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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

First Look – The New, More Compact Bell & Ross BR-05 36mm Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR-05 36mm Bell & Apr 15, 2025

First Look – The New, More Compact Bell & Ross BR-05 36mm

Bell & Ross has never strayed far from its winning formula of aeronautical instrument-inspired watches. Brandishing the tagline “from the cockpit to the wrist,” Bell & Ross’s watches are loyal to the “circle within a square design” inspired by dashboard flight instruments. However, the brand has understood that to reach more customers, it needs to […]

Hands-On With The Flashy Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm In Rose Tone And Blue Fratello
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm Apr 15, 2025

Hands-On With The Flashy Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm In Rose Tone And Blue

Tissot relaunched the PRX five years ago. Time flies when you’re having fun, doesn’t it? The integrated-bracelet sports watch has become something of a fan favorite in the meantime. It graces the wrists of many newcomers to the watch hobby and veterans alike. Tissot blessed us with tons of variants to choose from. Different sizes, […] Visit Hands-On With The Flashy Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm In Rose Tone And Blue to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 Monochrome
Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Apr 14, 2025

Introducing – The New Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574

Panerai is the official timekeeper of the Salone del Mobile, the largest and most prestigious annual international design fair held in Milan since 1961. Panerai’s involvement with Milan Design Week is celebrated with the release of the new Lumimor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574. As a product launched in 1949 that retains many original design […]

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Nacho’s Picks From Tudor, Nomos, Panerai, And More Fratello
Panerai Apr 12, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Nacho’s Picks From Tudor, Nomos, Panerai, And More

Though it seems like an age has passed, Watches and Wonders 2025 closed its doors just less than a week ago. The intense week-long event sees media, retailers, and other interested entities tread thousands of steps onto Palexpo’s uncanny light brown carpet as they flock from appointment to appointment. This is where we first get […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Nacho’s Picks From Tudor, Nomos, Panerai, And More to read the full article.

Louis Moinet Debuts New Chronograph Movement in the 1816 SJX Watches
Louis Moinet Apr 11, 2025

Louis Moinet Debuts New Chronograph Movement in the 1816

A tribute to the first chronograph pocket watch, the Louis Moinet 1816 combines contemporary case design with an all-new, classically constructed chronograph movement featuring a column wheel, horizontal clutch, and swan’s neck regulator. With the 1816, Louis Moinet has concocted an unusual but appealing proposition that blends the new with the old. Initial thoughts Louis Moinet is regarded as the inventor of the chronograph thanks to the compteur de tierce (which translates as “thirds counter”) that he revealed in 1816. His creation was considered more of a scientific instrument than a chronograph as we know it today. It was Nicolas Rieussiec who actually coined the term “chronograph” a few years later in 1821. Now the revived brand bearing Moinet’s name has taken inspiration from his 1816 invention to create a reinterpretation of the compteur de tierce. The original “thirds counter”. Image – Louis Moinet With a monochromatic, all-titanium construction and integrated bracelet, the 1816 looks to be a sports watch, yet it only has a 30 m water resistance. The traditionally styled movement stands in contrast with the contemporary and somewhat trendy exterior. Such a tribute to a historic piece would arguably have worked better with appropriately classical design. As it is, the 1816 is neither a dress nor a sports watch. The design feels confused, but the appeal of the movement alone is clear since it ticks most of the boxes that collectors appreciate in an ...

