Hodinkee
Gatherings: An Immersion Into The World Of Vintage With Vacheron Constantin
The maison unveils "Les Collectionneurs," a collection of restored timepieces dating from the 20th century.
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Auctions: A.-L. Breguet to F.P. Journe at Christie’s Geneva
Rare Watches in Geneva kicks off the spring auction season for Christie’s. Some of the highlights amongst the sale’s 183 lots illustrates the history and evolution of horology, most notably with timepieces by Abraham-Louis Breguet and Francois-Paul Journe. The notable F.P. Journe offerings include a Resonance pre-souscription and a Ruthenium full house, complete with numbered box. The standouts from Breguet include a pocket watch first owned by Pauline Bonaparte, Napoleon’s younger sister, an early striking carriage clock, and an intriguing Type XX precursor literally gone askew. F.P Journe Principally inspired by the work of A.-L. Breguet and Antide Janvier, Francois-Paul Journe’s landmark Chronomètre à Résonance was the first attempt at synchronised, coupled oscillators in a wristwatch. The first numbered 20 examples were reserved for a Breguet-style souscription series – paid in advance by the client – but were not the first made. Image – Christie’s A handful of pre-production watches were made for Basel 1999, followed by the pre-souscription series to which this watch belongs. About 20 watches starting from “21” onwards are pre-souscription, and this is “041/00R”. Notably, one example prior, “040/00R”, sold for a little under CHF1.4 million including fees at Christie’s in 2023, setting a record. Image – Christie’s The Ruthenium collection, built in 99 examples each across five models from 2001 to 2005, includes the Octa Calendrie...
Worn & Wound
A Sneak Peek at the Watches of Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025
The next stop in our ongoing celebration of 10 years of Windup, the Windup Watch Fair San Francisco, is now right around the corner and if you’re like us, you’ve only got one thing on your mind: what watches am I going to see? Whether you are planning to stop at specific brands on your tour of the Fort Mason venue, or your plan is to wander through the nearly 90 different watch and EDC brands, today we’re highlighting a selection of standout projects from our Lead Sponsors. As always, Windup is free and open to the public, thanks in large part to these brands who continue to support the enthusiast community. You can see all of these brands and more at the 2025 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco: Fort Mason – Gateway Pavilion, 2 Marina Blvd, San Francisco Friday, May 2: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, May 3: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, May 4: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public You can see every sponsor on the Windup Watch Fair website. While you’re on the site, be sure to sign up for Windup updates to make sure you continue to get the latest info in advance of and throughout the Windup weekend. Here’s that sneak peek at the watches of our 2025 Lead Sponsors in San Francisco! anOrdain anOrdain is proud to celebrate the crafts of watchmaking and fired arts by introducing the Model 2 Porcelain. The Model 2 offers a true porcelain dial that was developed in-house after years of research aided by master potters in Stoke-on-Trent, England. Each dial is lovingly handcrafted by p...
Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Celebrates Its 270th Anniversary With Three Traditionnelle Openface Models
Vacheron Constantin’s anniversary celebrations do not go unnoticed. The 270-year-old horology house kicked things off in January with the stainless steel version of the Historiques 222. Yesterday, it unveiled a high-end follow-up to that release with the stunning new Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, the most complicated wristwatch ever created. Add the Traditionnelle Tourbillon […] Visit Vacheron Constantin Celebrates Its 270th Anniversary With Three Traditionnelle Openface Models to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Marks 270 Years with Most-Complicated-Wristwatch-Ever
This year is quite the anniversary for Vacheron Constantin, with the brand turning 270 years old. To mark the occasion appropriately, the Geneva-based manufacture created the mighty Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première, the culmination of eight years of development. Now the most complicated wristwatch ever, this unique wristwatch boasts 41 complications on two faces, encompassing five rare functions as well as a world first – a celestial object tracker. All of that is contained in a surprisingly compact, but still large, case. (A detailed list of the complications is available in the addendum below.) Initial thoughts Timepieces of such complexity reach beyond the realm of horology and can be regarded as engineering marvels. In a sense the Solaria is not unexpected since VC has a long history of making ultra-complications – “The Berkley” pocket watch was just unveiled a year ago – but the Solaria is one of the most fascinating watches in recent memory. The numbers behind the Solaria are impressive. Beyond the 41 functions, the watch is powered by the cal. 3655 that’s made up of 1521 pieces and the subject of 13 patents. The watch took eight years to develop and construct, which is impressive for a single timepiece. Surely VC will trickle down some of the developments related to cal. 3655 and install them in simpler timepieces, but condensing 41 complications into a wristwatch no thicker than 15 mm is an engineering feat that cannot b...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication Becomes the World’s Most Complicated Wristwatch
Celebrating its grand 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin’s bespoke Les Cabinotiers atelier presents a record-breaking watch with no fewer than 41 complications. Still holding the record for the world’s most complex pocket watch, the Berkley, itself beating its own reference 57260, Vacheron now claims the title for the world’s most complicated wristwatch, overtaking the Franck Muller […]
SJX Watches
Raúl Pagès Returns with the RP2
Three years after his RP1 wristwatch, Raúl Pagès has taken the covers off the RP2. Inheriting the clean aesthetic that characterised his earlier creation, the RP2 is a three-hand watch with a dial of white agate. Inside is a hand-wind movement modelled on historical precision chronometers. Mr Pagès has turned to specialists for many of the raw components of the RP2, and instead focuses on decorating and completing the watches, allowing him to plan to produce the 50-piece edition over two years. Initial thoughts The sheer number of time-only watches launched by “artisanal” independent watchmakers has made the concept mostly uninteresting for me. Mr Pagès’ new creation is yet another time-only watch with a highly finished movement. But Mr Pagès is the real deal. He is an actual watchmaker who can create with his hands, and more than that, Mr Pagès is also a restorer who worked for Parmigiani in the past. His background and skill set him apart, and because of this the RP2 also stands out from the rest of the time-only crowd. Though simple on its face, the RP2 incorporates interesting details, ranging from the hands to the raised flange around the dial. These reflect Mr Pagès’ thoughtful approach to watchmaking. But above all, his approach is exemplified by the movement, which is clearly a calibre that has a robust construction and refined finishing. Personally I would change a few elements of the design, which feels too empty and stark as it stands. However,...
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Trilobe Une Folle Journée Rhodium-plated Editions in Blue, Green and Black
Trilobe is a young, independent watch brand founded by Gautier Massonneau in 2013. The brand debuted its first timepiece, Les Matinaux – French for The Morning Ones and a tribute to René Char’s poetry collection – in 2018. Distinguished by its unconventional time display, Les Matinaux introduced an original system developed by Jean-François Mojon of […]
Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Partners with Watch Angels on a Revamped Worldtimer
Over the last several years we’ve seen all kinds of models pop up for the creation and distribution of limited edition watches. It’s becoming more and more clear that this most recent period in watch enthusiast history will almost certainly be known as the “Limited Edition Boom,” or something along those lines. Look at the pages of any watch media website, including this one, and you’ll find that news items about various LEs and collaborations dominate the conversation, so it’s no wonder that a cottage industry has sprung up to develop these kinds of watches specifically. Watch Angels is one such platform seeking to provide an ecosystem for brands (mostly independent) to create limited edition versions of watches that are funded by the eventual purchasers. It’s like the old souscription model crossed with Kickstater, with the main difference between Watch Angels and typical crowdfunding mechanisms being that these projects are largely one-offs from already established brands, and not debut collections from a start-up enterprise. Frederique Constant, certainly not a brand most observers would expect to dabble in a crowdfunding project, is the latest to partner with Watch Angels on a new limited edition release. The Frederique Constant Worldtimer Manufacture seen here is a new and slightly more refined spin on a signature Frederique Constant complication. They’ve been making some version of this watch since 2012 (remember their 10th anniversary worldtimer t...
