Time+Tide
New releases from Timex, Farer, Seiko and more
What better auspicious sign for this weekend than a watch inspired by the king of cocktails?The post New releases from Timex, Farer, Seiko and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Results for Tool Watch vs Dress Watch
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Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, and Gear: Moriarty Watches, Beachmaster Quartz, Borderlands 4, and Moleskine’s new collection
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Moriarty Watches Hailing from southwestern Ireland, Moriarty Watches is turning up the heat, literally. “Maybe it was a complete bout of madness diving into this crazy rabbit hole at the age of 44 and trying to get my little dream to become a reality,” said Allison in a recent New York Times article. After receiving an unfortunate diagnosis at 35, Allison began repairing watches from her home workshop, but found herself “obsessed” with Patek Phillipe Enamel dials. From designing the case, crown, and hands, hand regulating each movement in house, and creating each dial, Allison ensures each watch is “99.99 percent” perfect before it leaves her shop. Crafted by either “dry sift” or “wet pack” each dial can take up to 40 hours to complete, with “lots of room for things to go wrong”. More details on Allison’s watches and a full interview is currently available on the New York Times’ website. Expanding the Beachmaster Quartz Collection British watchmaker Elliot Brown Watches has announced its newest expansion to the Beachmaster Quartz family, adding two new dial options for the model. “From D-Day inspiration to daily use, the Beachmaster ...
Fratello
News From Schwarz Etienne: A Personal View On The 1902 Collection
Since August last year, Schwarz Etienne has had a new CEO. His name is Florian Brossard. I don’t know if this name means anything to you, but it means a lot to me. I have been following his way through the watch industry for a while. The first time I met Florian Brossard was at […] Visit News From Schwarz Etienne: A Personal View On The 1902 Collection to read the full article.
Fratello
The Hermès H08 Gets Two New Light And Urban Styles
The Hermès H08 is a remarkable success story. Emerging from the traditional and complex designs of the maison’s catalog, the cushion-shaped H08 in titanium seamlessly cut through the crowd. And the sports-watch segment is indeed crowded. Yet, the H08 takes the history of the brand’s multifaceted design approach and boils it down into a wearable […] Visit The Hermès H08 Gets Two New Light And Urban Styles to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Micromilspec aims skyward with its new Pilot Worldtimer
Building upon the Milgraph from 2024, Micromilspec launches its new Pilot series with the Pilot Worldtimer for Geneva Watch Days 2025.The post Micromilspec aims skyward with its new Pilot Worldtimer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: Three New Variants Of The Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture
The Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture is almost a decade old, but it continues to impress and surprise. When introduced in 2016, it was the most affordable Swiss-made mechanical perpetual calendar on the market. On the verge of the watch’s 10th anniversary, its friendly price is still a USP. However, the QP’s updated looks […] Visit Introducing: Three New Variants Of The Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The Sporty-Chic Hermès H08 Returns in Titanium with Signature Hermès Colours
When Hermès launched its sporty cushion-shaped H08 men’s watch four years ago, it was welcomed with open arms – and not just among Hermès devotees. Characteristic of the brand’s flair for enigmatic shapes, the H08 is a playful juxtaposition of shapes highlighted with different finishes and textures. Continuing the success story, the H08 collection expands […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Panerai Revives the Luminor 5218
There were few brands as hot as Panerai in the 2000s, and now the brand is revisiting its glory days with the Luminor Marina Militare 44 mm PAM05218. Visually, the PAM05218 a faithful remake of the Luminor ref. 5218-202/A of 1993, a “Pre-Vendome” model that became one of the most desirable watches of the 2000s. The watch retains the same design and many of the details, including the “non matching” hands, but has been upgraded with modern amenities, including a diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating for the case and a three-day movement. Initial thoughts Enthusiasts who were in the hobby in the 2000s will remember the frenzy around Panerai, which was probably the fastest growing brand during the period. Many models sold over retail, sometimes for multiples. The “vintage” models like the Luminor ref. 5218-202/A were even more valuable; it cost a healthy, mid-five figures at the time. In fact, the ref. 5218-202/A cost more than an F.P. Journe Resonance at the time. In retrospect, most of it was comical yet also seems familiar given the happenings in recent years. Times have changed, but the PAM05218 is essentially unchanged from the original – which is great for those who appreciate the functional, stark design of Panerai’s core models. I like those designs, and I like the PAM05218. If there’s one Panerai in the current catalogue I would buy, it is this one. At a distance, the PAM05218 is indistinguishable from the original, but up close it is clearly a new watc...
