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SJX Podcast: A New Era for Independent Watchmaking SJX Watches
Ressence which has just unveiled Apr 10, 2026

SJX Podcast: A New Era for Independent Watchmaking

It’s been a promising year for independent watchmaking, and Watches & Wonders hasn’t even taken place yet. On episode 35 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss Rexhep Rexhepi’s first in-house chronograph bearing his own name. What Mr Rexhepi does, others often imitate, so it’s worth thinking about how the launch of this traditional-yet-novel chronograph will shape the future of the category. The conversation also turns to Ressence, which has just unveiled the Type 11 with its own in-house movement, and has done so at a fair price. Russian AHCI-member Anton Suhanov also joins the ranks of indies with their own calibres, installing a 15+ mm luminous balance wheel in his third wristwatch. And that’s not the only Russian watch boasting unusual specs - Konstantin Chaykin revealed the series production version of his ThinKing, the thinnest watch ever at just 1.65 mm thick, complete with double ‘mystery’ displays. New names also made their debuts recently, including Stéphane Pierre and Mathieu Cleguer, who has come up with a novel double-wheel escapement of his own design. These makers are illustrative of a broader trend in independent watchmaking, namely the engineer-led brand. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Why This Watch: the Seiko SBTE003 Worn & Wound
Seiko SBTE003 Today Apr 9, 2026

Why This Watch: the Seiko SBTE003

Today, a new series debuts on Worn & Wound. “Why This Watch?” focuses on a member of the watch enthusiast community and digs into their decision making process for why they’ve collected a particular watch. We all have reasons, justifications, and sometimes even purpose behind our collecting decisions, and this series aims to identify them through watches that might be a little unusual, off the beaten path, or special in some way to the owner.  We start the series with Steve Faiello, a longtime Worn & Wound reader and watch enthusiast, who recently picked up a special Seiko with a seriously underrated multi-function “dancing hands” movement that displays its current function directly on the dial (at 3:00, where you’d normally see the day display on almost any other Seiko) and is easily manipulated by the user. You can see Steve’s collection on Instagram here. What did you buy?  A Seiko SBTE003 with a 6M26-8050 quartz movement. Why this watch, specifically?  To me, watches are tools first and foremost. They have to be comfortable, legible, and accurate. I’ve always been fascinated by watches with complications, but I usually don’t like the cluttered dials, thicker cases, and finicky movements of complicated watches, so I haven’t owned many. The 6M26 movement hides a chronograph, timer, alarm, and annual calendar in a reasonably sized and fairly easy to use package thanks to the magic of quartz. Seiko offered this movement (and its relatives) in a varie...

Introducing – Lebois & Co Heritage Atelier Chronograph Bleu-sur-Blanc Enamel Monochrome
Apr 9, 2026

Introducing – Lebois & Co Heritage Atelier Chronograph Bleu-sur-Blanc Enamel

Following the enamel-dialled Coquille d’œuf, Dutch brand Lebois & Co expands its Atelier sub-collection with the Heritage Chronograph Bleu-sur-Blanc. The concept remains: take the established Heritage Chronograph format and upgrade it through traditional dial-making techniques.  The case is identical to previous Lebois & Co Atelier models. Made of stainless steel, it measures 39mm in diameter, […]

Introducing – The Moritz Grossmann Tremblage Gold, a Hand-Engraved Anniversary Edition in Precious Metal Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Apr 9, 2026

Introducing – The Moritz Grossmann Tremblage Gold, a Hand-Engraved Anniversary Edition in Precious Metal

Since its revival in 2008, the Moritz Grossmann manufacture has focused on making watches with traditional Saxon construction and meticulous hand-finishing, exemplifying the idea of Schönstes deutsches Handwerk. The Tremblage, introduced in 2021, quickly became one of its most expressive pieces, showcasing a rare hand-engraving technique applied to German silver dials. Now, for the 200th […]

Introducing – The Updated Hamilton Khaki Field King Collection Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Field King Collection Apr 9, 2026

Introducing – The Updated Hamilton Khaki Field King Collection

Hamilton is an American-born Swiss watch brand whose Khaki Field collection draws on its military heritage, featuring a clean, highly legible field watch design inspired by watches made for soldiers and outdoor use. Building on Hamilton’s transition from military supplier to civilian watchmaker, the new Khaki Field King is a slightly more refined, versatile model […]

Sinn Introduces the 544 and 544 RS Ahead of their First Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet technically independent Apr 8, 2026

