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A compact perpetual calendar from a 180-year-old British brand hitting a genuine milestone
The most clever perpetual calendar in the business just got a meaningful upgrade, and it's still only 41 mm
The mechanical calendar that knows leap years automatically through 2100.
36 mm × 8.9 mm, lug 19 mm, Cal. 240 Q
Quill & Pad
The 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève Calendar and Astronomy category is for mechanical watches comprising at least one calendar and/or astronomical complication. And this year all six watches have strong chances at the prize. Our panel isn't unanimous in selecting a winner, but close to it: the moon wins!
SJX Watches
Best known as a watch auctioneer par excellence, Phillips recently established Perpetual, a watch store inside its London showroom on Berkeley Square. A permanent showroom offering watches year-round, Perpetual was conceived to offer clients something to buy in-between the twice-yearly watch auctions. Perpetual comes a few months after the successful pop-up store that took place in March, where a Philippe Dufour Simplicity was purchased by Jean-Claude Biver, the legendary watch entrepreneur who’s now the non-executive chairman of the LVMH watch division. The watch department in London, led by financier-turned-watch-specialist James Marks, is the first outpost of Phillips to have a permanent store. “I believe that auction houses cannot apply the same business model to every geographical location,” explains Mr Marks, “and rather than rely on traditional seasons we need to be proactive with clients year round.” Perpetual officially opens on Wednesday, September 4, with a cocktail party and panel discussion. The panel is made of two industry luminaries – Mr Biver and Phillips’ auction chief Aurel Bacs – and myself. To RSVP for the panel discussion, register online with Phillips. The highlights The inaugural offering at Perpetual is diverse, encompassing both vintage and modern watches. Being a personal favourite of Mr Marks, Rolex “Zenith” Daytonas are well represented, but the line-up also includes a selection of choice examples of independent watchm...
SJX Watches
Kennsen Watches makes its debut with a notably clever and well-priced annual calendar chronograph powered by a patented calendar module on top of a Valjoux 7750. Though Kennsen is newly set-up, its founder David Lea specialises in constructing complications for other brands, explaining the surprising degree of technical innovation for a small start-up. Annual calendar chronographs are relatively uncommon on the market and most are fairly costly – Patek Philippe and Ulysse Nardin are amongst the handful of brands that offer one – making the new Kennsen the most affordable example today, with a retail price of just over US$5000. Despite its affordability, the Kennsen annual calendar chronograph is entirely Swiss-made. The case is produced by Victorinox, the famed maker of Swiss army knives and also watches, while the module was designed by Lea & Associé – Mr Lea’s design outfit – and manufactured by a firm in the Vallée de Joux. Made of stainless steel, the case is 42mm in diameter, with a polished bezel and case back, while the case band has a brushed finish. The dial, available in either black or champagne, has a clean and pleasant design. It features recessed sub-dials, applied indices and a telemeter scale in miles and kilometres on the outer rim. At one o’clock is a day and night indicator displayed in a small aperture, and nestled subtly next to the central axis of the dial is the month display, aligned on the same axis as the date at three. ...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: There aren’t many words in this picture gallery of the Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon concept in red gold, because, well, pictures speak louder than words in this case. To that end, we’ll let them do the talking again. Enjoy. We are. There is absolutely zero doubt that Moser know their way around a fine … ContinuedThe post Behold, the Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon concept in red gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
A. Lange & Söhne's proprietary gold alloy finds a new timepiece to grace this year. Enter the Langematik Perpetual in honey gold.
Deployant
The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon was first introduced in 2016. It is currently the most complicated watch of the Datograph sub-family.
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There is absolutely zero doubt that Moser know their way around a fine dial. Their fumé is hypnotic perfection at its best. Last year the brand upped the ante with their conceptual perpetual with impossibly black Vantablack dial. Well, if this well of blackness (which is a wonder on the wrist) leaves you as cold … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Glimmering through the darkness – Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept in red gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Blancpain equips its iconic dive watch with the practical complete calendar function. We take a look at the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Complete Calendar.
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Few colours have the symbolic weight of black. It’s meaningful in pretty much every culture. It’s associated - naturally enough - with darkness, mourning and solemnity, and with endings and beginnings. It’s also a colour of power and authority. All these associations and emotions are tied up in Moser’s latest conceptual piece, the Endeavour Perpetual … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The impossible blackness of Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New Release: MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual in Green. We bring you the first live photographs of this new piece.
Deployant
The 1815 Annual Calendar or the Ref. 5396, which annual calendar watch will reign supreme? We took a hard look at both contenders and bring you our verdict.
Deployant
Full hands-on analytical review of the A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Perpetual "Pour le Mérite" with live high resolution photos from SIHH 2017.
Deployant
Detailed hands-on analytical review of the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Annual Calendar with live high resolution photos from SIHH 2017.
