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Monochrome
Gérald Genta, the famed creator of some of the most influential and daring watch designs, founded his eponymous brand in 1969, and in 2023, it was relaunched. Guided by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton and Artistic Director Matthieu Hegi, Genta’s creations were revisited with both reverence and ambition. The Gentissima Oursin series, introduced last […]
Time+Tide
Sapphire-sculpting artisans ArtyA have taken the wraps off a pair of extra special full-sapphire dive watches for Dubai Watch Week 2025.The post ArtyA wows Dubai Watch Week 2025 with a world-first four-colour sapphire diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
In daily modern living, watches have been somewhat divorced from their original tool roots, usurped by the convenience and ease of the smartphones most of us carry around at all times. But there are certain situations in which a watch can rise to the occasion and offer a steadfast reliability that a phone with a dwindling battery life cannot, especially when there’s no power outlet in sight. Hiking, trekking, or generally going off the grid is the exact scenario I’m talking about. Today, I’m going to be breaking down options to find the best hiking watch for your next trip up a mountain (or for your next stay at a campground), with options at a range of price points, styles, and functions to help you find the best fit for you. Though I’m not a hiker by any means, watches, I do know. Down below, I’ve gathered up some of the best hiking watches on the market today that I would confidently recommend to any of my outdoorsy friends for their next trip into the great outdoors. [toc-section heading="Casio PRJB001B-2"] Case: 46mm Material: Resin Water Resistance: 100 meters Caliber: Tough Solar quartz Price: $180 I’m going to kick off this list with something a bit unconventional and with a whole lot of quirk, which also happens to be one of my favorites, with Casio’s PRJB001B-2. There are a lot of things going on here that I haven’t seen on any other field-oriented watches. Most notably, we have the super-unique strap, which combines a more traditional cloth b...
SJX Watches
The Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak brings together two of contemporary watchmaking’s most inventive forces. A collaboration between Ulysse Nardin and Urwerk, it merges the Freak’s revolving-movement architecture with Urwerk’s signature wandering hours display to create something that feels both inevitable and extraordinary. The partnership amplifies the strengths of each brand: Ulysse Nardin’s mastery of silicon technology and mechanical architecture, and Urwerk’s futuristic approach to time display. More than a meeting of aesthetics, the UR-Freak unites two brands that have long challenged convention. Both rose to prominence around the turn of the millennium by rewriting mechanical rules-Ulysse Nardin with its revolutionary 2001 Freak, and Urwerk with its satellite-hour timepieces that reimagined a traditional complication. Two decades later, their paths converge with a 100-piece limited edition in sandblasted titanium. Initial thoughts Some collaborations seem obvious in hindsight; the Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak is one of them. The collaboration plays to the strengths of both brands, with Urwerk’s signature wandering hours display plugging seamlessly into the UN Freak architecture. It turns out that Urwerk’s signature satellite wandering hours display feels right at home grafted onto Uylsse Nardin’s flagship. Frankly, they could have left it at that and called it a day. But the fact is Ulysse Nardin went the extra step to reimagine the Freak’s signature flying to...
Worn & Wound
Tudor just released a watch that fans have been clamoring for and perhaps manifesting since at least 2022. That’s the year Tudor released a new 39mm Ranger to a great deal of fanfare and also a great deal of “Well, this would be even better if it was just a little smaller.” To be fair, that 39mm Ranger was perceived by most as an improvement over the 41mm Ranger, introduced in 2014 during an era when the enthusiast voice demanding vintage inspired watches match actual vintage proportions was much quieter. Now, with a new Ranger in 36mm, it feels like it’s finally back to the correct size. What’s more, Tudor has taken this as an opportunity to release the Ranger in a new dial color. The “Dune” colorway is a really appealing, creamy off-white with contrasting black indices and Arabic numerals. The hands match the color of the dial but have been given a black outline to improve legibility, which looks great. The key difference between the black dial (also available in a 36mm size and unchanged in layout from the larger version) is that the Dune dial does not have lumed numerals, but small lume plots next to each numeral. The case, of course, is smaller, but the general design and proportions do not appear to have changed. It’s dominated by a brushed finish which bolsters the tool watch roots of the Ranger, and has a water resistance rating of 100 meters. The Ranger runs on the COSC certified MT5400 automatic movement, which has 70 hours of power reserve on...
