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Le Locle

The Swiss Jura town where Daniel Jeanrichard planted watchmaking c.1700. Home to Ulysse Nardin, Tissot, Zenith, TAG Heuer HQ.

Hands-On: Two Sporty New Variants Of The Cartier Santos - One In Titanium, The Other In Steel With A Black Dial And Lume Fratello
Cartier Santos - One Oct 7, 2025

Hands-On: Two Sporty New Variants Of The Cartier Santos - One In Titanium, The Other In Steel With A Black Dial And Lume

By now, everyone is aware that the Santos de Cartier is hot stuff. Cartier has certainly realized this and keeps releasing new versions of its square all-metal sports watch. I still love my Santos Galbée XL ref. 2823. However, as a true Cartier Santos fan, I can’t get enough of all the new variations La […] Visit Hands-On: Two Sporty New Variants Of The Cartier Santos - One In Titanium, The Other In Steel With A Black Dial And Lume to read the full article.

First Look – The New Longines Ultra-Chron Classic, the 1967 High-Frequency Watch Faithfully Re-Created Monochrome
Longines Ultra-Chron Classic Oct 3, 2025

First Look – The New Longines Ultra-Chron Classic, the 1967 High-Frequency Watch Faithfully Re-Created

Yesterday, Longines truly impressed with the release of the new Spirit Pilot collection, a duo of deeply refined watches that finally gave the aviation-themed collection the right proportions and a cleaner look. Well, it seems that the brand is on a roll, as today we’ll discover another highly appealing watch. Following the re-edition of the […]

Seiko Orange Monster: Unlikely Icon Or Monstrosity? Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Oct 1, 2025

Seiko Orange Monster: Unlikely Icon Or Monstrosity?

The beginning of October is the official marker of the beginning of spooky season, at least in my opinion. In the spirit of Halloween inching closer and closer on our calendars, I thought it would be fun to take a deep dive into a watch that really channels the energy of the season, at least as far as nicknames go – the Seiko Monster. And, to lean even further into the fanfare, I’ll be focusing solely on the most Halloween-appropriate colorways of the Seiko Monster universe – that’s right, it's the bright, pumpkin-y Seiko Orange Monster from here on out. Below, I’ll be walking you through a little history lesson for context, breaking down the various generations of Seiko’s Monster diver, ultimately to help you determine for yourself if this watch is an unlikely icon or a horological monstrosity.  Seiko Monster Context First things first – the “Monster” moniker is a nickname for this line of divers that the enthusiast community came up with itself, and the brand has yet to embrace it officially. The early 2000s, at large, is representative of something of an identity crisis for the watch world, as the necessity of wristwatches as a time-keeping tool waned. Each brand has its own approach, but when I think of the early 2000s for watches, chunky, bold, imaginative, and somewhat overbuilt pieces are the first things that come to mind, especially on the heels of the relatively conservative watch designs of the 1990s. Ultimately, the origin story of the Seiko ...

SJX Podcast: Quest of Time SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin just unveiled Oct 1, 2025

SJX Podcast: Quest of Time

On episode 11 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the monumental La Quête Du Temps astronomical clock that Vacheron Constantin just unveiled in Paris alongside the companion Quest of Time wristwatch. We also tackle Tudor’s first moon phase complication and what it means for the brand’s collection of dress watches. SJX also shares his views on the news that Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour will be giving the keynote at Dubai Watch Week, a move that’s largely unprecedented for the industry’s most impenetrable brand. We also chat about the other big news in the world of watch fairs, Audemars Piguet’s return to Watches & Wonders in 2026. Last but not least, we discuss what Girard-Perregaux’s new movement platform might reveal about the future of the brand. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Is Watches And Wonders Turning Into Baselworld 2.0? Also, Audemars Piguet Is Back Fratello
Audemars Piguet Sep 29, 2025

Is Watches And Wonders Turning Into Baselworld 2.0? Also, Audemars Piguet Is Back

The SIHH, or Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, was a watch trade show founded in 1991 by Cartier, Baume & Mercier, Piaget, Gerald Genta, and Daniel Roth. Organized by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), the show, compared to Baselworld, aimed to create a more exclusive, high-luxury atmosphere dedicated to fine watchmaking and […] Visit Is Watches And Wonders Turning Into Baselworld 2.0? Also, Audemars Piguet Is Back to read the full article.