Monochrome
First Look – The Chronofixe Asterix Is a Punch in the Face For Romans (Numerals, that is)
Chronofixe is a French brand created in the mid-19th century in Les Rasses, a small French village near the Swiss Border, just a few kilometres from La Chaux-de-Fonds. Despite the name falling into proverbial oblivion, it was relatively big at some point, with up to 200 workers. Among other watches, it is known for producing […]
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Presents Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel
The year’s Vacheron Constantin (VC) Les Cabinotiers collection of unique timepieces explore the mythology of time across different cultures. A trio of unique pieces with miniature enamel dials, Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin Japanese Culture are time-only watches with exquisite dial art, each depicting a Japanese deity. The functional simplicity of the three watches contrast with their Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin counterparts equipped with tourbillon regulators. While the tourbillon-equipped models take inspiration from Greek fables and wider East Asian culture, the present pieces are specifically focused on Japanese themes. Each of the three watches is equipped with a one-of-a-kind dial crafted with enamelling and engraving by VC’s in-house artisans. Initial thoughts VC’s endeavour bringing forth elements of time-related mythology from different cultural perspectives is laudable – and also logical given their application on a wristwatch. Moreover, the concept is executed well both in terms of style and technique in the 2024 Les Cabinotiers line-up. Les Cabinotiers (and also Metiers d’Art) demonstrate VC’s mastery of artisanal decoration. The dials in the Japanese Culture trio are achieved with several techniques in tandem, namely engraving and enamelling, but done in-house. The artful combination of technique results in a very-appealing series of unique creations. In fact, these watches are decorated with techniques similar to the incredible Les Cabinotier...
Fratello
The Fratello Watch List: Daan’s Pre-Owned And Neo-Vintage Favorites From Bvlgari, IWC, Breitling, And Girard-Perregaux
Welcome to the second installment of our new series, Fratello Watch List! Thomas kicked off this short series of articles exposing some of our writers’ watch hit lists. We all have a (not-so-)little list of references we plan on owning or maybe just dream of acquiring someday, don’t we? Today, it’s my turn to expose […] Visit The Fratello Watch List: Daan’s Pre-Owned And Neo-Vintage Favorites From Bvlgari, IWC, Breitling, And Girard-Perregaux to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Geared Up: Packing for the Unexpected
Life has an uncanny way of throwing a curveball at you when you least expect it. As I sat down to eat dinner and plan out some upcoming travel, I got the phone call that no one ever wants to get: “Your parent is in the hospital.” Being a younger guy, I still assume that my parents are somewhere between human and superhuman, always available to answer questions, and impart wisdom. Like many, I’ve viewed my parents as invincible for much of my life. As the phone call went on, two things immediately popped into my mind: I needed to book a flight home as soon as possible, and I needed to pack a bag. The concept of having an “emergency bag” isn’t new to me – being prepared was drilled into my head while I was in Boy Scouts, and the occasional threat of tornadoes in Kentucky meant I always had something ready, but between moving to NYC a year ago and just generally being busy, I hadn’t taken the time to repack such a bag, which bit me when I got the call about my father. I’m happy to report that several weeks out from that phone call he’s doing well and recovering. While I hope that you don’t get the same call anytime soon, it was a stark reminder that things are unpredictable and you need to be willing and able to react quickly. Now, I need to preface the rest of this article and say that this isn’t a definitive guide to what you should have in your bag, but rather an overview of the items that I had (and will have) in my bag as I work to be more prepa...
