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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.

Grand Seiko’s Smallest High-End Quartz Models Yet SJX Watches
Grand Seiko s Smallest High-End Quartz Feb 12, 2026

Grand Seiko’s Smallest High-End Quartz Models Yet

Grand Seiko has installed its high-end quartz calibre 9F in a 33 mm stainless steel case with fan-favourite textured dials, making one of the most advanced analogue quartz movements available in the smallest and slimmest format to date. The compact proportions of the Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Quartz 33mm “Snowflake” SBGX359 and “Skyflake” SBGX361 are possible thanks to a new member of the 9F family: the cal. 9F51. Though smaller, the new calibre retains all the technical bells and whistles of this class-leading quartz platform. Ref. SBGX359 (Snowflake). Initial thoughts While Grand Seiko’s quartz models are generally known as good value propositions, with the cal. 9F in particular representing a lot of movement for the money, that has generally been less true of the brand’s smaller models. These maintain the brand’s standout case and dial work but with relatively pedestrian cal. 4J movements. Though above average in terms of quality and technology, the cal. 4J lacks the torque necessary to accommodate the exceptionally large and refined hands found on most Grand Seikos. Ref. SBGX361 (Skyflake). Given the brand’s recent emphasis on Spring Drive technology, seemingly at the expense of battery-powered quartz movements, that seemed unlikely to change. In this context, this duo is a pleasant surprise, with more likely to follow, and offers a no-compromise Grand Seiko experience in a smaller size without the high price tags of the ladies automatic line. A ...

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 38 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 38 mm Feb 12, 2026

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 38 mm

Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 has spent much of its life living in the shadow of the Royal Oak, but the latest 38 mm iteration suggests the collection might be finding its footing. The smaller Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding 38 mm refines the line’s distinctive case architecture with more convincing proportions, slimmer leather straps, and richly textured embossed dials. Neither overtly sporty nor conventionally dressy, the 18k rose gold Code 11.59 positions itself as a modern dress watch with real character that is quite convincing on the wrist. Initial thoughts It’s no secret that the Code 11.59 lives in the shadow of AP’s flagship product, the Royal Oak. In the seven years since its debut, the Code has yet to have its breakout moment. Many may remember the troubled launch of the collection, which met with an unnecessarily negative response from the market. But there’s a thin line between love and hate, and AP has been steadily improving the proportions, textures, materials, and complications over the past few years, and the tipping point could be imminent. The Code claims the middle ground in the false dichotomy between dressy and sporty, which makes it difficult for casual enthusiasts and collectors to fully understand. The 38 mm size, now with a new strap design, helps position the Code more concretely in the the dress watch camp, where its 9.6 mm thickness and 30 m water resistance rating feel more appropriate. Despite the criticism that’s been l...

Best Bronze Watches for 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Ming Feb 10, 2026

Best Bronze Watches for 2026

If there is one element of watch ownership that speaks to the human psyche more than almost any other, it's the notion that what you wear is unique to you. And it's true, there simply isn't another watch out there with your dings in the case or your aged strap. No material creates such allure through the aging process as bronze. And watch designers have known this for some time. With wear, your bronze watch case will evolve far quicker and more obviously than any steel case (swimming in salt water really speeds things up!). Bronze is a copper alloy generally containing around 12% tin. Its discovery dates back several millennium BC. Before giving way to cheaper iron and stronger steel, the Bronze Age lasted almost three millennia. Bronze possesses a number of advantageous properties. And the versatility of its application has continued its use right up to modern day. One of those properties is its resistance to salt water corrosion. Typically, when exposed, bronze only oxidizes at the surface, forming a protective layer over the underlying metal. In the past, this made bronze the material of choice for boat and ship fittings. (Prior to the wide employment of stainless steel.) It also featured in early diving equipment. More recently, it has spurred a growing trend of tool watches. Not all bronze watches are created equal though. That’s why we’ve put together this hand-picked selection of some of, what we feel are, the best bronze watches for 2026 - enjoy! [toc-section h...

Vacheron Constantin Introduces A New Overseas Tourbillon In Titanium With A Deep Red Dial Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Feb 7, 2026

Vacheron Constantin Introduces A New Overseas Tourbillon In Titanium With A Deep Red Dial

Vacheron Constantin unveils a new Overseas Tourbillon model with a captivating deep red sunburst dial. The aperture at 6 o’clock provides an unobstructed view of the tourbillon regulator, with the 22K gold peripheral rotor allowing light through the case back’s sapphire display. This model is the third iteration of the Overseas Tourbillon in a Grade […] Visit Vacheron Constantin Introduces A New Overseas Tourbillon In Titanium With A Deep Red Dial to read the full article.