Sinn Introduces the 544 and 544 RS Ahead of their First Watches & Wonders

Sinn makes their Watches & Wonders debut this year. It’s kind of a big deal, or should be, in our community, and honestly it’s not being talked about enough. Watches & Wonders is the premier trade show in our industry, but unlike Basel World (where Sinn was well represented before that show’s demise) it’s not a full representation of the watch industry. It’s selective, and focused primarily on luxury brands that are part of large luxury groups, and primarily Swiss luxury brands at that. This year’s show expands in a meaningful way with the addition not just of Sinn, but of Credor (a Japanese brand) and Audemars Piguet (technically independent, and inarguably one of the most important brands in our industry commercially). But Sinn feels like ours, they are an enthusiast staple through and through.  Sinn has announced a small series of novelties ahead of Watches & Wonders, and we’ll be bringing you coverage of all of them after we get some hands-on time with the watches next week. But today we’ll focus just for a moment on what is likely the most straightforward, tool oriented release of the bunch, and maybe of the entire Watches & Wonders event this year, the 544 and 544 RS. I’m not a huge fan of the “Go Anywhere, Do Anything” tag that often gets lumped in with watches like this, but that, I think, is truly what we are looking at here. The 544 is a completely new offering from the brand, but collectors will likely notice that the case seems derived fr...

Universal Geneve is Back – Here’s the New Polerouter Worn & Wound
Universal Genève Apr 8, 2026

Universal Geneve is Back – Here’s the New Polerouter

While the watch industry braces for Watches & Wonders next week and anticipates a flurry of new releases to discuss that will take us through the next several months of watch discourse, today is actually the day that many collectors and enthusiasts have been waiting for for years: the debut of new watches from Universal Geneve. When it was announced that the brand would be formally relaunched by Georges Kern back in December of 2023, speculation began immediately as to what we would eventually see. Little tidbits have come out in dribs and drabs over the last two years, but today the watch community finally gets a look at what Universal Geneve will be in the modern era, at least to start.  A few things are very apparent from the outset. This is a big swing on the part of Kern and others steering the ship at Universal. They could have gone small, and introduced a one or two references to reintroduce the brand to the community slowly, but instead they’ve come out o the gate with nearly 40 SKUs, with prices ranging from a relatively modest $14,000 all the way up to $320,000 for an elaborate jewelry focused Cabriolet (and that’s the only elaborate, jewelry focused piece). The other thing that’s clear is that the launch feels focused on the Polerouter, a Gerald Genta design that is likely the most well known watch under the broader Universal Geneve banner. It got the reference book treatment a few years back, and, once upon a time, was one of the most frequently recommen...

Jacob & Co.’s Godfather II is a Cinematic Sequel SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Apr 8, 2026

Jacob & Co.’s Godfather II is a Cinematic Sequel

Jacob & Co. revisits a cinema classic with the Godfather II. A sequel to the acclaimed and extravagant Opera Godfather, the new model grounds the movement architecture while doubling down on the musical complication.  Initial thoughts It is no secret that The Godfather trilogy is a personal favourite of jeweller and brand founder Jacob Arabo. He confessed his love for Francis Ford Coppola’s magnum opus when the Opera Godfather was first launched. A ticking music box, the timepiece played the famous Godfather Love Theme using a pin-barrel and comb system - a simple but reliable mechanism that sits at the heart of many music boxes.  With this second model inspired by Mr Coppola’s saga, Jacob & Co. doubled down on the music box feature, adding a second tune that can be played in addition to the iconic theme. The second melody is the Godfather Waltz and the wearer can chose between either melody at the push of a button. While Jacob & Co. made a name for itself with opulent demonstrations of extravagant gemsetting, the Godfather II is unusually restrained, dialing back the flamboyance of the Opera Godfather without losing its musical virtuosity. The Art Deco-inspired case is a considered departure for Jacob & Co., a brand not typically associated with restraint. It suits the watch well, and suggests the manufacture is capable of more range than its catalogue suggests. The Godfather II is beloved by critics for portraying a grittier, more brutal reality of organised cr...

Introducing – New Editions of the Union Glashütte Averin Chronograph Monochrome
TAG Heuer Monaco Since Apr 8, 2026

Introducing – New Editions of the Union Glashütte Averin Chronograph

Square chronographs are rare, and inevitably, any watch in this category gets compared with the iconic TAG Heuer Monaco. Since its debut in 2008, the Averin Chronograph by Union Glashütte has occupied similar territory, combining a bold, geometric case with a sporty chronograph display. Earlier versions looked to form their own identity and relied on […]

In Depth: The Horological Evolution of Jacob & Co. SJX Watches
Casio n Apr 8, 2026

In Depth: The Horological Evolution of Jacob & Co.