Fratello
Get Ready For MACH: A Place To Showcase Horological Heritage, Transmit Know-How, And Raise Awareness
The world of horology is an emotional parallel universe where those who love watches can make them their livelihood. Now, it seems that watch brands, organizations, and media have realized that this universe can only continue to exist if the knowledge and appreciation of it continue to grow and evolve. Marc André Deschoux, who started […] Visit Get Ready For MACH: A Place To Showcase Horological Heritage, Transmit Know-How, And Raise Awareness to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Rebellious Watchmaking of Ondřej Berkus
While the industry resumes normal operations following Geneva Watch Days, we’re taking a quick detour to the Italy to see what Ondřej Berkus has been up to. The Deadbeat Seconds 2.0 is the latest delivery from the self-taught watchmaker and is a good example of how far his watchmaking has come in recent years. As the name suggests, the DS 2.0 is the second watch Mr Berkus has made in this style, but like all of his creations, the two are remarkably different in execution. Initial thoughts There’s a reassuring degree of predictability to the luxury watch industry. It’s a conservative industry built on tradition, which reinforces unspoken norms about what counts as a high end watch. The result is conformity; most watchmakers march to a similar beat and stick to their respective niches. This uniformity helps customers understand the products, but as a consequence many of the products can be criticised as homogenous and impersonal. In contrast, the watchmaking of Ondřej Berkus is refreshingly human. He has no formal website, and conducts business via Instagram. He does not release collections, and no two pieces are entirely alike; each watch is created in dialogue with a collector. A self-taught watchmaker, Mr Berkus manages to pull this off thanks in part to his distinctive approach to finishing. While most contemporary independent watchmakers focus on simple movements executed to a high level, Mr Berkus flips the script, and strives to deliver watches that are unique...
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Impressive Berneron Quantième Annuel
If he had already spent years working for some of the biggest names in the watch industry, Sylvain Berneron truly made a name for himself on the independent watchmaking scene in 2023 with the launch of the first watch under his own brand. The unapologetically elegant and original Mirage – a shaped watch with an […]
Deployant
New: Louis Moinet 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire
Presenting Louis Moinet's Geveva Watch Days release. It's their second integrated bracelet watch, the Louis Moinet 1806 Chronomètre d'Observatoire.
Time+Tide
Speake-Marin’s new Openworked Tourbillon Purple Hour is a purple power play
Speake-Marin's Geneva Watch Days 2025 release is the sort of watch The Joker might wear.The post Speake-Marin’s new Openworked Tourbillon Purple Hour is a purple power play appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Tissot Ballade COSC Powermatic Collection
When it comes to delivering classic-looking, good-quality watches that are usually fully equipped and nicely finished, you can always count on Tissot. Whether it’s a sporty, integrated watch, such as the PRX Automatic, a vintage-looking looker, such as the PR516, a modern all-rounder like the Gentleman or something elegantly old-school as the Heritage 1938 COSC, […]
Teddy Baldassarre
When Were Wristwatches Invented?
Even though it seems like watches have been around forever - at least judging by the ongoing heat of the pre-owned and vintage market and its influence on modern design - they are actually a relatively modern addition to human civilization, and have only been widely worn on the wrist for a little over 100 years. The history of the watch, however, has roots that run far deeper, to the very beginnings of timekeeping by humans. Here we briefly explore the watch’s origins and its development into a modern-day accessory and tool and attempt to answer the question, "When were wristwatches invented?" (Very) Early Timekeeping Modern timekeeping devices can all be traced back to the sundials and water clocks developed by the ancient Egyptians and used by the early Babylonians, Greeks, and Chinese. The influence of these ancient methods and devices resonates deeply to this day when it comes to contemporary timekeeping. In fact, it’s even made for some questionable stories that have nonetheless been shared as a type of folk history. For example, it is said that the clockwise movement of a clock is due to early timekeepers mimicking the movement of sundials, which, obviously, move from east to west. Of course, this theory doesn’t take into account that it would only hold true in the Northern Hemisphere, as someone in the southern hemisphere would see the sundial move counterclockwise. But back to what we know to be true... These relatively primitive devices eventually gave r...