Fratello
The Fratello Watch List: Thomas’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Lange, Rolex, And Cartier
Welcome to our new series, the Fratello Watch List! I get to kick off this short series of articles exposing some of our writers’ watch hit lists. We all have a (not-so-)little list of references we plan on owning or maybe just dream of acquiring someday, don’t we? In my case, it is a list […] Visit The Fratello Watch List: Thomas’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Lange, Rolex, And Cartier to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Limited-Edition Watches
Today, on Fratello Talks, the topic of discussion is limited-edition watches. Nacho, RJ, and Daan share their thoughts on brands’ special releases because not all LEs are created equal. The discussion starts with some favorite limited editions and gets into the nitty-gritty of what makes some LEs better than others. They also dive into different […] Visit Fratello Talks: Limited-Edition Watches to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
The Golden Age of Rolex Movements Part III: Branding vs. Breakthroughs in Recent Years
The last two decades have witnessed regular Rolex engineering advances, often in plain sight and in rapid succession. Despite these developments, Rolex remains a brand defined not by movements but by continuity, model families, and the Rolex image itself. Tim Mosso thinks that the root of Rolex’s soft-pedaled reputation for movement virtuosity lies in the company’s own branding strategy. That and more in this third installment of Rolex's history of movement technology.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Editions Shadow and Light
Elegantly original with a slightly poetical twist and yet serious watchmaking credentials, Trilobe is a young French brand founded by Gautier Massonneau and specialized in watches that tell the time differently. Next to the inaugural Les Matinaux and the eccentric, complex Une Folle Journée, the Nuit Fantastique represents the timeless and elegant option of the […]
Worn & Wound
Oris Celebrates Geneva Watch Days with Two New Releases: an Updated Aquis Chronograph and a Limited Edition Divers Sixty-Five
It’s been an undeniably good year for watches over at Oris. Whether your tastes skew toward the Aquis or the Divers Sixty-Five, there have been plenty of wonderful new additions to the Oris catalog in 2024, from the all-new Aquis introduced at Watches and Wonders to the slew of exciting LEs that have punctuated the year. For Geneva Watch Days, Oris is continuing the trend, marking Geneva’s second biggest week in watches with not only a new Divers Sixty-Five LE but a brand new generation of Aquis Chronograph as well. Since its introduction in 2015, the Divers Sixty-Five has been a clear hit for Oris. It’s one of those watches you actually see in the real world, and the versatile model has been the platform for some of the brand’s most popular and sought-after collaborations and limited editions. This summer alone has seen three wildly different interpretations of the Divers Sixty-Five hit the market, each with its own distinct appeal. This latest addition to the lineup sees Oris collaborating with France’s Ligue de Football Professionnel (LFP), along with LFP’s charity partner CNAPE (the National Convention of Child Protection Associations). Inspired by CNAPE’s mission, this 1,000-piece LE is replete with small details highlighting the partnership. Standouts here include the deep blue dial and the distinct font used for all the dial text, which is inspired by a child’s handwriting - a choice augmented by the rainbow of color used to spell out “water resi...
Fratello
#TBT One Decent Omega Speedmaster Ed White 105.003 For Me, Please!
Most of the time, I have my #TBT stories scheduled weeks, if not months, ahead. I’ve found it easier to follow the plan and not think way too long about what my weekly dose of vintage watch inspiration for you will be. But sometimes, the inspiration is so strong that I have to put my […] Visit #TBT One Decent Omega Speedmaster Ed White 105.003 For Me, Please! to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’
Vacheron Constantin’s flagship launch for the year is the Les Cabinotiers “The Berkley” Grand Complication, but it a 1 kg pocket watch with 63 complications and an eight-figure price tag commissioned by a billionaire insurance entrepreneur. For more ordinary well-off persons, the brand’s halo product is the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine. Based on a model launched in pink gold in 2020, the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine is a large but elegant watch executed to a high level, with both fine movement decoration and the usual all-platinum CEP treatment. A periodic offering from Vacheron Constantin (VC) since 2006, the Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) is a series of limited editions that are variations of regular production models enhanced with the liberal use of platinum throughout the watch. Typically that means a platinum case and clasp, which are ordinary, but also an unusual sandblasted platinum dial and also a strap stitched with platinum-and-silk thread. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the CEP series because it’s a subtle twist on the standard version, with the differences only really apparent to those in the know. At the same time, because the CEP treatment is simple, it often works better on some models than others. With the CEP line now almost 20 years old, there are about a dozen CEP editions to demonstrate that point. The platinum treatment arguably works best with more complicated watches like the Tradit...
