Two Broke Watch Snobs
Alpina’s New Startimer Pilot Automatic Leans Further Into Its Military Watch Roots
Alpina updates the Startimer Pilot Automatic with a slimmer 40mm case, bolder applied numerals, and four new dial options.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Alpina updates the Startimer Pilot Automatic with a slimmer 40mm case, bolder applied numerals, and four new dial options.
Monochrome
The Grand Seiko Elegance Collection is home to some of the brand’s most restrained and poetic creations. Models such as the Omiwatari, Karasawa, and other hand-wound Spring Drive references demonstrate how minimalism, texture, and mechanical refinement can coexist. The new SBGY043 Iwao Blue keeps the successful, elegant formula that made earlier editions so attractive and […]
Deployant
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors We are now in Zenith, and had our hands-on with the Zenith new releases in WWG26. First an update to the G.F.J which was released last year. This year, it is released in yellow gold with a bloodstone dial and the sub-dial is now in a green backed mother of pearl. But my pick is [...] The post Live from WWG26: new release highlights from Zenith appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Monochrome
Last year, Roger Dubuis unveiled the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, a revival of a signature biretrograde complication co-patented by founder Roger Dubuis and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor) in 1989. Although this calendar version is simpler than the double retrograde QP the two men developed, it features the signature retrograde aesthetic intimately associated with Roger Dubuis. Following the […]
Worn & Wound
Hublot has never trafficked in subtlety. The Big Bang chronograph first made its presence known with a 44mm size, hefty ceramic bezel with contrasting screws, and a rare combination of rose gold and rubber, which contrasted different textures with clashing case finishes. So what if it had an ETA movement-which, at the time, seemed more plebeian than the in-house movements of rival luxury chronographs? In that maximalist, McBling era, the stance and the presence were all that mattered. Hublot has only taken its flagship model to more audacious heights. At this year’s Watches & Wonders Geneva, the Big Bang Reloaded enters the collection, following the 20-year anniversary of the Big Bang, by combining the intricate case with Hublot’s in-house chronograph movement, the Unico calibre, bringing together all the things that Big Bang enthusiasts love. The Reloaded exemplifies Hublot’s adherence to high-tech materials: available in titanium, scratch-resistant 18-karat “Magic Gold,” and three options of ceramic: black, blue, and dark green. The strap, still in textured rubber, matches the case colors. Hublot introduced its Unico calibre in 2010, and now the HUB 1280 UNICO makes an appearance from behind a skeletonized and multi-layered dial: redesigned to match the stencil-style numbers, a date window at between 4 and 5 o’clock, and horizontally-placed chronograph registers. It’s an automatic flyback chronograph, with 43 jewels and a power reserve of 72 hour...
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Deployant
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors This year, Chopard’s WWG26 crop comprise of updates to the Alpine Eagle and L.U.C collection as well as the Happy Sport Happy Hearts and L’Heure du diamant for the ladies. Here is our commentary in italics and the release for our top two. WWG26: highlights from the new offerings from Chopard Commentary Alpine Eagle 41 [...] The post WWG26: highlights from the new offerings from Chopard appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Monochrome
Since the third generation of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas arrived in 2016, the Maison has expanded the collection with everything from simple three-hand models to perpetual calendars and tourbillons. Yet for a watch originally designed with travel in mind, a basic second time zone display was missing. This was addressed in 2018 with the Overseas […]
Monochrome
Master watchmaker and restorer Michel Parmigiani’s original Toric QP Rétrograde was Parmigiani Fleurier’s foundational watch marking the brand’s launch in 1996. Following the appointment of Guido Terreni in 2021, many of Michel Parmigiani’s models were put on standby to allow Terreni to chart the brand’s new design direction, with a primary focus on the Tonda […]
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Overseas Dual Time “Cardinal Points”, a four-watch collection which can be traced back to the prototype that accompanied Cory Richards on his climb on Everest back in 2019. Initial thoughts The Overseas collection is Vacheron Constantin’s own take on the luxury sports steel watch. Compared to similar offerings from Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin actively advertises the Overseas as a timepiece fit to be worn adventurously. The 2019 collaboration with photographer and climber Cory Richards proved that the Overseas Dual Time is as comfortable on the peaks of Everest as it is navigating boardrooms. This “Cardinal Points” collection refines and finishes the the Dual Time prototype piece from 2019. The four new references each come in a different colour scheme evocative of one cardinal point. The functional styling of the Everest prototype was kept intact, but the additional dial colours help the Dual Time appeal to a broader audience. According to Vacheron Constantin, the white suggests the icy North, brown evokes the fertile lands of the South, green represents West with its forests and finally blue signifies the Eastern line of the horizon. Although these associations might feel a bit forced, the idea of linking the Overseas Dual Time with the cardinal points stems from the fact that such a travel watch usually accompanies a traveler - who is at least symbolically guided by a compass and the cardinal p...
