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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Building a Carry: My EDC Essentials Worn & Wound
Ming Mar 15, 2024

Building a Carry: My EDC Essentials

It’s slightly ironic, but being into everyday carry has caused me not to have a true EDC. After years of collecting, I’ve amassed a collection of gear that allows me to swap out key pieces, depending on the tasks I expect to encounter. What you’ll find below are categories of gear that I carry daily. Starting from the pack and working my way in, you’ll see how I organize and store my gear so that it’s easily reached and ready for use when needed. Some of these items may sound a bit strange, but they all work together to create an entire “carry system” that helps me solve 90% of the problems I encounter daily.  Bag A high-quality pack is the foundation of my EDC, and it has the potential to make or break my entire system. I have three main criteria for my packs: it has to look good, have a functional layout, and be made from durable materials. With these criteria in mind, I have a small rotation of packs that serve different purposes. The first pack I frequently use is a GORUCK Heritage GR1 in an olive colorway. This is the largest pack I carry, coming in at 26 liters in capacity. I love the waxed canvas and leather look and the open main compartment allows me to stack pouches and other items inside as needed. Having a dedicated Quick Access Pocket (AKA, a QAP) gives me a convenient spot to stash my keys and earbuds. Thanks to the waxed canvas fabric, this bag will continuously patina and look even better as it ages.  Another pack that I use regularly is the...

Taking The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Utility LE For A Ride Fratello
Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Utility LE Mar 15, 2024

Taking The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Utility LE For A Ride

Tiger bites kill, but marmot bites are just a tad annoying. Porsche Design decided to reimagine a military chronograph of the 1970s and position it in a more peaceful, civilian way. So the original U.S. Air Force tiger’s head made way for a screaming marmot. The medium-sized rodent is called a “Mankei” in Pinzgau, Austria. […] Visit Taking The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Utility LE For A Ride to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar - A Real Gentleman’s Chronograph Fratello
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Mar 15, 2024

Hands-On With The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar - A Real Gentleman’s Chronograph

I think we can all agree here that the Zenith Chronomaster Original is already one of the best-looking chronographs out there. Adding the calendar and moonphase complications on top could’ve ended in absolute disaster. However, it certainly didn’t - quite the opposite, actually. When the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar launched a little over a month […] Visit Hands-On With The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar - A Real Gentleman’s Chronograph to read the full article.

Hands On: The Longines Conquest Chronograph 42 mm SJX Watches
Longines Conquest Chronograph 42 mm Mar 15, 2024

Hands On: The Longines Conquest Chronograph 42 mm

Longines facelifted the Conquest Chronograph last year, giving it more vintage flavour while retaining the sporty style of its predecessor and also the slightly-too-big case. The new look is reminiscent of a more famous sports chronograph, but compared to its predecessor, the new Conquest is more coherent. Initial thoughts At a distance, the Conquest Chronograph bears a striking resemblance to the modern Rolex Daytona, which is unsurprising given the commercial success of the Cosmograph (hence Zenith’s Chronomaster Sport as well). But in the hand it is clearly a larger, chunkier watch than its famous rival, and upon closer inspection, the dial design is also distinct with several interesting details. The previous Conquest tried to be different and ended up being too much. That design was characterised by an oversized “12” that was recognisable but not sophisticated. Although the resemblance to the modern Daytona is apparent at a distance, the dial gets more interesting up close (and also gives off some Paul Newman vibes). The new Conquest has a cleaner dial design with a slightly retro style thanks to a sector-like chapter ring. It does without a date, something purists will approve of. Although all four dial colours share the same design, two stand out. The champagne dial is a unique colour for a sports chronograph in this price segment, while the silver dial has just the right amount of red accents, with the red-outlined luminous squares being particularly interest...

Hands-On With Three Stylish Forstner Bracelets For The Tudor Black Bay Pro Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Pro It Mar 14, 2024

Hands-On With Three Stylish Forstner Bracelets For The Tudor Black Bay Pro

It is no secret that I enjoy the Tudor Black Bay Pro. It is at the top of my list of watches to buy, and hopefully, that won’t take too long anymore. But as long as it’s not part of my collection, I’ll jump on any occasion to wear the watch and get confirmation that […] Visit Hands-On With Three Stylish Forstner Bracelets For The Tudor Black Bay Pro to read the full article.

William Wood’s Fire Exit Watch is a Truly Original Take on a Traditional Calendar Worn & Wound
Mar 14, 2024

William Wood’s Fire Exit Watch is a Truly Original Take on a Traditional Calendar

I have a complicated relationship with Day displays. So often, they’re crammed onto the dial, take up too much space, they don’t add much to the functionality of a watch - I frequently don’t know the date, I very rarely don’t know what day of the week it is - and throw everything out of balance. My… distaste for day-of-the-week displays (and frankly the complication as a whole) is why I prefer the Datejust to the Day-Date and have never kept an SKX for longer than a few months. Still, every so often, some brand comes along and does something so clever I can’t ignore it. Here, with the new Fire Exit Watch from William Wood Watches, we find clever in full supply. Those familiar with William Wood Watches will know that the brand draws heavy inspiration from the history (and materials) of firefighting, and the brand supports a number of firefighting charities. While most William Wood Watches draw their firefighting inspiration from firefighters and their equipment, the Fire Exit Watch draws from an oft-overlooked piece of fire safety gear, the emergency exit sign. Specifically, the Fire Exit Watch is based on the globally ubiquitous ISO standard (yes, they standardize more than dive watches!) green “Fire Exit Man” signs. Those of us who spend most of our time in the United States may be shocked to discover that, as with the metric system, most of the rest of the world has gotten on board with a single style of exit sign. With the Fire Exit Watch, William W...

