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Longines Introduces the Heritage Military 1938 SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Nov 14, 2019

Longines Introduces the Heritage Military 1938

Following the recent Heritage Classic with a “sector” dial, Longines continues to churn out compellingly-priced, well-conceived remakes with the Heritage Military 1938. Limited to 1938 pieces, the watch is modelled on the ref. 4092, an oversized military watch produced by Longines just before the Second World War. Such watches were often made for the firm’s agents in Eastern Europe, most prominently Zipper in Poland. The original watch from 1938 (left) and the modern reissue (right) Like the original, the Heritage Military 1938 has a 43mm stainless-steel case topped by a domed sapphire crystal, which is pretty much the only obviously modern element of the watch.  The rest is pretty much faithful to the original, right down to the typeface of the logo and numerals, even on the sub-dial. Crucially – traditionalists will surely approve – the remake is hand-wound like the original, in contrast to most other Longines remakes that are self-winding. The case has a polished top surface on the lugs and bezel, with a contrasting brushed case band. And the matte black dial features a railway minutes track, along with sans-serif Arabic numerals and baton-shaped hands filled with cream-coloured Super-Luminova to mimic the aged appearance of the radium “lume” on the original. And because the watch is powered by the suitably large ETA Unitas 6498-1 that fills the case, the small seconds is correctly positioned, sitting a distance from the central axis and close to the bot...

Zenith Defy Classic Blue Ceramic Review WatchAdvice
Zenith Defy Classic Blue Ceramic Nov 14, 2019

Zenith Defy Classic Blue Ceramic Review

The future of watchmaking for Zenith can be narrowed down to one word: Defy. The Defy collection started with the release of the Defy El Primero 21 back in 2017, which was the quite amazing hundredth-of-a-second chronograph. This was followed by the first-generation Defy Lab (known now as Defy Inventor), which Zenith states is the world’s most accurate watch with its new ground-breaking monocrystalline silicon oscillator. Luckily enough, we had a chance to review the Zenith Defy Inventor as well, which you can check out here. Zenith has added a mini collection of three ceramic models to the Defy Classic range. The models in the Defy Classic Collection has a three-hand plus date feature and comes in three colour variations: White ceramic, Black ceramic and Blue ceramic. The piece we have on our hands today is the elegant Defy Classic Blue Ceramic. Having a colour outside of the typical white and black in a ceramic, which is the norm, definitely brings something different to the table. Although the colour blue may have its limitations with what it can be worn with, compared to all black and white ceramic watches. Despite this limitation, the blue ceramic certainly is an eye-catcher when on the wrist. Like the other two models in the Zenith Defy Classic Ceramic range, the blue ceramic comes with its own matching blue rubber strap.  Sometimes having too much of the same colour throughout the watch can be too “in your face” as well. The blue used by Zenith for this cera...

Hype dodger: 3 steel Professional Rolex watches you can actually buy Time+Tide
Rolex watches you can actually Nov 14, 2019

Hype dodger: 3 steel Professional Rolex watches you can actually buy

$16,450 – that’s the Australian recommended retail price of the Oystersteel Rolex Daytona ref. 116500LN. But, as I’m sure 99 per cent of people reading this are already patently aware, if you actually want to own one of these fabled watches, you can’t merely walk into an AD and pick one up. No, if you … ContinuedThe post Hype dodger: 3 steel Professional Rolex watches you can actually buy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Longines Heritage Military 1938 Time+Tide
Longines Heritage Military 1938 Longines Nov 13, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Longines Heritage Military 1938

Longines is on an absolute roll in 2019, and it seems like only yesterday that we were treated to one of their hottest watches of the year – the sector dial Longines Heritage Classic. Not wanting to rest on its blue-handed laurels, Longines has just dropped this bombshell of a vintage reissue, and they’re calling … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Heritage Military 1938 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Diver X Cape Horn and Nemo Point Editions SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces Nov 13, 2019

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Diver X Cape Horn and Nemo Point Editions

