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On Scene: Watches & Wonders Shanghai SJX Watches
Sep 26, 2020

On Scene: Watches & Wonders Shanghai

The second week of September saw one of the few large-scale watch fairs of the year take place by the Huangpu River in Shanghai. With the COVID-19 pandemic forcing the cancellation of the world’s two most important watch fairs, Baselworld and SIHH (as well as the permanent demise of Baselworld), Watches & Wonders Shanghai (W&W;) was staged at the West Bund Art Center. As a watch journalist, I used to fly to Switzerland twice a year for the fairs – SIHH in January followed by Baselworld around March – but this year the event came to my home city for the first time. Did W&W; live up to expectations? How has the event changed as it crossed the world? Green and good to go The difference between W&W; and the traditional Swiss fairs was apparent from the point of entry. Guests and journalists were no longer granted access with pass cards, the norm at the Swiss fairs since I can remember. Instead we received an invite email from the fair’s organiser Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) prior to the event, requiring us to register online for a QR entry code. Security staff at the fair’s entrance scanned every visitor’s QR code, as well as our Suishen Code, a digital pass issued by the city authorities. Both an identification and health pass, the Suishen Code has allowed the government to combat the pandemic with rigorous efficiency; every city or province in China has its own health code – the primary reason why a watch fair with hundreds of visitors can take place...

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Sep 26, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon

Editor’s note: In the latest episode of Watch & Chill, we happen on the subject of Royal Oak Concept models for women, and after again seeing the footage of this extraordinary stepped dial sparkle machine, we had to give it its own post, and exploration.  Ask the average person what the purpose of a watch … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet’s Michael Friedman and Eric Ku go deep on the history of the Royal Oak Concept while exploring two brand new releases Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet s Michael Friedman Sep 25, 2020

Audemars Piguet’s Michael Friedman and Eric Ku go deep on the history of the Royal Oak Concept while exploring two brand new releases

Lightning sometimes strikes [the same channel] twice. This time last week, we brought you one of the most scholarly and in-depth conversations I’ve ever been privy to in my time as a watch journalist, in the form of a video in our Watch & Chill series over on our YouTube channel. The main speakers were … ContinuedThe post Audemars Piguet’s Michael Friedman and Eric Ku go deep on the history of the Royal Oak Concept while exploring two brand new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pack it up, 2020 has its wildest watch. Prepare your eyes for the blackmobile that is the Jacob & Co. Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti La Montre Noire Time+Tide
Jacob & Co. Sep 24, 2020

Pack it up, 2020 has its wildest watch. Prepare your eyes for the blackmobile that is the Jacob & Co. Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti La Montre Noire

In a tribute to the most expensive car ever produced, we have the Jacob & Co. Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti La Montre Noire.The post Pack it up, 2020 has its wildest watch. Prepare your eyes for the blackmobile that is the Jacob & Co. Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti La Montre Noire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300 M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Sep 24, 2020

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300 M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum

Best known as the watch worn by Pierce Brosnan playing James Bond, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300 M made its debut in 1993. But the blue-on-blue “Bond” model was not the flagship of the line. That distinction went to a chronograph composed of three metals – gold, titanium, and tantalum – an exotic and expensive combination two decades ago. The tri-metal combination (the original was the ref. 2296.80 for anyone curious) made a comeback as a time-only watch for the 25th anniversary of the Seamaster 300 M two years ago. Now, Omega has finally revealed a truer homage to the original, the Seamaster Diver 300 M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum, which stays to the aesthetics of its inspiration but refined to be more contemporary and technically advanced. Initial thoughts The original version of the tri-metal chronograph isn’t the best known variant of the Seamaster – because it was extremely expensive for the period and sold poorly – so when the time-only variant debuted in 2018, the combination of metal was rather novel. The new chronograph feels exactly like that – it is handsome and modern, but like the 1993 original, it is very expensive. In fact, it is a lot more expensive, all things considered. Priced at a little under US$20,000, the new chronograph is significantly more expensive than its steel-and-gold counterparts – by a factor of 50%. While the price tag partially justified by the unusual material combination and good looks, the new Seamaster Chr...

