Two Broke Watch Snobs
Alpina Alpiner Extreme Quartz: Smaller, New Dial Colors And A Quartz Movement
A quick look at the new Alpina Alpiner Extreme Quartz watches announced at Watches & Wonders 2024, feature a smaller and slimmer case.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
A quick look at the new Alpina Alpiner Extreme Quartz watches announced at Watches & Wonders 2024, feature a smaller and slimmer case.
Worn & Wound
Some things are worth the wait. Though the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT will likely get the most press from the brand’s releases at this year’s Watches & Wonders event, the release of a stripped-down, monochromatic, black and silver, 41mm Black Bay is no less significant. Why? Well, it’s the most obvious colorway for a dive watch, which means it’s bound to be a classic. First launched in 2012, the 41mm Black Bay (just called “Black Bay”) is the watch that reestablished Tudor after some time in horological purgatory. Perfectly timed to ride the wave of vintage-inspired aesthetics that dominated for the decade hence, it showed that Tudor unliked their sister brand, Rolex, was willing to be a bit trendier and fun. Originally powered by ETA movements, it was the first to receive Tudor’s in-house caliber in 2016 and then underwent a third iteration in 2023 when it received the upgraded Master Chronometer certification (and technically a new caliber), as well as a slight redesign in the form of an updated handset, crown, and profile. With the introduction of the Black Bay 58, GMT, and 54 models, new versions of the Black Bay slowed down. Several different colors have been available, from the original burgundy bezel to a steel bezel with date to two-tone models. Yet, despite its tenure, the most obvious model never existed. The model most dive watches come in as a given: simple black-black bezel, black dial, white lume, white or silver markers. No gilt, no red, no fuss....
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The first two days of Watches & Wonders have been fun to cover from the perspective of TBWS. Obviously, many of these watches are to be admired from afar and are not typically something we'd be able to add to our personal collections. But damn, it's still exciting - especially over at the Zenith camp. This year alongside their vintage Revival A3648, the brand has introduced the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver, a very modern dive watch entry that showcases Zenith's technical abilities. Much like last year, Zenith may be running as my favorite exhibitor at Watches & Wonders.
Monochrome
The Chopard L.U.C XPS series, renowned for its grace and technical beauty, is a top choice for dress watches. Among the latest additions to this collection, the L.U.C XPS Forest Green stands out with its captivating dark green sector-style dial and lustrous Lucent Steel case. Another demonstration of what quiet luxury means! The new Chopard […]
Monochrome
During the 2024 edition of Watches & Wonders, Jaeger-LeCoultre welcomes back the Duometre, one of its most technical, high-end collections. Thanks to the development of the new calibre 391, the Duometre Chronograph Moon combines a high-precision chronograph with a celestial complication. Further evolutions regarding the case and dial mark this model as one of the […]
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Worn & Wound
Today, Hublot has announced not one, but six new versions of the Big Bang Integrated Time Only, and here’s the kicker - this time they’re 38mm. When the first Hublot watch was launched by Carlo Crocco all the way back in 1980, it stood out. Totally different from anything else on the market, it supposedly took Crocco and his team at MDM Watches three years to develop the rubber strap for the first Hublot. The juxtaposition of a high-end gold case and an integrated rubber strap defined that first watch and “The Art of Fusion” would become the signature of a brand defined by experimentation. It was in that spirit that Hublot released the first Big Bang on a bracelet in 2020 (just a few weeks before the pandemic, as it turned out). I remember the prevailing sentiment at the time being slight surprise that a braceleted Big Bang didn’t already exist and a bemused “okay” before everyone got very distracted by the world shutting down. That first 42mm Big Bang Integral Chronograph was followed up by a 40mm Big Bang Integral Time Only two years later. Those first two Integral models featured skeletonized sapphire dials and sporty red and black highlights. Like many large Hublot releases, they each felt decidedly masculine. Today’s new Big Bang Integrated Time Only releases are much more sedate, swapping sapphire skeleton dials for solid ones finished in somewhat more traditional polished blacks or sunray blues. With their more neutral designs and smaller case siz...
SJX Watches
Adding to the successful Monsieur collection, the Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black Edition is essentially a new colour for an existing model, but nonetheless proves that Chanel is serious about watchmaking. Thoughtfully designed inside and out, the Intense Black adds racing-inspired cladding to one of the most intriguing watches from outside the establishment watchmakers. Initial thoughts Watches like the Monsieur serve as a reminder that good watches can come from unexpected places – even brands perceived to be “fashion” – and should be a wake-up call for those who think Chanel is just a maker of cosmetics and handbags. Technically competent and well designed, the Monsieur collection is a testament to the brand’s commitment to its watchmaking programme. Like the original Monsieur Superleggera launched in 2021, the Intense Black Edition features a 42 mm case made up of a steel inner case with a ceramic cladding, hence superleggera, which is Italian for “super light”. In this respect, the Superleggera benefits enormously from Chanel’s ownership of G&F; Châtelain, which one of just two Swiss suppliers of ceramic watch cases. Despite the Intense Black moniker, the watch is only slightly more black than the 2021 original, which had a few red accents. In fact, they are similar enough that the yellow “Superleggera” script on the dial might prove to be the easiest way to tell the two versions apart. Though the two versions are largely identical, it i...
