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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Collection It’s been Sep 15, 2020

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection

It’s been a great year for new watches, and one of the biggest contributors to this slew of attractive wristwatches is TAG Heuer, who continue their run of strong releases in 2020. The latest release from the La Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaker is the TAG Heuer Carrera Collection, adding another feather to the Carrera cap after the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook, now with interchangeable straps gives you three for the price of one Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook now Sep 15, 2020

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook, now with interchangeable straps gives you three for the price of one

As most watch collectors will agree, there are few things better than getting a new watch in your collection. It’s the thrill of having a new watch on your wrist that you’ve been thinking about for weeks or months, and is the culmination of researching, considering and finally pulling the trigger on that special piece … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook, now with interchangeable straps gives you three for the price of one appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Franck Muller Introduces the Cintrée Curvex Master Banker Asia Exclusive SJX Watches
Franck Muller Sep 14, 2020

Franck Muller Introduces the Cintrée Curvex Master Banker Asia Exclusive

A pioneer in independent watchmaking, Franck Muller was most famous for its graceful tonneau-shaped case but the brand was also particularly productive with complications in the 1990s and early 2000s. Amongst its most notable inventions were the double-face chronograph and whimsical Crazy Hours. But the brand’s technical creativity was present at the other end of utility spectrum as well – something exemplified by the Master Banker, a wristwatch unveiled in 1993 that boasted three separate time zones, each with independent hours and minutes. Now the watch has been given a new lease of life as the Cintrée Curvex Master Banker Asia Exclusive, that’s available in two case sizes, seven distinct colours, and various case materials, including steel, rose gold, and diamond-set rose gold. Initial thoughts Although powered by a humble ETA base movement, the Master Banker is a surprisingly accomplished complication, yet smartly constructed to be simple and robust. The time zone complication is practical for tracking times in multiple countries, but it is rarely instantly legible, especially when multiple time zones are displayed. With two largish sub-dials – each with their own hour and minute hands – the Master Banker solves the problem instantly. Not only is it legible, each of its sub-dials can be set to time zones with unconventional offsets – like 45 minutes for Kathmandu – allowing the watch to track any time zone in the world. The only downside of the display ...

INTRODUCING: The Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions sure are nice, and if you ain’t RedBar you can’t buy ’em (for now) Time+Tide
Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions Sep 14, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions sure are nice, and if you ain’t RedBar you can’t buy ’em (for now)

Frederique Constant has updated and overhauled their Highlife line, which was originally created more than 20 years ago to bring a high-value horological offering to the consumer. Standard production models of this new lineup were recently launched in steel, gold-plated, and two-tone steel and gold-plated models - in both time and date only (Automatic COSC) and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions sure are nice, and if you ain’t RedBar you can’t buy ’em (for now) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO In ‘Tenet,’ The First Action Spectacle In Theaters Post COVID-19 Lockdowns Quill & Pad
Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO Sep 12, 2020

Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO In ‘Tenet,’ The First Action Spectacle In Theaters Post COVID-19 Lockdowns

'Tenet' is not the first time Hamilton has collaborated with wristwatches on a Christopher Nolan movie; the first was The Murph created for 'Interstellar' back in 2014. And like 'Interstellar,' 'Tenet' uses time as one of its main themes, running like a gold thread through the complicated plot. Elizabeth Doerr takes a look at the Navy Khaki BeLOWZERO models that Hamilton created as a prop and as a limited edition release.

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph, a pinnacle of complexity within the range Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Sep 12, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph, a pinnacle of complexity within the range

Close to being at a loss for words … almost thankful that I haven’t got this on my wrist for a hands-on review as I would not leave the house. Email to Director: Self-imposed lockdown initiated, reason - the new Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph needs a full 10 days of attention, all … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph, a pinnacle of complexity within the range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sex toys, murder victims and cocaine: the dark side of the Apple Watch Time+Tide
Sep 11, 2020

Sex toys, murder victims and cocaine: the dark side of the Apple Watch

Bubble wrap was originally devised as a form of three-dimensional wallpaper. The modern treadmill was invented to harness the muscle power of idle prisoners in order to mill grain. Frisbees were created by a Connecticut pie company as a dish for their wares. Fascinating facts aside, the point here is that many things are designed … ContinuedThe post Sex toys, murder victims and cocaine: the dark side of the Apple Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What nickname has Instagram settled on for the Rolex Submariner ref. 126619LB in white gold? Time+Tide
Rolex Submariner ref 126619LB Sep 11, 2020

What nickname has Instagram settled on for the Rolex Submariner ref. 126619LB in white gold?