Value In Vintage: The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Nivada Grenchen Sep 27, 2025

Value In Vintage: The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic

Nivada Grenchen is always fun to explore. The brand was well regarded in the 20th century for tough tool watches, including a series that went to Antarctica. This led to the Antarctic watch line, and today, we’ll look at a vintage example. Revitalized in recent years, Nivada Grenchen has been going from strength to strength, […] Visit Value In Vintage: The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Under €1,000 From Small Brands Fratello
Sep 26, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Under €1,000 From Small Brands

Another Friday, another list! Today, we’re continuing our series focusing on budget-friendly watches. Not too long ago, we compiled a trio of lists covering the best available watches under €500. For this new series of three articles, we’ll double the budget and focus on the best watches under €1,000. Last week, we kicked off the […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Under €1,000 From Small Brands to read the full article.

Looking At The New Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon Fratello
Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon Glashütte Origin... Sep 25, 2025

Looking At The New Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon

Glashütte Original was founded in 1845, and to commemorate this milestone, the brand has unveiled a stunning new PanoLunarTourbillon. As we’ll see, the watch showcases the best of the manufacture, featuring an in-house movement and dial. With a limited production run and flagship status, this watch won’t be for everyone, but it’s a great example […] Visit Looking At The New Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon to read the full article.

First Look – The new Steel and Purple Dial Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ice Forest SLGB005 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ice Sep 25, 2025

First Look – The new Steel and Purple Dial Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ice Forest SLGB005

Earlier this year, at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, Grand Seiko unveiled a new and rather important collection, fitted with a brand new movement and carrying a meaningful name, the Spring Drive UFA. Now, if you’re a GS fan, you’ll immediately spot the connection with the VFA models of the past, as the new Ultra […]

Industry News – Audemars Piguet to Join Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, Montblanc No Longer Participating Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Sep 23, 2025

Industry News – Audemars Piguet to Join Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, Montblanc No Longer Participating

Initiated back in 2020, even though it was cancelled due to the COVID pandemic alongside Baselworld, Watches and Wonders Geneva was first created as a replacement for the SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) by the FHH, but soon became the highlight of the year for the watch industry, after Baselworld was cancelled entirely. […]

Audemars Piguet Joins Watches & Wonders 2026 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Joins Watches & Wonders Sep 23, 2025

Audemars Piguet Joins Watches & Wonders 2026

Having last exhibited in Geneva six years ago, Audemars Piguet (AP) will return next year as an exhibitor at Watches & Wonders 2026 (WWG). The brand had departed the predecessor of WWG, Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), in 2019 along with Richard Mille, opting instead to launch the latest products at its own events. AP’s return to the exhibition reflects the importance of WWG as the most important trade fair on the horological calendar. It also underlines the importance of exhibiting alongside respected peers. The central hall at WWG 2025 Alongside AP, another ten brands will be showing at the event, ranging from clockmaker L’Epée 1839 to Chinese watchmaker Behrens, as well as Credor (the sister brand of current exhibitor Grand Seiko), and Favre Leuba, a recently rebooted historical name. This brings the total exhibitor tally to 66, a number that includes giants like Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, and Cartier. WWG will take place April 14-20, 2026, at Palexpo.  

Introducing – Jiro Katayama Releases the Otsuka Lotec No.9 with In-House Tourbillon, Striking and Jumping Complications Monochrome
Otsuka Lotec Sep 22, 2025

Introducing – Jiro Katayama Releases the Otsuka Lotec No.9 with In-House Tourbillon, Striking and Jumping Complications

As of now, and given the noise this brand has made in recent months, most seasoned watch enthusiasts are likely familiar with the work of watchmaker Jiro Katayama, the man behind Japan’s sensation, Otsuka Lotec. A brand that focuses on original displays and industrial designs, we have, over the past few years, covered the No. […]

This Isn’t Just Another Octo – This is Art for the Wrist Worn & Wound
Bulgari s Octo Finissimo line Sep 18, 2025

