layers of black Japanese lacquer, each layer with a different concentration of black, creating the graduated finish and leaving each dial unique. The dégradé lacquer dial costs about 10% more than the standard model, which is reasonable. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard Divido, which is to say extremely sharply finished. All components of the case and bracelet are produced and finished in house. Every surface of the case is finished, with contrasting brushed and polished surfaces employed throughout. Even the folding clasp sports with a mix of surfaces finishes. The polished surfaces are finished with the Zaratsu technique – that...

RECOMMENDED READING: An interview with Daryn Schnipper Time+Tide
Oct 26, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: An interview with Daryn Schnipper

A Collected Man recently interviewed Daryn Schnipper, and if you don’t know who she is … you really should. Schnipper has been working at Sotheby’s in New York since 1980, first as a watch expert, and now as Senior Vice President of the auction house and Chairman of the International Watch Division. What’s more, Schnipper … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: An interview with Daryn Schnipper appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Steel. Sports. Lange. Meet the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 24, 2019

Steel. Sports. Lange. Meet the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus

What are the most talked-about watches of 2019? Depends who you ask, obviously, but in a sizeable part of Planet Watch-Nut the answer is “luxury steel sports watch on integrated bracelet” – although not necessarily for good reasons (unless you count over-hype and over-pricing as good). During the past couple of weeks, in another part … ContinuedThe post Steel. Sports. Lange. Meet the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Oct 3, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked

Audemars Piguet have once again stunned everyone with their latest full-ceramic piece of timekeeping wonderment – the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked. Showcasing the Swiss marque’s ceramic prowess, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar’s 41mm black ceramic case and conforming bracelet are finished to exquisite detail, and feature both brushed and polished elements. And … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Klo & Co. Alpesailer SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Laureato. While Oct 3, 2019

Introducing the Klo & Co. Alpesailer

Having made its debut two years ago with a dual-dial watch that combined an automatic and quartz movement, Klo & Co. is an unusual “microbrand”, having been started by a trio of young Filipino watch enthusiasts. The Manila-based brand has just unveiled the Alpesailer, a steel sports watch with an internal rotating bezel and an integrated bracelet. Head-on, the Alpesailer clearly derived from Gerald Genta’s famous octagonal design – think of it as a “Super Compressor” style homage to the Royal Oak. That being said, the bezel is actually brushed and round on top, with a polished octagonal base, bringing to mind the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. While the watch wins no prizes for ingenious design, it’s well spec’ed and only US$400. Depth rated to 100m, the case measures 41mm wide and 12.5mm in height. It features a “Super Compressor” style design with an internal rotating bezel and twin crowns – one for winding and setting, the other for rotating the bezel. However, like most modern watches inspired by actual Super Compressor dive watches from the 1960s, this does not have the same, Super Compressor sealing technology pioneered by case maker Ervin Piquerez, which relied on a spring-loaded back that press against the case as external water pressure increased. While the twin-crown design remains attractive even today, advancements in the fabrication of cases, crystals and gaskets have made such sealing technology superfluous in a modern watch. The A...

VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Chopard Alpine Eagle, a super in-depth breakdown of 2019’s most controversial watch Time+Tide
Chopard Alpine Eagle Oct 2, 2019

VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Chopard Alpine Eagle, a super in-depth breakdown of 2019’s most controversial watch

This week, the Chopard Alpine Eagle was released, marking a brand new collection from Chopard, their first in decades. It revives the design of their first ever sports watch, and the brand’s first ever steel watch. Based on the St. Moritz from 1980, the Alpine Eagle features the same stainless steel case and integrated bracelet, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Chopard Alpine Eagle, a super in-depth breakdown of 2019’s most controversial watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Interview: Patek Philippe Museum Curator Dr Peter Friess on Restoration SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum Curator Dr Peter Oct 1, 2019

Interview: Patek Philippe Museum Curator Dr Peter Friess on Restoration

The epic Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 was massive not just in scale and numbers, but also in the Patek Philippe executives who travelled halfway across the world from Geneva to Singapore just for the event. All of the company’s top management is the town for the event, including president Thierry Stern, chief executive Claude Peny, and commercial director Jerome Pernici. But perhaps the most interesting personality for a hardcore watch geek is Dr Peter Friess, curator of the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. A studied man who’s spent his life in museums and cultural institutions, Dr Friess is an art historian by training but also a true horologist. He’s the sort of guy who gets deeply excited over the “new old stock” 369-year old Cremsdorff pocket watch the museum recently acquired, and is familiar with the catgut used in 16th century chain and fusee mechanisms. Dr Peter Friess at the Singapore exhibition, with a portrait of Antoine Norbert de Patek behind him The first ever Patek Philippe wristwatch; importantly, it was not conceived as a bangle with a pendant watch movement bolted on, instead it is a timepiece for the wrist Unsurprisingly, the German native is also a professional watch- and clockmaker. Dr Friess joined the Patek Philippe Musuem as Director and Curator exactly seven years ago. Before that, he was President of the Tech Museum of Innovation in California, as well as a curator at the Smithsonian where he put tog...

