Deployant
New: Gerald Genta Minute Repeater
Last week, during Geneva Watch Days 2025 gérald genta unveils The Minute Repeater. Here is the release inforrmation and our commentary.
Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys
30,356 articles · 157 videos found · page 455 of 1018
Deployant
Monochrome
First Look – The Monochromatic Bremont Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey
With CEO Davide Cerrato at the helm, Bremont has undergone a sea change, and many feared that its rugged tool watches would be transformed beyond recognition. However, earlier this year, fans were pleased to discover the new Altitude MB Meteor, an incredibly resilient pilot’s watch based on the former MB1. Part of the refreshed Altitude […]
Fratello
A Hands-On Introduction To The New Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Power Reserve
Hamilton’s Khaki Field line is the brand’s most popular and best-known collection. The outdoorsy watches are fan favorites and available in many variations. You can get a Hamilton Khaki Field in myriad sizes, with quartz, automatic, and hand-wound calibers, as well as with many dial options. But today, the brand introduces a new complication on […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The New Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Power Reserve to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
WatchCharts July 2025 Watch Market Update: Performance of Top Brands Remains Mixed
For the fourth month in a row, the picture of performance at the top remains mixed: the WatchCharts Overall Market Index fell by -0.1%, prices for Rolex fell by -0.2% and by -0.3% for Audemars Piguet. However, Patek Philippe prices rose by +0.6%.
SJX Watches
Fleury Manufacture Reimagines the Classic Lemania Chronograph
Components-specialist-turned-watch brand Fleury Manufacture created its own chronograph calibre inspired by the famous Lemania cal. 2310, which debuts in the FXR-4 Chronograph. Given Fleury’s origins as a supplier of parts, the calibre is built almost entirely by Fleury, and to a high standard. And the FXR-4 stands out for another reason: while independent watchmaking is rarely the value proposition it once was, the FXR-4 is priced well. The FM04 movement Initial Thoughts Self-developed chronographs are a risky proposition for high-end independents. Established brands offer fierce competition, and developing a new chronograph calibre is arguably a thankless task today since enthusiasts remain fixated on highly-decorated three handers that offer the watchmaker a greater return on a smaller investment. The FM04 movement inside scores well in terms of construction and finishing. The architecture is more refined than most other Lemania-esque chronographs, with the chronograph driving wheel integrated into the going train. And the finishing, a mix of machine and hand finishing, has enough of the latter to be considered high end; the black-polished clutch lever is especially outstanding. The design of the exterior doesn’t score quite as well, which is not surprising given Fleury’s background as a parts supplier. The date isn’t to my preference – and the date pusher looks strangely large – it will be a meaningful value-add to others. Vacheron Constantin’s Lemania-ba...
Time+Tide
Oracle Time joins forces with Isotope for two living dials
Two striking takes on a classical dial-making technique that's resulted in very modern and contrasting watches. The post Oracle Time joins forces with Isotope for two living dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Hamilton Khaki Field Power Reserve Mechanical 40mm
The Hamilton Khaki Field Collection is one of the cornerstones of the brand, building on the rugged simplicity and reliability of the original soldiers’ watches produced during the 20th century. Known for their straightforward functionality, earthy colours, and robust construction, Khaki Field models have long been appreciated. From hand-wound mechanical editions inspired by WWII field watches […]
SJX Watches
De Bethune Shrinks the DB25 Starry Varius
De Bethune narrows the diameter of the bestselling DB25 Starry Varius but broadens its horizons with an entrancing red-leaning-purple dial achieved by heating titanium. And it’s more than just a pretty face, the DB25xs Starry Varius packs one of the most advanced two-hand manual wound calibres on the market. Initial Thoughts A personal favourite of mine, the Starry Varius line is gorgeous, technically adept, and meaningfully customisable. De Bethune justifies this variant as representing the night sky after a volcanic eruption, and colour perfectly matches viral, and hauntingly beautiful, images taken after the Tonga volcano eruption in 2022. As a chronometry-focused movement that paradoxically lacks a seconds hand, I find the cal. DB2005 very interesting. I’d even argue it makes sense as the six-day power reserve paints it as an endurance timekeeper. It’s also more technically interesting than most of the – very finely decorated – three handers from younger independents, even if Be Bethune’s R&D; efforts have dwindled recently. Under A Sea of Stars The dials are mirror polished titanium, which De Bethune heat oxidises for colour. While the brand’s specific method is proprietary, the thickness of this oxide layer determines which wavelengths of light transmit back to the observer, and this Burgundy dial must have a thinner oxide layer than the brand’s typical blue. Next, artisans set dozens of tiny gold pins into the dial to marks starts, before a micro-mill...
