Hodinkee
I Spent Last Week In Geneva, And The Andersen Geneve Rattrapante Mondial Was The Best Thing I Saw
While technically nothing new, it’s also a world first, and I liked it enough to actually write about it.
25,107 articles · 205 videos found · page 431 of 844
Hodinkee
While technically nothing new, it’s also a world first, and I liked it enough to actually write about it.
WatchAdvice
The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Black Ceramic is a stealth watch with Genta’s DNA baked into the material. But does it stand on its own? Let’s find out! What We Love The Ingenieur design is adapted to black ceramic Dial legibility is still present Finishing of the material makes this a standout watch What We Don’t Lack of the quick link adjustment system on the bracelet The all-black look may not be for everyone’s tastes The 42 mm sizing makes this watch wear different to the Ingenieur 40 and may not suit a smaller wrist Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Ingenieur dominated IWC’s 2025 Watches & Wonders releases, expanding into new sizes and materials. And, of course, there was the quickly sold-out green dial inspired by the vintage Ingenieur SL worn by Brad Pitt in F1: The Movie. But one model possibly stood apart from the rest: the 42 mm all-black ceramic Ingenieur. Not because it was louder, but because it fundamentally changed how the Ingenieur is built, worn, and perceived. We were lucky to catch up with IWC’s CEO, Chris Grainger-Herr, who explained that developing the Ingenieur in an all-ceramic case and bracelet wasn’t as simple as remaking the watch in a different material. Ceramic is notoriously hard to work with, and it is not a case of a simple material swap. It requires a lot more attention – one reason why the Ingenieur is in a slightly larger 42 mm size. Myself, Chris Grai...
Hodinkee
SCOTUS struck down Trump's emergency tariffs and watch importers could seek millions in refunds, however the President says he has a legal workaround to keep tariffs in place.
Monochrome
Tudor was founded in 1926 by Hans Wilsdorf, the man who also co-founded Rolex. As such, the brand celebrates its 100th anniversary this year (to be precise, the anniversary was three days ago, on February 17th). To mark this significant milestone, Tudor opened its doors to a select group of journalists, granting rare access not […]
Worn & Wound
For years now, Romaric Andre, better known as seconde/seconde/, has been collaborating with watch brands of all kinds on creative limited editions that effectively serve as visual puns. He’s applied his unique sense of humor and aesthetic to watches made by H. Moser, Spinnaker, Maen, and many more brands at every conceivable price point. We talked to him about his process and art here. This is all to say, watch enthusiasts have a pretty good understanding of seconde/seconde/ at this point. That’s a good thing, on one level, as it means his name (or his pseudonym, at least) is out there. But it also makes it harder to surprise, which was so much a part of the charm of those early collaborations. The latest from seconde/seconde/ is about as good a distillation of what he’s all about as I can think of, and represents a real opportunity for enthusiasts who have been waiting for something affordable and representative from the designer to latch onto. The new watch, a collaboration with Citizen, is a limited edition of that brand’s Tsuyosa integrated bracelet sports watch. This is a platform that has proven to be quite popular for Citizen in recent years, offering a way to get into the normally high priced world of integrated bracelet sports watches for a minimal initial investment. I wrote about my own experience with a Tsuyosa here, and stand by my thesis that it’s a great way to get a feel for this type of sports watch. The new limited edition features a sunray bl...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The new Citizen Tsuyosa Shore brings dive watch vibes, 100m water resistance, and pricing to challenge the Seiko 5 Sports models.
Monochrome
Who doesn’t know MeisterSinger…? If you are into watches, with just a superficial interest, the name surely rings a bell: it’s a single-handed watch! Founded in Münster in 2001, the brand decided to build its identity around the idea that time doesn’t need to be dissected into seconds and minutes. By returning to the single-hand […]
Deployant
New & reviewed, Citizen Series 8 mechanical NB6080-51W. Deployant is honoured to be among the first in the world to gain access to them.
Teddy Baldassarre
With a GPHG award, a head-turning, high-complication entry in the Only Watch Auction, and a buzz-worthy, retro-cool release in the Disco Volante collection, Swiss microbrand Furlan Marri has gone from Kickstarter to contender in less than five years on the market. Here’s what you need to know about the company, its philosophy, and what its collection looks like right now. [toc-section heading="Furlan Marri Origin Story"] Furlan Marri was born from a partnership between two friends from different corners of the watch-enthusiast community - Andrea Furlan, a Swiss-born industrial designer plying a successful trade as a watch design consultant for major brands, and Hamad Al Marri, a watch collector and artist from Saudi Arabia. United by their mutual longtime passion for timepieces, the two joined forces in 2021 to launch their eponymous brand on Kickstarter. Its fast-track to success seemed an inevitability almost from the beginning, as the project was fully funded after 35 seconds on the crowdfunding platform, supported by an enthusiastic community of thousands that had formed around the founders. Those first Furlan Marri watches that emerged from the initial Kickstarter kickoff campaign were vintage-influenced chronographs, taking clear design cues from forebears of the 1930s and ‘40s produced by brands like Patek Philippe, Lemania, and Vacheron Constantin. The cases were 38mm in steel (upsized a bit from the 34mm - 35mm norm of the era being paid homage), the dials...
