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Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys

30,366 articles · 158 videos found · page 471 of 1018

Mechanical vs. Automatic Watch Movements Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 12, 2025

Mechanical vs. Automatic Watch Movements Explained

Among the many questions a novice watch enthusiast is faced with, “Mechanical vs. Automatic Movement?” is one of the most basic, yet one whose answer is a bit more complex than a simple A-or-B explanation. In fact, “mechanical or automatic” isn’t even really framing the choice correctly. In the article below, we attempt to clarify the subject and answer the most pressing questions about these tiny engines inside your watch. What is a Mechanical Movement? A mechanical movement, like the Nomos DUW caliber below, uses a coiled metal spring, called a mainspring, that releases energy as it uncoils through a series of gears to drive a weighted, oscillating wheel called a balance wheel. The balance wheel’s oscillations are linked to an escapement, which periodically releases the gear train to move the hands forward to record the passing of hours, minutes, and seconds. In short, a mechanical movement in a watch is any type of movement that uses no batteries or electronic components to function - which makes them different from more modern inventions, like quartz, Spring Drive, and solar movements. Technical developments over the centuries are what led to the two types of mechanical movements we’re discussing here. Originally, the movement’s mainspring needed to be wound periodically by hand - first by a key, then by a small knob called a crown that was attached via a stem to the movement. Later, a type of movement was developed that could be wound “automatica...

Are You Into Watches Or Watchmaking? Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Chairman Jul 12, 2025

Are You Into Watches Or Watchmaking?

On June 26th, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) celebrated its 20th anniversary in Geneva. The non-profit organization started the celebrations with a press conference at the lakeside Ritz-Carlton Hotel in Geneva. To honor the FHH’s founding members, Audemars Piguet CEO Ilaria Resta, Girard-Perregaux Chairman and CEO Patrick Pruniaux, and Cartier Chairman of Culture […] Visit Are You Into Watches Or Watchmaking? to read the full article.

The Petrolhead Corner – The Koenigsegg Sadair’s Spear Packs the Mightiest of Swedish Punches Monochrome
Jul 12, 2025

The Petrolhead Corner – The Koenigsegg Sadair’s Spear Packs the Mightiest of Swedish Punches

If there’s one thing to be said about Koenigsegg and the wild machines coming out of the gates of their facilities in Ängelholm, Sweden, it’s that they’re at the peak of engineering. The Swedish megacar manufacturer, founded by Christian von Koenigsegg in 1994, is known for pushing back the boundaries of performance and innovation, breaking […]

[VIDEO] Hands-On with the New Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Jul 11, 2025

[VIDEO] Hands-On with the New Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue”

No one was really expecting a new Black Bay 54 when Tudor dropped one by surprise late last month. It suddenly became the most talked about watch of the summer: a compact dive watch with a pastel blue dial and a mirror polished bezel. Tudor knew what they were doing when the released this watch in June, because it’s about as representative of the “summer watch” ideal as you can get.  The original Black Bay 54 remains one of our favorite vintage inspired dive watches, and we’ve been curious how Tudor would choose to evolve the line almost since the original debuted just a little over two years ago. In this video, Zach Weiss (an owner of the original Black Bay 54) compares the new to the old, and discusses what makes this new “Blue Lagoon” Black Bay stand out beyond the summery vibes.  Are you a fan of the new Black Bay 54 Blue Lagoon? Let us know in the comments what you think, and where you’d like the Black Bay 54 to go from here. Tudor Images from this post: The post [VIDEO] Hands-On with the New Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Hands-On With The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition Fratello
Gerald Charles Jul 11, 2025

Hands-On With The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition

During Watches and Wonders 2025, we had the opportunity to meet with Gerald Charles and view the latest releases. The other news is the 25th anniversary of the brand’s founding by Gérald Genta in 2000. Therefore, some of the models we saw in Geneva were made to celebrate a quarter-century and contain a special logo […] Visit Hands-On With The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Final “Surfer” - The Frosty Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic Fratello
Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Jul 11, 2025

Hands-On With The Final “Surfer” - The Frosty Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic

We told you to sit tight and catch that wave when it comes around. Well, surf’s up, people, because today’s the day the frosty Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic comes out in a limited edition of 100 watches. It’s the final “Surfer” of the trilogy and your last chance to catch […] Visit Hands-On With The Final “Surfer” - The Frosty Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic to read the full article.