Hodinkee
The brand's second model has proven to be their most successful, and the new expansion should keep momentum going.
Monochrome
After the release of what is regarded as the blueprint of the first integrated sports watch in 1972, others quickly followed, including Girard-Perregaux. Launched in 1975, the Laureato was the brand’s answer to the growing demand for a watch with an integrated design. It is one of the earliest, yet also one of the most […]
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux (GP) unveils the second chapter of the Laureato’s 50th anniversary with the Laureato Three Gold Bridges Tourbillon. First launched as part of the earlier generation Laureato in the 1990s, the tourbillon has been reimagined with a monochromatic palette in a limited edition of 50 pieces that evokes GP’s golden age as a modern-day manufacture. Initial thoughts Few tourbillon movements are as iconic as the GP Three Gold Bridges. The concept debuted in a tourbillon pocket watch in 1867 and the manufacture has since adopted the signature arrow-shaped bridge as its logo and even employed the motif in movements without a tourbillon. Fortunately, the new Laureato is very much a tourbillon; this combination of two icons should please both fans of the brand and enthusiasts alike. The GP9620 tourbillon movement is good example of high-quality, in-house watchmaking, and is evidently constructed and finished to a high standard. Derived from the GP9400 series of movements, the GP9620 features improved finishing and a new monochromatic palette. Remaining true to the original three bridges design, the proprietary calibre retains the visual identity of early GP pocket watch tourbillon movements, including the brand’s iconic tourbillon cage immortalised as its own design by Reinhard Meis in his book Das Tourbillon; very few brands have a tourbillon they can truly call their own. But the movement also incorporates modern amenities like automatic winding – thanks...
Monochrome
As one of the most admired independent watchmakers with a hallmark style defined by elegant understatement, it is hard to believe that Laurent Ferrier’s brand was established just 15 years ago. A third-generation watchmaker and car racing enthusiast, Laurent Ferrier (Geneva, 1946) was about to retire after a 37-year stint at Patek Philippe when his […]
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer flexes its research and development muscles again with the performance-oriented Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1. Using the iconic square chronograph as a base, the brand’s engineers took inspiration from its Formula 1 partnership to explore new manufacturing techniques for this 30-piece limited edition that boasts an ultra-light, hollowed-out 18k gold case fabricated with laser additive manufacturing. Initial thoughts The original Monaco from Heuer remains one of the more enduring chronograph designs, with the storied past and distinctive square form. It is refreshing to see TAG Heuer using it as a base for newer, technologically-oriented pieces. This new limited edition takes the already-supercharged crystallised titanium split-seconds released earlier this year and reimagines the square case. The result is a honeycomb-patterned case that is surprisingly lightweight for the size and material. The complex and layered construction of the Air 1, here in an exploded view. The team at TAG Heuer employed a new additive manufacturing technique with the goal of a sturdy yet remarkably light chronograph. Keeping in mind that gold is a dense (thus heavy) metal, making a watch that qualifies as “lightweight” is usually incompatible with including the precious alloy. Here the engineers came up with a way to reduce the volume of gold used, while keeping the components’ sturdiness intact. The timepiece itself can be a little much in terms of styling, with the ...