Teddy Baldassarre
5 Watches To Start A Collection
Having a collection of watches isn’t generally something you plan on. It’s something that emerges over time, and it’s rarely a linear path. While it may seem natural to focus on finding the perfect watch or watches to fill out your watch box, the reality is that all watches have their faults, and the real key is learning which of those you can live with, and which you can’t. In time, some of those, let’s call them quirks, can even become endearing. With that in mind, instead of looking at watches that will begin a collection, let us take a look at watches that will end up lasting in your collection. Sure, they could start your collection, but they could just as easily end it, whether that collection consists of two watches, or 50. With that, here are 5 watches that would kick off any collection with a bang, and that I feel would have a high likelihood of sticking around for the long term. Disclaimer: these selections will lean a bit toward the tool watch end of the spectrum, as those are the watches that I find the most well-rounded and practical for my purposes. If you’re looking for some classier recommendations in the same vein, keep an eye out for a future installment. Brew Metric The Brew Metric is a remarkably fun, simple watch that represents the sheer creativity happening in the small independent brand space. This is a great watch to start with for a few reasons. First, it can be had in a wide variety of colorways, which range from classic and de...
Hodinkee
Watch Spotting: Kylian Mbappé Wearing A Hublot Big Bang Before France’s Euro 2024 Semifinal Match With Spain
A Big Bang for Les Bleus.
Worn & Wound
Parties, Panels, and Pizza! All the Events During Windup Chicago 2024
This time next week we will be recovering from another exciting Chicago Windup Watch Fair full of great memories from our third annual trip to the Windy City. With over 60 brands showcasing the latest and greatest in watch releases from around the globe, we’d understand if you have already put together your plan of brands to visit during your time at Venue West. Update those plans because the Windup Lineup of Panels and events just dropped! As a reminder for those unfamiliar with Windup Chicago 2024, here are the key details for this free and open to the public event. Venue West – 221 N Paulina St, Chicago, IL 60612 Friday, July 12: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, July 13: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, July 14: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public Free parking available across the street from the venue As always, we work closely with our editorial team and our Lead Sponsors to craft engaging panels for audiences to get even deeper looks into the wonderful world of watches. We always make sure to include a bit of time for Q&A; as well. Beyond panels, be sure to stay around the venue for meetups, happy hours, and extra surprises to come throughout the weekend. Take a look below at the schedule and be sure to join Worn & Wound+, our free Slack community to get the latest and greatest Windup news over the weekend. Thursday, July 11, 2024 Chicago Windup Watch Fair Opening Reception 6:00 PM – 8:00 PM *MUST RSVP TO ATTEND* To celebrate Windup’s return to the Windy City, we’ve teamed...
