Hodinkee
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Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys
31,783 articles · 171 videos found · page 474 of 1066
Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
The Incredible New Polymesh Bracelet from Ming
The coolest thing I saw at Geneva Watch Days that I wasn’t allowed to talk about publicly is finally here. This week, Ming introduced a new bracelet concept they’re calling the Polymesh, and with its release it immediately became one of the most interesting products in a catalog full of boundary pushing designs. If you zoom out, what we have here is fairly easy to understand: it’s a 3D printed titanium bracelet. We’re pretty accustomed to 3D printing in watchmaking at this point, with recent releases from Holthinrichs and Apiar serving as recognizable touchpoints for what the technology is currently capable of. As with any other type of manufacturing, there are degrees to the level of quality and complexity depending on how the printing is done and what your goals are, more generally. Of course, in the case of Holtinrichs and Apiar, it’s the cases that are being created using a 3D printing process, and any watch you’d cite as an example has tell-tale signatures that it was made with additive manufacturing, whether that’s a rough finish or angles and shapes that would be otherwise impossible to achieve. A bracelet, though, is a whole other ball of wax. It’s worth pointing out that Holthinrichs has made a 3D printed titanium bracelet in the past, so the idea that Ming has here with the Polymesh isn’t unprecedented. The execution, though, is pretty original. The Polymesh is made up of 1,693 individual components, all held together without the aid of pins o...
Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier Tank a Guichets Review: A Quirky Art Deco Classic Returns
Usually, when we think of Cartier, our thoughts turn to classical luxury and elegance rather than military-style minimalism. However, the world-famous maison and “jeweler of kings” has long dabbled in both worlds, at least when it comes to watchmaking. And there is no better example of a timepiece that embodies that ethos than the rather unexpected headliner of Cartier’s new releases at the 2025 Watches & Wonders salon: the Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets. The Tank à Guichets, of course, is an evolution of the original Cartier Tank watch, which is itself a historical example of a modern luxury item with clearly military inspiration (it’s right there in the name, actually). Throughout its prestigious history since being unveiled in 1917 by its inventor, Louis Cartier, the Tank has evolved in ways that are both subtle and revolutionary and has appeared in forms of which many of us might not even be aware. Some of these more exotic and unusual Tank pieces have found their way back into the main collection in recent years as part of the Cartier Privé series, and it is from this series that the new Guichets, in its three distinctive iterations, does indeed hail. The Original Cartier Tank But let’s start off by establishing where this watch’s design legacy began. The classic, original Cartier Tank, which didn’t actually go into serial production until 1919, derived its name and its rectangular, curvilinear case shape from the World War I-era Renault FT-17 t...
Worn & Wound
The Haim Annum, a New Annual Calendar, is the Brand’s Most Ambitious Watch Yet
The Chicago based brand Haim celebrates their five year anniversary this year with what is certainly their most ambitious watch to date, the Annum. When brand founder Zakir Miah showed me an early prototype of the watch months ago at a Windup Watch Fair, I was surprised and impressed that he would even think to attempt making a watch with such a niche complication. It resets the brand in some ways, and will likely force people to consider Haim in a different way. As surprising as an annual calendar from Haim is, if you pull back far enough, there were signs that Miah wanted to move the brand into a slightly higher end and more refined direction going back a few years. The Legacy Automatic, for example, featured a custom decorated movement by an American company, Maryland Watch Works, and the whole watch was a significant step up in terms of finishing and build quality compared to prior efforts. But the real shift came with the Viajero Worldtimer released last year. This watch featured a rather clever modification of a common Seiko-made GMT caliber, replacing the hand for the second time zone with a cities ring akin to what you’d find on a classic world timer. The old-school “globe” dial was meant to recall the most famous worldtimers from the Jet Age, and while the Viajero doesn’t have nearly the watchmaking complexity of those timepieces, it was able to mimic the style of those watches to an impressive degree when you consider the price tag of $799. The Annum ar...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Serica Parade Reference 1174 with Linen Dials
Young French brand Serica has built a loyal following by incorporating vintage cues into clean, modern tool watches and addressing the details that many brands often ignore. After field-ready divers and GMTs put the Paris-based maker on the map, the Serica Parade Ref. 1174 shifted the conversation to the dress watch category – without abandoning […]
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe’s Gondolo Serata Zebra Debuts New Dial Technique
