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Plan-les-Ouates

Geneva industrial suburb; modern manufactures of Patek Philippe (1996), Vacheron Constantin (2005), Piaget (2001), Rolex case-making.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Astronomical Grand Complication “Ode to Music” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Apr 24, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Astronomical Grand Complication “Ode to Music”

Just revealed at Watches & Wonders 2020, the Les Cabinotiers Astronomical Grand Complication “Ode to Music” is the latest chiming watch to emerge from Ateliers Cabinotiers, Vacheron Constantin’s dedicated department for commissions and ambitious unique pieces that showcase the brand’s technical as well as artisanal skills. If the watch looks familiar, that’s because it is based on the Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, the most complicated wristwatch ever created by Vacheron Constantin at the time of its launch in 2017, but more importantly, the most comprehensive astronomical complication wristwatch ever made. The new Ode to Music retains all of its astronomical prowess, but replaces the tourbillon with a minute repeater, while omitting the tide indicator and power reserve display. Rebuilt grand comp As a result, the Ode to Music retains the same astronomical display module but is actually constructed on an entirely different base movement from the Celestia. While the Celestia relied on a base movement with a tourbillon and six barrels, the Ode to Music utilises the minute repeating cal. 1731, a wide but ultra-thin movement measuring just 3.9 mm high. Comprising a total of 600 parts, the resulting cal. 1731M820 is hand-wound, with a frequency of 3Hz and a 60-hour power reserve on a single barrel. Because of the thinner base movement, the Ode to Music clocks in at a relatively svelte 12.45 mm high, versus 13.6 mm for the Celestia. ...

New: Vacheron Constantin Novelties for 2020 with Editorial commentary Deployant
Vacheron Constantin Novelties Apr 24, 2020

New: Vacheron Constantin Novelties for 2020 with Editorial commentary

Vacheron Constantin Novelties for 2020 For 2020, Vacheron Constantin highlights iconic creations and its watchmaking savoir-faire with new additions to the Traditionnelle and Fiftysix collection, rare crafts and one-of-a-kind creations from the Les Cabinotiers collection, and displaying sporty elegance with extreme technical feats from the Overseas collection. Traditionelle Tourbillon & Traditionelle Tourbillon Jewellery Vacheron ConstantinRead More

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Grand Complication Split-Seconds Chronograph “Tempo” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Apr 24, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Grand Complication Split-Seconds Chronograph “Tempo”

Three years after the debut of Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication boasting 23 complications, Vacheron Constantin has topped its own achievement at Watches & Wonders 2020 by launching Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-Seconds Chronograph “Tempo”. Without going into the minefield of what counts as a complication; the new Grand Complication incorporates 24 complications, if each function counts as one – with everything displayed on a massive, two-faced case. A reversible giant In addition to showing the time, the Grand Complication includes a minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar, split-seconds chronograph as well as a number of astronomical indications including equation of time, sunrise and sunset times, plus a retrograde moon phase. The reverse face Unsurprisingly, the case is enormous – 50 mm wide and 21 mm high. But it is intriguingly designed – perfectly symmetrical in profile, the case allows the watch to be worn with either side facing up thanks to a quick-release strap. Swapping faces is a matter of unlatching the strap, flipping the watch over, and reinstalling the strap. Time, chronograph and perpetual calendar on the front; tourbillon, running Equation of Time, retrograde moon phase and times for sunrise and sunset on the back Mechanical layer cake Inside is the cal. 2756, which is derived from the cal. 2755, a movement first found in the Traditionnelle Calibre 2755 grand complication that has since been iterated ...

RECOMMENDED READING: Vacheron Constantin are removing the dangers of buying vintage watches Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin are removing Feb 9, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Vacheron Constantin are removing the dangers of buying vintage watches

Towards the end of last year I was fortunate enough to experience the Vacheron Constantin Les Collectionneurs watches in the metal. They are a shining example of something that many watch manufacturers are looking to execute - exceptional pre-owned pieces sold by the manufacturer. The program has been running for a number of years now, where … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Vacheron Constantin are removing the dangers of buying vintage watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kees Engelbarts Tourbillon Organic Skeleton – Reprise Quill & Pad
Dec 14, 2019

Kees Engelbarts Tourbillon Organic Skeleton – Reprise

Extraordinary engraver Kees Engelbarts loves his skeletonized watches as they do very much showcase his art form. “I wanted to make another kind of skeleton watch,” he says about his creation called Tourbillon Organic Skeleton. “Most skeleton watches are, as you know, very symmetric. My plan was to make a skeleton watch without a drawing or plan before starting, by just taking away material from the base plate and bridges that is not needed.”