This Isn’t Just Another Octo – This is Art for the Wrist

Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo line has become synonymous with its technical prowess and record-breaking, ultra-thin designs (and for good reason). The collection has notched a whopping ten world records in just over a decade. However, we’ve also seen a softer side to the Octo through Bulgari’s more artistic interpretations of the iconic design.  The most well-known are likely the sketch editions. As the name suggests, these models celebrate the original sketches of the design rendered by the brand’s Product Creation Executive Director, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. Yet, these more playful and aesthetic-focused editions have also been molded through collaborations with a wide array of co-creators from architects like Kazuyo Sejima and Tadao Ando to conductors and composers like Lorenzo Viotti.  Among the Bulgari Octo mashups, the most striking have come from artists themselves. One of the earliest editions came back in 2015 with the Chinese artist Simon Ma. His collection of 13 piece unique watches explored the horse motif of the Chinese zodiac using traditional Chinese calligraphy techniques handpainted on the dial. Three years later, Bulgari enlisted the Japanese painter Hiroshi Senju to interpret a watch with his signature exploration of waterfalls. The resulting design employed mother of pearl on the dial to create a waterfall effect. Next, the Roman Maison took a more contemporary approach, tapping the Japanese artist Tatsuo Miyajima. This collaboration took a le...

What is a Rehaut on a Watch Dial? Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 18, 2025

What is a Rehaut on a Watch Dial?

Most parts of a watch that you’ll encounter in your pursuit of horological knowledge are names that are fairly familiar and mostly self-explanatory: case, dial, hands, movement. (We run down the gamut of the most important watch parts in this article). But now and then, you may read about, or hear someone referring to, a watch’s rehaut - a somewhat intimidating-sounding French term that might give you pause at first. What is a rehaut, and what is it used for? Read on. Put simply, a rehaut (properly pronounced “Re-OHH” without the hard “T” sound at the end) is the French word for “flange,” which is the English term most often used in its place when discussing watches. It describes the rim between the periphery of the dial and the crystal. Unlike dials and cases and hands, not every watch has one. But for many of those that do, the rehaut is not only a frame that fills in the space between the dial edge and the crystal but also a utilitarian element that can add interest and even useful information to the dial itself.  Some watchmakers use the rehaut for staging the hour or minute markers, In the case of chronographs, like the TAG Heuer Carrera featured above, the rehaut can provide a spot for added functional markings like a tachymeter scale (which can use the built-in stopwatch to measure speeds relative to distance) or a pulsimeter (which works with the chronograph to measure heartbeat rates). Other watches might use the rehaut for calendar indications ...

The Rock Watch is Back, and We Smell What Tissot is Cooking Worn & Wound
Tissot Sep 17, 2025

The Rock Watch is Back, and We Smell What Tissot is Cooking

Stone dials, as we’re all aware, have been having a moment over these last couple of years. Time, I suppose, will tell if the prevalence of stone dials across more affordable price ranges is a trend, or just a new part of the watch landscape that we’ll all just accept and live with, like green dials, or carbon cases. With the renewed popularity of this inherently 1970s/80s inspired design cue, it was really only a matter of time before we saw the return of a watch that takes the use of stone to a different level entirely. The Tissot Rock Watch, an artifact of the 1980s if ever there was one, is back, albeit in a limited edition that might be tough to acquire depending on your geography (more on that in a bit).  First, a little background on the Rock Watch. Launched in 1985, Tissot claims that the Rock Watch was the first ever watch with a case and dial made entirely from granite procured from the Swiss Alps. I’ll admit here that I haven’t done a ton of scholarly research on the topic, but I’m willing to take Tissot at face value here simply because granite is a particularly difficult material to work with, requiring highly specific machines and tooling. It’s a watch that doesn’t make a ton of practical sense from a production standpoint, but naturally was quite popular in the mid 80s and eventually spawned an entire collection for Tissot that featured a huge variety of exotic stones. Original Rock Watches from the 1980s The new version of the Rock Watch rema...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Doxa Sub 750T Vs. Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II Fratello
Oris Aquis New York Harbor Sep 14, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Doxa Sub 750T Vs. Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II

Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown! Last week’s installment was all about sleek integrated-bracelet sports watches. This week, we’ll focus on two substantial divers that came out recently. For Geneva Watch Days, Doxa relaunched its Sub 750T with the same 45mm diameter but a slimmer 11.95mm profile. We thought putting that colorful […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Doxa Sub 750T Vs. Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II to read the full article.

echo/neutra Introduces the Averau42 Collection, New Watches with a Hybrid Ceramic-Titanium Case Worn & Wound
Sep 12, 2025

echo/neutra Introduces the Averau42 Collection, New Watches with a Hybrid Ceramic-Titanium Case

One of the real highlights of being involved in our Windup events year to year is getting to know brand owners and founders, and periodically getting a little peek at what’s to come. More and more often, brands come to our events not just with watches in their current catalog, but with early samples of watches they’re planning for the future to show prospective customers, members of the media, and the Worn & Wound team. I won’t lie: it’s a nice perk of being on the inside. A few months ago during the Chicago show, the team at echo/neutra pulled some really exciting stuff out of a bag that was not quite ready for prying eyes. The new Averau42 collection, which at launch consists of a pair of watches combining titanium and ceramic construction, is an exciting next step for a brand that we’ve been interested in for some time.  The heart of these watches is what echo/neutra calls the TiFrame construction. This is an idea we’ve seen a handful of times from other brands, usually bigger brands, in the recent past. These watches are made with an internal titanium case, or frame, that protects the movement and offers tensile strength that ceramic and other alternative materials lack. The outer layer is black ceramic, which provides a virtually scratch proof surface and a moody aesthetic vibe for these watches that fits in nicely with the design codes the brand has established over the past several years. This type of construction, in addition to making the most of the ...

MB&F; Debuts the LM101 EVO Worn & Wound
Hublot who basically invented Sep 9, 2025

MB&F; Debuts the LM101 EVO

There’s a style of watch that I’ve grown particularly fond of over the last few years, and I sometimes find it hard to articulate why. The high end, exotic independent on a rubber strap calls to me like the Sirens. There’s something about the mix of high and low that appeals to me, I think, as it does with everything else I like, from Monty Python to the films of Bong Joon-ho. I also just find a good rubber strap to be one of the most comfortable ways to wear a watch, particularly (but not exclusively) in the warm weather months. And so I’ve nursed a years-long appreciation for Hublot (who basically invented this idea) and have a watch box disproportionately tilted to watches that give me the same feeling (a pair of Arcanauts, and a Bel Canto that lives on rubber year round spring to mind). It should not be surprising, then, that MB&F;’s EVO line has become a personal favorite. The EVO series of watches take Legacy Machine pieces (conceived as MB&F;’s collection inspired by classical watchmaking) and give them a sporty treatment, replacing leather straps with rubber, and adding water resistance and screw down crowns. It makes a ton of sense to create “everyday wear” versions of these watches (if you’re spending into the six figures on these pieces, I imagine you’d want to wear them more frequently, right?) and making them more casual and sporty in appearance is such a natural idea it’s almost hard to believe these haven’t existed from the beginning. N...

Rolex Starbucks Submariner 126610LV Review Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Sep 8, 2025

Rolex Starbucks Submariner 126610LV Review

The Rolex Submariner Ref. 126610LV (or, the Rolex Starbucks, as it has come to be known) was released alongside an entirely updated Submariner collection during the peak pandemic days of late summer 2020. I’ll get into that broader collection update later, but the Starbucks was one of the more attention-grabbing Submariners, given how it went back to the original colorway of the first “Green Sub.” A little context for those not wholly ensconced in the minutae of niche watch references: the first of these was the Rolex Submariner Ref. 16610LV, which dates all the way back to 2003 when it was released to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner. You may better know the 16610LV from its “Kermit” nickname due to its then-novel use of a vibrant green aluminum bezel. This watch was produced until 2010 and is beloved by collectors. One of my favorite instances of celebrity watch spotting was when I noticed Martin Scorsese wearing a Kermit during the filming of Killers of the Flower Moon back in 2023. Following the discontinuation of the Kermit, Rolex released the Submariner Ref. 116610LV in 2010. This model, of course, would go on to be dubbed the “Hulk,” courtesy of its green ceramic bezel and matching green dial. The Rolex Hulk debuted to hot demand alongside the Submariner Ref. 116610LN due to these being the first updated Submariners, with Rolex’s proprietary Cerachrom ceramic bezel and Maxi case, to be made available in steel (the white-gold Submarin...

Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer Fratello
Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” Sep 8, 2025

Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer

Upcycling, the process of transforming materials that would otherwise be discarded into new products of higher value through thoughtful design and creativity, is a current theme, and that’s a good thing. You’ll get my point by looking at the new Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529. The elegant 40.2mm watch features a strap made of […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer to read the full article.

A. Lange & Söhne Elevates the 1815 Tourbillon with a Black Enamel Dial SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 5, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne Elevates the 1815 Tourbillon with a Black Enamel Dial

First introduced in 2014 as A. Lange & Söhne’s “entry-level” tourbillon (if there is such a thing for the German brand), the 1815 Tourbillon now returns as a limited edition in a striking, but familiar, guise. The new 1815 Tourbillon features a glossy black enamel dial – similar to that found on this year’s Minute Repeater Perpetual – and the same L102.1 movement found in the original version. Like the much pricier Minute Repeater Perpetual, the new tourbillon is not a Handwerkskunst edition, but still boasts a hand-enamelled dial made in-house. Initial thoughts As the base model tourbillon in Lange’s catalogue, the 1815 Tourbillon is less elaborate than the brand’s other tourbillon offerings. But it is nonetheless impressive as the tourbillon incorporates both a hacking and zero-reset mechanism. At most other brands, such a movement would be a top-of-the line offering. That said, the earlier versions were a bit plain. Even the limited edition with a white enamel dial was a little mundane. The Handwerkskunst version was outstanding, but it was just 30 pieces. The new 1815 Tourbillon isn’t extravagantly different; it is essentially a cosmetic update. But it makes all the difference. The glossy black dial is tremendously more appealing than the white enamel dial from before, especially since it is achieved with the champleve technique, eliminating the need for printed numerals. That said, it feels a little soon after the Minute Repeater Perpetual that has ...

Bringing Out The Popcorn With The MoonSwatch Mission To Earthphase Fratello
Sep 4, 2025

Bringing Out The Popcorn With The MoonSwatch Mission To Earthphase

I had to look twice at this new MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase Moonshine Gold edition, but it’s a new iteration of the watch introduced last month. In August, for the Sturgeon Moon, the MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase Moonshine Gold had a net-like design on the gold moon disc. This month, it’ll be a Corn Moon […] Visit Bringing Out The Popcorn With The MoonSwatch Mission To Earthphase to read the full article.

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer Sep 4, 2025

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer

For Geneva Watch Days 2025, TAG Heuer has brought a surprising number of new models. One of the favorites is the subject of this article. The Carrera Astronomer is a new addition to the lineup and is available in three references. As we’ll soon see, one is destined for serial production, while two are limited […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer to read the full article.

Do The Robot With The New Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. Fratello
Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R Any Sep 2, 2025

Do The Robot With The New Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R.

Any Czapek will surely suffice to secure some attention and strike up a conversation at a party. A rattrapante Czapek should draw even more of a crowd. But if, for whatever reason, you want to make an even stronger statement, you’ll want a watch with a party trick up its sleeve. Look no further than […] Visit Do The Robot With The New Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. to read the full article.

Sinn Introduces A New EZM 3 S, 556, And 104 Classic 12 Fratello
Sinn Introduces Sep 1, 2025

Sinn Introduces A New EZM 3 S, 556, And 104 Classic 12

It’s hard to believe that 2025 is heading into the home stretch, but here we are in September. For watch fans, that means it’s time for a flurry of new releases. One brand getting in on the action immediately is Sinn. Today, we’ll quickly highlight the new EZM 3 S, a set of colorful 556 […] Visit Sinn Introduces A New EZM 3 S, 556, And 104 Classic 12 to read the full article.