Having just signed on as a sponsor of the Vendée Globe 2020-2021, Ulysse Nardin has unveiled a pair of dive watches for the solo, nonstop, round-the-world yacht race. Each named after points along the race route, the Diver X Cape Horn and Diver X Nemo Point are based on Ulysse Nardin’s well-priced dive watch – both are below US$10,000 – powered by the in-house UN-118 movement. Diver X Cape Horn Vendée Globe Often described as the toughest sailing competition in the world, Vendée Globe is a nonstop, single-handed race – meaning a solo sailor in the boat – requiring competitors to circumnavigate the globe. Sailing monohull yachts, the contestants start and end at Les Sables d’Olonne, a beach town in the Vendée department on France’s Atlantic coast that is usually a quiet place, until the race begins. According to The New York Times, some 1.5 million spectators descended on the town in 2016 for the last race. The start of the Vendée Globe 2016-2016. Photo – Vincent Curutchet/DPPI and Vendée Globe Yachts in the harbour. Photo – Vincent Curutchet/DPPI and Vendée Globe The sailors – there were 29 in the Vendée Globe 2016-2017 – have to travel 40,075km in a north-south direction, without any assistance along the way. In the eight contests since the Vendée Globe began in 1989, three sailors have died. The next race starts on November 8, 2020, and will take several months to complete. In the last Vendée Globe, the winner completed the course in j...

What We Liked And What We Didn’t Like At The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, Plus How Well Our Panel’s Forecasts Did And Video Of The Highlights Quill & Pad
Nov 12, 2019

What We Liked And What We Didn’t Like At The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, Plus How Well Our Panel’s Forecasts Did And Video Of The Highlights

Year after year the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève continues to prove its relevance in the world of watches, and this year is no different. One of the conclusions reached during our discussions of the pre-selected watches is that whichever watch won in the respective categories, none of them would be “unworthy” of the prize. So what took home the big prizes at the 2019 event?

Auction Report: Albert Piguet Double-Balance Resonance Watch Sells for CHF250,000 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Nov 12, 2019

Auction Report: Albert Piguet Double-Balance Resonance Watch Sells for CHF250,000

One of the most interesting lots in the second instalment of Masterworks of Time at Sotheby’s that just concluded was a seemingly unassuming pocket watch with an estimate of just 7,000-10,000 Swiss francs. But the pocket watch contains a movement with a single gear train driving double balance wheels linked by a differential, constructed to keep time according to the principles of resonance. This is one of the very movements that inspired Philippe Dufour to create the Duality. And its appearance at auction comes at an opportune time, with F.P. Journe going to launch an entirely new Resonance movement in 2020. The Philippe Dufour Duality Mr Piguet of Lemania The movement was made by Albert G. Piguet (1914-2000), a noted watchmaker who finished the movement in 1933, just before graduating from the École d’Horlogerie in Le Sentier, then the premiere watchmaking school in the Vallee de Joux. He joined movement maker Lemania after graduation, and eventually rose to technical director. Piguet stayed in that role from 1948 to 1980, during which he helped develop numerous calibres, including the important CH27 chronograph movement that later became the cal. 321 found in the early Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, and also the cal. 2310 used by the likes of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Piguet’s 1933 pocket watch movement is just one of six produced between 1932 and 1934 by students at the watchmaking school, working under the tutelage of headmaster Marcel Builleumi...

VIDEO: Automotive attitude with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Nov 11, 2019

VIDEO: Automotive attitude with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16

This year, the brand known for their focus on avant-garde techniques has updated one of their most iconic sporting chronographs, to produce the best-looking TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 in recent years. With an aesthetic of clean refinement, the less-is-more approach has come up trumps in a watch that prioritises robust functionality over notions of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Automotive attitude with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Report: What Went Down at Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet chief executive Francois-Henri Bennahmias Nov 11, 2019

Auction Report: What Went Down at Only Watch 2019

Only Watch 2019 is the biggest watch auction ever – and it was the most exciting sale in a notably quiet Geneva auction season – with 50 lots selling for 38.59m Swiss francs. The last Only Watch auction in 2017 raised a mere 9.29m francs in comparison. And of course 31m francs of that came from just one watch, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in steel, which went to a determined buyer from Asia bidding via telephone with Wei-Ting Jud of Christie’s London. Presided over by Christie’s jewellery department head Rahul Kadakia, the best watch auctioneer who is not a watch specialist, the saleroom in Geneva’s Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues was jam-packed, so full even Audemars Piguet chief executive Francois-Henri Bennahmias had to stand. And there was even a famous face in attendance, or at least in the same building – former Thai prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra, who is a a known watch collector, was spotted in the lobby of the hotel. Luc Pettavino, who founded only watch after his late son was stricken by Duchenne muscular dystrophy, the very disease that Only Watch raises funds to research a cure. Photo – Alex Teuscher Photography Though the Patek Philippe accounted for most of the sale proceeds – which all go to a medical charity – the other 49 lots in the auction still sold for an average of 155,000 Swiss francs, which is well above the average for a watch auction. The Antiquorum watch auction that took place a day later, for instance, averaged only...

