Hodinkee
Ben Clymer Presents: Ep. 8 – The Vintage Patek Episode With John Reardon
The ins and outs of vintage Patek Philippe including dream references, peak values, and sleeper hits.
Results for The Swatch Group
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Experts and Collectors Weigh in on the Return of Universal Genève
Early yesterday morning, news broke in the watch world that was both surprising, and felt inevitable. Universal Genève, the highly regarded and historic Swiss brand that has been effectively dormant for years, will be revived and relaunched by the same ownership team currently steering the ship at Breitling. While the news of Universal finally getting a high profile relaunch isn’t exactly shocking (reviving heritage brands shuttered during the Quartz Crisis has been a favorite pastime in the watch industry over the last decade), we weren’t expecting the Breitling connection. The news (and reaction to it) speaks both to the great affection the community feels for the Universal Genève brand, and to the strength and financial turnaround of Breitling under Georges Kern’s tenure. Universal Genève has a long and rich history, and has grown significantly in esteem in recent years. They were part of an explosion of interest in vintage watches that began more than ten years ago, but unlike other brands that benefited from increased attention on historic vintage pieces (Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet among them), Universal Genève doesn’t exist as a modern watchmaker in a meaningful way. For that reason, there’s always been a mystique to the brand that can’t really be replicated. We can, and do, compare vintage versions of Submariners, Daytonas, and Royal Oaks to their modern equivalents, and can thus relate to these watches through a modern context or l...
Monochrome
Introducing – The All-Black Bremont MBIII Stealth Limited Edition
Following the predominantly all-black aesthetic of the MBIII Rapha special edition released by Bremont last year, the British watchmakers bring the latest addition to this special lineup – the MBIII Stealth. Let’s explore this Bremont-exclusive timepiece, but first, a super-concise recap of the Martin-Baker collection story. Ejecting from a failed aircraft earns you a “coveted” […]
Monochrome
Interview – Learning About The Past, Present and Future of Hamilton with CEO Vivian Stauffer
With a history spanning more than 130 years, Hamilton has an extensive archive to choose from when it comes to designing and developing new watches. But there’s far more to the brand than just rekindling past models, as the brand also looks to the future. Vivian Stauffer, CEO of the brand since July 1st 2020, […]
SJX Watches
The Affordable Seiko 5 “Field” Gains a GMT Function
Seiko has expanded its range of (very) reasonably priced sports watches with the Seiko 5 Sports Field Sports Style GMT. Available in stainless steel (SSK023) or black-coated steel (SSK025), it retains the military-inspired aesthetics of its time-only counterparts, while incorporating an additional hour hand showing a second time zone. Initial thoughts The new models evoke a sense of familiarity with the “field” style dial and 24-hour markers, a longstanding design that’s been part of the Seiko 5 line-up for decades. But now the dial adopts a modern, utilitarian style, departing from the vintage-inspired aesthetic found in the time-only “field” models such as the SRPG35 and SRPJ85. And purists will appreciate the absence day-of-the-week display, with the dial having just the date. The black-on-black SSK025 achieves an almost ideal look for this type of watch. The near-monochromatic aesthetic creates an extremely satisfying contrast with the orange accents that brings to mind a fighter jet cockpit. The SSK025 Beyond the cosmetic changes, the new models are typical of Seiko’s entry-level GMT models. They are more accurately described as dual time zone watches with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than true GMT watches that feature an adjustable local-time hour hand, as seen in pricier watches from Grand Seiko or Tudor. Although setting the time for a second time zone involves a few additional steps, this represents an acceptable compromise consid...
Time+Tide
Five of the best watches from TAG Heuer in 2023
With strong releases left, right, and centre, TAG Heuer has played their cards right this year.The post Five of the best watches from TAG Heuer in 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Wildly Reflective Surfaces of the Zenith Defy Extreme Mirror
Camouflage dials have been a big hit in the past couple of years, and we’ve covered several combat-ready models. Zenith pushes the camouflage concept to the extreme, giving its Defy Extreme a radical makeover with a reflective mirrored surface. Undoubtedly the boldest take on its high-performance 1/100th-of-a-second chronograph, the latest manifestation blends into its surroundings […]
Quill & Pad
Bartolo Mascarello: Not just a Great Italian Winery, but One of the World’s Great Wineries
Mascarello is an Italian wine producer family that adheres to the old ways. Apparently, there is no email nor website (I certainly could not find one), and until 1990 they did not even have a phone. However, there are many who believe that Maria Teresa (granddaughter of founder Giulio Mascarello) has taken the wines to unprecedented heights. After a recent visit to the winery in Italy, Ken Gargett is one of them.
SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Turns to “Ice and Fire” for the Knights of the Round Table
Now the signature watch of Roger Dubuis’ modern-day offerings, the Knights of the Round Table “Titanium Damascus” is inspired by the Arthurian fable. The latest edition is centred on the theme of “ice and fire” – the reference to Game of Thrones is unmissable – and is surprisingly artisanal despite the ultra-contemporary aesthetic. Decorated with blue Murano glass and Limoges porcelain, the dial has 12 knights around a frozen lake – a miniature diorama depicting the knights confronting imminent peril emerging from the waters’ depths – and a case made of a pattern-welded titanium alloy. Initial thoughts The “ice and fire” edition is no doubt catered for a niche audience – and at 45 mm few can wear it easily – but still has a unique appeal. Moreover, it departs from the modern, skeletonised style that’s characteristic of the brand’s automotive-inspired timepieces. It merges artisanal decoration and modern watchmaking – it is big and bold but boasts unexpectedly intricate detailing. The watch encapsulates the Roger Dubuis “hyper horology” ethos in both design and construction, while the dial and movement (which is hallmarked with the Poincon de Geneve) stay faithful to traditional watchmaking and decoration. This Knights of the Round Table is priced at approximately US$374,000, putting it in the same price range as other editions in the series. It is also priced similarly to comparably extravagant watches from the likes of Jacob & Co., bu...
Worn & Wound
Rado Brings Back the Anatom, a Lost Classic from the 1980s
Over the weekend, Rado dipped into their archives to bring back a lost classic from the 1980s. If you can recall the early 80s (or just have a penchant for watches of this era) you might remember the Anatom. This square cased watch with a dramatically curved case and sapphire crystal has been ripe for repurposing for the last few years – it certainly has some integrated bracelet sports watch notes to it. What Rado has done with this release is take the premise of the watch from the 80s and modernize it using Rado’s contemporary design language. The result is an Anatom that doesn’t look much like the original, but clearly shares some DNA and is unmistakably a Rado. The most significant difference between the original Anatom and the new version is the more prominent use of ceramic in the present day model. Rado has always been keen to experiment with materials, especially ceramic, but they’ve really leaned into this as part of their brand identity quite heavily in the last few years. Most of the key models in their lineup are either full ceramic, or ceramic in all the important places. That’s where the Anatom fits in. The new version has a PVD coated steel midcase, but the ceramic bezel leaves a large visual impression, and we also get a ceramic crown and a ceramic overlay on the integrated rubber strap’s clasp. The case measures 32.5mm x 46.3mm and is 11.3mm tall. As with the vintage versions of this watch, the case is curved, which in turn means the dial and ...
Hodinkee
Staff Picks: The Best Sport Watches Of 2023
From the old-school to the sharply modern, these are our favorite sport watches of the year.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Lang & Heyne Moritz, a Complete Calendar with a Unique Declination Indication
In the vast realm of heavenly wonders, a timepiece exists tailored for every cosmic inquiry. Whether you yearn to unravel the Earth’s speed at the equator, comprehend its orbital dance around the Sun, or learn the angles at which sunrays caress your corner of the world throughout the year, rest assured. There’s a watch designed […]
Worn & Wound
Missed Review: The IWC Mark XVII
I’ve had an admiration for IWC’s watches for a long time, and have owned multiple Pilot’s Chronographs and an Aquatimer over the years, but until recently I’d never spent a significant amount of time with a watch in their storied Mark series. These simple pilot’s watches are core to IWC’s history and the perception of the brand, and historically represent an entry point into the catalog for collectors. Die hard IWC fans have long debated the “best” of the Mark watches. Head over to any internet forum or comments section where watches are discussed amongst enthusiasts, and you’re certain to find people debating the finer points of date window placement, case thickness, and diameter across the breadth of Mark watches over the years. I acquired a Mark XVII from a local collector friend recently. This is a watch I’ve experienced on a nearly monthly basis at watch meetups over the last few years, and I’ve always said to this friend: Let me know if you ever decide to sell it. We all have a watch like this in our orbit, right? There might be an actual commandment against coveting, but in this hobby it’s fairly normal to stake a claim for something you want that a friend has in their possession. Well, we reap what we sow. Said friend decided to let his Mark go, and after some (internal) deliberation, a deal was struck, and I quite unexpectedly owned one of the objectively strangest watches IWC has made in the last few decades. The thing is, the Mark wat...