VIDEO: We take a look at 5 of the best Longines watches from 2020 Time+Tide
Longines watches from 2020 If Sep 23, 2020

VIDEO: We take a look at 5 of the best Longines watches from 2020

If you can say one thing about the Longines releases from 2020, it is that they certainly aren’t boring. With interesting new references being released from across Longines’ various collections, as well as the launch of the brand new Longines Spirit collection, it has been a significant year for the Saint-Imier based brand. The Heritage … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: We take a look at 5 of the best Longines watches from 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser Streamliner Center Seconds – live pics and hands-on review Deployant
H. Moser Streamliner Center Seconds – Sep 22, 2020

H. Moser Streamliner Center Seconds – live pics and hands-on review

The Moser Streamliner Center Seconds was announced in August 26, 2020 as the second model in Moser’s entry into the bewildering world of the stainless steel luxury sports watch with integrated bracelet. We get up close and hands-on with the new watch, and give you our thoughts. H. Moser Streamliner Center Seconds Release information. H.Read More

GPHG 2020 – 5 disruptive nominees that should be winners in a chaotic and disrupted year Time+Tide
Sep 22, 2020

GPHG 2020 – 5 disruptive nominees that should be winners in a chaotic and disrupted year

As the inaugural peak of Haute Horlogerie appreciation is upon us, a renewed GPHG convenes. This time with an expanded panel of judges, a semi-online voting process, and, refreshingly, with a truly broad range of nominees. There is a sense that perhaps disruption is the plat du jour. So, let the GPHG roll on with … ContinuedThe post GPHG 2020 – 5 disruptive nominees that should be winners in a chaotic and disrupted year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 5 best Longines watches released in 2020 (in a very good year) Time+Tide
Longines watches released Sep 22, 2020

The 5 best Longines watches released in 2020 (in a very good year)

This year has been a big one for Longines - for a couple of reasons. They have continued down the purist pathway of vintage reissues through their Heritage collection, as well as continuing to build their other enthusiast-favourite families such as the Record and HydroConquest collections. But the biggest news from Longines in 2020 was the … ContinuedThe post The 5 best Longines watches released in 2020 (in a very good year) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Seiko is donating the proceeds of one Presage SRQ033J1 Porco Rosso Limited Edition which you can buy here Time+Tide
Seiko Sep 21, 2020

VIDEO: Seiko is donating the proceeds of one Presage SRQ033J1 Porco Rosso Limited Edition which you can buy here

For fans of the prolific Japanese animation studio Studio Ghibli, the name Porco Rosso will be familiar to you. He’s the ace biplane pilot who learned the art of flying in World War I, before being turned into a pig and then, turning his skills to fighting pirate crime. He has legions of fans around … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Seiko is donating the proceeds of one Presage SRQ033J1 Porco Rosso Limited Edition which you can buy here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: A detailed tour of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2020 releases with the CEO, Catherine Rénier Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre s 2020 releases Sep 21, 2020

VIDEO: A detailed tour of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2020 releases with the CEO, Catherine Rénier

There are certain experiences we have on a regular basis at Time+Tide that you may not be aware of, or have shared in any way. Yes, even you, hardcore fans. COVID-19 has made it possible for us to bring you in on it. It’s the presentation of the watches. The way we learn about them. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A detailed tour of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2020 releases with the CEO, Catherine Rénier appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

When Accuracy Mattered – Part III: The Triumph of Brands Over Watchmaking SJX Watches
Longines split-seconds chronograph pocket watch Sep 20, 2020