Hands-on – The Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy, now with METAS Movement and More Updates Monochrome
Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy Apr 10, 2025

Hands-on – The Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy, now with METAS Movement and More Updates

Of all the new releases from Tudor at this year’s Watches and Wonders, the standout piece was undoubtedly the evolution of the Black Bay 58 line, now presented in a striking all-burgundy design, with both the dial and bezel dressed in the deep red tone. While the dial colour holds historical significance, the real game-changer […]

The Watch Industry Reacts to Tariffs on Swiss Imports to the United States Worn & Wound
Apr 9, 2025

The Watch Industry Reacts to Tariffs on Swiss Imports to the United States

Last week, midway through the watch industry’s biggest trade show, Donald Trump announced 31% tariffs on Swiss imports. The proposed tariffs, enacted as of this morning, immediately became the focus of many discussions in Geneva between brands, retailers, and the press, at Palexpo and beyond. The United States is the largest importer of Swiss watches in the world, so a new tariff of 31% on Swiss imports to the US has the potential to reshape not just the watch market in the United States, but the industry as a whole.  The announcement could not have come at a more pressure packed time. The entire watch industry – retailers, brands, manufacturing partners, collectors, and executives – was gathered in Geneva last week, doing the business that normally shapes the arc of the year. As the news was absorbed on Thursday, we witnessed brands and retailers reacting in real time, changing or solidifying plans as appropriate. The inescapable nature of the topic in meetings meant to showcase new products underscored the seriousness of Trump’s announcement, and the potential implications.  In seeking to understand the ramifications of the planned tariffs, we sought out an economist to help firm up our understanding of what the administration is seeking to accomplish. Brendan Cunningham is a professor of economics at Eastern Connecticut State University, and the author of Horolonomics, a website dedicated to “economic complications in watchmaking.” We started by defining o...

Grand Seiko Debuts the Angular, Sporty Tentagraph Tokyo Lion SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Debuts Apr 8, 2025

Grand Seiko Debuts the Angular, Sporty Tentagraph Tokyo Lion

Grand Seiko’s flagship mechanical chronograph has been reimagined as the Sports Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Executed in the brand’s proprietary “Brilliant Hard Titanium”, the oversized, facetted case is inspired by the paw of a lion, the historical emblem of Grand Seiko. This is the first time the Tentagraph movement is being combined with the Tokyo Lion case, setting it apart from the original model that was in the classic Grand Seiko Evolution 9 design. Initial thoughts While the original Tentagraph was conventional in style, the Tokyo Lion edition is big and bold. The watch has presence on the wrist. The case is large at 43 mm wide and almost 16 mm high, with its many facetted surfaces catching the light nicely. While the concept of a lion-inspired case might sound gimmicky, the new Tentagraph has its own appeal. The size and style makes this less of a low-key everyday watch than the first Tentagraph, but definitely more striking and original. Even though the Tokyo Lion case is arguably an acquired taste, I like this more than the original. At US$16,400, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph is one of Grand Seiko’s priciest models in non-precious metal. But it is a flagship watch with a latest-generation movement, the cal. 9SC5, which incorporates the proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement and a free-sprung balance. The only shortcoming of the watch is the modular construction of the movement. Ten beats per second While the Tokyo Lion case design has been emplo...

IWC Scales Down the Ingenieur to 35 mm SJX Watches
IWC Scales Down Apr 8, 2025

IWC Scales Down the Ingenieur to 35 mm

A new addition to the revived Ingenieur introduced two years ago, the Ingenieur Automatic 35 is just 35 mm in diameter and 9.44 mm thick, giving it a more streamlined profile than its 40 mm sibling. The size brings to mind the Ingenieur ref. 3521 of the 1990s that was just 34 mm wide. Beyond its compact dimensions, it preserves the hallmarks of the Ingenieur design, including a brushed bezel and case with polished chamfers, and matching integrated bracelet. The new Ingenieur is offered in stainless steel, with a choice of black or white dials, or in 18k red gold. Initial thoughts The modern-day Ingenieur 40 is a relatively faithful homage to the 1970s Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta. The new 35 mm model retains the same styling but harks back to the smaller, 1990s model, filling out the Ingenieur line with a smaller offering. The smaller model has the same strengths and weaknesses as its larger cousin: an appealing historical design, solid execution of the case and bracelet, but a middling in-house movement matched with a relatively high retail price of US$9,950 in stainless steel and US$37,500 in red gold. Compact profile With a 35 mm diameter and a thickness of 9.44 mm, the new Ingenieur is what would be described as mid size by modern standards. Beyond the smaller form factor, it remains nearly identical to its 40 mm counterpart. It’s offered in stainless steel or 5N red gold with a matching bracelet. Notably, the gold version features a gold-plated dial with so...