Worn & Wound
Without a doubt, I consider Ressence one of the most interesting watch brands that exists today. I recognize that this comes as an extremely bold and uniformed statement considering I’ve never seen a Ressence in the metal (a.k.a. ‘in person’ for any non-watch folks that somehow found their way here and are reading this). Considering their rarity and cost to acquire, many of y’all reading this probably haven’t seen one either; And to clarify up front: I don’t, or haven’t yet, reviewed watches for Worn & Wound; I just write somewhat interesting takes from a designers point of view on things that I find worthy, and this time around it just so happens to be the Ressence brand, of which I am deeply fond of having viewed it only on the interwebs; but I digress, back to the story! On paper, and through their perfectly crafted collaborations and partnerships, Ressence scratches all of my itches for a dream watch, albeit a watch that is extremely out of reach in price and availability for myself and many, hence the word ‘dream’. However, I fully respect and understand the price these watches sell for, because of Ressence’s approach to innovation and what goes into making each and every piece of art. I don’t actually like using the word innovative at all, if ever, because I think it is so grossly over used; but for Ressence I am happy to anoint them worthy of that distinction. This is not a new take, or a new perspective I hold, considering that Ressence has be...
Monochrome
The tourbillon… is it a visual stunt or a useful component? If you chose to put one in a watch to do the work it was designed to do, you might as well keep it hidden. If the purpose is to mesmerise the onlooker with its rhythmic ballet, make it big, make it seen, so […]
Time+Tide
With a spread of vintage Tudor military pieces laid out before a room full of devoted enthusiasts, James Dowling guides us through them.The post An untold history of Tudor military watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Using the analogy of Grand Seiko and Seiko, Orient Star is the premium division of Orient watches (both part of Seiko Epson since 2017). Established in 1951, Orient Star produces more refined watches featuring complications and a characteristic Japanese balance of quality and value. Celebrating its 75th anniversary, Orient Star reimagines the design of its […]
Monochrome
In the ever-growing Seiko 5 Sports collection, there are classic models and then some pretty cool limited editions, either inspired by the past or produced in collaboration with brands or franchises that have not much to do with watchmaking (at least at first sight). That can be anything from Pepsi bezel watches actually made together […]
Monochrome
Founded in 1948 by Henry Belmont, Yema was France’s top producer and exporter by the 1960s. Renowned for legendary models such as the Superman, which appealed to professional and amateur divers alike, Yema went the way of many other mechanical watch brands during the quartz crisis and changed hands, including a stint with Seiko, until a French […]
SJX Watches
Resonance watches are among the most elusive machines in modern watchmaking. Creations such as F.P. Journe’s Chronomètre à Résonance perform well at auctions, commanding high prices. While their rarity and appeal are undeniable, watches that purport to harness resonance tend to be viewed with a degree of skepticism. A measure of skepticism is understandable - the concept of sprung balances becoming almost magically coupled is anything but straightforward and requires a profound understanding of oscillators in general. This story seeks to shed some light on the concept of coupled oscillators by explaining the two models of coupling and explore the nuances of each system. Before exploring resonance, the reader is encouraged to review the basics of sprung oscillators and isochronism in order to become more familiar with the hairspring and balance wheel model. The F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Souscription No. 2 sold for more than CHF3 million in November 2025. A confusion of terms First, the term resonance itself requires definition. In classical physics (mechanics, electrical engineering, signal processing, etc.) resonance is a phenomenon where a system vibrates under the influence of an external driving force that matches the system’s eigenfrequency (natural frequency). This is to say that a system at rest, which includes mass and spring elements, can be excited into a state of resonance by an external force when particular conditions are met. An imp...
Teddy Baldassarre
In the wild and wonderful world of watches, many brands have made pieces geared towards just about every specific sport, adventure, and niche-within-a-niche under the sun. Down below, I’ll be embarking on a journey through the best watches made to brave the great outdoors, spanning from watches that make great light-hiking companions to those that are made to face the most punishing terrain. So there’s a little something for everyone here in this humble guide. I’ll be casting a wide net in terms of price point, ranging from the accessible entry points to the more luxury-leaning end of the spectrum. [toc-section heading="Timex Expedition"] Because I couldn’t choose just one watch from Timex’s collection geared towards outdoorsy folk, I’m going to rapid-fire through the highlights. If I were to pick out one watch for myself, I would probably go with the Expedition Chrono-Alarm Timer. It’s small and discreet, and realistically, I live in New York City, and my adventuring moments are usually quite tame. It’s water resistant 100 meters, I like the convenience of a digital display when I’m out on a leisurely hike upstate, and I like the added alarm and countdown timer functionality. It’s also $87, which is a comfortable price for me to spend on an outdoor watch. Pivoting to a more classic field watch option, I think the Expedition Camper is a pretty compelling, no-nonsense option. Its monochrome colorpalette is sleek, we got a nice fabric strap in case we w...