Now that Rolex has released watches and ended that dreadful rumour that they were sitting 2020 out, the important work begins. Nicknaming them. The one that has perhaps caused the most contention, is this one, the Submariner ref. 126619LB in white gold.   We’re going to tell you everything you need to know about it … ContinuedThe post What nickname has Instagram settled on for the Rolex Submariner ref. 126619LB in white gold? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Thank You Edition (read and see if you get a mention) Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Sep 10, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Thank You Edition (read and see if you get a mention)

If you don’t like public displays of affection, you might want to scroll down to the top stories of the week, because it dawned on me today, as I prepared for an interview with the CEO of TAG Heuer, that I have a lot of people to thank at this point in time. As I’ve … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Thank You Edition (read and see if you get a mention) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ressence Introduces the Type 3MC Unique Piece SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces Sep 10, 2020

Ressence Introduces the Type 3MC Unique Piece

Just months after a one-off Ressence was sold at auction to benefit the medical research department of a Belgian university, the brand has announced another philanthropic wristwatch, this time in association with Art in Time, a watch retailer in Monaco owned by Chopard. A unique piece Type 3MC is remarkably red – the primary colour of the Monegasque flag – elevating the sleek, contemporary style of Ressence to a striking new level. Initial thoughts With part of the proceeds going to the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation, a charity dedicated to ecological and social issues, the Type 3MC is a departure from the usually low-key look of the brand, as seen on the recent olive green Type 1 for instance. The red makes the rest of the dial less obvious, but there are other, more subtle colours, including the off-white markings and hands as well as orange and pale blue. Already an extremely impressive watch in design, concept, and execution, the Type 3MC will appeal to anyone who finds the standard versions too plain. And the fact that is a unique piece to benefit a good cause helps in accepting the price, which is steep, not to the the point of being exorbitant, but steep nonetheless. Two in one Colours aside, the Type 3MC has all of the standard Ressence tech, including a dial capsule filled with oil that refracts light, resulting in the optical illusion that of the dial being printed on the underside of the crystal. The oil also serves as a lubricant for the time-dis...

HANDS-ON: The olive green dial of this TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph is incredible Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph Sep 9, 2020

HANDS-ON: The olive green dial of this TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph is incredible

As you may have seen here and here, we have been taking a closer look at the latest chapter in the TAG Heuer Carrera collection that sees a total redesign of one of the brand’s most historically important families. But within this new collection, the TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph green dial catches the eye … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The olive green dial of this TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph is incredible appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Thin Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange” SJX Watches
Casio n It has Sep 9, 2020

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Thin Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange”

The base model in the “Homage to F. A. Lange” 175th Anniversary Collection is the 1815 Thin Honeygold, a slim, time-only watch that’s a restrained, formal-dress watch. Though the simplest watch in the 175th anniversary line up, the 1815 Thin also the best variation of Lange’s ultra-thin watch. The standard version of this watch is the Saxonia Thin, a watch that’s a little staid. The anniversary “Thin”, on the other hand, has been reworked with a new, larger case as well as fired enamel dial dial – an extra rarely found on accessibly-priced Lange watches. Initial thoughts The 1815 Thin is notably appealing, not so much for its thinness, but how well it has been executed despite being minimalist. The standard Saxonia Thin is overly plain, but the 1815 Thin manages to be compelling, mainly due the slightly larger case and fired enamel dial. And the 1815 Thin is also affordable as limited edition Lange watches go. The 175th anniversary trio Simple done right Made of two parts, the enamel dial sticks to the pocket-watch inspiration of the 1815. At 38 mm by 6.3 mm, the case is slightly larger and thicker than that of the Saxonia Thin (which is 37 mm by 5.9 mm), in order to accommodate the enamel dial. The movement is the same L093.1 found in the Saxonia Thin, but as with the rest of the anniversary watches, it’s been dressed up for the occasion. It has a frosted finish on the three-quarter plate as well as black-rhodium filling for the engraving on the bala...

