In-Depth: Ben Clymer, John Mayer, and Lucas Raggi Get Nerdy On AP's New Caliber 7138 Perpetual Calendar
We think AP's new caliber is such a big deal, we drafted in some big guns to go deeper with it.
2,280 articles · 29 videos found · page 45 of 77
Hublot's 2005 "Art of Fusion" chronograph that reshaped 21st-century luxury.
42 mm × 14.5 mm, lug 22 mm, Cal. HUB1280
44 mm × 14.5 mm, lug 22 mm, Cal. HUB1280
42 mm × 14.5 mm, lug , Cal. HUB1280
We think AP's new caliber is such a big deal, we drafted in some big guns to go deeper with it.
Worn & Wound
It’s a common refrain here at Worn & Wound: every year is an anniversary. Like death, taxes, and Photoshop renders of what collectors predict the new Rolex will look like, the celebration of anniversaries in the watch industry is a certainty. We’re not complaining. An anniversary of an important watch or collection is a great time to take stock, and there have certainly been plenty of desirable releases over the years centered around big anniversaries. This year, Bell & Ross is celebrating 20 years of the BR-03 collection, their iconic square watch that has become the “face” of the brand over the past two decades. The celebration begins with the new BR-03 Skeleton, a collection of three watches that capitalizes on a big trend across all sectors of watchmaking while removing the BR-03 from its aviation themed roots, at least a little bit. Bell & Ross has been making skeletonized watches for years (often as part of their Skull series), and these watches highlight their proficiency in that area, and also take advantage of their creativity with lume. The new BR-03 Skeleton is available in three variants: Black Ceramic, Grey Steel, and Lum Ceramic. All three feature 41mm cases and a new movement, the BR-CAL.328, designed specifically for these watches. While the specs of the caliber are in line with previous time only movements used in recent BR-03 releases (like those, it has a 54 hour power reserve) its architecture has been adjusted, highlighting an “X” motif...
Teddy Baldassarre
Today we keep our post-Watches & Wonders 2025 recaps going with our takes on the best all-new watches of the show. We know there are a lot of line and color extensions released every year but what stood out to us from all the truly new watches? Well, to nobody’s surprise, there is now a watch release that has appeared on all three of three Editors’ Picks we have published so far. Also some smaller brands had big releases we loved this year, so let’s get into them. Mark Bernardo: Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR] As always when a gaggle of nerdy watch writers share opinions and ideas, there was a bit of discussion prior to this article as to what constitutes a “new” watch. Does a new case size count, or a new movement or complication in an existing model, or a model from the past that has been radically redesigned but carries the same name? Hopefully I have deftly evaded these eternal (but fascinating) debates by submitting the “newest” and most groundbreaking timepiece I encountered this year. It has to be “new” if it sets a new world record, right? In the case of the Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR], the milestone in question is debuting as the lightest mechanical dive watch ever made - just 52 grams in total, including the strap.The watch is an evolution of 2021’s Diver X Skeleton, which itself emerged from the mainstream (non-skeleton) Diver series, but takes that model’s extreme openworked structure to another level; according to the brand, the inside of the 4...
Fratello
The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P was a surprise at Watches and Wonders 2025. It’s been a long time since the brand introduced a clean, simple watch at a big annual show like this, and it was welcome. Today, we’ll take a closer look at this gem. For Patek Philippe, 2024 was the year of double […] Visit Hands-On With The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P to read the full article.
Time+Tide
We've seen what all the big box brands had to show, but what about the indies?The post 6 of the most exciting independent watches of Geneva Watch Week 2025 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The calm after the storm: that’s how I would describe the state of the week... Although there were plenty of big watch releases!The post New releases from Jaeger-LeCoultre, Audemars Piguet, Louis Moinet and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Although I became a big Depeche Mode fan later, the most annoying song of the 1980s was “Just Can’t Get Enough.” The overly simple melody by the English electronic band haunted me when it played on the radio and when it wasn’t on. That simple song, with its sharp synthesizer sounds, square and steady disco […] Visit I Just Can’t Get Enough Of The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.