Monochrome
Whenever movements are discussed, attention tends to focus on the Swiss, which is understandable, but it excludes some of the biggest movement manufacturers. Seiko, Miyota and so on, let alone the Chinese, produce far more movements per year on their own than ETA or Sellita do, for instance. To put this into some form of […]
Worn & Wound
When it comes to high end watches, we all have our little rabbit holes that we’re particularly and endlessly fascinated by. For me, H. Moser tourbillons have been points of obsession since the first time I encountered one. There’s something about Moser’s contemporary approach to design acting as a counterpoint to the classical way a tourbillon is typically executed that I find really appealing. One of my favorite experiences reviewing a watch remains my time with the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack, which is certainly the most insane thing I’ve ever been trusted with for a watch review, and for sentimental reasons as well as just being an incredibly impressive piece of horological art, it’s probably among my favorite watches of all time. Today Moser launches a new tourbillon, in a new material, that has me thinking of that solid gold, Vantablack Streamliner once again. The Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic is the brand’s first ever watch in ceramic, and returns to the “Concept” dial format, something that inspires many hot takes on Instagram, but is a style I’ve always loved. The Streamliner is Moser’s sportiest watch, so it makes sense they’d debut an inherently sporty material on this platform. The 40mm case and bracelet are made entirely of ceramic in an anthracite gray color, and surfaces have been given a combination of satin finishing and polishing. Getting the finishing right on a high end ceramic watch is where the real “flex” i...
Monochrome
Just a couple of days after the publication of Vontobel’s Luxury Goods report, listing the 10 largest watch brands for 2025, as well as analysing the watch industry’s evolution over the last 12 months, it’s now time for another eagerly awaited report to be published. We’re talking about the in-depth annual analysis produced by Morgan […]
Monochrome
In just six years, H. Moser & Cie.’s fluid Streamliner luxury sports watch collection with integrated bracelets has grown exponentially. An indication of the roadmap Moser envisioned for the Streamliner, the first model of 2020 featured a sophisticated flyback chronograph. Now home to models ranging from central seconds to perpetual calendars and from small seconds […]
Worn & Wound
The official role of Heritage Director seems to be growing in prominence across watch brands. It makes sense – a reverence for history has always been at the heart of the art of watchmaking. With that in mind, it is likely there have long been resident historians at established maisons or perhaps even those holding the title Heritage Director working behind the scenes. But more and more, we are seeing these individuals at the forefront, and there seems to be a direct correlation with what is happening in the industry at large within the vintage and pre-owned spaces. For more than five years now, we have seen the vintage and pre-owned market grow in new ways with both a greater emphasis and prevalence of reputable dealers and marketplaces and a greater interest and demand from collectors. In turn, more and more brands seem to be getting invested in the acquisition, preservation, and in some cases redistribution of their own vintage pieces. While the role of Heritage Director was perhaps once limited to elements like museum curation and historically contextualizing modern collections, the position seems to be expanding into new realms. Heritage Director Matthieu Sauret Jaeger-LeCoultre is the perfect case study. Matthieu Sauret stepped from the role of Director of Product to the maison’s Heritage Director 2013 after starting his career at Yves Saint Laurent, another historic brand whose legacy spans more than six decades. “In 2019, Catherine Rénier, our CEO called...
Worn & Wound
Certain watch niches are riskier than others; for instance, seemingly every brand has tried a dive watch or chronograph because they are guaranteed crowd pleasers with straightforward functionality, whereas a world timer or moonphase complication is a little trickier to market to a general audience. In that corner of hyperniche sits the jumping hour watch, which to a non-watch nerd, is both visually and functionally baffling. But Bremont is no stranger to the jumping hour concept, having released successful models with the complication in the recent past. How have they fared with their latest iteration, the Terra Nova 38 Stealth Black? Let’s jump in and find out. While a seasoned horological expert may be familiar with a jumping hour complication, the casual shopper likely isn’t: basically, instead of displaying a sweeping hour hand, a jumping hour watch points to the current hour and “jumps” to the next hour once 60 minutes have elapsed. Conversely, it may instead display the hour in a window, with an imprinted disc moving below that ticks over to the next digit, much like a date window. The Stealth Black opts for the latter presentation, which gives it a clean, retro-futuristic design that differs from previous models in the brand’s jumping hour catalog, and their Terra Nova line more broadly. As the name suggests, the Stealth Black is characterized by its 38mm black DLC stainless steel case, finished in black diamond carbon-like coating, which gives it a sci-f...