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Review Teddy Baldassarre
Hamilton Jul 10, 2025

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Review

Is there a contemporary field watch as beloved and versatile as the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical? At this point the illustrious military history of the Khaki Field watch has been thoroughly explored (and if you’re not familiar with it, our resident historian Mark Bernardo has written an encyclopedic guide here). In short, Hamilton produced over a million watches for the United States military during World War II with its field watch in specific garnering praise for its universally consistent quality. This predecessor to the Khaki Field was a 34mm-wide field watch done in a chrome-plated metal case with radium lume dials and a manual-wind Caliber 987 movement. The modern Hamilton Watch Company was bought by the Swatch Group in 1974 with much of the production already having moved to Switzerland in 1969. The brand’s reassertion as a bonafide, authentic maker of military tool watches with historical provenance proliferated as an entire collection under the “Khaki” umbrella. While it was still producing watches for actual military units in the 1980s and ‘90s, Hamilton had done well by marketing to civilians once again in the wake of the Vietnam War. These early post-war civilian Hamilton Khaki watches were co-branded with retailers like Brookstone, Orvis, and L.L. Bean. This was also the time during which the “Khaki” logo began popping up on their dials. In 2018, Hamilton released the Khaki Field Mechanical which has gone on to be one of the most popular and b...

Hands-On: the Farer Lissom “Lindley” Worn & Wound
Farer Lissom “Lindley” British independent Jul 10, 2025

Hands-On: the Farer Lissom “Lindley”

British independent brand Farer is heating up the summer scene with a new line of dress watches: the Lissom collection. The result is fun, classy, and beautifully true to the brand’s bold design language. I had the purple dialed “Lindley” in for review, but there are five total watches in the Lissom collection, offering a great mix of bright color combinations and more traditional neutrals. Every watch in the Lissom line has unique characteristics, but they have one thing in common – each reference shares a name with influential figures in the fields of botany and the natural sciences. I learned that my review sample was named in honor of John Lindley (1799 – 1865), an English horticulturist whose research, botanical illustrations, and championing of a natural system of plant classification were influential in his field.  The emphasis a first impression should have on watch purchase history should be studied. In my own collection, I have an array of watches with varying degrees of “love at first sight” influence – it doesn’t ultimately sway me one way or the other when deciding to purchase a watch. However, very few watches I’ve handled have elicited the audible gasp that accompanied my unboxing of the Lissom Lindley. In the name of science, much like its namesake, I’ve attempted to deconstruct why I was so immediately taken with this watch.  At 38mm in diameter with a thickness of 7.95mm, the Lindley is svelte, sharp, and downright dreamy on the wr...

First Look – The New David Candaux DC7 Blue Hawk, Sculpting Time Beyond Conventions Monochrome
Jul 10, 2025

First Look – The New David Candaux DC7 Blue Hawk, Sculpting Time Beyond Conventions

Contemporary independent watchmaking thrives on unconventional ideas, but only a few creators dare to shape them with such sculptural poetry and technical finesse as David Candaux. His latest creation, the DC7 Blue Hawk, embodies his philosophy of a masterful fusion of mechanical virtuosity, architectural depth, and visual intrigue. Building on the vision first introduced with […]

Vacheron Constantin 222 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Vacheron Constantin Jul 10, 2025