Is The Baume & Mercier Clifton The Perfect Gentleman’s Watch? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Baume & Mercier Clifton Feb 6, 2026

Is The Baume & Mercier Clifton The Perfect Gentleman’s Watch? (Hands-On)

Though the aftershocks of news surrounding Baume & Mercier is still being felt, does their new Clifton keep the ball rolling? Let’s find out! What We Love: Elegant, slim case silhouette One of the comfiest bracelets I’ve ever worn Baumatic = Best value? What We Don’t: Fairly ordinary appearance, not for those wanting dramatic flair Bracelet finishing invites scratches and smudges Crown operation feels off Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 Is the dress watch dead? Both Matt and I have attempted to answer this question on separate occasions. Matt argued that, in the contemporary space, the dress watch has fallen out of favour. I, on the other hand, believe dress watches remain prevalent and are thriving within the accessible segment of quartz timepieces. However, there are still a handful of brands that have committed themselves to collections defined by elegant aesthetics and attainable price points. One of these brands, Raymond Weil, is one we’ve discussed extensively, but they are far from the only player in this market. WATCH EDUCATION: An Introduction Into Baume & Mercier Founded in 1830, Baume & Mercier has maintained a notable presence within this relatively accessible tier of luxury watchmaking. A long-time subsidiary of the Richemont Group since 1988, the brand has used this period to develop watches that are balanced yet distinctive, both in design and mechanics. While the Riviera collection...

Introducing - The New Sarpaneva Stardust Pluto and Stardust Mars Monochrome
Sarpaneva Feb 6, 2026

Introducing - The New Sarpaneva Stardust Pluto and Stardust Mars

Since founding Sarpaneva Watches in Helsinki, the independent Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has consistently explored an approach shaped by the Nordic visual universe, mechanical honesty and a powerful sense of narrative. Best known for his Korona case design and expressive moon displays, Sarpaneva has built a recognisable catalogue which offers a combination of traditional watchmaking […]

Introducing - The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38mm in Pink Gold Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38mm Feb 4, 2026

Introducing - The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38mm in Pink Gold

Audemars Piguet introduced the Code 11.59 in 2019, emerging as a contemporary AP-style expression of classic watchmaking. Over the years, the line has matured, expanded and reviewed its proportions. Introduced in 2023, the 38mm case offered a more compact and versatile interpretation of the Code 11.59 design. In early 2026, the brand presents two new […]

Audemars Piguet’s 150 Heritage is a Universal Cultural Calendar SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s 150 Heritage Feb 3, 2026

Audemars Piguet’s 150 Heritage is a Universal Cultural Calendar

Audemars Piguet celebrated 150 years of existence in 2025, but its celebrations have continued into the new year with the 150 Heritage Pocket Watch. While many large ultra-complicated pocket watches are exercises in nostalgia, the 150 Heritage is a modern marvel of micro-mechanical engineering with never-before-seen functionality inside a surprisingly compact 50 mm case. Initial thoughts Few brands can match Audemars Piguet’s track record of producing Grand Complication pocket watches, but the 150 Heritage surprises by adapting a calibre originally intended for the wrist. A complicated pocket watch with a simple name, the 150 Heritage is built around the cal. 1150, a newly developed hand-wound movement that adapts the architecture of the ambitious cal. 1000 developed for the Code 11.59 Universelle, and as such it includes past RD-series innovations. That said, the differences between the Universelle and the 150 Heritage are quite significant, thanks to an intriguing new feature: a hinged mechanical calculator, isolated from the movement. The intricate system is housed inside the case back and allows the user to effortlessly cycle through dates across any year to be able to read a surprising number of culturally-relevant dates based on lunar, solar and lunisolar cycles.  The device feels a bit like a time machine, as the lucky owner can go into the past or look into the future and find out the exact dates of Catholic Easter, Ramadan, Equinoxes and many others, along with...

A Wave Of Five New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Variations Hits Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Variations Feb 3, 2026

A Wave Of Five New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Variations Hits

What’s my favorite version of the Royal Oak Offshore after the illustrious “Beast”? This might surprise you, but I always thought the three-hand diver was a very good watch. The dial, free of cluttering sub-dials, and the crown that rotates the inner dive bezel on the side of the 42mm case looked cool, clean, and […] Visit A Wave Of Five New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Variations Hits to read the full article.