Looking back at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Editor’s Sep 29, 2019

Looking back at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph

Editor’s note: Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak is unquestionably one of the most important wristwatches of all time and it is steeped in history for so many reasons. For a start, the unique aesthetics of the now iconic watch and integrated bracelet were designed by the doyen of horological design, Gérald Genta, in less than 24 hours. … ContinuedThe post Looking back at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

G-Shock Introduces the 5000 Series in Full Titanium SJX Watches
Casio debuted Sep 19, 2019

G-Shock Introduces the 5000 Series in Full Titanium

A year after Casio debuted the G-Shock “Full Metal” in stainless steel with a matching bracelet – and the whopper in solid 18k yellow gold – it has announced the G-Shock 5000 Series in titanium. The new launch is not a limited edition per se, but will only be produced for a limited time. Like last year’s “Full Metal” edition, the G-Shock GMW-B5000TB takes its cues from the original G-Shock DW5000 of 1983, but in matte black titanium with gold accents. But more intriguingly, the titanium case and bracelet are coated with diamond-like carbon (DLC) that has a granular finish meant to mimic the look of the rubber case of the standard G-Shock. The use of titanium means the new G-Shock is significantly lighter than the steel equivalent, weighing just 110g – a third less than the G-Shock “Full Metal”. And the G-Shock in titanium has a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, an upgrade over the mineral glass found on the steel version. Function-wise the G-Shock titanium edition is identical to the steel model. It’s solar-powered and incorporates a world time, stopwatch and alarm, as well as Bluetooth connectivity to a smartphone with the G-Shock app. An additional all-titanium G-Shock with a laser-engraved camouflage motif, the model GMW-B5000TCM-1, has been leaked online, but not yet announced officially. It will likely be launched later in the year. Key facts Diameter: 43.2mm Height: 13mm Material: Titanium with DLC coating Water resistance:...

Revisiting the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Sep 16, 2019

Revisiting the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Editor’s note: Recently, we talked about some sports watches with an integrated bracelet that could be great alternatives to the usual suspects from Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. Thing is, though, there’s another awesome timepiece from one member of the horological holy trinity that also fits the bill for an awesome integrated sports timepiece – … ContinuedThe post Revisiting the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Getting up to speed with the Chopard Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition Time+Tide
Chopard Mille Miglia 2019 Race Sep 12, 2019

Getting up to speed with the Chopard Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition

Unveiled at Baselworld earlier this year, the Chopard Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition celebrates the Swiss watch brand’s illustrious 31-year relationship with Italy’s most storied road rally. Inspired by not just the event itself, but the classic automobiles that compete in the famous rally, the 2019 Race Edition represents the passion that Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele … ContinuedThe post Getting up to speed with the Chopard Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Doxa Introduces the Sub 200 T.Graph in Steel SJX Watches
Doxa Introduces Aug 15, 2019

Doxa Introduces the Sub 200 T.Graph in Steel

Most famous for making distinctively styled dive watches in the late 1960s and 1970s, Doxa produces pretty much the same watches today as annual limited editions. The latest is the Sub 200 T.Graph, a remake of a 1969 diver’s chronograph – the flagship model of its day and now a rare, sought-after watch. The watch was first reissued as a 50th anniversary commemorative edition with an 18k yellow gold case and bracelet at Baselworld 2019. Now the more sensible steel version has arrived, and is still faithful to the original in shape and style. Typical of 1970s design, the case is a chunky cushion shape and matched with a “beads of rice” bracelet. The dial is orange – reputedly easier to see underwater than black – with block-style markers and hands, also typical of 1970s watches. And all the luminous paint on the dial is faux vintage Super-Luminova in “old radium” colour, meant to replicate the look of the aged tritium on the vintage originals. And the bezel is Doxa’s own dual-scale bezel that has both the dive time in minutes and depth in metres, allowing for recording of time underwater without decompression stops. The movement inside is a “new old stock” Valjoux 7734, which is vintage and dates to the 1980s, but is not the same calibre as in the original. The original was powered by the Doxa cal. 287, a hand-wound movement that was a rebadged cal. 310-82 from Eberhard, a sister company of Doxa at the time. In its day, and still today, the cal. 7...