Monochrome
Introducing - The new Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5555 for the Brand’s 250th Anniversary
Celebrating 250 years as a watch brand is a remarkable achievement in itself. However, if it’s a brand founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet, the undisputed horological star of the 18th century, there are plenty of reasons to celebrate. Paying homage to this significant milestone, Breguet has released four anniversary editions in Breguet gold cases. The fifth […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Power Reserve
The field watch icon gets a subtle complication in a series of new 40mm models.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218
Panerai was first introduced to the public on September 10th, 1993. Until that time, the brand only made watches for military personnel. This is easy to forget, as Panerai quickly became a public fixture in the watch universe. This year, on the anniversary of its 1993 debut, Panerai unveils The Depths of Time at its […] Visit Hands-On With The Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Ressence TYPE 9 ARM ‘Scattering Sun’ with The Armoury
The brand's thinnest watch meets The Armoury's love of a classic twist.
Deployant
Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar three new variations
Released last week at Geneva Watch Days, Frederique Constant adds three new variations to their budget friendly Perpetual Calendar.
Worn & Wound
MB&F; Debuts the LM101 EVO
There’s a style of watch that I’ve grown particularly fond of over the last few years, and I sometimes find it hard to articulate why. The high end, exotic independent on a rubber strap calls to me like the Sirens. There’s something about the mix of high and low that appeals to me, I think, as it does with everything else I like, from Monty Python to the films of Bong Joon-ho. I also just find a good rubber strap to be one of the most comfortable ways to wear a watch, particularly (but not exclusively) in the warm weather months. And so I’ve nursed a years-long appreciation for Hublot (who basically invented this idea) and have a watch box disproportionately tilted to watches that give me the same feeling (a pair of Arcanauts, and a Bel Canto that lives on rubber year round spring to mind). It should not be surprising, then, that MB&F;’s EVO line has become a personal favorite. The EVO series of watches take Legacy Machine pieces (conceived as MB&F;’s collection inspired by classical watchmaking) and give them a sporty treatment, replacing leather straps with rubber, and adding water resistance and screw down crowns. It makes a ton of sense to create “everyday wear” versions of these watches (if you’re spending into the six figures on these pieces, I imagine you’d want to wear them more frequently, right?) and making them more casual and sporty in appearance is such a natural idea it’s almost hard to believe these haven’t existed from the beginning. N...
Teddy Baldassarre
Cheapest Patek Philippe Watches
To be honest, most people in the know would agree that “cheapest” and “Patek Philippe” don’t really even belong in the same sentence together. That said, for many serious watch collectors, even those just starting out, one’s first Patek Philippe is both a Holy Grail and a milestone purchase to be carefully, thoughtfully planned out and saved for. And most of those aficionados are still going to be entering the brand’s world at the ground floor rather than the penthouse. So what are these “entry level” Patek Philippe watches, i.e., the models actually priced with a first-time buyer in mind? First off, we should establish why Patek Philippe watches are so coveted in the first place by laying out a bit of history. Since its founding in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has been a leader in high watchmaking, pioneering many complications and design elements that are now seen widely throughout the watch industry. Polish watchmakers Antoine Norbert de Patek and Francois Czapek partnered to form the original company, Patek, Czapek, & Cie.; French horologist Jean Adrien Philippe, who invented the keyless winding and setting system still standard on watches today, joined in 1845, and the Genevan manufacture has been known as Patek Philippe ever since. Among its many horological milestones are the first annual calendar watch and the first wristwatches with perpetual calendars and split-seconds chronographs. In 1932, brothers Jean and Henri Stern acquired Patek Philipp...