Worn & Wound
The one handed watch is a curious thing. On the face of it, it seems illogical. On a mechanical watch, stripping away a more precise minute hand in favor of a single hour hand negates one of the things enthusiasts covet most: precision. Or, at least, the relative precision. Things like COSC certification and the hard work and ingenuity that go into making mechanical movements become secondary when you pull back sufficiently far from an ability to clock the time to the exact second (indeed, the COSC will not certify any watch without a seconds hand). But removing that hand is additive, as well. It forces the designer of a watch to think very critically about how that hand is going to tell the time, and the thing that actually defines one handed watches is not so much the fact that they only have a single hand, but the way in which that hand interacts with any timing markers on the dial. There are different approaches, of course. Avant-garde designs might strip out markers altogether, so that a dial’s texture or material can be the singular focus of a piece. This, to me, feels like the most jewelry oriented option possible. Another approach, and the one most often favored by Meistersinger, a brand known primarily for their one handed watches, is to focus like a laser on readability at a glance, designing markers and indices that are large enough and graduated to a degree that makes it relatively easy to get the precise time at a glance. I often think about the time I spe...
Monochrome
Founded by Andreas Felsl and Tzuyu Huang in 2007, Horage approached watchmaking from an unconventional angle: rather than starting with design and sourcing movements, the company began by developing in-house calibres. Now Horage has a portfolio built around modular movement families, the automatic K1, the micro-rotor K2, the K-TOU with a tourbillon regulator and K-TMR […]
Time+Tide
Jason Lee's hunt for a "Goldilocks" Panerai led him to the Luminor Venticinque PAM02025 - here's why it's so compelling.The post Finding my “one” Panerai: hands-on with the Luminor Venticinque PAM02025 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Today, we welcome the Year of the Fire Horse, and take the day off our usual publishing schedule to wish all our readers, friends and family a very Happy and Prosperous New Year! Gong Xi Fa Cai!
Monochrome
As we have seen recently, when we analysed the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry’s report and its export data, the watch industry isn’t at its best; exports are down, sales are declining for large conglomerates, and there are challenging times ahead for 2026. Outlooks remain cautious, as the industry is likely to continue facing […]
Worn & Wound
While design hallmarks have come and gone, few say “Grand Seiko” quite like the iconic Snowflake dial, first introduced in 2005. Inspired by the frosty Hotaka mountain range in the brand’s home prefecture, Nagano, light plays across the fine texture to emphasize the slight variations in depth on the surface of the dial. The result is nothing short of stunning, and helped shape Grand Seiko and their philosophy of the “Nature of Time”. So how do you build on an icon? You introduce tasteful variations. Easier said than done, of course, but Grand Seiko has done it successfully before, by introducing the Skyflake dial, a light blue version of the Snowflake. And now, we have two new Snowflake and Skyflake models to showcase the evolution of the icon: the SBGX359 and SBGX361, in a compact 33mm case, making them the smallest in the Grand Seiko 9F line yet. Even more impressive is the 9.1mm thickness, which is only possible thanks to the Caliber 9F51 quartz movement, which is the first new movement in the 9F line since 2020, and allows for an accuracy of ± 10 seconds a year. In natural Grand Seiko fashion, each movement is hand-assembled by watchmakers at the Shinshu Watch Studio at the brand’s Shiojiri facility and feature three-month aged quartz crystals and a manual regulation switch for accuracy fine-tuning during servicing. All of that is to say that this is not a basic quartz movement; it’s a Grand Seiko quartz movement, which is sure to excel in both function ...
SJX Watches
Industry price data provider EveryWatch has released its annual report on the state of the secondary market for luxury watches. The data confirms what many collectors already sense - the pre-owned watch market is booming, but the gains are concentrated in a small number of brands and references that are capturing the lion’s share of value, while the rest are left fighting over the scraps. Francis Ford Coppola’s personal F.P. Journe FFC prototype (left) sold for US$10.8 million, while his Chronomètre à Résonance sold for US$584,000 in December 2025. Image – Phillips Initial thoughts There are many reasons to be skeptical about much of the information gathered by industry data providers. For one thing, data gathered from dealers, internet listings, and auctions naturally misses the sizable proportion of transactions that happens offline. For another, the asking price is often easier to find than the clearing price, which tends to be lower. That’s not to say the data is unusable. On the contrary, the time series data gathered by data providers like WatchCharts can provide validation (or not) for anecdotal evidence and help collectors and dealers make more rational point-in-time decisions - if there is such a thing as a ‘rational’ watch purchase. What’s interesting is not necessarily that the market is estimated to be about US$20 billion in size, or that it’s growing at a rate in excess of 30% according to EveryWatch. What is more interesting is how the ...
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