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Silent night, holy night, all is calm, apart from the reassuring tick of your Franck Muller Thunderbolt Tourbillon. And let’s not for a minute – or five seconds to be more accurate – mistake the forest for the Christmas trees here, the real star inside this gold curvex case is the tourbillon. When you’re playing at this level, tourbillons are … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 24 – Franck Muller Thunderbolt Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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As you climb higher and higher up the horological Christmas tree – which, by the way we don’t advise in real life, unless this happens – the stars at the top start to thin out, leaving, at least in days of yore, Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet shining brightly as Swiss watchmaking’s ‘big three’. Between them … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 23 – The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Forget for a moment that the Chairman of Hublot, and the man-behind-the-brand Jean-Claude Biver would look frighteningly Santa-like in a red jumpsuit, sans the paunch. Disregard also that he’s the only other man on earth with the kind of energy required to visit every single household in the world in one night, and just focus … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 21 – The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 All Black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Ah, the tourbillon! You should be so lucky to find one under your tree come Sunday morning. Dogma dictates that this little whirlwind is the holy grail of horology, created by only the most prestigious, exclusive and generally snooty brands in existence. Well, much like a little bit like Martin Luther nailing his 95 theses to the Wittenberg chapel … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 20 – The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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If your idea of Christmas is one where festive = indulgence, the new Yacht-Master 40 in Rolesor with its delicious chocolate dial should make it to the top of your list. The good news is that this is one decadent treat you won’t need to give up in January. Who should you buy this for: The posh sailor in … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 19 – The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Rolesor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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“Oh Christmas tree, oh Christmas tree…uhhhh, what are you doing on this Grand Seiko dial?” Seiko must have been in the Xmas spirit when the dial of this Grand Seiko was in development. Of course, the story goes that it’s actually a fir tree, which is celebrated in the Onbashira Festival that’s held in Suwa, near where … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 18 – The Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC017 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Blancpain are definitely on Santa’s nice list this year, for their serious efforts in ocean preservation. And by bringing a variant of an instant, but limited classic, into general production they’ll no doubt work their way back from naughty to nice in their fans’ eyes too. Last year they, and we, spent a lot of time … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 17 – Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in grey plasma ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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In terms surprises, at Christmas or at any other time, Omega releasing a new Speedmaster does not rank (sorry Omegamaniacs). In the last few years we’ve seen Speedies offered in every colour and design under the sun. That said, their latest, the in-no-way-economically named Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph Master Chronometer is, in fact, pretty eye-opening, mouth-watering and wallet-tempting. It’s hot, … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 16 – Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph Master Chronometer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The promo video for the Piaget Polo S may not feature Santa prancing around on rooftops trying to fit his ample girth into chimney tops, but it does feature Ryan Reynolds up there, and boy, is he busy. The idea: there’s a rampant polo ball whizzing through the skies and only he can catch it (which, not to give … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 15 – The Piaget Polo S appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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What’s that, Rudolph? You’re worried about Santa being on time this Christmas? Understandable. Maybe get him one of these, then. This Planet Ocean Chrono is large and in charge – with massive wrist presence that will be a huge help for keeping an eye on his forthcoming deadlines. Plus, while steel versions of this watch require some heavy lifting, … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 14 – The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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“I’m dreaming of a white Christmas…” and also of this distinctly unexpected white-dialled Panerai we saw unveiled at SIHH right at the beginning of the year. It managed to charm, inveigle and confound the team, whose responses ranged the gamut of eye-based expressions, from a heart-eye emoji all the way up to a slightly squinty suspicion. The fact … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 13 – The Panerai PAM 655 Radiomir 1940 3 Days Automatic Acciaio appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Much like Elf, the unofficial best Christmas movie of all time, the Octo has a cult following – though to be honest, that’s where the similarities begin and end. Still, we reckon this status is only going to grow stronger with the release of the blacked-out Ultra Nero. This striking piece commands attention from the wrist, with … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 12 – The Bulgari Octo Ultra Nero appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Montblanc 4810 Orbis Terrarum is a classic worldtime complication, with an outer dial dominated by an inner ring of key global cities and an outer ring displaying 24-hour time. While it looks complicated it’s surprisingly intuitive, and all the more bold in the 4810 case, as opposed to the svelte Heritage Spirit model that we … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 11 – The Montblanc 4810 Orbis Terrarum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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On the 10th day of Christmas, my true love gave to me… the new Cartier model that caught a lot of people’s attention this year in watches. The Drive manages to be both masculine and refined, deviating from the Cartier single shape theory that usually has you choose between square (Santos), round (Ballon Bleu) and … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 10 – The Cartier Drive de Cartier appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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You don’t often see pics of Santa in the desert. But if you did, and if he’d put an appropriate amount of thought into his watch choice, you’d see either an IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII Top Gun Miramar or this Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Chronograph Desert Type on his wrist. Both have that … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 9 – The Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Chronograph Desert Type appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Deck the halls with badass blackness, fa la la la la, la la, la la. There are slow burn watches – the new Air-King, the Globemaster Annual Cal – and then there are immediate, towering infernos. The new Monza is the latter. It’s the least daggy retro piece of the year, and maybe ever. We … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 7 – The TAG Heuer Monza ref. CR2080 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Next up in our festive lineup is one of this year’s crowd favourites – the IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII. This modestly-sized, understated watch goes to show that when you’ve got good design and an enviable pedigree, you don’t need bell and whistles (though that Santoni strap certainly adds to the lustre of the piece). Who … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 6 – The IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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