SJX Watches
Daniel Roth continues its thoughtful return with the Tourbillon Platinum, a contemporary take on the brand’s signature double-ellipse design. While the design remains faithful to the original, the latest version elevates every element, from the crisp pinstripe guilloche to the slightly thinner case. The first platinum model in the brand’s recent history, the watch features the same purpose-built DR001 movement we’ve seen previously, which encapsulates the blend of traditional craft and contemporary styling that defines the brand. Initial thoughts The rebirth of Daniel Roth under the aegis of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT) is something that I’ve followed with interest. With a team led by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, contemporaries and friends of Mr Roth, LFT has pulled off the rare feat of a remake that, at least in a tangible sense, exceeds the original. While the romance of a founder-led operation is impossible to fully replicate, it’s difficult to point to any single aspect of the Tourbillon Platinum that isn’t substantively improved compared to the original C187 of 1988. This speaks to the vast resources of LFT, which was able to design a form movement from the ground up to fit the brand’s supremely elegant double-ellipse case. This bespoke development cycle differs from what Mr Roth had to deal with when he became the first independent watchmaker to produce a tourbillon wristwatch in series. By starting over from scratch, LFT was able to produce a thinn...
Worn & Wound
Dubai Watch Week is here, and with it, so are a lot of new watches. Ressence is marking the moment with a new limited edition take on their Type 1°, pairing what is maybe the most core model in their lineup with a rose gold-plated dial to create something that feels both familiar and novel all at once. Produced in a limited edition of 70 pieces worldwide, this is the Ressence Type 1°RG. Ressence, as a brand, is many things to many people. For some, it’s a colorful, exuberant exploration of the fun side of independent watches - a very high-end G-SHOCK of sorts, a balm for the soul weighed down far too often by the staid and serious watches that so often clog our Instagram feeds. For others, Ressence is that staid, serious watch; a brand pushing to the extremes of what a watch can be, exploring not just the complexities of modern watchmaking, but challenging the very nature of how time can be displayed and perceived. Naturally, each of these slightly pretentiously phrased extremes captures only a part of the whole; like most things, the reality of Ressence falls somewhere in the middle of these two perspectives. Still, Ressence is a brand that deservedly invites interest, and this latest release is no exception. In practice, the Type 1° is the prototypical Ressence, a pretty straightforward summation of what it takes to be a Ressence watch, and, as such, it has often served as a platform for the brand to play with its own aesthetic. In the past, we’ve seen Ressence ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Do you love the Rolex Submariner, but just found its classic 41mm diameter way, way too small? Like, about 39mm too small? Have you looked at a barren corner of your desk and thought, Jeez, I wish my desktop had a jumbo-sized Submariner of its own, so people really know I’m about that Rolex Sub life? Well, if these questions have been keeping you up at night, I am here to deliver news of a possible solution to your problems. Though it didn’t get a ton of publicity (I think the Crown is saving its marketing campaigns for its wristwatches), Rolex quietly released its very first desk clock that is available for the general public. That’s right, you can now get your very own Submariner Date desk clock, given that a Rolex boutique near you has them in stock. Oddly enough, the Submariner Date desk clock marks the very first time Rolex has ever released a clock to the general public. You would have thought by now, the Crown would have a vintage archive of desk, wall, and other large-sized clocks somewhere in the heritage vault. I mean, just about every other major watchmaker with as much history as Rolex offered them throughout the 20th century, from Patek Philippe to Jaeger-LeCoultre and Omega to Longines and beyond. Even Bulova has an extensive repertoire of mid-century clocks, most significantly being its extensive array of mid-century clock radios (which you can find plenty of second-hand). But that isn’t to say that Rolex never explored making clocks – the Crow...
Deployant
Ressence releases the latest addition to their popular Type 1 Round case with a rose gold model in a rose gold plated dial with a soft, copper luminescence.