Fratello
Only a few weeks have passed since Czapek introduced the Antarctique Mount Erebus Deep Blue models. Both of them presented a familiar aesthetic in precious metals. I love the Antarctique, and a yellow gold version made me fall in love with the watch all over again. For this year’s Watches and Wonders, the brand releases […] Visit Introducing: The Czapek Antarctique Passage De Drake Afterglow And Antarctique Green Meteor to read the full article.
Fratello
A small brand like Czapek does not release a new product line often. That’s why every new one is special. Czapek found inspiration within its portfolio for the new Promenade collection. It fuses influences from the Quai des Bergues and the Antarctique lines. The result is a new line of watches that combines many details […] Visit Introducing: The New Czapek Promenade Collection - A Minimalist Approach Defined By Interesting Details to read the full article.
Fratello
Panerai has been affiliated with the prestigious America’s Cup since 2017. Additionally, since 2019, the brand has sponsored the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team, regularly celebrating that connection with Luna Rossa watches. For Watches and Wonders 2024, we get five new additions to that yacht-racing-inspired collection. Let’s have a closer look. The new Panerai Luna […] Visit Introducing: New Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa Models - PAM1405, PAM1466, PAM1543, PAM1507, And PAM1565 to read the full article.
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Hodinkee
Two of the most coveted tricks in Lange's bag are now in one of the best watches they've ever made.
Fratello
At Watches and Wonders last year, TAG Heuer presented new Carrera models using a 39mm Glassbox case design. Many celebrated these watches due to their clean, classic looks and moderate size. Since then, more variants have entered the lineup, including a full-gold model and the return of the cult-classic Skipper. Now we have two new […] Visit Introducing: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models to read the full article.
SJX Watches
In a surprising move, Tudor is launching the Black Bay 58 18K (ref. 79018V-006) at Watches & Wonders 2024. Essentially the same watch as the 2021 model, the new 58 18K now sports a matching yellow-gold bracelet, whereas it was formerly only offered on a leather or fabric strap. The dial and the bezel remain in the same green colourway, with gilt markings that match the hue of the yellow-gold case and bracelet. The 39 mm case is complemented by an oversized crown embossed with the Tudor rose logo, while widely cut bevels on the lugs provide a pleasing contrast to the brushed finish of the case. Initial thoughts While the Black Bay 58 18K won’t have as much of a wide appeal as the Black Bay 58 GMT – simply as a matter of affordability – it is a perfect update for a model that looked incomplete on a strap. And the bracelet itself is noteworthy. I like fact that it does away with the fake rivets found on the steel models. The cleaner look feels more modern and functional. At US$32,100, the Black Bay 58 18K is far beyond the usual price range of Tudor, but arguably delivers a competitive value proposition as far as an all-gold diver’s watch goes. Granted, the price is not far off from the Rolex Submariner in gold, which retails for US$39,000, but relative to the competition (such as Omega and Breitling), it is perhaps the most competitive in its segment. All gold and no rivets The Black Bay 58 18K notably features a solid gold bracelet equipped with a “T-fit” clasp ...
Fratello
It’s been a lot of fun to witness the resurgence of Chopard over the past several years. It has transformed into a brand I look forward to hearing from during Watches and Wonders. For 2024, L.U. Chopard has brought us two gorgeous pieces in Lucent Steel. These watches, with their sector dials, will likely prove […] Visit L.U. Chopard Introduces Two New Sector-Dial Beauties In Lucent Steel to read the full article.
Fratello
The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is one of my favorite releases of the past few years. The watch came out last year at Watches and Wonders and proved to be one of the show’s highlights. It’s spectacular salmon/copper dial shows the incredible potential of the watch. Not only is the color spectacular, but adding […] Visit Chopard Extends Its Collection With Two Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Models And The Skeletonized Titanium Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT to read the full article.