HANDS-ON: The lightweight luxury of the new Bulgari Aluminium collection Time+Tide
Bulgari Aluminium collection Bulgari has Sep 9, 2020

HANDS-ON: The lightweight luxury of the new Bulgari Aluminium collection

Bulgari has revived a late ’90s classic with the new Bulgari Aluminium collection this year. A great blend of daily and luxury wear, these lightweight watches pack a heavy punch. While watch designs can be quite homogenous in a traditional industry, the new Bulgari Aluminium 2020 models are welcome revivals with their distinct Bulgari aesthetic. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The lightweight luxury of the new Bulgari Aluminium collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection offer size, sportiness and a sea of details Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection Sep 7, 2020

IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection offer size, sportiness and a sea of details

Editor’s note: The closer we have come to this new collection by TAG Heuer, the more details we have noticed and begun to appreciate. For example, the very unusual radially brushed finishing of the lush dials. See in the pics below. Yet more proof that big-box brands are still very aware of the power of … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection offer size, sportiness and a sea of details appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Phillips ‘Intersect’ Online Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe it also includes watches Sep 7, 2020

Highlights: Phillips ‘Intersect’ Online Auction

Having debuted its first online watch auction earlier this year, Phillips returns with the second instalment, Intersect, once again offering a cross-category selection spanning watches, art, and jewellery. Made up of 110 lots – a third are watches – the auction is live from now until 6 pm (GMT+8) on September 14. While the line up naturally features the usual suspects like Rolex and Patek Philippe, it also includes watches from independent brands like H. Moser & Cie., Daniel Roth, and Urwerk, as well as a notably artisanal pair if Chopard L.U.C watches decorated with maki-e. Some highlights of the sales are included below, and the full catalogue is available here. [Full disclosure: Lots 97 and 98 were consigned by our founder SJX.] Lot 15 – Rolex Daytona ref. 116520 Having been overshadowing by its successor with a ceramic bezel (and other more recent sports models), the Daytona ref. 116520 is relatively good value in the world of Rolex sports watches. Interestingly, the ref. 116520 was the first Daytona to boast the in-house cal. 4130, and also the last to have a stainless steel bezel. The present watch is offered in well-preserved, “full set” condition, with an unusual extra – the Rolex Japan sticker on the case back once found only on Rolex watches sold in the country. It has an estimate of HK$94,000-190,000, or about US$12,100-24,400. Lot 30 – Urwerk UR-202 in white gold A pioneer in avant-garde watchmaking best known for its atypical displays of time, Ur...

VIDEO: Oh, hello there Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in Green, looking sharp in the metal Time+Tide
Raymond Weil Sep 7, 2020

VIDEO: Oh, hello there Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in Green, looking sharp in the metal

Well, the enthusiastic comments on the video, the site post and the socials have confirmed it – this new Raymond Weil Freelancer in a pitch perfect olive green, with that eye-catching exposed balance well and truly have your attention. Which is why we thought we’d upgrade the Hands-On review and bring it to you in … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Oh, hello there Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in Green, looking sharp in the metal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The new Grand Seiko SBGC238 Limited Edition Spring Drive Chronograph is futuristic, aggressive, brilliant Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGC238 Limited Edition Spring Sep 7, 2020

INTRODUCING: The new Grand Seiko SBGC238 Limited Edition Spring Drive Chronograph is futuristic, aggressive, brilliant

I am beginning to run out of synonyms for the scope of Grand Seiko for 2020, with yet another impressive reference being pulled out of what seems to be a very deep hat. This time we are looking at the Grand Seiko SBGC238, a limited edition of the largest most angular case possibly ever from … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Grand Seiko SBGC238 Limited Edition Spring Drive Chronograph is futuristic, aggressive, brilliant appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection is for lovers of big, bold, sporty and steel sports watches Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection Sep 6, 2020

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection is for lovers of big, bold, sporty and steel sports watches

In a move that sees one of their most recognisable families undergoing a revitalisation, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection is a serious statement by the brand. The Carrera DNA is clear for all to see, but the case and dial have been reinvigorated with some subtle changes that deliver a more contemporary … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection is for lovers of big, bold, sporty and steel sports watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

85 Years Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Reprise It Sep 6, 2020

85 Years Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Reprise

It perhaps seems like overkill to “celebrate” an anniversary like 85 years, but when you’re a wristwatch as old and as evergreen as the Reverso, it somehow becomes appropriate. In honor of the long and successful career of the horological icon, we took a brief look back over the 85 years of this truly authentic timepiece, an original in the world of watches, from 1931 until 2016.