Deployant
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors We got our hands on with our favourites from Piaget this WWG26, and here are the highlights. First up the Piaget Polo Signature, now the release with a stone solalite dial. The dial is made in gold with the gadroons which is inspired by the original Piaget Polo. Then the sodalite, a hard stone is [...] The post Live from WWG26: new releases of Piaget appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
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Monochrome
When IWC revived the Ingenieur in 2023, it did so by returning to Gérald Genta’s integrated-bracelet design, with functional screws, a structured dial and an emphasis on all things technical. Last year’s full-black ceramic Ingenieur Automatic 42 was quite exemplary. For 2026, IWC takes a more nuanced step with the Ingenieur Automatic 42 in dark […]
Time+Tide
A new quartz Riviera brings heavy vintage vibes with its sizing and styling, thanks to the thin quartz movement inside. The post Baume & Mercier references the Riviera’s origins with new quartz Riviera 73 models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The new Piaget Polo Signature models introduced at Watches and Wonders 2026 bring a historically inspired design element back to the contemporary Piaget Polo line. Two sets of his-and-hers versions and three rose gold variants get the gadroon treatment, a direct visual link to the original 1979 Polo concept. While it is perhaps a subtle […] Visit The Piaget Polo Signature Brings Gadroons To The Contemporary Polo Line to read the full article.
Deployant
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Ferdinand Berthoud flipped their movement released 10 years ago in the FB 1. The new watch is Chapter 1 Chronomètre FB 2TV is like an inverted version of the FB 1. But of course, as this is a Ferdinand Berthoud, the entire movement is reworked to flip over, and the entire movement is now visible [...] The post Live from WWG26: the new release from Ferdinand Berthoud appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Fratello
Alpina revisits one of its most recognizable collections with a fresh update for 2026. The Startimer enters a new era with refined proportions and enhanced legibility. Most notably, Alpina reduces the overall case size by 10 percent. The stainless steel case now measures 40mm in diameter and just 10.14mm thick. As a result, the watch […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic Collection to read the full article.
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Fratello
I am a fan of Formex. I like that the brand attempts to create the best-built watch within its chosen price category. The designs aren’t for everyone, but the build quality is undoubtedly excellent. I’ve had hands-on experience with Formex’s Field and Reef models. On both counts, they left me impressed, particularly given their asking […] Visit Introducing: The Formex Reef 39.5mm Automatic COSC 300M Forged Carbon to read the full article.
Monochrome
Collaborations in watchmaking are nothing new, and the 1902 Synergy by Peter Speake builds on that idea by taking Schwarz Etienne’s 1902 collection and bringing in an independent watchmaker to work on it. In this case, the base is the 1902 Réserve de Marche, a watch built around traditional hand-wound mechanics and following on from […]
Fratello
Jaeger‑LeCoultre reshapes the Master Control line with three new Chronometre models in two materials. The collection takes inspiration from the integrated case and bracelet first seen on the Master Mariner Chronomètre in 1973. This time, the execution feels thoroughly modern and far more refined. The lineup includes the 38mm time-and-date model, a 39mm version with […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Collection to read the full article.
Hodinkee
On the back of the brand's creative GMT Rattrapante and Minute Rattrapante, the brand launches an in-house chronograph with an impressive secret.