Seiko’s Prospex LX Line Diver emerges from GPHG as a winner Time+Tide
De Bethune Nov 11, 2019

Seiko’s Prospex LX Line Diver emerges from GPHG as a winner

Seiko’s fit for purpose range of Prospex LX Line Diver’s watches has beaten some tough competition from the likes of Longines, Ressence and De Bethune to take home the award for best Diver’s watch at GPHG 2019. This is an important win for the Japanese manufacturer for two reasons: firstly, the winning Seiko is a … ContinuedThe post Seiko’s Prospex LX Line Diver emerges from GPHG as a winner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Steeling the show … Jason Statham’s love affair with Rolex Time+Tide
Rolex What Nov 10, 2019

Steeling the show … Jason Statham’s love affair with Rolex

What is it about leading actors and their affinity for Rolex’s range of stainless steel sports watches? It almost seems like it’s a rite of passage – become a famous thespian and then immediately adorn one’s wrist with a steel 6263. Whether it’s Steve McQueen, Paul Newman (obviously), Daniel Craig … the list just goes … ContinuedThe post Steeling the show … Jason Statham’s love affair with Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 02 Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco 02 TAG Heuer’s Nov 10, 2019

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 02

TAG Heuer’s fabled Monaco wristwatch, a timepiece immortalised in the annals of motorsport as a result of Steve McQueen sporting one in the 1971 film Le Mans, is for the first time in its history being produced with an in-house movement. That’s right, whether you were aware of it or not, the TAG Heuer Monaco … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 02 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seven Minutes In Heaven: The Monta Atlas Two Broke Watch Snobs
Monta Nov 10, 2019

Seven Minutes In Heaven: The Monta Atlas

It’s been a long time coming. Finally, after sitting on this for a bit, I’m ready to share some thoughts about the Monta Atlas GMT. Recently, work and life have managed to brutally pull me under-but when a great watch has to be written about, I do my best to share my review when I can. Monta is the product of a new era of microbrands pushing into uncharted territory with a controversial pivot toward four-digit price points.

GPHG “Innovation” Prize given to Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Nov 10, 2019

GPHG “Innovation” Prize given to Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar

It’s been a very busy week of watches in Geneva, with Only Watch 2019 setting new records, and the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) awarding prizes to some of the best watches of the year (which included some upsets). Amidst the clamour and drama of the GPHG, where the pitting of brands head to … ContinuedThe post GPHG “Innovation” Prize given to Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rediscovering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Editor’s note Nov 10, 2019

Rediscovering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph

Editor’s note: If you’re in the market for a steel sports watch with a chronograph complication, you really are spoilt for choice. Rolex’s Daytona, Omega’s Speedmaster, Tudor’s Black Bay Chronograph … the list goes on. However, if you’re looking for a timepiece that meets all of the aforementioned criteria, while still possessing a real and genuine … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Top 3 most expensive watches sold at Only Watch 2019, also featuring Audemars Piguet and F.P. Journe Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Nov 9, 2019

Top 3 most expensive watches sold at Only Watch 2019, also featuring Audemars Piguet and F.P. Journe

Patek Philippe’s entry into Only Watch 2019, the one-of-a-kind stainless steel Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A, has just smashed, in fact obliterated, the record for the most expensive watch ever sold at auction. But it wasn’t just the Patek that stretched into the seven-figure stratosphere at the charitable auction last night, as two other … ContinuedThe post Top 3 most expensive watches sold at Only Watch 2019, also featuring Audemars Piguet and F.P. Journe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 3 mistakes I made buying a vintage watch, my cautionary tale Time+Tide
Nov 9, 2019