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Tourbillon Titanium Red Dial SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Overseas Tourbillon Titanium Feb 3, 2026

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Tourbillon Titanium Red Dial

Vacheron Constantin’s latest Overseas Tourbillon pairs a titanium case with a deep red dial, recalling last year’s perpetual calendar, showcasing the cal. 2160 with peripheral rotor, refined finishing, and a slow beating one minute tourbillon. It represents the finest of industrial fine watchmaking with high-end construction inside and out. Initial Thoughts Last August Vacheron Constantin launched a pair of new Overseas Perpetual Calendars, one in burgundy and the other pink-on-pink. I felt the “deep red” dial – as Vacheron Constantin calls it – works particularly well against the white gold case, and the light blue accents were a nice touch. Nothing has changed on that front, the colour pallette looks just as good now as it did then, but is now lighter, thanks to the titanium case, and equipped more impressive movement. While the Overseas Perpetual’s movement somewhat lags behind its competition, the Overseas Tourbillon has a more competitive calibre, which holds its own against the Royal Oak Tourbillons, and wins by default against the non-existent Nautilus Tourbillon. That said, it is hardly a value within its segment, with estimated pricing comparable to Audemars Piguet’s blue-chip Royal Oak Tourbillons, though that is more than fair when you put aside brand caché and focus purely on the product. Case and Bracelet The Overseas case is well made and well finished by any standard, though not quite as complex as its counterparts from Audemars Piguet and P...

Introducing: Two New Hermès Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune Watches In Titanium And Platinum Fratello
Hermes Feb 2, 2026

Introducing: Two New Hermès Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune Watches In Titanium And Platinum

Hermès expands the Squelette Lune range with two new titanium and platinum models displaying the lunar cycle as seen from both the Northern and Southern Hemispheres. The earlier Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune combined a 39.5mm bead‑blasted Grade 5 titanium case with a polished platinum bezel. The new releases, however, take this concept further. One watch […] Visit Introducing: Two New Hermès Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune Watches In Titanium And Platinum to read the full article.

Why I Bought A Third-Generation Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Over The New Version Fratello
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Jan 31, 2026

Why I Bought A Third-Generation Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Over The New Version

Recently, I bought an Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M with a 43.5mm all-brushed steel case and a sandblasted gunmetal-gray dial. This purchase came after the launch of the fully revamped Planet Ocean. With the fourth generation’s sharper facets, redesigned bracelet with polished center links, slimmer profile, and importantly, no helium escape valve (HEV) at the […] Visit Why I Bought A Third-Generation Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Over The New Version to read the full article.

eBay Finds: Seamasters Galore and More! Worn & Wound
Omega Seamaster DeVille  First up Jan 30, 2026

eBay Finds: Seamasters Galore and More!

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille  First up this week we have a fresh and beautiful vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille dress watch. The 34mm yellow gold cap case is in nice shape, with classic 1960s slim lugs. The steel back has a nice, deeply engraved Hippocampus logo medallion. The case is a front-loading type, but this time the seller was kind enough to remove the movement so we can see that pink gold automatic caliber 563 beauty. The movement is clean and runs well per the seller. The serial number on the movement dates this one to 1967. The silver dial has an elegant linen finish to it, with gold stick markers and slim gold stick hands. There is of course a date window at 3 o’clock. The dial is super clean and looks original to me. The crown is correct for this model and signed with the Omega logo as it should. Even the acrylic crystal is signed with the Omega logo on the underside of the middle, which is always a huge plus. Great looking original vintage Seamaster DeVille dress watch. View auction here 1960s Wittnauer “Mystery Dial”  Here is a spectacular vintage Wittnauer “mystery dial” watch. The mystery dial is a design where the minute hand is normal, but the hour hand ...

Hands-On With The Redesigned Maen Hudson 38 MK5 Fratello
Maen Hudson 38 MK5 Working Jan 28, 2026

Hands-On With The Redesigned Maen Hudson 38 MK5

Working in this industry, I sometimes find it strange how I can go for so long without trying a watch that has been available for years. That’s the case with the Maen Hudson diver. The Stockholm-based brand with Dutch roots first introduced the Hudson in 2018. The modern dive watch has evolved, and almost eight […] Visit Hands-On With The Redesigned Maen Hudson 38 MK5 to read the full article.