De Bethune Introduces the Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces Nov 20, 2019

De Bethune Introduces the Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia

Shaped like an extraterrestrial seashell, the De Bethune Dream Watch 5 (DW5) is the brand’s most striking timepiece. It’s simple in function – showing just the time and moon phase – but more of a time-telling object than a mere watch. The new Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia is the opposite of the sleek, smooth finish of the original Dream Watch. The rose gold case is fully engraved with a motif from Les Cités obscures, or The Obscure Cities, a series of graphic novels by Belgian duo François Schuiten and Benoît Peeters. Specifically, the engraving depicts Armilia, an underground city of the novels that’s shaped like an armillary sphere. François Schuiten’s original drawing of Armilia Responsible for the engraving is Michele Rothen Rebetez, a freelance engraver based in Le Locle who has worked with De Bethune for several years, most recently on the Maestri Art I and II. Instead of the deeper, relief engraving that Ms Rothen Rebetez typically uses for watches, the DW5 Armilia is finished with banknote style engraving, made up of numerous fine, shallow lines to create depth and shadow. The DW5 is produced in two sizes, and the DW5 Armilia is in the larger, 58mm size. Mechanically, it is identical to the standard DW5, with the time indicated in a narrow window, along with the spherical moon phase display, both framed in blued titanium. The cal is 18k rose gold, while the crown is topped with a 1-carat blue sapphire.   Key facts and price Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia R...

Dubai Watch Week Returns – Nov 20-24 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Nov 17, 2019

Dubai Watch Week Returns – Nov 20-24

Returning for the fifth time, Dubai Watch Week (DWW) will take place from November 20-24, once again at the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC), a sprawling complex of offices, shops, restaurants, and three hotels, which is entirely self contained, making a visit to DWW easy to plan. As is tradition, the event includes exhibitions, watchmaking classes, and talks. Amongst the speakers will be Masayuki Hirota, an eminent Japanese watch journalist and the editor of Chronos Japan, who will be speaking about Grand Seiko. And DWW once again includes the Horology Forum, a series of panel discussions that take place daily. Panellists this year include journalists like Ariel Adams of aBlogtoWatch, watchmakers like Philippe Dufour and Stephen Forsey; brand chiefs including Karl-Friedrich Scheufele of Chopard, Jean-Claude Biver of LVMH, and Benoit Minitiens of Ressence; as well as watch collectors like San Francisco-based Jeffrey Kingston, and Aldis Hodge, an American actor who is also a jury member of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve. And naturally the speakers’ roster also includes prominent local personalities, including collector Hamdan Al Hudaidi and Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi, chief commercial officer of Seddiqi Holding, the parent company of DWW’s organiser. A panel session at DWW 2018 And some newcomers Rolex is taking part for the first time in DWW, and bringing along with it the Oyster Perpetual Submariner exhibition, a series of displays within a sh...

RECOMMENDED READING: This unique Vacheron Constantin Don Pancho is coming up for auction. The big question is, how much will it go for? Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Don Pancho Apr 16, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: This unique Vacheron Constantin Don Pancho is coming up for auction. The big question is, how much will it go for?

Vacheron Constantin is famous for its ability to create custom or one-off watches for clients (to learn more about their Les Cabinotiers department, click here). And given the brand’s exceptionally long history, it should come as no surprise that Vacheron Constantin has been making custom pieces for a long time indeed. Phillips is auctioning off … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: This unique Vacheron Constantin Don Pancho is coming up for auction. The big question is, how much will it go for? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ep. #26 – The Two Broke Watch Snobs official site release + Watch Adventures in Vegas Two Broke Watch Snobs
Apr 18, 2017

Ep. #26 – The Two Broke Watch Snobs official site release + Watch Adventures in Vegas

Yeaaay! It's here! The website is officially up! A huge thank you to the #watchfam and everyone that really encouraged us to get this done! In this week's episode we talk about what the site means for our (and the whole TBWS community's) future going forward. Plus we break down the huge ethical dilemma present in modern watch journalism and how it's doing you a disservice (and how we plan on addressing that moving forward).

VIDEO: Leading Melbourne-based style influencer tries her hand at shooting and reviewing the Cartier Hypnose, with surprising results Time+Tide
Cartier Hypnose Dec 20, 2016

VIDEO: Leading Melbourne-based style influencer tries her hand at shooting and reviewing the Cartier Hypnose, with surprising results

It was a complete leap of faith. @thetiafox, Melbourne-based citizen of the world and curator of all things immaculate looks like she was born to work with a watch like the Cartier Hypnose. So, with a little help from Cartier Australia, we arranged for the two to meet. The plan was simple: get them together … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Leading Melbourne-based style influencer tries her hand at shooting and reviewing the Cartier Hypnose, with surprising results appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: 17 priceless Instagram reactions to the new Rolex Air-King (NSF precious Rolex fans) Time+Tide
Rolex Air-King NSF precious Rolex Aug 1, 2016

LIST: 17 priceless Instagram reactions to the new Rolex Air-King (NSF precious Rolex fans)