Vacheron Constantin 222 Review

The Vacheron Constantin 222 reissue first came out at Watches & Wonders 2022 and it was, quite literally and without hyperbole, the single most talked about watch at the show that year. The revival was a solid gold, integrated-bracelet sports watch that went from a somewhat obscure cult classic to a breakout, mainstream status watch seen on Brad Pitt, Michael B. Jordan, and Chris Paul. Once the initial excitement subsided and everyone got their wrist shots to post on Instagram, the obvious next question posed by industry insiders was, “when do we see a steel model revival?” Well, that question got answered late last year with the release of the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Ref. 4200H/222A-B934, a watch that benefits from contemporary watchmaking techniques while looking like it could be straight out of the ‘70s. Done in a stainless steel case and bracelet with a subtle matte blue dial, this new 222 revival became one of the most lust-worthy releases of 2025 shorty after its arrival, less than two weeks into January. For a little history and background, the 222 was released in 1977 and is something of a precursor to the Overseas. I’ve heard a few people incorrectly attribute the 222 to Gérald Genta but it was actually the work of fellow prolific designer Jörg Hysek. The 222 came on the heels of the Royal Oak (1971) and Nautilus (1976) and the 1977 launch coincided with the brand’s 222th anniversary, hence the name. Like the Royal Oak and Nautilus, the  2...

Introducing the Bell & Ross BR-05 Skeleton Phantom Ceramic Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR-05 Skeleton Phantom Ceramic Jul 10, 2025

Introducing the Bell & Ross BR-05 Skeleton Phantom Ceramic

Like a moth to the flame, I am drawn to Bell & Ross novelties. I can’t help myself. This is a brand that many have levied legitimate criticisms at. They are too expensive, too big, there are too many releases, and on and on. And I’ll be honest, the core watches, the normal ones (the watches the brand probably needs to sell a ton of to remain in business) do very little for me. But if you put a skull on the dial, or inject luminescent material into the case, or add several timing scales that are almost impossible to read with the naked eye, well, I find those watches hard to resist. My beloved BR-03 Multimeter looms large in my mind here. There are times, even recently, where I’ve thought to myself “I really should sell this – I just don’t wear it much.” But then I take it out of the box, put it on, and am charmed by it once again. How could I part with something so strange? The latest release from Bell & Ross is not as wild as the Multimeter, or a watch with a skull for a dial, but it’s a few clicks out from the norm, and adventurous in its own way. The BR-05 Skeleton Phantom Ceramic sees the brand playing in a genre that just a few years ago was reserved for only the highest end watches from the highest end brands: integrated bracelet sports watches in ceramic with skeleton dials.  The BR-05, at this point, feels like a mature collection. It’s kind of hard to believe it’s been around for more than five years at this point. But it was, in fact, one of ...

Introducing – The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 42mm Limited Edition for France Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 42mm Limited Jul 10, 2025

Introducing – The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 42mm Limited Edition for France

Jack Heuer’s Carrera chronograph and its affiliation with the racing track is borderline legendary, but there is an earlier, lesser-known chapter of the late 1940s involving the development of a purpose-built watch for Abercrombie & Fitch, the upscale American sporting goods company. Still a student, Jack Heuer enlisted his physics teacher to collaborate in the […]

Patek Philippe & Tiffany: The History Behind The Hype Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Jul 9, 2025