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Trilobe Trente-Deux, One of the Very Good Surprises of GWD
Some watches truly need to be seen in person and worn on the wrist to be fully understood and appreciated. A flat digital rendering or a simple image doesn’t do them justice. You could easily argue that this is true for most timepieces, but in reality, there are occasions where you know the watch is […]
Worn & Wound
Hanhart and German Magazine Armbanduhren Unveil a Limited Edition Preventor HD12 in Purple
I’ve long had a contentious relationship with the color purple; between youth softball teams and grad school alma maters, it’s always difficult to find anything to wear with the color that isn’t immediately clashing. But purple is also a color associated with luxury and royalty, so I am approaching the new Silk Purple Hanhart Preventor HD12, a collaboration with German watch magazine Armbanduhren, with an open mind. Hanhart’s Preventor HD12 was originally launched in August 2024, and has fast become one of the Swiss-German brand’s most popular pieces. A field watch-style dial design paired with HD12 scratch-resistant steel, and powered by a Sellita caliber SW200-1 or Soprod SOP P024 automatic movement, the Preventor combines the vintage styling that Hanhart is known for with robust construction and durability. With easy-wearing case dimensions of 39mm in diameter and 46mm lug-to-lug, the Preventor positions itself as an everyday timekeeping watch with few complications-even lacking a date window. The HD12 steel is made scratch-resistant through a multi-stage hardening process, in which carbon is diffused into the steel and the case is covered in an additional PVD coating. Hanhart continues to tout the “hardness” factor of the Preventor by protecting the dial with a scratch-resistant convex-curved sapphire crystal. Of course, the dial is where the fun happens for this limited edition Preventor. The matte Silk Purple contrasts starkly with the white Ara...
Deployant
New: Gerald Genta Minute Repeater
Last week, during Geneva Watch Days 2025 gérald genta unveils The Minute Repeater. Here is the release inforrmation and our commentary.
SJX Watches
Fleury Manufacture Reimagines the Classic Lemania Chronograph
Components-specialist-turned-watch brand Fleury Manufacture created its own chronograph calibre inspired by the famous Lemania cal. 2310, which debuts in the FXR-4 Chronograph. Given Fleury’s origins as a supplier of parts, the calibre is built almost entirely by Fleury, and to a high standard. And the FXR-4 stands out for another reason: while independent watchmaking is rarely the value proposition it once was, the FXR-4 is priced well. The FM04 movement Initial Thoughts Self-developed chronographs are a risky proposition for high-end independents. Established brands offer fierce competition, and developing a new chronograph calibre is arguably a thankless task today since enthusiasts remain fixated on highly-decorated three handers that offer the watchmaker a greater return on a smaller investment. The FM04 movement inside scores well in terms of construction and finishing. The architecture is more refined than most other Lemania-esque chronographs, with the chronograph driving wheel integrated into the going train. And the finishing, a mix of machine and hand finishing, has enough of the latter to be considered high end; the black-polished clutch lever is especially outstanding. The design of the exterior doesn’t score quite as well, which is not surprising given Fleury’s background as a parts supplier. The date isn’t to my preference – and the date pusher looks strangely large – it will be a meaningful value-add to others. Vacheron Constantin’s Lemania-ba...
Monochrome
Introducing - More Refined, More Powerful… Meet the New Citizen Tsuyosa 60 Automatic
Since its introduction in 2022, the Tsuyosa collection by Citizen has become one of the brand’s bestselling models… And rightfully so. Combining a 1980s design inspiration with integrated sports watch vibes, an automatic movement and a very reasonable price tag, it’s a great entry-level proposition that has attracted a lot of newcomers to the brand […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer
Upcycling, the process of transforming materials that would otherwise be discarded into new products of higher value through thoughtful design and creativity, is a current theme, and that’s a good thing. You’ll get my point by looking at the new Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529. The elegant 40.2mm watch features a strap made of […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Hanhart Preventor HD12 Silk Purple
The everyday watch, the one-watch collection… A timepiece that blends ruggedness with refinement, capable of moving seamlessly from the office desk to the mountain trail. This is what Hanhart set out to achieve with the Preventor HD12, introduced in 2024 as the brand’s vision of a modern, go-anywhere, do-anything timepiece. Compact, scratch-resistant and deliberately simple, […]
Time+Tide
Living la dolce vita acquatica with the HTD Aquatìc MkII
The Florence-based independent watch brand returns with a slim and stylish take on a GADA dive watch.The post Living la dolce vita acquatica with the HTD Aquatìc MkII appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.