Monochrome
Bulgari returns to Watches & Wonders this year with several re-editions of its Octo Finissimo Automatic, in more compact 37mm case sizes and powered by the new BVF micro-rotor automatic movement. Somewhat surreptitiously, though, Bulgari has also slipped in an Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater in a 37mm case. The more compact sibling of the 2016 […]
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Monochrome
The Reverso has lent itself to artistic expression quite naturally. Since its creation in 1931, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s reversible case has provided a perfect canvas for decoration, engraving and enamel work. In recent years, the Manufacture and its Métiers Rares atelier used this possibility extensively and offered tributes to the Japanese artist Katsushika Hokusai. Following earlier interpretations […]
Worn & Wound
Oris first introduced its Artelier Complication in 1991 alongside the Caliber 581, which notably featured a moonphase module developed in-house by the brand. The release marked another significant moment for the maison in its commitment to manufacture movements following the quartz crisis. The model’s presence ultimately faded but received new life in 2017 with an updated design that featured a more modern, cleaner style with slimmer, tapered lugs, and a redesigned bezel. At Watches & Wonders, we get the next evolution of the Artelier Complication. The newest incarnation gives us another redesign from the 2017 edition while keeping the focus on highlighting the romantic moonphase. This updated take on the Artelier Complication comes from 24-year-old Lena Huwiler, Oris’s new Product Design Engineer. Huwiler has been able to achieve the perfect balance between honoring the model’s place in the history of the brand and propelling it forward with a design that will resonate with her generation. An old soul at heart, Huwiler admits she does not just find inspiration online but still appreciates architecture, crafts, and interior design. She clearly brings the duality of these sensibilities into her design for the new Artelier Complication. Here, Huwiler has given an Oris classic a modern, urban profile and reworked the moonphase display designed by and for the next generation of watch collectors. The major update here is in the complication and how it is presented thank...
Deployant
Live hands on with the Angelus, a quarter repeater. The watch is available in rose gold and stainless steel case, with a case size of 38mm diameter.
SJX Watches
A noteworthy release for W&W; 2026, the new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic delivers on the promise of a full ceramic bracelet. The stealthy model distills from Tudor’s expertise working with industrial ceramics and completes the fully black look for the beloved diver’s watch. Initial thoughts Although I’m not too partial of ceramic watches in general, this latest edition of the Black Bay might be among the best offerings on the market. With a full ceramic construction (save from some strategic steel components) the timepiece captures the “black-out” theme perfectly. There is a strong market for all-black timepieces and Tudor’s latest Black Bay Ceramic is a solid proposition. Tudor’s quality is generally unmatched in their price category and the Black Bay Ceramic is one of the more affordable ceramic-cased timepieces. The new bracelet and clasp also add considerably to the value of the watch and complete the look. Having handled the piece personally I can confidently say the bracelet wears light and comfortable. The clasp action is sturdy, but somehow doesn’t covey the sense of security the heftier T-Fit clasp does. It’s not that the lock isn’t reliable - it really is - but a butterfly-style clasp just feels off on a diver watch. This new Black Bay Ceramic follows the newer Black Bay design language, with the slimmer crown and slimmer profile. Since it remains part of the Black Bay line, this can be considered a tool watch, but the ceramic casing mig...
SJX Watches
A noteworthy release for W&W; 2026, the new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic (ref. 7941A1ACNU) delivers on the promise of a full ceramic bracelet. The stealthy model distills from Tudor’s expertise working with industrial ceramics and completes the fully black look for the beloved diver’s watch. Initial thoughts Although I’m not too partial of ceramic watches in general, this latest edition of the Black Bay might be among the best offerings on the market. With a full ceramic construction (save from some strategic steel components) the timepiece captures the “black-out” theme perfectly. There is a strong market for all-black timepieces and Tudor’s latest Black Bay Ceramic is a solid proposition. Tudor’s quality is generally unmatched in their price category and the Black Bay Ceramic is one of the more affordable ceramic-cased timepieces. The new bracelet and clasp also add considerably to the value of the watch and complete the look. Having handled the piece personally I can confidently say the bracelet wears light and comfortable. The clasp action is sturdy, but somehow doesn’t covey the sense of security the heftier T-Fit clasp does. It’s not that the lock isn’t reliable — it really is — but a butterfly-style clasp just feels off on a diver watch. This new Black Bay Ceramic follows the newer Black Bay design language, with the slimmer crown and slimmer profile. Since it remains part of the Black Bay line, this can be considered a tool watch, but the ...
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