The 3 mistakes I made buying a vintage watch, my cautionary tale

How did I accidentally become a vintage watch guy? Partly, I blame the fact that I’ve got the spindly wrists of a teenage girl. That meant I naturally gravitated towards smaller dials. But I also put it down to the tawdry state of my finances. When I first started to get into watches - before the retro … ContinuedThe post The 3 mistakes I made buying a vintage watch, my cautionary tale appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCH DISASTERS #1 – Ken’s prodigal GMT-Master II Time+Tide
Nov 9, 2019

WATCH DISASTERS #1 – Ken’s prodigal GMT-Master II

Watch Disasters is a new series on Time+Tide that describes, in chilling detail, incidences when owning an expensive watch goes wrong. This is not going to be comfortable reading, so prepare for the pain. Admittedly, this is a bit of a soft start. The ‘prodigal’ in the title gives it away. If you have a … ContinuedThe post WATCH DISASTERS #1 – Ken’s prodigal GMT-Master II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Taking another look at the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Blue” Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Nov 8, 2019

Taking another look at the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Blue”

Editor’s note: Omega’s Seamaster collection is vast and varied, and the Swiss watchmaking powerhouse isn’t shy when it comes to creating new and innovative variants of its iconic diving watch. A classic example of this explorative ethos is this - the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Blue”. The gorgeous and amply proportioned 45.5mm case is hewn … ContinuedThe post Taking another look at the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Blue” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Joe Rogan talks watches Time+Tide
Nov 8, 2019

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Joe Rogan talks watches

Unless you’ve been in hibernation for the last five years, or you’ve had a complete moratorium on any type of connection to the Internet, chances are you’ve heard about Joe Rogan and his podcast. In fact, the comedian and former host of Fear Factor has such a large reach on the interwebs that his podcast … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Joe Rogan talks watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Maritime mastery with the Breguet Marine 5517 Time+Tide
Breguet Marine 5517 More than Nov 7, 2019

VIDEO: Maritime mastery with the Breguet Marine 5517

More than 200 years ago, Abraham-Louis Breguet was appointed as an official chronometer maker of the French Navy, and the tradition lives on today in the Breguet Marine 5517. The 5517 is a robust sports watch, machined in a lightweight titanium that almost perfectly matches the deep-grey dial tone, and offers a host of details … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Maritime mastery with the Breguet Marine 5517 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet has nailed it for Only Watch 2019 Time+Tide
Breguet has nailed it Nov 7, 2019

Breguet has nailed it for Only Watch 2019

Only Watch 2019 is now less than 24 hours away from kicking off, and Breguet has really knocked it out of the park with their entry in this year’s charitable auction. The Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2019 is, I think we can all agree, a handsome timepiece, and that’s largely because the pièce unique … ContinuedThe post Breguet has nailed it for Only Watch 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Phillips ‘Double Signed’ Geneva Auction Part II SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Gobbi” chronograph Nov 7, 2019

Highlights: Phillips ‘Double Signed’ Geneva Auction Part II

Here’s part II of highlights at Phillips’ Double Signed auction – you’ll find the first part here – including a lovely Audemars Piguet “Gobbi” chronograph with a green gold dial, as well as a gorgeous Patek Philippe Ref. 1463 “pink on pink” that’s more affordable than usual, for a reason. Lot 35 – Patek Philippe ref. 2499 in pink gold “Trucchi” The most valuable lot in the sale, with an estimate over 1.2m francs, is the Patek Philippe ref. 2499 third series in pink gold. It’s one of only six pink gold third series watches known; in fact, the total number of ref. 2499s in pink gold across all four series totals just 23. And this is the only one with the “Trucchi” signature on the dial, having been sold by the retailer in Naples that’s still in operation today. According to Phillips, it was sold by Trucchi to an Italian-American doctor in 1972, who then sold it to the consignor who sold the watch at auction in 1999 at Antiquorum in Geneva. It sold for almost 700,000 francs then, making it one of the most expensive watches in the world at the time. The watch is in exemplary condition, albeit with one quirk: the crystal is sapphire instead of PlexiGlas as is standard for the third series. Found only on fourth series ref. 2499s, the sapphire crystal and accompanying bezel was presumable installed by Patek Philippe in the 1980s according to Phillips, since the watch already had a sapphire crystal when it was sold in 1999. Lot 50 – Patek Phili...