Monochrome
Introducing – More Refined, More Powerful… Meet the New Citizen Tsuyosa 60 Automatic
Since its introduction in 2022, the Tsuyosa collection by Citizen has become one of the brand’s bestselling models… And rightfully so. Combining a 1980s design inspiration with integrated sports watch vibes, an automatic movement and a very reasonable price tag, it’s a great entry-level proposition that has attracted a lot of newcomers to the brand […]
Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre continues strong in 2025 with a flurry of Master tourbillon models
JLC has unveiled new and refined interpretations of its Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 and Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon.The post Jaeger-LeCoultre continues strong in 2025 with a flurry of Master tourbillon models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Reading Time at HSNY: Horology FAQ
Behind the scenes at one of the world's most unique and comprehensive archives of horology.
Deployant
New: The Citizen exciting Fall Winter releases
Citizen's The Citizen is one of the watches which get us excited these days, and for Fall and Winter, we see two additional new models being released.
Fratello
Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer
Upcycling, the process of transforming materials that would otherwise be discarded into new products of higher value through thoughtful design and creativity, is a current theme, and that’s a good thing. You’ll get my point by looking at the new Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529. The elegant 40.2mm watch features a strap made of […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Hanhart Preventor HD12 Silk Purple
The everyday watch, the one-watch collection… A timepiece that blends ruggedness with refinement, capable of moving seamlessly from the office desk to the mountain trail. This is what Hanhart set out to achieve with the Preventor HD12, introduced in 2024 as the brand’s vision of a modern, go-anywhere, do-anything timepiece. Compact, scratch-resistant and deliberately simple, […]
Time+Tide
Living la dolce vita acquatica with the HTD Aquatìc MkII
The Florence-based independent watch brand returns with a slim and stylish take on a GADA dive watch.The post Living la dolce vita acquatica with the HTD Aquatìc MkII appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Is The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” A Perfect Summer Watch?
When Tudor released a new “Lagoon Blue” take on the Black Bay 54, I knew I had to get my hands on it. You see, Tudor is a brand I keep coming back to. Unlike Rolex, which pursues constant iterative improvement above all else, Tudor seems to get more leeway to experiment and play with […] Visit Is The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” A Perfect Summer Watch? to read the full article.
Monochrome
Recap – The 10 Best Watches of Geneva Watch Days
In just a couple of short years, Geneva Watch Days has grown from about 20 brands into a global powerhouse fair of 66 officially participating brands, and a lot of others in and around the city showcasing tradition, creativity and innovation in watchmaking. This year, several major brands joined in on the celebration of watches […]
Fratello
One Week With The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35
During Watches and Wonders this year, IWC announced the significant expansion of its Ingenieur line. We saw seven new references, including the one we’re looking at today, the Ingenieur Automatic 35 ref. IW324901, which retails for €11,300. Let’s dive in. IWC’s Ingenieur garnered considerable attention for the brand with the release of so many new […] Visit One Week With The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 to read the full article.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Christopher Ward Twelve 660 Vs. Nivada Grenchen F77
It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for another showdown while the room fills with the smell of freshly made coffee. This week’s battle is all about affordable sports watches with integrated bracelets. Jorg has selected the new manual-winding Christoper Ward Twelve 660, which debuted last week, and Mike will take him on with the Nivada […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Christopher Ward Twelve 660 Vs. Nivada Grenchen F77 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Micromilspec Pilot Worldtimer
Norwegian watchmaking company Micromilspec has only stepped out of the limelight in the past year or two, as it was previously fully focused on military-issued watchmaking for service members and women around the world. Watches like the TMBN Telemark Bataljon, for instance, were made in close collaboration with said bataljon and made available for active […]
Quill & Pad
Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair 2025: Resilience to Turbulence
The Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair (HKCWF), which ran 3-6 September, can be quite a tempestuous event. On the one hand, you can get into the nitty-gritty of this fabulous industry, which is continuously trying to renew itself in the face of rocky markets and a sea change in societal attitudes.