Time+Tide
It's equipped with the Calibre FPMP2, the brand's first-ever in-house movement with fully designed architecture.The post Felipe Pikullik steps into in‑house with the Mondphase II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
MB&F; opens Dubai Watch Week with a thematic reinterpretation of the HM11 Architect: the HM11 Art Deco. While the underlying structure remains the same, including the strangely satisfying rotate-to-wind case, the latest version goes all in on Art Deco motifs, from sunbeams and stained glass to ziggurats. The 20-piece limited edition also marks a subtle turning point: the growing influence of Maximilian Maertens, who has worked alongside Maximilian Büsser and Eric Giroud since joining the company as an intern in 2017. Initial thoughts Though ‘merely’ a new version of an existing watch, the HM11 Art Deco feels like a sign of things to come from MB&F;. The original HM11 design originated, as so many MB&F; products have, as a collaboration between Maximilian Büsser and designer Eric Giroud. But Mr Büsser is not the only Maximilian to leave an imprint on the HM11 Art Deco; that would be the brand’s Senior Industrial Designer, Berlin-based Maximilian Maertens. Mr Maertens joined MB&F; as an intern in 2017, and has worked on a number of larger objects including the Orb clock made in collaboration with L’Epée 1839. Mr Giroud will no doubt remain as critical as ever, but the growing impact of Mr Maertens is something to watch as MB&F; builds for the future. Tangibly, the Art Deco is much the same watch as the HM11 Architect that debuted two years ago, with its novel rotate-to-wind case and movement. But while everything else seems to have gotten more expensive since 2023, th...
Monochrome
Fam Al Hut has quickly become one of the most talked-about independent watchmakers in the world, a rise underscored by their Möbius timepiece winning the prestigious Audacity Prize at the 25th Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), otherwise known as the “Oscars of Watchmaking.” An accomplishment for any new entrant, Fam Al Hut’s rapid rise […]
Hodinkee
Inside an exclusive collaboration that elevates horology to an art form.
Teddy Baldassarre
The story of Tornek-Rayville is one that represents a significant chapter in both watchmaking and military history, from the earliest purpose-built watches for divers in the 1950s up to the re-emergence of the cult-classic brand (in a notably new form) in the 21st Century. And it begins with the development of the world’s first modern dive watch: the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. [toc-section heading="Blancpain Fifty Fathoms History"] Founded in 1735 in Villeret, Switzerland, Blancpain is the oldest luxury watchmaker in the world, but its most famous timepiece in this modern era began its life as a tool watch for military divers in the (relatively) recent year of 1953. Jean-Jacques Fiechter, who headed Blancpain at the time, was an avid diving enthusiast who had long wanted to develop a watch that would be ideal for his hobby. Fiechter worked with Captain Robert Maloubier, a French naval officer, to design a reliable, mission-ready timepiece that Maloubier’s elite combat diving team could wear. The watch’s 42mm steel case - exceptionally large for the time - was water-resistant to 91.45 meters, or 50 fathoms, the maximum depth recommended for scuba divers. Its dial was black and its numerals were luminescent for greater legibility underwater. It was the first divers’ watch with a self-winding movement, the first with an antimagnetic case, and the first to employ the patented, double-sealed crown that Fiechter had developed. Most notably, the Fifty Fathoms was the ...
Worn & Wound
Singaporean independent brand Zelos is known for their colorful and texture-forward dials that strike a nice balance between affordability and unique design. Each new creation seems to drive their overall image forward in eclectic ways that keep the brand from fitting too rigidly into any one box. While Zelos is often associated with their sub $1,000 tool watches, they have made spectacular forays into the space of haute complications and uncommon materials in recent years. Their release of the Mirage in 2020, a watch that featured a tourbillon at a competitive $11,000 pricepoint, and their work using tantalum as a case material, is proof that the brand is committed to stretching the imagination regarding what a microbrand is capable of. Their newest release, the Comet 39, joins the ranks of the recent trend of stone dials we’ve seen permeating the hobby in the past few years. Since the trend is fairly new, my experience with stone dials is limited, and I was looking forward to getting hands-on with this piece. I was lucky to be able to pick up this review watch in-person at the Windup Watch Fair in New York City a few weeks ago while I was visiting. Complementary sizing by David Lane Design at Windup allowed me to wear the watch around the city during my trip and get a sense for how it moved with me during high-volume days. The Mother of Pearl (MOP) edition is one in a series of three Comet watches in the brand’s new Comet 39 line, all of which are crafted with vari...