Patek Philippe surprises with an off-season launch, the Gondolo Serata Zebra Ref. 4962/200R-010. Based on the curvaceous model launched in 2006, the Zebra features a sapphire crystal dial framed by garnets on the bezel and lugs. The dial motif replicates the cloisonné enamel dial of the Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-023 from the Rare Handcrafts collection of 2022, but here the technique and material are decidedly modern. Despite the radically different look, this is an evolution of the Retrograde Perpetual Calendar ref. 6159G that has a smoked sapphire dial. Here the dial is also clear sapphire, but engraved, varnished, and then metallised to create the striking zebra motif. Initial thoughts The Gondolo Serata has been in Patek Philippe’s catalogue for almost 20 years but it never really gained prominence. Though the case shape is elegant, the dials on the earlier versions were quite plain. The Zebra is the opposite – vivid and striking – and it instantly stands out amongst Patek Philippe’s ladies offerings. The fact that the dial motif is based on the Rare Handcrafts Ellipse is a nice touch, though watch enthusiasts may be disappointed the movement is quartz. Patek Philippe presumably understands its clients and those clients probably want the convenience of a quartz movement. The sapphire dial technique, however, is interesting enough that it is likely to make its way into other models, which will be a good thing. Savannah sapphire The Gondolo Serata is a longsta...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Dakar Edition of the Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph
Founded by master watchmaker Gerd R. Lang (1943-2023) in 1983, Chronoswiss rowed against the tide of quartz to become a key player in the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking. Renowned for exceptional craftsmanship and a penchant for regulator displays, Lang’s brand released the Opus chronograph in 1995, the world’s first serially produced skeletonised automatic chronograph, revealing […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Seiko Teams Up With Bamford For The Very Vibrant SBSA315 Limited Edition
Vintage inspiration and a whole lot of lume underline Seiko's newest collaboration.
Fratello
Introducing: The Studio Underd0g × Fears 02Series Mim0sa
There are few self-inflicted experiences in life worse than a hangover. What often starts as a fun night out turns into a rough next morning. The “hair of the dog” is a well-known “cure” with drinks such as the Bloody Mary and Mimosa serving as popular tonics. It’s the latter beverage that inspires today’s Studio […] Visit Introducing: The Studio Underd0g × Fears 02Series Mim0sa to read the full article.
Fratello
The Rolex GMT-Master That Flew Around the World - Cliff Tait’s Extraordinary Journey
When pilot Cliff Tait took off in 1969 to fly solo around the world in a tiny aircraft, he carried with him a Rolex GMT-Master 1675 - a watch that became as vital as any flight instrument. This is the story of the man, the machine, and the timepiece that circled the globe together. On […] Visit The Rolex GMT-Master That Flew Around the World - Cliff Tait’s Extraordinary Journey to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Look out for these ultra-rare Seikos at Phillips’ Decade One auction
Borna highlights three incredibly rare and historically significant Seikos set to go under the hammer with Phillips in November 2025.The post Look out for these ultra-rare Seikos at Phillips’ Decade One auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: The Titanium Episode
On Episode 15 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon shares insights picked up at Citizen’s Super Titanium event in Paris, where he had the opportunity to speak with the brand’s materials engineer. Still on the theme of titanium, SJX shares his views on the new Cartier Santos in the lightweight metal, and the different strategies of these brands which are playing to their respective strengths. Another big story from this week is the launch of the new Petermann Bédat Reference 1825. Though it’s not made of titanium, it’s a strong third act (and a hint of what’s next) for the brand. Is there still white space in the market for highly finished time-only watches? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Norqain Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm Orange
Over the past few months, I’ve had the opportunity to go hands-on with several new Norqain watches. It’s been a positive experience and somewhat surprising. Generally, I’m not a fan of open-worked dials, but on the wrist, the brand’s pieces shine. Comfortable straps and wrist-conforming case designs help too. Today, I’m taking my first spin […] Visit Hands-On With The Norqain Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm Orange to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Review: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Twin-Time
TAG Heuer pushes the boundaries of modern sport-luxury with the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Twin-Time. A bold fusion of technical design, dual-time functionality, and everyday wearability, it’s the Carrera reimagined for a new generation. Lightweight, futuristic, and full of attitude, this is modern TAG Heuer at its best! What We Love The futuristic take on the Carrera has never looked better: the skeletonised dial is visually stunning and full of depth. The GMT functionality adds genuine, real-world practicality to the timepiece. Wrist presence is undeniable. It’s a watch you can’t take your eyes off, offering excellent value for money. What We Don’t The case thickness remains on the larger side; even with the added function, it could be refined further. It would’ve been great to see the winding rotor colour-matched to the dial, perhaps in the same teal green. The hour and minute hands can occasionally get lost within the skeletonised dial during certain lighting conditions. Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 TAG Heuer launched the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport in late 2024 as a bold new evolution of the Carrera line, sharing much of the collection’s DNA while having a “futuristic” aesthetic look. The Chronograph Extreme Sport collection brings together the brand’s racing heritage with now a more refined, sharper, and aggressive look, all the while using new cutting-edge materia...