Fratello
There are always surprises at the major watch shows. This year, one of the unexpected releases was the Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof, a recreation of a manual-wind ’60s watch. The size and some other touches are true to the original. The big names dominate the scene at a show like Watches and Wonders. We spend hours […] Visit Introducing: The Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof to read the full article.
Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin celebrates its grand 270th anniversary this year. For a brand with such an illustrious and storied past, an anniversary of this calibre means rolling out the big guns. To commemorate the date, Vacheron Constantin unveils a new high-end manufacture calibre combining a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar. Limited to 127 pieces and presented […]
Hodinkee
A slightly slimmer big watch with some even bigger upgrades.
Fratello
For Watches and Wonders 2025, Jaeger-LeCoultre decided to go big with its Reverso collection once more. Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced this watch meant for polo players nearly a century ago. Today, however, watch enthusiasts and collectors consider the Reverso a dress watch more than anything else. With the latest Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in full pink gold […] Visit Hands-On: The New Pink Gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
It’s a big year, literally and figuratively, for the Black Bay. This year, Tudor has introduced the all new Black Bay 68, continuing with a naming convention that began with the Black Bay 58 all those years ago. The new Black Bay 68 fills out the range of vintage inspired Black Bays with an all new size for the range, coming in at 43mm. According to Tudur, the new size was created to meet demand from customers who wanted a dive watch with a larger footprint. After the Black 58 and Black Bay 54 (both under 40mm) and the longstanding “standard” Black Bay coming in at 41mm, the Black Bay 68 represents genuinely new ground for the collection in terms of size, and signals that the small watch trend that many say started with the Black Bay 58 might be coming to an end. If you’re familiar with the various forms of the Black Bay, there won’t be too many surprises here. The case is stainless steel with a unidirectional black bezel, with dial options in blue and silver. The dials are subtly domed and have a barely-there radially brushed finish, and are matched with large lume filled hour markers. The hands are the now familiar “Snowflake” style launched in 1969. While the case is 43mm, the important thing to note about these watches is that they are proportionally identical to the Black Bay 54 and Black Bay 58. So, in spite of the larger size, they wear in a way that feels quite familiar if you’ve spent any time at all with either of those earlier Black Bays. Accor...
Hodinkee
It's a big move for the Black Bay line.
Worn & Wound
Few watch brands can resist the siren song of a major anniversary as an excuse to release a cool limited edition (or two, or…more). Zenith, of course, is no exception, and this year marks a big milestone: 160 years. We expect that there will be many celebratory watches beyond what’s unveiled this week in Geneva, but out of the gate Zenith is focusing attention on a segment of the catalog that has loomed large for much of their recent history, the chronograph. “El Primero” and “Zenith” are terms that are nearly interchangeable to some, so it makes sense that they’d spend some time leaning into the complication most associated with the brand. The new Blue Ceramic Chronograph Trilogy is made up of, you guessed it, blue ceramic versions of Zenith’s most important modern chronographs: the Chronomaster Sport, the Defy Skyline Chronograph, and the Pilot Chronograph. Together, these three watches cover much of the ground Zenith has worked in over the past few years, a period of real expansion for the brand where we’ve seen them decisively into watches that feel very contemporary and of the current moment. Zenith has also quietly been one of the great innovators in the subset of ceramic watchmaking, with many colorful and sometimes unexpected ceramic references dotting their entire collection. Blue ceramic was chosen for this release because of the color’s close association with the brand and its history. According to Zenith, it all stems from Zenith founder...
Time+Tide
Patek's classy Calatrava gets a big energy upgrade.The post An all-new, 192-hour movement for the Patek Philippe Calatrava 8 Day 5328G appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Here we are. Watches and Wonders, the main event of the year for the watch industry and the watch community, has not opened its doors yet, but Rolex has already released its new models for 2025. And this is it, the big news is here… The Crown is introducing a brand-new collection – something that […]
Hodinkee
The sequel to the ever-popular M.A.D.1 has big shoes to fill.
Quill & Pad
Out of the Big Three, Patek Philippe prices fell the most in both the past month and past year. Audemars Piguet prices were effectively flat in February, and Rolex prices rose very slightly.