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Fratello
It has become somewhat of a tradition for Zenith to release a modern version of one of its classics from the archives during Watches and Wonders. This year is no different as the brand brings back the legendary A3648. This colorful dive watch was first released in 1969. It combined great looks with a serious […] Visit Zenith Releases The Colorful Defy Revival A3648 - A Modern Reinterpretation Of A Classic Zenith Dive Watch to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
When measured in kicks, not all watches rank the same. This is often a combination of the watch itself and personal preferences, but sometimes a watch ranks so high in wow factor that none of that matters. You are bound to go on a horological trip, and such a watch is the HYT Conical Tourbillon.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Oris is one of those brands that we love to talk about here at TBWS, simply for the fact that the team always seems happy to just do their own thing. This year, instead of doing something big and flashy, Oris has moved to update their vast catalog of Oris Aquis Date models for 2024. It's a key collection and this kind of care ensures that the watches don't become stale, as Oris aims to put out the best that they possibly can. The Aquis is just a great, sturdy dive watch from an independent brand and these new models are available in 43.5mm, 41.5mm, and 36.5mm case sizes with a bunch of dial color options and a choice to go with the in-house Oris Caliber 400 on the 43.5mm version. Let's try to wrap our heads around this.
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 series has, since its inception, been a collection that has veered toward the sporty. The outright sports models are commanding in their wrist presence for sure, but even the “standard” Evolution 9 watches have a robust quality to them that makes them ideal daily drivers. Now, for Watches & Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko has introduced an all new branch of the Evolution 9 collection with a pair of watches they have specifically identified as being in the dress category: the SLGW002 and SLGW003, featuring the all new manually wound 9SA4 caliber. The cases, crafted in rose gold for the SLGW002 and Brilliant Hard Titanium for the SLGW003, measure 38.6mm in diameter and 9.95mm tall. The lines of the case recall other watches in the Evolution 9 collection (these watches still have a ton of wrist presence thanks a wide stance and clearly executed facets) but are more refined overall. Also, like other Evolution 9 cases, these wear as if the center of gravity is lower, and the watch plants satisfyingly on the wrist, and especially in titanium it feels very ergonomic. The big news here though is the new movement that allows for such a sleek rendition of the Evolution 9 principles. The 9SA4 caliber is effectively a hand wound version of the 9SA5, Grand Seiko’s next generation high beat rate movement with their proprietary dual impulse escapement. But Grand Seiko has done more than simply strip the 9SA5 of its winding rotor. Much of the gear train has...
Monochrome
1969 was a milestone year for Zenith watches with the brand’s launch of the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph movement. Although the El Primero stole the headlines, it was not the only model Zenith had up its sleeve. With slightly less fanfare, Zenith also launched its heavy-duty Defy family with its angular octagonal case, crazy […]
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Introducing the new Rolex GMT Master II 126710GRNR announced at Watches & Wonders 2024. Get a full rundown with specs, pricing, and photos.
Monochrome
At this year’s Geneva edition of Watches & Wonders, Ulysse Nardin is introducing a new version of its Freak S with aesthetic updates that make the ingenious, complex, unorthodox watch even more compelling. Introduced by Ulysse Nardin in 2001 under the visionary leadership of the late Rolf Schnyder, the original Freak sparked a wave of […]
Monochrome
The sunburst green dial is not a new concept for Vacheron Constantin; there are references in the Traditionelle collection featuring the same finish. With that in mind, the new sporty and chic Overseas references, while adding a new adventurous direction, are essentially the same watches we have seen released in previous years, in pink gold […]
Worn & Wound
Montblanc has just released the limited-edition 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen. This latest release blends the spirit of mountain exploration, a tribute to the historical Minerva pocket watches and chronographs designed in the 1920s and 1930s for military purposes, with cutting-edge technology that has continued to define the Montblanc brand in recent releases. The hallmark of this new model is its innovative case material, CARBO2, created through an eco-conscious process that transforms CO2 captured from bio-gas and mineral waste into a durable composite when mixed with carbon fiber. This pioneering material not only sets a new standard in sustainable luxury watchmaking but also boasts a striking dark hue that perfectly complements the adventurous essence of the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen. The watch’s dial, inspired by glacial textures, is crafted using the gratté-boisé technique for an intricate effect that mirrors the complexity of ice crystals. The dial is complemented by white luminescent black rhodium-coated Arabic numerals and indexes, white luminescent rhodium-coated hours and minutes hands, a white luminescent dual time hand, and luminescent Northern and Southern hemispheres globes with blue Greenwich meridians. It is this set of small details that show the precision and focus of Montblanc with their luxury-end watches. In fact, one extremely intriguing feature is the side engraving of Mont Blanc Mountain, visible only to the wearer, which glows luminously i...
Monochrome
As many of our readers might know, Hermès is positioning itself as a watchmaking heavyweight, ranking close to the top ten Swiss watch brands. With sales booming for iconic designs like the Cape Cod, the Arceau, the Slim d’Hermès and the more recent H08 collection, Hermès watches flaunt unique designs coupled with a poetic temperament […]
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