Eighties Luxe: Piaget Polo 79 Two-Tone SJX Watches
Piaget Polo 79 Two-Tone Having Jan 28, 2026

Eighties Luxe: Piaget Polo 79 Two-Tone

Having already launched it in yellow gold and then white gold, Piaget has logically followed up with the Polo 79 Two-Tone. While very much predictable, the Polo 79 Two-Tone is arguably the best looking of the trio with its retro combination of metals that are yellow and white gold, and not steel. The new Polo 79 is otherwise identical to its predecessors, right down to the cal. 1200P movement and “slotted” construction of the case and bracelet. Initial thoughts The Polo 79 Two-Tone isn’t a surprise but it’s a good looking watch that has more appeal than its single-colour counterparts. The combination of yellow and white gold feels distinctly 1980s and true to the spirit of the watch. Though not imaginative, the Polo 79 is solidly executed in any of its forms. The case and bracelet are done well, while the cal. 1200P is a tried-and-tested workhorse that is also impressively thin; it’s a little industrial but acceptable overall. The cal. 1200P The fact that the two-tone model is two colours of gold, rather than steel and gold, is a nice touch. But that means it is expensive, even more expensive than the single-tone versions that are already pricey. This costs US$91,000, while the yellow gold model is US$77,000. The price premium doesn’t really make sense since it’s essentially the same thing in terms of gold value and finishing (though it is arguable that white gold costs a little more than yellow). The Polo 79 line-up Polo glamour The two-tone Polo is hardly a...

Hands-On With The Striking Titanium Toledano & Chan B/1.3r Fratello
Jan 26, 2026

Hands-On With The Striking Titanium Toledano & Chan B/1.3r

Sometimes you run into watches that are in a different category of appreciation. The moment I saw the inaugural Toledano & Chan B/1 with the lapis lazuli dial, it triggered my appreciation for design, not only in watches but also in general. The beautifully sculpted case, wonderfully detailed bracelet, and stunning lapis lazuli dial made […] Visit Hands-On With The Striking Titanium Toledano & Chan B/1.3r to read the full article.

Inflection: Atelier Wen’s Groundbreaking Full-Tantalum Flagship Quill & Pad
Atelier Wen s Groundbreaking Full-Tantalum Flagship Jan 24, 2026

Inflection: Atelier Wen’s Groundbreaking Full-Tantalum Flagship

The Inflection by Atelier Wen makes a striking statement with its tantalum case, a rare, durable metal with a naturally dark, steely hue that evolves beautifully over time. It’s a watch that feels as unique to the wrist as it is in the light, turning material innovation into art. The post Inflection: Atelier Wen’s Groundbreaking Full-Tantalum Flagship appeared first on Quill & Pad.

Fears Unveils their Limited Edition Release for British Watchmakers’ Day Worn & Wound
Fears Unveils their Limited Edition Jan 23, 2026

Fears Unveils their Limited Edition Release for British Watchmakers’ Day

For the third year in a row, Fears will introduce a limited edition watch to be sold exclusively at British Watchmakers’ Day, which this year occurs on March 7. It continues a theme established in 2024 of using 925 Sterling Silver for the case material, a flourish that feels special and, somehow, quintessentially British. This year’s limited edition piece, the Brunswick 40 1846 Edition, debuts a new case design as well as a special lacquer dial made just for this year’s LE. It’s also an anniversary piece, as this year marks the 180th anniversary of brand founder Edwin Fear opening his first watchmaking workshop in Bristol in 1846.  This Brunswick 40 case is polished on all sides, taking full advantage of the natural lustre of 925 sterling silver. It’s also engraved with the initials of Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the brand’s managing director, which is a nod to a tradition started with the first silver pocket watch made by Edwin Fear. Additionally, like previous British Watchmakers’ Day editions in silver, the crown is set with a single diamond to note that the case is constructed from a precious metal.  Diving into the specs, it’s worth noting that the case of this Brunswick 40 is very slightly thinner than the standard issue version. Per the spec sheet, this LE measures in at 11.1mm tall, while the typical Brunswick 40 is 11.9mm in height. That difference, you won’t be surprised to learn, likely comes down to the use of a manually wound movement in this...

Introducing: Three Complicated Louis Vuitton Escale Watches - The Escale Minute Repeater, Worldtime Flying Tourbillon, And Twin Zone Fratello
Louis Vuitton Escale Watches - Jan 22, 2026

Introducing: Three Complicated Louis Vuitton Escale Watches - The Escale Minute Repeater, Worldtime Flying Tourbillon, And Twin Zone

In the case of this trio of new Louis Vuitton watches, it’s good to know what the name means. Escale, in French, means “stopover.” LV made a name for itself by producing luxury luggage and steamer trunks. And the art of travel is what served as inspiration for the relaunched Escale models that debuted in […] Visit Introducing: Three Complicated Louis Vuitton Escale Watches - The Escale Minute Repeater, Worldtime Flying Tourbillon, And Twin Zone to read the full article.