Fratello
Fratello On Air: A Flurry Of New Releases From Omega, Ming, Seiko, And More
Fratello On Air is back after more than two weeks. We didn’t plan to be away, but illness and travel got in the way again. Today, we talk about some new releases after our normal banter about a variety of topics. We hope you enjoy the show and, yes, we’ll be back in a few […] Visit Fratello On Air: A Flurry Of New Releases From Omega, Ming, Seiko, And More to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The Serica 6190 Chronomètre M.S.L, the Updated Field Watch
Despite being a relatively young brand (founded in 2019), Serica already carries a consistent collection of retro-inspired sports watches – field, dive and GMT. A project of Je?ro?me Burgert and Gabriel Vachette (both behind French magazine Les Rhabilleurs), all watches are designed to be used and abused with sturdiness, precision and style in mind. Today, […]
Worn & Wound
Take An Early Peek at the Products of Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2024
Windup Watch Fair San Francisco is right around the corner and if you’re like us, you’ve only got one thing on your mind: what watches am I going to see? Whether you are planning to stop at specific brands on your tour of the new venue in Fort Mason, or your plan is to wander through the 80 different watch and EDC brands, today we’re highlighting a selection of standout projects from our Lead Sponsors. As always, Windup is free and open to the public, thanks in large part to these brands who continue to support the enthusiast community. You can see all of these brands and more at the 2024 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco: Fort Mason – Gateway Pavilion, 2 Marina Blvd, San Francisco Friday, May 3: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, May 4: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, May 5: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public You can see every product listed here and more from each sponsor on the Windup Watch Fair Product Showcase. While you’re on the site, be sure to sign up for Windup updates to make sure you continue to get the latest info in advance of and throughout Windup Weekend. Alpina One of the key brands in the Citizen group family, Alpina brings design and engineering talents to build luxury sport watches that operate with the highest available standards in precision and reliability through sporting environments. At Windup SF 2024, Alpina will showcase their Alpiner Extreme Automatic model, relaunched in 2022 after a 2009 introduction. Now with stainless steel bracelets, the watch c...
SJX Watches
Masterpieces from the Met for the Wrist by Vacheron Constantin
Having announced a partnership with The Metropolitan Museum of Art last year, Vacheron Constantin has just launched Masterpiece on Your Wrist, a programme that offers the opportunity to commission timepieces featuring enamel dials that replicate select artworks from the Met’s collection in a wristwatch created by Les Cabinotiers, the watchmaker’s workshop for custom and bespoke watches. A client could commission Vincent van Gogh’s Wheat Field with Cypresses as a minute repeater for instance. Naturally, clients who commission such a timepiece will receive more than a watch. The process includes a private tour of the Met and a visit to Vacheron Constantin’s Geneva manufacture. Wheat Field with Cypresses Initial thoughts Geneva’s important watchmakers, namely Vacheron Constantin and its crosstown rival, have long reproduced important works of art on wrist (or pocket) watch dials. In the late 20th century, Suzanne Rohr famously replicated various classical European artworks in miniature enamel. And more recently, Anita Porchet recreated Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring on the monumental Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie commissioned by a noted Asian collector. Masterpiece on Your Wrist is a continuation and formalisation of that historical practice that also allows privileged access to one of the world’s most noted museums. For an art lover, this is quite the opportunity. Bridge over a Pond of Water Lilies by Claude Monet Granted, most of the artworks in th...
Fratello
So You Want To Start A Microbrand? - Here Are 10 Tips
So you want to start a microbrand, do you? Many watch enthusiasts find themselves playing around with the idea of developing a watch of their own. Some actually pursue it. If you plan to be one of them, there are many pitfalls you may find yourself running into. As someone who has recently navigated many […] Visit So You Want To Start A Microbrand? - Here Are 10 Tips to read the full article.
Hodinkee
One To Watch: Fleming’s 'Series 1' Brings Together Two Young Collectors, One Tennis Star, And A Cadre Of Swiss Industry Veterans For A New Independent
Based in the United States and built in Switzerland, Fleming is the culmination of years of passion from its founder, but with a plan to be in the industry for the long haul.
Quill & Pad
Depth-Testing my Seiko SKX013 Dive Watch: Jumping In at the Deep End
Professional watchmakers have specialist machinery for testing the water resistance of their watches, but Colin Alexander Smith does not. So after servicing his Seiko SKX013 he was on the lookout for an opportunity to take it down deep. And he found the perfect opportunity while summer holiday diving at Aiguablava cove on Spain's Costa Brava. But it didn't go quite to plan and his Seiko came out of the experience a tad better than he did.