When Accuracy Mattered – Part III: The Triumph of Brands Over Watchmaking

The demise of chronometry competitions last year – when the final edition of Concours International de Chronométrie took place – finally killed the dangerous heresy that a watch is a practical instrument that should be trusted to show the correct time. With the elimination of the last scientific and independent assessment of a watch’s worth, the cult of haute horlogerie comes into its own, reinforcing its definition of a watch as an emotional product born of passion, tradition and prestige. Trials to see who can produce the most precise, accurate and reliable watch originated in Geneva in 1879, when the head of its observatory, Professor Emile Plantamour, devised a testing routine that rated watches in the various positions and temperatures encountered in everyday wear. Observatories soon became the influencers of the pocket-watch age, determining the legitimacy and worth of luxury timepieces. American magnates like James Ward Packard, Henry Graves Jr and Pierpont Morgan secured the most highly rated pieces. A Longines split-seconds chronograph pocket watch that was tested at the Neuchatel Observatory in 1968; this particular example once belong to Jean Pitallier, the former president of the French Cycling Federation (FFC) Despite the advent of wristwatches, the Neuchatel Observatory kept the competitions alive until 1968 when Japanese entrants swept the board. In 1972, deputation of Swiss watch brand executive petitioned the Neuchâtel government minister Ren...

MB&F; HM10 Bulldog: Forget The Dog, Beware Of The Owner (Video) Quill & Pad
MB&F; Sep 20, 2020

MB&F; HM10 Bulldog: Forget The Dog, Beware Of The Owner (Video)

Inspired by a bulldog, MB&F;’s Horological Machine No. 10 features a rounded, stocky body; the time display forms its eyes; and the stout legs form the lugs, hugging its owner fiercely and loyally. But what is more likely to attract your eye are the wildly canine jaws with teeth that open and shut according to the amount of tension in the mainspring. The Watches TV takes a close look (but not too close - woof!).

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Ferrari 1000 GP Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Ferrari 1000 Sep 20, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Ferrari 1000 GP

Two brands, both brash, bold, loud and cutting edge. Well, OK, not loud in the same sense as a V12 engine, but Hublot is a perfect fit as the watchmaking partner to Ferrari. This time, it is a celebration of Ferrari’s 1000th Grand Prix, a milestone in Formula One’s 70th anniversary year and, yes, it … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Ferrari 1000 GP appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Focus On Materials: Primer On The Science of Steel, The Stuff Of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements And The Backbone Of Watchmaking – Reprise Quill & Pad
Sep 19, 2020

Focus On Materials: Primer On The Science of Steel, The Stuff Of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements And The Backbone Of Watchmaking – Reprise

Joshua Munchow talks about steel here, the metal that made the world! Watch cases and other movement components are commonly made from certain stainless steels, 304 and 316L being the most frequent. It also happens that some brands hold exclusive rights to use specific alloys in the production of its watches. Here's what you should know about steel.

Money to burn: 4 crazy watch accessories for jaded billionaires (don’t even bother looking) Time+Tide
Sep 19, 2020

Money to burn: 4 crazy watch accessories for jaded billionaires (don’t even bother looking)

As Woody Allen famously said, “Money is better than poverty, if only for financial reasons.” More specifically, it can help you cultivate a magnificent watch collection. But what does the rich man do when he has scratched his horological itch until it’s red-raw? When he’s become jaded with the tedious rigmarole of snapping up grail … ContinuedThe post Money to burn: 4 crazy watch accessories for jaded billionaires (don’t even bother looking) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The brand new Seiko Alpinist SPB155J and its siblings SPB157J and SPB159J Time+Tide
Seiko Alpinist SPB155J Sep 18, 2020

INTRODUCING: The brand new Seiko Alpinist SPB155J and its siblings SPB157J and SPB159J

The Seiko Alpinist series is a beloved staple of enthusiasts on watch forums and Instagram, with its comfortable shape, size and particular Japanese take on a sophisticated field watch with a rich history. Earlier this year, changes came to the lineup, with the Alpinist logo no longer present, and the Prospex X above the historical … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The brand new Seiko Alpinist SPB155J and its siblings SPB157J and SPB159J appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

From Bruno Mars to Jay-Z: celebrities’ most staggering acts of watch-giving generosity Time+Tide
Sep 18, 2020

From Bruno Mars to Jay-Z: celebrities’ most staggering acts of watch-giving generosity