First Look – The Louis Moinet 1816 Chronograph, a Tribute to the Famous Compteur de Tierces Monochrome
Louis Moinet Apr 7, 2025

First Look – The Louis Moinet 1816 Chronograph, a Tribute to the Famous Compteur de Tierces

Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2025, the 1816 Chronograph blends a modern integrated bracelet design with more traditional elements drawn from Louis Moinet‘s classic repertoire, in particular from the fascinating and remarkable Compteur de Tierces, one of the precursors of the modern chronograph. Powered by an appealing, traditional hand-wound chronograph movement, this new Louis Moinet […]

Hands-On With The New Baltic Scalegraph Tour Auto 2025 Limited Edition Fratello
Baltic Scalegraph Tour Auto 2025 Apr 7, 2025

Hands-On With The New Baltic Scalegraph Tour Auto 2025 Limited Edition

Watches and Wonders may have drawn most of our attention last week, but that doesn’t mean nothing is happening elsewhere in the watch world. Baltic, one of the young guns making waves in recent years, announced a new limited edition. I got the chance to try it out. This is the new Baltic Scalegraph Tour […] Visit Hands-On With The New Baltic Scalegraph Tour Auto 2025 Limited Edition to read the full article.

First Look – The New IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 Monochrome
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 IWC’s Apr 3, 2025

First Look – The New IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35

IWC’s Ingenieur collection has been slated for growth this year, welcoming new sizes, materials, and complications. Representing the most compact member of the family to date, the new 35mm Ingenieur is a smart move to conquer more wrist sizes in the ever-expanding unisex sector. Presented in three variants, the smallest descendants of Gérald Genta’s design […]

Introducing – The New Sellita-Powered Oris Big Crown Pointer Date with Colourful Dials Monochrome
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Apr 3, 2025

Introducing – The New Sellita-Powered Oris Big Crown Pointer Date with Colourful Dials

Alongside the green and terracotta Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 housed in a 40mm case with a sleek, polished bezel instead of the classic coin-edge design, Oris also introduces a trio of new, simpler versions of its emblematic watch. And while these lack the high-performance Calibre 403 movement and replace it with a Sellita […]

Cartier Revisits the Tank à Guichets with an In-House Movement SJX Watches
Cartier Revisits Apr 3, 2025

Cartier Revisits the Tank à Guichets with an In-House Movement

One of the most distinctive versions of Cartier’s signature rectangular watch, the Tank à Guichets has been revived as part of the Privé collection, joining watches like the Tortue Monopoussoir and Tank Cintree. The last time Cartier had such a model in its catalogue was exactly 20 years ago with the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) iteration. Sporting a crown at 12 o’clock like some historical examples of the model, the Tank à Guichets indicates the time in twin apertures, with jumping hours at 12 o’clock and minutes at six. Measuring a slim 6 mm in height, the Tank à Guichets (or “Tank with Windows”) is powered by a new in-house movement, the cal. 9755 MC. Notably, it will be a regular production model in yellow or rose gold, as well as platinum, plus an asymmetrical or “oblique” model that is limited to 200 pieces. The regular production models (left), and limited edition Initial thoughts The Tank à Guichets was always one of my favourite iterations of the Tank, and the popularity of the preceding version made it almost inevitable that Cartier would revive the design. The new Tank à Guichets is subtly different from the CPCP version, most notably in its slim profile, but still looks and feels correct. The finishing on the case is excellent, particularly on the polished bevels that frame the apertures. The movement, on the other hand, is concealed behind a solid back but is industrial in finish and style. That said, it is an integrated calibre ...