Worn & Wound
More now than ever it seems, watch companies fight their way onto the big screen through influencer programs or partnership deals with film production companies. Sometimes the partnership feels natural and complements the film, though the savvy enthusiast can still spot a brand deal when it is played out in front of them. However, there are the rare occasions where a watch is chosen by the actor, the director, costume designer, or even the writer. Those instances are special as they better integrate into the final piece and add a bit of fun watch spotting for the enthusiast. I recently had the opportunity to join the Blancpain team in Santa Fe, NM for a special world premier screening of the new George R.R. Martin story directed by Paul W.S. Anderson, In The Lost Land. The film takes place in a dystopian reality and stars Milla Jovovich and Dave Bautista with the Blancpain Carrousel Répétition Minutes Chronographe Flyback taking center stage with a prominent feature as an ancient and coveted relic. Watching the movie, the casual enthusiast may be left with questions such as why they chose this particular watch, how did Blancpain work their way on set, and was it a real watch at all? Well, we had the opportunity to sit down for a roundtable interview with George R.R. Martin, Paul W.S. Anderson, and Milla Jovovich to try and answer these questions ourselves. Perhaps most interestingly, this partnership is one that reaches back quite a long time ago while the film was v...
Time+Tide
Besides Omega and Hamilton, the rest of our selection this week is exclusively watches from non-big box brands. Exciting!The post New releases from Laurent Ferrier, Kurono Tokyo, Taos and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
For many years, Mido has been one of the discreet, accessible brands of the Swatch Group, releasing very decent watches but possibly lacking some wow effect. Things changed recently, as the brand seems to have found its own pace. Think, for instance, about the cool Decompression Timer 1961, the Multifort TV Big Date as an […]
Time+Tide
With Watches and Wonders Geneva just around the corner, we predict big things from Tudor for 2025.The post Tudor 2025 predictions – why Rolex’s little sibling could end up overshadowing it this year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
For most of my watch-buying life, fun dive watches have mostly been big dive watches. Colorful, loud, capable waterproof options have tended to correspond with case dimensions of equal impact and presence, while the sub-40mm dive watch space has belonged to relatively sedate interpretations of the classic dive watch formula - and even then, 39mm has been the sweet spot for ‘small’ divers. But over the last few release cycles (if those even exist anymore), we’ve started to see signs of a shift, and I can think of few better examples of this change than the Zenith Defy Revival Diver A3648, released last year as part of Zenith’s grand re-entry into the dive space. Last summer, I got to spend a few weeks with the Zenith Defy Revival Diver’s bigger, brasher brother, the Defy Extreme Diver, and I came away wildly impressed. The Defy Extreme Diver was a watch that punched way above its weight class (or at least its price point) while feeling like a genuinely novel take on a modern dive watch from a brand with shockingly little history in the space. So when I had the chance to spend some time with that watch’s vintage-inspired counterpart, I jumped. This extended visit with the Revival Diver wasn’t my first hands-on experience with the watch - I got to spend a few minutes with it when I went to pick up the Extreme Diver back in June - but on that day, I didn’t find myself particularly taken with the Revival. While I’ve long admired Zenith’s dual identity...
Hodinkee
Former APRP and Girard-Perregaux talent join up for a bid to become the next big, complicated name on the international watch stage.
Welcome to episode one hundred of A Week in Watches! It’s hard to believe we’ve reached this milestone-what started in 2022 as a weekly rundown of the latest watch releases has now spanned two and a half years. We’ve covered countless releases from big brands, independent watchmakers, and everything in between. There have been plenty of opinions shared, a few laughs along the way, and most importantly, a thriving community of viewers who have made this journey so rewarding. Your continued support, comments, and enthusiasm keep this show going. To mark episode 100, we wanted to do something special, so we reached out to the Worn & Wound Plus Slack community and our Instagram followers for a special AMA session with Zach Weiss. Thank you to everyone who submitted questions, and apologies if we didn’t get to yours. This episode is made possible by the Windup Watch Shop, featuring Worn & Wound’s latest limited edition collaboration with Nivada Grenchen-the 36mm Meca-Quartz Datomaster in green and teal with a hint of purple. Check those out and more here. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 100: AMA! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
From their distinctive lower-case name to their cohesive brand aesthetics, echo/neutra has upheld a reputation of stylized simplicity since their founding in 2019. With the Averau 39 Moon Phase, released in 2022 as a follow-up to the original Averau field watch, the young Italian brand proved that they could introduce complications without sacrificing the clean design ethos they’ve since become known for. A “Big Moon” version with both black and white dial options would follow in 2024 and become arguably the brand’s most recognizable watch, due to its strikingly photo-realistic moon disc. For the new Averau 39 Moon Phase Noctilum, however, echo/neutra has plucked the traditional double-moon phase indication from the first Moon Phase model and given it a new minimalist look. A limited edition project joint-helmed by echo/neutra and Ace Jewelers of Amsterdam, the Noctilum emphasizes bold legibility-while the subdial at the 6 o’clock position remains, the realistically-textured moons have been replaced by contrasting black and luminous white alternatives. Continuing with the paring-down of design elements, the hands and 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock indices are the same matte black as the dial, but feature luminous white borders, creating an impressively emotive and legible “inverted lume” effect in dark conditions. Further deviating from the original, the Noctilum deletes the Arabic hour numerals and the “2649 MSLM” script between 7 and 8 o’clock. The r...