Monochrome
We have exciting news from the United States, and it has nothing to do with the Trump Administration’s Swiss watch import tariffs or their recent reduction. Avoirdupois, a New York City-based brand founded in 2017 by designer/engineer James Stumpf, has expanded its product mix beyond retro-styled furniture and lighting products to include watches. Designed and […]
SJX Watches
One of the last launches of 2025 for A. Lange & Söhne, the Saxonia Thin Onyx is a riff on the brand’s most affordable and simplest watch. It’s only modestly different from the standard model – the dial is onyx stone while the case metal isn’t part of regular production – but the Saxonia Thin Onyx stands out. The watch is almost the dictionary definition of a formal-wear timepiece: flat, two hands and minimal colour or embellishment, so much so it blends into conventional Western formal dress. In fact, this is one of the strongest offerings in the formal-dress-watch segment because it is stark, elegant, and priced well. Initial thoughts Lange tend towards the high end of the price spectrum simply because of the brand’s focus on complications and quality. And the brand has also raised retail prices significantly in the last few years. So an affordable-ish Lange that isn’t a run-of-the-mill watch is a good thing. The Saxonia Thin Onyx is exactly that. While it is based on Lange’s entry-level dress watch, a fine but no frills timepiece, the onyx edition is different in look, feel, and materials. It’s available in two metals not offered for the regular production – platinum and Honeygold – and the dial is of course onyx, a mineral stone used sparingly (so far) in limited editions. At 6.2 mm high, the case is half the thickness of a Datograph and sits flat against the wrist. Though the case is 40 mm rather than the smaller size offered for the standard mod...
Worn & Wound
Without Worn & Wound, there is no Windup Watch Fair, and this panel comprises W&W; contributors Brett Braley-Palko, Meg Tocci, and Griffin Bartsch as they discuss the state of watch collecting, shifting and emerging trends, and adjacent hobbies. It’s a lively conversation moderated by Director of Editorial at Worn & Wound, Zach Kazan, and a fantastic conversation about how passion and perspectives keep watch culture strong. A video of the full talk and Q&A; is below; a transcript is also provided for those who want to read the highlights. The following conversation has been lightly edited for brevity and clarity. Zach Kazan: Hello, everyone. Thanks for coming to the first panel of day two of the Wind-Up Watch Fair in New York City. I’m Zach Kazan, Director of Editorial at Worn & Wound, and I’m really happy to be moderating this panel. I’ve wanted to do a panel like this for a long time-just getting contributors together to talk about their interest in watches and how working in watch media influences their collecting and view on the hobby. I’m lucky to have three great contributors here who were willing to participate and humor me a bit. We have Griffin Bartsch, contributor for Worn & Wound. Griffin, thanks for being here. Griffin Bartsch: My pleasure. I try not to miss a Wind-Up. Zach Kazan: Your attendance has been duly noted and appreciated. We also have Brett Braley-Palko, who’s working the Estabrook booth in the EDC area of the show. Brett, great to have y...
SJX Watches
In order to mark the spiral hairspring’s 350th anniversary and celebrate its inventor Christiaan Huygens (1629 – 1695), Japanese watch retailer Shellman presents a two-week exhibition event in Tokyo, The Origins of Time = Astronomy. Opening November 19 and slated to run through December 2, the Shellman exhibit is a collaboration with the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH) in La Chaux-de-Fonds, and showcases the larger extent of Huygens’ work, from horology to optical observation devices. Themed around the Dutch scientist credited with building the first pendulum clock and with inventing the hairspring, the exhibit also explores larger fields of horology, with a focus on astronomy and modern independent watchmaking. Original drawings showing early attempts at making a sprung balance. Beyond his practical applications in horology, Huygens left marks on many other scientific fields, from geometry to physics and astronomy. He notably discovered Saturn’s largest moon Titan and cemented the wave theory of light propagation. One could say that he was interested in the celestial bodies as much as he was in understanding motion and measuring time here on Earth. In his honour, the exhibit leans on the astronomical theme as well. The exhibition is accompanied by a selection of special watches available for sale. Visitors will have the chance to acquire the world’s smallest wristwatch planetarium, the Planetarium Christiaan Huygens Limited Edition, created by the Du...