Patek Philippe & Tiffany: The History Behind The Hype

As longtime, mutually beneficial relationships in the world of high luxury go, the one between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. is perhaps the most quintessential. The esteemed Swiss watchmaker behind classic timepieces like the Calatrava and Nautilus and the elite retailer/jeweler renowned for its distinctive blue gift boxes have been partners for more than 170 years, and Patek Philippe watches with a Tiffany signature are among the rarest and most coveted items on a serious watch collector’s wishlist. In this feature, I explore the long and prestigious history behind Patek Philippe’s Tiffany watches and spotlight how the two world-famous brands continue to collaborate today.  Patek Philippe: The Origin Story The company that would be known as Patek Philippe had its foundation laid in 1839, when a Polish watchmaker named Antoni Norbert de Patek and his business partner, Czech-born François Czapek, partnered to form Patek, Czapek, & Cie, in Geneva. The company produced pocket watches for a relatively brief period before disagreements between the two founders precipitated the dissolving of the partnership, and the firm, by 1845. That same year, Patek began a new partnership with a French watchmaker named Adrien Philippe, whose historical claim to fame was the invention of the keyless winding system for watches. Together, they established a new company, Patek & Cie., to continue making watches, which officially became Patek, Philippe, & Cie. in 1851. That year was pivo...

Defying Expectations: Hands-On with the Zenith Defy Revival Shadow Diver Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Revival Shadow Diver Jul 9, 2025

Defying Expectations: Hands-On with the Zenith Defy Revival Shadow Diver

When the Zenith Defy Revival diver was released last year, I somehow missed it. I didn’t see it when it passed through the office, nor at any press events, and honestly, I just didn’t take notice of articles. I guess I was busy. While unfortunate in one sense, perhaps it was for the best, as my first in-person experience with it was with its follow-up model, the Zenith Defy Revival Shadow, and I was immediately taken. Small, dark, weird, vintage-y, and yet also with a 90s vibe, it sank its titanium teeth into me fast. I’m not surprised, to be honest, as the “shadow” watches by Zenith have been their coolest models in the last several years, at least to yours truly. An aesthetic outlier within their collection, these occasional brooding models utilize not just the best-metal-for-a-sports-watchTM, titanium, but also a unique micro-blasting, which gives them a charcoal tone that is more nuanced than black coatings. Light and dark in one package, I’m surprised I don’t already have a Shadow in my watch box. The Shadow Treatment But, even among the Shadow models, the Defy Revival stands out. It’s a remarkably compact, tough tool watch with unique vintage styling that comes to life with shocks of neon yellow. The only shadow model to use a color, Zenith wasn’t shy, and it paid off. A love it or leave it hue, it was a risk. This is the kind of unexpected design choice that will make me take notice of a brand. To use an expression I truly hate, “I see you,” Ze...

Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Review Teddy Baldassarre
Doxa Jul 9, 2025

Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Review

The Doxa name is certainly among the superstars of the classic dive-watch universe, and the Doxa we think of first is almost invariably the orange-dialed Sub 300 Professional, as well as the black-dialed Sharkhunter version, as worn by legendary oceanographer Jacques Cousteau. But Doxa’s diving history predates the 1967 introduction of the 300, and today we’re looking at a watch that harks back to those earlier models, specifically those with twisted-lug cases that preceded the tonneau-shaped Sub 300 we associate most with the brand. This is the Doxa Sub 200, specifically the Sharkhunter variant, and it’s a fantastic-looking callback to the early ‘60s.  Best of all, it represents the entry point into the modern Doxa lineup at just a shade above $1,000 retail, and if you’re not a fan of black dials, the brand known for its colorful divers has seven other colorways to choose from. But today, we’re going to take a closer look at the 200 that most closely resembles its vintage inspiration, the black-dialed Sharkhunter model. In its most basic black form, the dial is a slice of midcentury perfection. This is the watch Mad Men's Don Draper would wear on a weekend getaway to Palm Springs. Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Case:  You'd be forgiven if you thought the case of the Sub 200 was influenced by a vintage Omega Seamaster 300, but it turns out that the look of the case is a direct callback to Doxa's history. The lyre-lugged design is a direct descendant of the vintage...

Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Wren Diver 38 Seafoam Fratello
Jul 9, 2025

Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Wren Diver 38 Seafoam

Last December, I had a chance to go hands-on with the Diver One Snow from Wren Watches. This brand is the brainchild of Wrist Enthusiast founder Craig Karger, and the first efforts went over very well with watch fans. Labeled as a passion project, the Diver One and its success might lead to something much […] Visit Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Wren Diver 38 Seafoam to read the full article.