First Look – The Purple Dial of the Grand Seiko 44GS SBGW323 ‘Kiri’ Monochrome
Grand Seiko 44GS SBGW323 ‘Kiri’ What’s Apr 2, 2025

First Look – The Purple Dial of the Grand Seiko 44GS SBGW323 ‘Kiri’

What’s particularly reassuring about Grand Seiko’s more compact watches is that they don’t cut corners. When Grand Seiko introduced its 44GS reference in a 36.5mm case, the characteristics of its 1967 ancestor, the model that cemented the tenets of the “Grammar of Design”, were dutifully respected. Everything admired about Grand Seiko was present but in […]

Hot Take: The Piaget Polo 79 Looks Even Better In White Gold Fratello
Piaget Polo 79 Looks Even Apr 2, 2025

Hot Take: The Piaget Polo 79 Looks Even Better In White Gold

In 2024, Piaget celebrated the 45th anniversary of Yves Piaget’s Polo watch by introducing a re-edition, the Polo 79, in full yellow gold. It came out in February of last year, and RJ dared to say that probably nothing at Watches and Wonders 2024 would trump it. We all know RJ is very much into […] Visit Hot Take: The Piaget Polo 79 Looks Even Better In White Gold to read the full article.

In Case You Like Your Reverso Complicated: Jaeger-LeCoultre Presents The Reverso Tribute Geographic And Minute Repeater Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Presents Apr 2, 2025

In Case You Like Your Reverso Complicated: Jaeger-LeCoultre Presents The Reverso Tribute Geographic And Minute Repeater

It’s not like you’re going to play polo any time soon anyway, so why not have your Reverso complicated and with two dials? Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the Reverso Tribute Geographic and Minute Repeater, showing once again that the brand knows how to tastefully combine a classic design with horological technicity. Both complications are not just fascinating […] Visit In Case You Like Your Reverso Complicated: Jaeger-LeCoultre Presents The Reverso Tribute Geographic And Minute Repeater to read the full article.

The Rolex Land-Dweller is Here: We Got a Watchmaker’s Perspective on the Crown’s New Dynapulse Movement Technology Worn & Wound
Rolex Land-Dweller Apr 1, 2025

The Rolex Land-Dweller is Here: We Got a Watchmaker’s Perspective on the Crown’s New Dynapulse Movement Technology

In recent days, much of the watch internet has been abuzz with the apparent news of a new Rolex collection with the somewhat hard to believe name of Land-Dweller. Leaked images of the Crown’s new watch began to emerge in the days leading up to this year’s Watches & Wonders, and, as you’d expect from the internet, debate ensued. The shots purported to capture a Datejust-adjacent design with sharper lines and, perhaps, an integrated bracelet. The official Rolex teaser for Watches & Wonders on Instagram seemed to confirm many of the details that had already been guessed, and then a very Daniel Craig at the Olympics style image of Roger Federer wearing the watch hit social media via the tennis star’s (and Rolex ambassador’s) Instagram account. It appeared to everyone at this point that the Land-Dweller was real – we only had to wait for the details.  Rolex has made those details public as of today, with the announcement of the new Land-Dweller collection. This is much more, though, than Rolex jumping on the integrated bracelet sports watch bandwagon (although, it is that, at least a little bit). The Land-Dweller is also an important moment for Rolex as a movement maker, as it introduces their new, patented, direct impulse escapament which goes by the trade name Dynapulse. It uses dual silicon wheels and introduces us to Rolex caliber 7135. More on that caliber in a moment, but first, the broad strokes of the Land-Dweller collection. The new collection features a f...

First Look – The New Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009 Apr 1, 2025

First Look – The New Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009

Grand Seiko introduced the Tokyo Lion’s bold, angular case design in 2019 and since then, additional editions have multiplied its aesthetic -limited and regular production-the most recent being the 2024 Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 Tokyo Lion and the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC275. This year, the Grand Seiko Sport collection expands by unveiling a […]