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Original Unico Worn & Wound
Hublot Introduces Jan 20, 2026

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Original Unico

Sometimes an anniversary release isn’t actually released for the anniversary itself. Case in point: the new Big Bag Original Unico from Hublot. Last year, as readers will likely remember, Hublot focused on the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang, which launched in 2005 and began something of a wild ride for Hublot among watch aficionados with what would become their signature product. The Big Bang Original Unico is dressed in the clothes of an anniversary piece but comes one year later, and according to Hublot represents a return to the origins of the Big Bang. Fair enough!  The conceit here is that the Big Bang Original Unico “carries the Big Bang legacy into the next era” and features a variety of both mechanical as well as aesthetic upgrades. For one, the case now sits at 43mm, a middle ground between the 41mm and 44mm case sizes of past references. Case lines have been slightly softened for better ergonomics and wearability, as well as a more organic look overall. The lugs are a little more curved, and there’s now a beveled edge that lends a little hint of refinement to a piece that, frankly, has not frequently been associated with that concept. This feels like a less aggressive, slightly more subdued version of Hublot’s Big Bang chrono. My personal preferences when it comes to Hublot veer toward the more extravagant and avant-garde, but as we’ve seen with other LVMH Watch Week releases this year, it feels like a time for these brands to play to a wider audie...

Louis Vuitton Flexes their Watchmaking Skills with a Flurry of LVMH Watch Week Novelties Worn & Wound
Louis Vuitton Flexes their Watchmaking Skills Jan 20, 2026

Louis Vuitton Flexes their Watchmaking Skills with a Flurry of LVMH Watch Week Novelties

Fashion houses are often only as strong as consumers’ nostalgia for their heyday. As more time passes between a brand’s peak and its current incarnation, the connection to what it once represented can become increasingly tenuous. In some cases, that link barely holds at all. Balenciaga is a perfect example of a brand that leaned so heavily on its laurels that it fell on its ass. Thankfully, that isn’t the case with Louis Vuitton. The maison’s durability has come from its ability to evolve without losing sight of what made it relevant in the first place. Marc Jacobs is often credited with bringing Louis Vuitton into a modern context when he launched its first ready-to-wear collection in 1998, but the throughline has always been consistent: an emphasis on craftsmanship, materials, and design rooted in the principles established by Louis Vuitton in 1854. That same approach is clearly evident at this year’s LVMH Watch Week, where each release shows that the label is heavily invested in expanding Louis Vuitton’s legacy of craftsmanship into everything under the label’s umbrella. First up, we have the Escale Worldtime, which returns this year in a platinum case with a dial ring featuring 24 hand-painted city flags, each impressively applied at La Fabrique du Temps, the watch manufacture owned by Louis Vuitton that has been the catalyst for much of the brand’s advancement in watchmaking under their own name in recent years. If you are more interested in the Flying...

Maurice de Mauriac Introduces the Rallymaster IV for the Australian Open Worn & Wound
Maurice de Mauriac Jan 20, 2026

Maurice de Mauriac Introduces the Rallymaster IV for the Australian Open

Maurice de Mauriac and Racquet magazine are back with their latest tennis-inspired timepiece just in time for the 2026 Australian Open, a blacked-out version of their Rallymaster watch inspired by the night sessions at the year’s first Grand Slam tournament - and another unlikely source. “I was really thinking about the surf culture around Australia,” said designer Carlton DeWoody. The Rallymaster IV keeps the 39mm case of past editions, but adds a black PVD coating, a black nylon with a single luminous white stripe down the center, and a black dial with a white net motif and one burst of color - neon purple, navy, light blue - in the seconds subdial. It all comes together into something edgier than you’d typically see in the tennis world and even with the various nods to tennis in the Rallymaster’s design, that surf inspiration is still apparent. DeWoody has looked for inspiration in other sports since he started designing the first edition of the Rallymaster ahead of its 2022 release. “A lot of my inspiration that looks like it’s tennis kind of came from other sports,” said DeWoody. “That tennis net motif was actually inspired by a racing chronograph. When you take the checkered flag and you kind of zero out to black and white, it becomes a grid. And that has a direct relationship to the grid of the net.” The Rallymaster series has always been colorful, with past editions featuring pastel pinks and baby blues, but the Rallymaster IV may be the m...