Fratello
Last year’s big Tudor releases during Watches and Wonders were the Black Bay 58 GMT and the black version of the Master Chronometer Black Bay. The latter was quickly nicknamed Black Bay “Monochrome,” to be more specific. With Watches and Wonders 2025 around the corner, an obvious next release would be the Master Chronometer Black […] Visit A Much-Desired Encounter With The Master Chronometer Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet kicks off its 150th anniversary in a big way with an all-new perpetual calendar movement, the Audemars Piguet Calibre 7138. Making its debut in both the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak, the cal. 7138 is a landmark in traditional perpetual calendars. In fact, the movement is perhaps the most sophisticated and user-friendly perpetual calendar from an establishment brand. The calendar relies on the classic “grand lever” mechanism that’s been reinvented in an ultra-thin manner, but more importantly, the cal. 7138 employs an ingenious and innovative setting mechanism. Consequently, it is impressively intuitive and also foolproof. All the calendar indications are set via the crown, and the movement can’t be broken by setting it at the wrong time. Together, these features mark the cal. 7138 out as one of the most notable perpetual calendar movements on the market today. The cal. 7138 debuts in the Code 11.59 (left) and Royal Oak. Image – Audemars Piguet Initial thoughts The perpetual calendar has long been a key part of the history of Audemars Piguet (AP), especially after the bestselling ref. 5548 was launched in 1978. So a brand-new perpetual calendar for its 150th anniversary is fitting. At the same time, the calibre illustrates AP’s tremendous advances as a vertically integrated, industrial-haute horlogerie manufacture that has developed an splendid stable of in-house calibres in a relatively short period of time. The irony is that the cal. 7138 is almost...
Time+Tide
Ahead of the big day on March 8th, we wanted to do a run-through of all of the watches you can buy exclusively at British Watchmakers' Day. The post Every British Watchmakers’ Day 2025 special edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
When it comes to “big” and “busy”, few do it better than the Citizen Promaster Navihawk. With a commanding presence packed with information, the aviation icon has always proven to be accessible in price, but not so much in size. That’s all changing, however, as Citizen unveils the 40mm Promaster Navihawk as part of their revamped Promaster Air collection. Designed to favor legibility and functionality, the 40mm Navihawk will look familiar to those who know the larger model. It features a stainless steel case with satin finishing, polished accents, and a knurled crown, ringed by a rotating slide rule bezel. Inside the flat sapphire crystal, a complementary internal flange borders a metallic dial, available in three colors-khaki green, copper, and silver. According to Citizen, the 40mm Navihawk features ⅕ second chronograph timing up to 60 minutes, and 12- and 24-hour time displays. Three black chronograph subdials take up the bottom half of the dial, and a rotated date indicator sits between the 4 and 5 indices. To balance out the date’s stilted location, printed details proclaiming the 200m water resistance and the Navihawk logo occupy the same location on the other side, between the 7 and 8 indices. Inside, the 40mm Navihawk upholds the original model’s reputation of reliability and practicality. Citizen’s proprietary Caliber B620 Eco-Drive movement utilizes solar power to keep the watch running without use of a battery-very handy for those wit...
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