Parmigiani Turns to Cermet for the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph SJX Watches
Jul 9, 2025

Parmigiani Turns to Cermet for the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph

Sportier and a little more affordable than its more elegant cousin, Parmigiani’s Tonda PF Sport was originally available only in steel. The Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet swaps out that conventional alloy for a case of cermet, a composite of ceramic and metal. Notably, the entire case – bezel, case middle, pushers, and crown – is in cermet. Initial thoughts Parmigiani has iterated its popular sports into many variations, perhaps too many, but the Tonda PF Sport in cermet is one of the most interesting so far. While the material is not new to watches, it is usually employed for one or two components, typically the bezel. The new Tonda PF Sport Chronograph is almost all cermet, which is gives it an appealing a single-tone appearance that goes well with the clean styling. The new chronograph is available in Milano Blue (left), and London Grey Material aside, it is essentially identical to earlier versions of the Tonda Sport PF Chronograph. Though it is little changed in fundamental terms, that’s not necessarily a bad thing as the PF070 movement inside ranks amongst one of the most sophisticated chronograph calibres, especially in sports watches. The only downside of the new material is the price hike. The cermet model is basically a 50% premium over the steel version, which the brand will not doubt justify in terms of machining and polishing complexity, but it is still difficult to rationalise. The PF070 Ceramic and metal Cermet is a composite of ceramic and...

The Konstantin Chaykin Joker Meets Behrens’ Ultra Light SJX Watches
Behrens Ultra Light Building Jul 9, 2025

The Konstantin Chaykin Joker Meets Behrens’ Ultra Light

Building on the Russian watchmaker’s signature Joker timepiece, the Behrens x Konstantin Chaykin Ace of Hearts blends the European court jester with its Chinese counterpart – contained with Behren’s ultra-light, trapezoid wristwatch that was first launched in 2023 as the Ultra-Light 11G. Initial Thoughts One of a new breed of inventive Chinese watchmakers, Behrens has always excelled at novelty watches, thanks to a combination of creativity and competitive pricing. This sets it apart from both its domestic and international competition. European manufacturers in the same price range simply can’t develop base movements or even custom modules for small production runs, at least economically, while only a few other Chinese brands have built enough credibility outside the country to sell five- to six-figure watches internationally. The Ace of Hearts exemplifies what Behrens does well – while also being a collaboration with an established European independent watchmaker. The brand’s earlier collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin was well received, but didn’t stand out from other Wristmon models in terms of styling, so it’s good to see a new direction with the Ace of Hearts. In fact, the Ace of Hearts stands out even in comparison to the ever-growing Wristmon family. I find the sapphire case models most interesting, as the transparent case suits the airy construction of the movement and importantly, they are priced reasonably compared to Swiss brands. Movement The...

Hands-On With The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Enjoy Life Special Edition Fratello
Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Jul 9, 2025

Hands-On With The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Enjoy Life Special Edition

Last month, I had the opportunity to attend Soccer Aid, a charitable football match held at Old Trafford in Manchester. Norqain was the official timing partner of the event and invited a group of people to see the game and hear about the brand’s official UK launch. During the evening, we sat down with CEO […] Visit Hands-On With The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Enjoy Life Special Edition to read the full article.

Hands-on – The SPB519, The Updated Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT That Does It All Monochrome
Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver Jul 9, 2025

Hands-on – The SPB519, The Updated Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT That Does It All

Seiko‘s dive watch legacy is long and rich, yet surprisingly, a mechanical diver with a GMT complication only joined the catalogue in 2023. The SPB381/383and SPB385 laid the groundwork with their “caller GMT x Diver” design, and earlier this year, the SPB509 brought meaningful improvements, including 300m water resistance and a micro-adjustable clasp, wrapped in […]