Since “Jacob and Jeweller” made its first foray into fine watchmaking two decades ago, Jacob & Co. has positioned itself as a master of maximalism in all its forms, both bejewelled and technical, with some of the brands’s most audacious creations free of gem-setting entirely. The story of Jacob & Co.’s rise as an independent watchmaker features a celebrated cast of constructors. While other brands focused on vertical integration, Jacob & Co. opted to become a patron of promising complication specialists and independent watchmakers, funding their visions while challenging them with its own. Now, 20 years on, Jacob & Co. has evolved into a major player in the ultra-high end watchmaking segment, and is one of the fastest growing brands in an otherwise downbeat market; according to the brand, its 2025 watch sales were close to CHF300 million at retail. The brand’s obvious success is due to both its astute commercial instincts, founder Jacob Arabo’s inimitable personality, and also its ability to bring technically demanding movements to market and iterate on them with remarkable regularity. The gongs of a minute repeating Astronomia, one of the line’s many flankers. Few brands have managed to build credibility in both jewellry and watchmaking simultaneously. On the occasion of the brand’s 40th anniversary, it’s worth looking at how Jacob & Co. has succeeded where others have failed. Chapter 1: The Quenttin Jacob & Co.’s first 20 years were somewhat quiet on...

Ressence Introduces First Proprietary Movement SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces First Proprietary Movement Apr 7, 2026

Ressence Introduces First Proprietary Movement

Independent watchmaker Ressence unveils the Type 11, powered by a proprietary movement for the first time. The trailblazer of oil-filled mechanical modules, Ressence has so far relied on third-party base movements to power its eccentric creations. The Belgium-based watchmaker has finally taken the next step and developed its own calibre, dubbed the Ressence-Werk RW-01.  Initial thoughts  Ressence watches are instantly recognisable for their inventive and minimalist way of telling the time, using the patented Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) to put a new spin on the classic time display. Using a clever arrangement of planetary gears powered by a base movement, Ressence has achieved an original functional design that remains unique to this day.  In terms of design, Ressence has an unmistakable, contemporary look, not unlike that of Apple. As a result, partnerships like those with industrial designer Marc Newson feel natural. The concept behind Ressence’s signature time display is the use of clear silicone-based oil which fills the hermetically sealed ROCS module to the crystal. The fluid medium cancels out total internal reflection, leading to the illusion that the turning disks sit right under the crystal itself. In this respect, Ressence dials can at times look like an OLED screen in a smartwatch. The Type 11 continues the signature streamlined minimalism of past Ressence models, but adopts a less complicated display. There are hours, minutes and seconds, arrange...

New: Louis Erard X Alain Silberstein – two additional references Deployant
Louis Erard X Alain Silberstein – Apr 7, 2026

New: Louis Erard X Alain Silberstein – two additional references

Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein continue one of modern watchmaking’s most distinctive collaborations with the Smile‑Day Blue and the Tourbillon Régulateur Blue. These two new models open the brand’s newly introduced Hall of Fame collection and reaffirm a shared philosophy that blends technical seriousness with joy, color, and personality.

News – The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2026 Exhibition is Back in Geneva, and Here are Some of the New Models Monochrome
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2026 Exhibition Apr 7, 2026

News – The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2026 Exhibition is Back in Geneva, and Here are Some of the New Models

Patek Philippe is set to captivate horology enthusiasts with its annual Rare Handcrafts exhibition, opening on April 18, 2026, at the brand’s historical Salons on Rue du Rhône in Geneva. Running through May 9, this event showcases 65 exceptional new creations – 23 dome table clocks, 10 pocket watches, and 32 wristwatches – blending centuries-old […]

Hands-On: the Wolbrook JetFlyer and the New Jeambrun PS6402 Automatic Chronograph Caliber Worn & Wound
Wolbrook Apr 6, 2026

Hands-On: the Wolbrook JetFlyer and the New Jeambrun PS6402 Automatic Chronograph Caliber

I’d like to think I am a bit of a movement nerd. Not in the sense of knowing all of the technical attributes (actually, I wish I knew more there), but rather about what movements are on the market from the major suppliers. Hand me a watch, even with a complication, and I can probably tell you what movement it has in a matter of seconds (assuming it’s mechanical) by the positioning of the hands, complications, rotor bearing, etc. So, last fall, when I was handed a prototype of a new chronograph by Wolbrook and, upon seeing the dial, realized I had no idea what movement it had, my interest was piqued. The watch was the Wolbrook Jetflyer, which I have since had the opportunity to spend more time with. An extension of the French brand’s proven line of tool dive watches based on vintage models, the Jetflyer is their first foray into mechanical chronographs. As the name suggests, the Jetflyer is not meant as a “dive” chronograph, but rather as a pilot’s, though that’s largely semantics, as there are a lot of overlaps in design language (and the WR is 100m). I’ll get back to the particulars of the design, because what really stands out is the movement. $845 Hands-On: the Wolbrook JetFlyer and the New Jeambrun PS6402 Automatic Chronograph Caliber Case Stainless Steel Movement Jeambrun PS 6402 Dial Mattte Black Lume X1 Super-Luminova Lens Domed Sapphire Strap Leather or Bracelet Water Resistance 100m Dimensions 38 x 46mm Thickness 14.3mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw-d...