Monochrome
Buying Guide - Symmetrical Beauties, Six of the Finest Two-Register Chronographs
Chronographs come in all sorts of shapes, sizes and colours, so it’s hard to pinpoint the very best. What helps is the possibility to sub-categorise them, thanks to the fact that there are so many different ones. One class of chronographs that always seems to gather plenty of attention is the two-register, or bicompax chronograph. […]
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Ceratanium Vs. Omega Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon “Black/Black”
Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. We’ve had a couple of battles between dressy watches in the previous weeks, so we thought it would be good to return to our more regular program of proper sports watches. This week, Omega launched its updated Dark Side of the Moon collection, which we couldn’t […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Ceratanium Vs. Omega Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon “Black/Black” to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - Titanium or Tremblage…the New Versions of the Moritz Grossmann Tourbillon
Moritz Grossmann continues to explain its vision of watchmaking from Glashütte with two new interpretations of its most complex watch, the Tourbillon Titanium and the Tourbillon Tremblage. These two new versions are mechanically identical to the original model, introduced initially in 2013 when the Grossmann calibre 103.0 established the brand’s first in-house tourbillon, notable for […]
Deployant
New: IWC Limited-Edition Portugieser Automatic 42 Year of the Horse
The Limited-Edition Portugieser Automatic 42 Year of the Horse is a commemorative timepiece released by IWC Schaffhausen to mark the upcoming Lunar New Year. Limited to 500 pieces, it features a 42.4mm stainless steel case, a burgundy dial with gold accents, and the IWC-manufactured 52011 caliber offering a seven-day power reserve. The rotor is shaped like a galloping horse, visible through the sapphire caseback. Pricing for this model is listed at approximately €14,800, though regional availability and final retail prices may vary.
Hodinkee
Auctions: A Live Preview Of This Weekend's Fall 2025 Monaco Legend Auction
We're back in Monaco for the start of the fall auction season, and there are so many special watches to see.
Fratello
Bianchet Goes For Gold With The UltraFino Skeleton At WatchTime New York
Every once in a while, a small change makes a big difference. For Bianchet, that change comes in the form of 18K rose gold. The new UltraFino Skeleton Rose Gold Edition, launched at WatchTime New York, takes one of the brand’s most technically impressive watches and gives it an entirely new personality. I had a […] Visit Bianchet Goes For Gold With The UltraFino Skeleton At WatchTime New York to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner - The Lotus Carlton, The Ultimate Nineties Super-Saloon
I’m a child from the 1980s, so I grew up in the world of Nintendos and Playstations, which I played for hours and hours. I wasn’t a total hermit or anything as I did other stuff as well, but I did spend my fair share with a controller in hand, playing games like Tetris, Super […]
Fratello
Going Hands-On With The Incredibly Versatile Micromilspec Worldtimer
In a world with a seemingly ever-increasing number of luxury watch brands, Micromilspec focuses on developing the best tool watches possible. Professionals actively use these watches in the field, so reliability and sturdiness are critical factors in the success of Micromilspec’s timepieces. The Norwegian brand has an impressive list of professional clients, from specialist army […] Visit Going Hands-On With The Incredibly Versatile Micromilspec Worldtimer to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Depancel’s latest limited edition, the Série-R01 Black Tangerine, continues a winning formula
Designed and developed with community feedback, over 3,000 watch enthusiasts participated in the creation of Depancel's latest chrono.The post Depancel’s latest limited edition, the Série-R01 Black Tangerine, continues a winning formula appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
What to Know Before Buying an Oris
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
Teddy Baldassarre
The BEST Moon Phase Watches From Attainable To Luxury (16 Watches Ment
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Ultimate Flex Watch For $50 - Casio A168WG
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
Teddy Baldassarre
Building The Perfect Watch Collection For $10,000 - Over 20 Watches Me
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
Teddy Baldassarre
Two Unique Entry-Level Mechanical Chronographs You Should Know - Nivad
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Timex Atelier Introduces the GMT24 M1a Automatic
The Giorgio Galli-led upmarket Timex spinoff introduces its second watch and first complication.
Teddy Baldassarre
The BEST Watches With A 38mm Case In Every Category (26 Watches)
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.