After the release of the Rolex Air-King at Baselworld 2016 things went pretty much to plan for the Big Crown. People declared their love: Others expressed that their feelings were hard to understand, but overall positive… There was a bit of wrestling with emotions… Strange things were happening… But then, the situation escalated. It seemed the world of … ContinuedThe post LIST: 17 priceless Instagram reactions to the new Rolex Air-King (NSF precious Rolex fans) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Top Lots From Antiquorum’s Record Setting ONLY WATCH 2013 Benefit Revolution
Oct 3, 2013

Top Lots From Antiquorum’s Record Setting ONLY WATCH 2013 Benefit

From The Only Watch Preview, Antiquorum New York. This year marked the 5th edition of the ONLY WATCH benefit auction, a long-standing partnership between  the Association Monegasque Contre les Myopathies, Antiquorum Auctioneers and the Monaco Yacht Show.  ONLY WATCH benefits research into finding a successful treatment and cure for Duchenne muscular dystrophy, the most severe form […]

Hands On: Victor Kullberg Tourbillon Pocket Chronometer SJX Watches
Patek Philippe worldtime ref 2523 2 days ago

Hands On: Victor Kullberg Tourbillon Pocket Chronometer

Phillips’s upcoming sale The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIII is packed with spectacular watches, including some already well known to collectors like the extra complicated La Royale by Louis Audemars, an unsual Patek Philippe worldtime ref. 2523, and the Golay Fils & Stahl astronomical watch. But among the finest is a simple watch that tracks only the time and state of wind, yet is comprised of several hundred parts: Victor Kullberg No 6583. Behind those three hands is a one-minute tourbillon equipped with an Earnshaw detent escapement, a massive free-sprung compensation balance, anti-magnetic helical balance spring and reverse chain and fusee, making it one of the most elaborate three-hand watches imaginable. Even at its high estimate of US$102,000, this pocket chronometer amounts to something of a steal, especially in an auction where multiple steel sports watches carry much greater estimates. The cult of the chronometer Swiss and English horologists disagreed on a great many things, from the ideal shape and material of escape wheels to the definition of a chronometer. To the Swiss, the title of chronometer was bestowed based on merit as a timekeeper. Any watch could be one if it kept good time, especially with a trusted, independent attestation of its accuracy. Watches submitted to observatory trials — or tested according to the ISO 3159:2009 standard today — are chronometers by this reckoning. England was dominated by the cult of the [marine] chronometer, unsurprisin...

Hands On: Piaget Polo Signature Date SJX Watches
Piaget Polo Signature Date Ten 3 days ago

Hands On: Piaget Polo Signature Date

Ten years after the Polo S, Piaget reimagines the contemporary Polo Date with the brand’s signature gadroon motif. The Polo Signature Date is less a new watch than a clarification: a move to anchor the collection around a more explicit identity. This took place through a two-step process. First, the reinstatement of the historical reference with the Piaget Polo 79. Then, the diffusion of its codes – most notably the gadroons – into the contemporary line, now organised under the Polo Signature name. The result is a watch that remains technically unchanged, but conceptually more defined. The unchanged movement — the automatic cal. 1110P — remains in reliable service. Initial thoughts At first glance, the change is straightforward: the dial now carries the gadroon motif. But more importantly, it gives the watch a clearer and more distinctly Piaget presence. The overall architecture remains familiar – 42 mm case, cushion-shaped dial within a round frame, interchangeable bracelet – yet the visual impression is stronger. Where earlier Polo Date models relied on relatively neutral surfaces, this dial interacts more actively with light, creating contrast and a stronger sense of identity on the wrist. This is perhaps where the update is most effective. The Polo becomes more immediately recognisable, less reliant on its case shape alone. The gadroons do not transform the watch, but they sharpen its character within the crowded luxury sports watch segment. From motif to...

Complicated Collectors: Edgar Mannheimer SJX Watches
Breguet watches assembled 3 days ago

Complicated Collectors: Edgar Mannheimer

London, 1965. Christie’s had arranged the third and final part of the Sir David Salomons Collection for sale — a sequence of Breguet watches assembled by the Victorian baronet whose obsession with Abraham-Louis Breguet had produced the most important English-language study of the watchmaker’s work. When the bidding closed, one man had bought every lot in the catalogue. Continuing our ongoing Complicated Collectors series, Edgar Mannheimer left an indelible mark on watch collecting. He was 40 years old, and had settled in Zurich a decade earlier with nothing but the instincts he had developed in the post-war black markets of Germany. He was not a collector in the sense that he did not keep what he bought. What he did, with a consistency and conviction that separated him from every other figure in the mid-century horological trade, was understand, ahead of the market, what something was worth. The Salomons lots were subsequently divided between two collectors. It was, in miniature, a portrait of how Mannheimer operated: he absorbed the risk, resolved the complexity, and left his clients with the watches. Neutitschein and Auschwitz Edgar Mannheimer was born on December 23, 1925, in Neutitschein, Moravia, into a family whose presence in the town was visible and established. His father ran Marsmalz, a confectionery business prominent enough to operate the community’s first delivery van — a small but telling detail about the family’s position within a world where Je...