Monochrome
Introducing – New 3D-Printed Dials for the Hautlence Vagabonde Tourbillon Series 4 & 5
Founded in 2004, Hautlence became part of the MELB Holding Group in 2012 and relocated to Shaffhausen to share premises with sister company H. Moser & Cie. Renowned for its unusual and creative displays of time, often showcased in large rectangular retro TV-shaped cases, Hautlence’s first Vagabonde model with wandering digital hours appeared in 2018 […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Louis Moinet 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire
The year 1806 marks an important moment in Louis Moinet’s history, when the master watchmaker created a clock for Napoleon Bonaparte, a landmark commission that symbolised both prestige and ambition. It is after this date that the brand names its latest creation, the 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire, reaffirming its historic importance and renewing its pursuit of […]
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Fratello
Fratello Talks: Geneva Watch Days 2025 Highlights [Live From Geneva]
As Geneva Watch Days 2025 draws to a close, it’s time to look back at some of our highlights from the fair. This bonus Fratello Talks episode was recorded on location at Piaget’s boutique in Geneva, where the team had the opportunity to experience Geneva Watch Days 2025 and all the novelties presented. Set against […] Visit Fratello Talks: Geneva Watch Days 2025 Highlights [Live From Geneva] to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New De Bethune DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon
Following the recent release of the DB25xs Starry Varius, De Bethune continues to refine its icons with the launch of the DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon, another watch that distils the brand´s design language and technical savoir-faire into a more compact format. Drawing on the thin profile of last year’s DB28XP Kind of Blue (43mm […]
WatchAdvice
Hands On With The New TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer
TAG Heuer has released a new look Carrera that is very different to the standard racing-inspired models. The Carrera Astronomer is designed to cast your eyes to the heavens with its new moonphase complication, and we’ve gone hands-on for a review. What We Love The dial design is unique and looks great Very easy to wear and comfortable 39mm size The Beads of Rice bracelet elevates this piece What We Don’t Lack of lume on the dial No micro-adjust on the clasp A date display could have added to the functionality Overall Rating: 8.4 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 For TAG Heuer’s first outing at Geneva Watch Days, it has released some very cool pieces, one of which (well, three really) is the TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer. A new take on the traditional moonphase complication, TAG Heuer has set out to embark on a new phase for the famous Carrera line. It has introduced three different variations of the Carrera Astronomer – A 500-piece limited edition with grey dial accents and leather strap, a seconds 500-piece limited edition two-tone steel and 18k rose gold plated model, and this, which I’m reviewing today – the full stainless steel model as part of the core collection. The new TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer Collection with two limited edition pieces on leather and in two-tone, and the full steel core collection model But why an astronomical complication in the Carrera? So, in 1962, a significant moment in both watc...
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Beda’a Angles Mecaline
Since its debut, the Angles collection has been the cornerstone of Beda’a. Instantly recognisable with its octagonal bezel set upon a sharply angled case middle, the watch embodies geometric precision and refined minimalism. Its stepped layers are finished with alternating brushed and polished surfaces, giving the design an architectural presence that appeals to both men […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Innovative Berneron Quantième Annuel
Independent watchmaking has a special kind of magic. It is where bold ideas meet artisanal execution, free from the constraints of mass production, design by committee, and shareholder interests. Few embody this spirit more convincingly than Sylvain Berneron, whose debut model, the 2023 Mirage, was met with instant critical acclaim. With his second creation, the […] Visit Introducing: The Innovative Berneron Quantième Annuel to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Review: the Furlan Marri Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds
The newest release by independent brand Furlan Marri adds a bit of bling to an out-of-this-world Art Deco staple. The brand teased their release of the new Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds this April at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, after the success of the line’s initial debut last year (which was covered here by Zach Kazan). The addition of diamonds on watches is something I have thought about often. My existence as a woman in the watch world frequently demands a more honest reflection about the intersection of watches and jewelry, and where my preferences fit in. Diamonds can either elevate or detract from a watch as a whole. One of the perks of reviewing watches is that I get to experience a large variety of designs that push the boundaries of my comfort zone and expose me to references that cover a wide array of aesthetics. I’ve been able to wear teeny-tiny little somethings and classically-inspired beauties that often belie the usual style of my personal collection. Certainly, I consider myself a more critical and informed collector because of it. Diamonds can be divisive – something I covered in my analysis of the release of the Doxa Sub 200T Diamonds last year. I will be the first to admit that when I see “diamonds” in the name of a new watch, my defenses go up a bit and I brace myself for subtly garish wealth-signaling disguised as intentional design choices. But when it comes to the new Furlan Marri Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds, I was so relieved to be pro...
Monochrome
First Look – The New Yema Superman Tourbillon Millésime CMM.31
Yema continues to expand its Millésime Editions with yet another statement piece. The new Superman Tourbillon Millésime CMM.31 takes the brand’s most iconic model, the Superman diver introduced in 1963, and reimagines it as a professional-grade tool watch equipped with a manufacture movement with a tourbillon regulator. Usually reserved for rather fragile dress watches, the […]