Random acts of kindness are all very well. But at Time+Tide, we prefer our gestures of mind-blowing generosity to come in a horological format. From rock stars to comedians and actors to athletes, the moral of this story is simple: work hard, amass your fortune then spread the love by upgrading the wrists of mankind, … ContinuedThe post From Bruno Mars to Jay-Z: celebrities’ most staggering acts of watch-giving generosity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: How Hermès got away from LVMH – and thrived Time+Tide
Hermes Sep 18, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: How Hermès got away from LVMH – and thrived

Editor’s note: How did Hermès not only survive, but manage to thrive after resisting a takeover bid from LVMH? This story tells the tale. And leaves out what might be the best bit for us, as watch lovers. Which is Hermès’ ongoing ascendancy in watchmaking. Who could forget the extraordinary Arceau L’heure de la lune … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: How Hermès got away from LVMH – and thrived appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Sorry, it’s short this week, I’m thirsty … Time+Tide
Sep 17, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Sorry, it’s short this week, I’m thirsty …

Some Friday Wind Downs are long, some have a point, and others are just the last thing standing between me and a cold, cold beer. That’s a dangerous place to be at the best of times - in Australia we talk about “murdering” a beer, we don’t mess around - but after a week like this, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Sorry, it’s short this week, I’m thirsty … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HYT Introduces the Flow SJX Watches
HYT Sep 17, 2020

HYT Introduces the Flow

A pioneer in the hydro-mechanical display of time – where time is indicated by liquid in tubes – HYT has furthered its novel time display by lighting up the liquid display. Not merely with luminescent paint as is convention, but with dynamo-powered LEDs. First installed in the H4 of 2016, the illuminated-liquid display now returns with the sleek HYT Flow. Contained in a rounded, almost organic case with sweeping lines on the dial, the Flow features an LED at six o’clock. It launches with two versions: the simpler one having a a light ring around the aperture at six, and the other – which is more lavish and interesting – is equipped with lights underneath a dome set with baguette diamonds. Initial thoughts While LED lighting is not new, it remains the highlight. It is definitely not something conceived for functionality and legibility in the dark, but instead as a complication with brilliant visual appeal. The diamond-set variant, in particular, offers a stunning light show thanks to the highly refractive and reflective nature of the gemstone – albeit at a steep price of well over US$160,000. Functionally the Flow remains similar to its predecessors, but the entirety of the design has streamlined compared to the angular styling of the brand’s earliest watches. The case is rounded, with lines that flow, which is complement by the open-worked wave pattern on the dial. Crucial elements like the minute hand and power reserve indicator are on the dial, while the t...

Hamilton Introduces the Khaki Aviation Converter SJX Watches
Breitling s Navitimer but used Sep 17, 2020

Hamilton Introduces the Khaki Aviation Converter

Once an American watchmaker that was a global giant, Hamilton is today a Swiss brand best known for its value-proposition, vintage-inspired watches – and providing watches for several Hollywood films. Its speciality is exemplified by watches like the Khaki Field Mechanical, a robust, military-style watch that costs less than US$500. Hamilton has just unveiled a new collection of affordable pilot’s watches, the Khaki Aviation Converter. The line up is made up of three watches – time and date, GMT, and chronograph – all equipped with a slide-rule bezel for cockpit calculations and conversions. From left: the base model automatic, the GMT, and the chronograph in two variants Initial thoughts As with the most of the watches in the Khaki collection, the Converter is appealing in design and no doubt solidly, if simply, constructed. While it might not be the most original in design – the slide-rule bezel is synonymous with Breitling’s Navitimer but used by many brands – the Converter is strong value. Starting at US$995 for the automatic and rising to US$2,145 for chronograph, the collection is a good entry into watches featuring a slide-rule bezel. The bezel features double-row knurling for good grip The generic design aside, it is heartening to see that attention has been paid to the details. With the large, luminous hands and contrasting colours, legibility appears good. The movements are visible through the case back, something that can be captivating for a beg...

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Collection It’s been Sep 15, 2020

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection

It’s been a great year for new watches, and one of the biggest contributors to this slew of attractive wristwatches is TAG Heuer, who continue their run of strong releases in 2020. The latest release from the La Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaker is the TAG Heuer Carrera Collection, adding another feather to the Carrera cap after the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.