Introducing - The Stylish Ice Blue Dial of the Mido Multifort M Freeze Monochrome
Mido Multifort M Freeze Mido Mar 14, 2024

Introducing - The Stylish Ice Blue Dial of the Mido Multifort M Freeze

Mido has done a commendable job updating its Multifort collection to 21st-century technical standards and contemporary tastes. As the brand’s best-selling automatic model from 1934, boasting resistance to magnetism, shocks and water, the refreshed Multifort M is a rugged, accessibly priced, all-terrain watch powered by Swatch Group’s Powermatic 80 movement. An attractive new dial colour […]

A Quick Look At The New Seiko Presage Classic Series Two Broke Watch Snobs
Grand Seiko announced Mar 13, 2024

A Quick Look At The New Seiko Presage Classic Series

While I'm not one to usually find myself swooning over a new dress watch, I have to call out a nice release when I see it. The same thing happened when Grand Seiko announced the new SBGX355 ... drool. But now we're seeing something cool in a lower price tier from Seiko: the new Seiko Presage Classic series. I usually ignore the Presage collection outright (all that comes to mind are the Cocktail Time watches, which I can't stand). However, with these new Presage models, we see an interesting incorporation of Japanese culture into the design, and I can get behind it.

Hands-On: The Latest Fortis Marinemaster M-40 Models In Four New Colorways Fratello
Fortis Marinemaster M-40 Models Mar 13, 2024

Hands-On: The Latest Fortis Marinemaster M-40 Models In Four New Colorways

I mainly associate Fortis with its different watches created for use in space. But there is more to the brand than just those. The Fortis M-40 is a versatile tool watch for diving or adventures out in the wild. It has appropriate specs to make it a versatile piece that will serve you in various […] Visit Hands-On: The Latest Fortis Marinemaster M-40 Models In Four New Colorways to read the full article.

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour Mar 13, 2024

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour

A watch that exemplifies the ambitious vertical integration of Louis Vuitton’s watch division, the Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Plique-à-Jour combines a skeleton tourbillon movement with a plique-à-jour enamel dial. Transparent and akin to stained glass, plique-à-jour enamel is rare in watchmaking, with only a handful of brands having accomplished it. But this specific form on the Voyager tourbillon, which goes without any backing under the dial, is even more uncommon. Because there is no base for the dial, the transparency of both the dial and the movement is maximised. Initial thoughts The original version of this watch, essentially identical but without the enamel dial, was launched in 2016. Louis Vuitton didn’t get much attention as a watchmaker then, though I liked the watch, particularly the slim profile and open-worked movement made by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). The quality of the watch indicated Louis Vuitton was going places as a watch brand. Louis Vuitton has come a long way since then as a watchmaker. It now boasts several automaton wristwatches, the Rexhep Rexhepi RR01 collaboration, and its own prize for independent watchmakers. Appropriately enough, the Voyager tourbillon has been enhanced, reflecting the substantial expansion and development of LFT since 2016. The movement, dial, and case are all made in-house at LFT, reflecting Louis Vuitton’s impressive manufacture that now rivals some of the most prominent names in haute horlog...

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Guide Mar 12, 2024

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Guide

In their relatively short tenure on the international market, Seiko’s Presage “Cocktail Time” watches have already established themselves in the minds of many enthusiasts as one of the watch industry’s very best value prospects in the realm of automatic dress watches - boasting in-house movements, high-end finishing, and the colorful dials that lend them their nicknames, each inspired by concoctions from Japan’s world-famous high-end cocktail bars. Here is a guide to the Seiko “Cocktail Time,” with highlights and milestones from the modern collection. Happy Hour in Japan Seiko served up the first round of its “Cocktail Time” watches exclusively to customers in Japan. The first of these  “JDM” (Japan Domestic Market) models debuted in 2010 and carried the Reference number SARB065. Now discontinued (and accordingly in high demand by collectors), this watch (above) and its siblings, the SARB066 and SARB068, featured 40mm cases in stainless steel, which were fairly thick at 13.3mm high. The movement inside the cases was Seiko’s Caliber 6R15, with bidirectional automatic winding, a 50-hour power reserve, and an impressive resistance to magnetic fields of 4,800 A/m.  Unlike the many Presage models that followed, the originals were not nicknamed after specific cocktail concoctions but simply for different styles: the SARB065 with its ice-blue dial was “Cool,” the SARB066 with a pale, cream-colored dial was “Dry,” and the reddish brown dial of t...

Hands-On: the Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s titanium finishing Mar 12, 2024

Hands-On: the Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium

Somehow, to this point, I’ve avoided taking a stand in the ongoing conversation in our ranks about the merits of titanium. Zach Weiss, our cofounder, is an unabashed fan, and confidently declares at every opportunity that all watches might as well be made of the stuff. Our friend Taylor Welden at Carryology takes it a step further, and said he’d happily eat little titanium chips if given the chance. No one’s titanium journey on this team has been more closely watched than Kat Shoulders’ though, who was first a skeptic, then an adopter, and now, well, her stance continues to evolve.  For my part, I guess I don’t have a strong opinion either way. I have nothing against titanium watches at all, and I’ve owned several, but it’s not, in general, a material I seek out. I think it’s because as a metal, it tends to not have the characteristics I like most. I like elaborate, complex case finishing, and a bit of weight. I tend to prefer steel’s glassy shine to titanium’s grays. There are exceptions, of course. Grand Seiko’s titanium finishing is notable in that it has many of the qualities of steel. And some watches just work better when they are feather light.  $11800 Hands-On: the Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium Case Titanium Movement El Primero 3600 Dial Gray Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Titanium bracelet Water Resistance 10 ATM Dimensions 41 x 46.8mm Thickness 13.6mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $11800 The new Chronomaster Sport f...