Breaking News: Seiko Exits Baselworld 2020 SJX Watches
Citizen has been relegated Nov 7, 2019

Breaking News: Seiko Exits Baselworld 2020

Switzerland’s biggest watch and jewellery fair will see one of its biggest exhibitors, Seiko, depart next year reports Yasuhito Shibuya of Chronos Japan. A Baselworld exhibitor since 1986, the Japanese watchmaker joins the stream of brands that have been departing the event since industry giant Swatch Group’s shock exit last year. According to Mr Shibuya, Seiko’s official reason for leaving is “because the opening time of Baselworld in 2020 is later than usual”, happening in May instead of the traditional March. Mr Shibuya also adds: “The fair happens a month later, coinciding with the Golden Week in Japan – a period with four consecutive national holidays within seven days. This is a particularly disappointing time for Japanese watchmakers.” “From the location of the booth to the floor plan of the fair [with Seiko’s booth on the second level], I do not think that Seiko has received equal treatment [as compared to Swiss brands]” noted Mr Shibuya. Despite its importance, both commercially and culturally, Seiko, along with fellow Japanese brands Casio and Citizen, has been relegated to the upper floor of the main exhibition hall since the venue’s lavish redesign in 2013. The loss of Seiko is no doubt a major blow to Baselworld, which has historically been a cash cow for exhibition organiser MCH Group, which also owns the Art Basel franchise. Instead of Baselworld, Seiko will launch its new products earlier in the year. However, according to a Seiko...

Rediscovering the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection Editor’s note Nov 7, 2019

Rediscovering the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection

Editor’s note: With so many different opulent steel sports watches currently occupying the marketplace, it’s sometimes easy to forget that one member of the holy trinity of Swiss watchmaking, Vacheron Constantin, has been making their interpretation of a luxury sports watch for more than 20 years now - the Vacheron Constantin Overseas. It’s an impressive … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Taking flight with the Breguet Type XX, XXI and XXII Time+Tide
Breguet Type XX XXI Nov 6, 2019

Taking flight with the Breguet Type XX, XXI and XXII

Initially created for the French Ministry of Defence for the French Air Force, the Breguet Type XX, XXI and XXII are timekeeping devices steeped in the history of aviation-specific wristwatches. First released in 1954, the Type XX was the first aviation watch ever created by the storied Swiss watchmaker, who specifically produced the timepiece at … ContinuedThe post Taking flight with the Breguet Type XX, XXI and XXII appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Aventurine Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Nov 6, 2019

INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Aventurine

It’s been a pretty busy year for boutique Swiss watchmaker H. Moser & Cie, from the introduction of several new models at this year’s SIHH, right through to the arresting Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar, which was unveiled just a few short months ago. The eccentric Swiss marque isn’t done with the 2019 new releases, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Aventurine appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Longines Avigation Type A-7 “The Hour Glass” in Bronze SJX Watches
Montblanc 1858 chronograph which develops Nov 6, 2019

Hands-On: Longines Avigation Type A-7 “The Hour Glass” in Bronze

Following the launch of the Sinn 356 Pilot Chronograph limited edition to mark the 40th anniversary of The Hour Glass, the retailer has just announced yet another pilot’s chronograph, but this time, one that is more unusual and striking, the Longines Avigation Type A-7 1935 in bronze. Characterised by an askew dial and movement, the Type A-7 “The Hour Glass” is based on the second-generation, 2016 reissue of the chronograph Longines supplied to the US Army Air Corps in the 1930s that was known as the “Type A-7”. Striking colourways Though the distinctive case style is retained, the commemorative edition is made even more unusual by an attractive material and colour combination. The case is bronze and paired with either a blue or champagne dial finished with a metallic, sun ray-brushed finish. While bronze might seem a bit too fashionable, especially in this price segment, it’s surprisingly uncommon for Longines. In fact, the new Type A-7 is only the second Longines watch to have a bronze case; the first was the Heritage Military Kuwait limited edition. The case is made of phosphor bronze (CuSn8), an alloy that is 92% copper and 8% tin. In contrast to the aluminium-bronze alloys, used in watches like the Tudor Black Bay Bronze or Montblanc 1858 chronograph, which develops a brownish patina, phosphor bronze has a more reddish tone and develops a blue-green, sunken-treasure oxidisation over time. While the vintage Type A-7 was a 51mm diameter cockpit instrumen...