Hodinkee
The new Chronomaster Sport Chronograph brings a slew of technical updates to the El Primero caliber.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo collection has been a presence in the larger luxury-watch universe for just slightly over a decade now, but its impact has been tremendous - blazing trails of ultra-thinness in watchmaking that few brands have attempted and fewer have even attempted to rival. Today, the Octo Finissimo, in its simplest and most complex iterations, is regarded by enthusiasts as the creative cornerstone of the Bulgari brand, which up until very recently has been known more for high-jewelry watches than ambitious, record-setting mechanical complications. Here’s how the Octo Finissimo became an icon in 10 short years - starting from the very beginning. [toc-section heading="Bulgari History (1884-1934)"] Sotirios Voulgaris, the only survivor of 11 children from a family of silversmiths in the Greek town of Paramythia, was born in 1857 and learned the family craft from his father, making jewelry as well as sword sheaths and belt buckles. After Ottoman invaders set fire to the town in 1873, the family moved to the Isle of Corfu, where Voulgaris met the man who’d become his mentor, Macedonian goldsmith Demetrios Kremos. The two artisans decided to start a business in Italy, settling first in Naples, and eventually in Rome, where they opened their first shop in 1884. After just a few months, however, the partnership ended and Voulgaris - who had now changed his name to the more Italianate “Sotirio Bulgari” - opened up his own shop, which found success sel...
Monochrome
As the year slowly comes to an end, the days get shorter and winter sets in, the festive season is upon us to warm our hearts. Whether you’re celebrating Thanksgiving, Hannukkah, Kwanzaa or Christmas, or all of them for that matter, it’s a time of joy, warmth and the comfort of friends and family. To […]
Time+Tide
Andrew sits down for an interview with newly appointed Longines CEO Patrick Aoun to discuss the past, present, and future of the brand.The post Dissecting the three pillars of Longines and its “sweet spot” strategy with new CEO Patrick Aoun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
There was a time when larger watches were just about everywhere but the last decade or two have seen a big swing towards smaller case sizes. In fact, we would go so far as to say that a majority of watch enthusiasts I know claim to top out at 42mm. Of course, everyone should wear watches that look appropriate on their wrists, but have we gone too far in being reflexively conservative about case size? Well, we took this opportunity to ask our editorial team to pick their favorites and the results actually paint a fairly good outlook for those of you with big wrists and/or big personalities. Let’s take look at our editors’ picks for favorite large watch over 44mm. [toc-section heading="Rolex Deepsea"] The Rolex Deepsea Ref. 136668LB in solid 18k yellow gold is a big watch in size, heft, and vibes. Measuring 44mm wide and 17.7mm thick and weighing in at 322g (about 70% of a pound), this solid gold Rolex isn’t just flashy but has 3,900 m of water resistance. Rolex was thoughtful about this Deepsea as they adapted the Ringlock compression ring in blue Cerachrom to match the bezel, a touch that goes a very long way in creating that very cool solid blue face against the yellow gold case. Another worthy touch here is the RLX Titanium case back which evoked 2024’s “Harmony of Contrasts” theme pretty perfectly with yellow gold, titanium, and ceramic coming together to create one big, beautiful watch with a $59,700 price tag to match. – Bilal Khan [quote-media quote=" A...
Time+Tide
Funky watches are making a comeback! At least according to the latest releases from the past seven days...The post New releases from Hublot, Chronoswiss, Kollokium and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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