INTRODUCING: The legend of the Rolex Submariner Date 41mm Ref.126610LN grows (by 1mm) Time+Tide
Rolex Submariner Date 41mm Ref.126610LN Sep 5, 2020

INTRODUCING: The legend of the Rolex Submariner Date 41mm Ref.126610LN grows (by 1mm)

Shock. That’s been the general consensus for the last few days among our enthusiast community. Rolex has just unveiled the all-new Rolex Submariner Date 41mm Ref.126610LN, and they’ve made one of the biggest changes to the dive watch in its 51 years of existence. For the first time in the legendary moniker’s history, the Oyster … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The legend of the Rolex Submariner Date 41mm Ref.126610LN grows (by 1mm) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The menthol-fresh Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Limited Edition in 18k white gold Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Limited Sep 5, 2020

INTRODUCING: The menthol-fresh Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Limited Edition in 18k white gold

In a week marked by the one-millimetre revolution, Audemars Piguet has quietly tip-toed into the room and released a frosty breeze of a limited Royal Oak to everyone’s surprise. As if by magic, a new reference of the perfectly sized 39mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Limited Edition in 18k white gold appeared on their website.  … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The menthol-fresh Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Limited Edition in 18k white gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Ulysse Nardin Sep 5, 2020

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon

Ulysse Nardin (UN) excels at excellent in-house movements, even for its most affordable, time-only watches. Its watches cases, on the other hand, are typically straightforward – they do the job, but are far from fancy. Just launched at Geneva Watch Days, the Blast Tourbillon is a step in the fancier-case direction. Fronted by a strikingly facetted – and contrast finished – upper plate, the case of the Blast is novel without being too much (though it is a bit much combined with the “X” skeleton movement). And the Blast also sits surprisingly well on the wrist despite its large size. But true to UN’s technically-oriented watchmaking, the Blast is not merely new livery for an old movement. Instead the UN-172 movement within is a new calibre featuring an extensively skeletonised construction – that retains the “X” motif the brand is overly fond of – as well as the signature full-kit silicon oscillator. Initial thoughts The Blast combines an interesting case with an elaborate movement – automatic, skeletonised, and a tourbillon featuring a silicon escapement and hairspring – for not very much money as such things go. With the base model retailing for US$44,000 for the base model, the Blast is priced well. The case is the highlight – finished well and wearable despite its size. The Blast is a big watch at 45 mm in diameter, though it feels notably slimmer than its 13 mm height, partly due to the case height-to-diameter ratio. The fit is good for a wat...

Cartier Santos-Dumont Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Cartier Santos-Dumont Hands-on Review INTRODUCTION Sep 3, 2020

Cartier Santos-Dumont Hands-on Review

INTRODUCTION: Born from a friendship between Louis Cartier and his pilot pal – Brazlian Aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont – the Cartier Santos was created as a tool to help Alberto tell the time when flying. In the century or so since, Cartier’s Santos has been at the forefront of the brands watch collection, widely loved for its timeless design and icon status.  In more recent years, Cartier’s watch department has been hard at work updating and refining their watch offering, collecting heaps of praise along the way. Earlier this year, the brand released a trio (the Santos-Dumont “Le Brésil,” “La Baladeuse,” and “No. 14 Bis” Limited Editions) of Large size limited editions during Watches & Wonders 2020.  Each of these three watches feature Cartier’s in-house and hand-wound movement, a 430 MC. They’re also made from a combination of different metals with a dial to match, and were made in different quantities. Each of the trio is named after one of Alberto Santos-Dumont’s famous aircraft, which is featured on the caseback, alongside a corresponding motif engraving.  Today, we’re taking a closer look at the No. 14 Bis Limited Edition, named after a biplane designed and built by Alberto Santos-Dumont, which made the first ‘publicly witnessed’ manned powered flight way back in 1906. The 14-Bis was also known as ‘Oiseau de proie’, French for ‘bird of prey’.  FIRST IMPRESSIONS:  I was blown away by my instantaneous affection for the Santo...