Worn & Wound
Farer’s Latest is Inspired by the Pullman Company, the Historic UK Train Car Manufacturer
When it comes to setting the standard for British elegance, does anyone do it better than Farer? The London-based watchmaker, whose timepieces are produced in Switzerland, recently launched their latest in the Cushion Case collection: The Durham Pullman. Evoking a bygone era, this latest from Farer takes inspiration from the Pullman Company, manufacturer of train cars throughout the United Kingdom. With this, the mixture of greens and silver balances a bit of sophistication with everyday wear. The dial is the real selling point of this watch, so we’ll talk about that first. The dial boasts a luxurious dark green hue with a metallic brushed finish, lending it a dynamic tone under varying lights. Atop this base, a raised ring with a radial brushed finish creates the distinctive sector dial effect of the Cushion Case collection. Resting on this ring are highly polished silver markers- a blend of batons and Roman numerals-accompanied by a refined dauphine handset. Complementing these silver elements is the seconds sub-dial, featuring a sunken silver channel with an engine-turned finish. These meticulous details converge to establish the seasonal release of the Durham Pullman as an exceptionally refined timepiece suitable for both formal occasions and weekend outings alike. As part of the Cushion Collection, the Durham Pullman is bound to have presence when worn due to its shape and easy-to-style size that complements a variety of wearers. Sitting at 38.5 mm with a 43.8mm...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon High Jewellery
With the festive season just around the corner, Vacheron Constantin lights up its Overseas Tourbillon with a blaze of baguette-set diamonds. First introduced to the brand’s successful luxury sports Overseas collection in 2019, the Tourbillon model boasts a slim profile thanks to the incorporation of Vacheron Constantin’s ultra-thin tourbillon calibre 2160. The latest Overseas Tourbillon […]
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin applies subtle bling to the Overseas Tourbillon High Jewellery
Thought that diamonds on a watch cannot be tasteful? Think again.The post Vacheron Constantin applies subtle bling to the Overseas Tourbillon High Jewellery appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Insight: The Breguet Cal. 728 of the Type XX Chronograph
With roots in 1950s French military-issue chronographs, the modern-day Type XX Chronographe was originally released in the mid-1990s and is now’s trademark pilot’s chronograph – and also the brand’s entry-level complication. Originally utilising Lemania-based movement in prior generations, the Type XX was entirely revamped, inside and out, with the unveiling of the Type XX Chronograph 2057 and 2067 earlier this year. While the aesthetics have been revised, the most notable upgrade in the new-generation Type XX is a brand-new movement, the cal. 728. The cal. 728 is a high-frequency movement running at 36,000 beats per hour that employs a novel patent-pending flying mechanism as well as an inventive reset system. The release of a completely new, in-house chronograph movement is uncommon, especially one with novel innovations that went under the radar. In fact, the cal. 728 is arguably one of the most sophisticated and advanced modern-day chronograph movements, putting it alongside the Audemars Piguet cal. 4401/4409 and Rolex cal. 4131. As a result, the cal. 728 deserves a closer look. Controlled return The cal. 728 is actually two related movements: the cal. 728 is an automatic, flyback-chronograph movement with three registers for elapsed seconds, minutes, and hours that is inside the three-counter Type XX ref. 2067, while the cal. 7281 is a two-counter version of the calibre found in the military-inspired Type XX ref. 2057. The most novel component of the cal. 728 ...
Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces a Conceptual Take on the Defy Extreme with a New Reference Sporting a Highly Reflective Mirror Finish
An idea that we return to frequently around here is the ability of Zenith, moreso than just about any other Swiss brand with a lengthy, complex history, to straddle the line between heritage and pushing forward with daring, contemporary designs. Think of almost any other brand with roots dating to the late 19th or early 20th century that is still making watches, and chances are they focus largely on paying respect to the past, or they have moved on and iterated in some way. Zenith, on parallel tracks, does both, and I think one of the reasons they’re able to do that so successfully is that pushing the envelope aesthetically is part of their heritage. The Defy line is the most obvious example of this, and with this new Defy Extreme reference, Zenith continues to define what it means to be a Defy in the first place with a bold new take on their high spec chronograph that is as much sculpture as it is horology. The Defy Extreme Mirror, as the of the watch would imply, is all mirrored surfaces, creating a unique and highly reflective effect that is actually almost the antithesis of what we’ve previously seen from the Extreme line. This, after all, is Zenith’s most hardcore sports watch, and is frequently seen in rugged, blacked out cases made from tech forward materials. The Defy Extreme Mirror, however, is stainless steel, and has been given a mirror polish on every surface that is meant to evoke the appearance of chrome. It’s objectively decorative, but the highly ...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Graceful Rose Gold Moritz Grossmann Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction
Moritz Grossmann (a manufacturer named after the founder and director of the German School of Watchmaking) creates some of the most beautifully crafted wristwatches available today, and one of its finest offerings is the Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction, introduced earlier this year. Like the brand’s Tremblage, Hamatic or Benu Heritage models, this watch is rich […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Breguet Reine de Naples 8925 Valentine’s Day Edition 2024
As the leading watchmaker of his day, Abraham-Louis Breguet hobnobbed with France’s royalty and aristocracy. Apart from his commissions for gentlemen, his celebrity client list also included Queen Marie-Antoinette, Empress Josephine, and Caroline Murat, Napoleon Bonaparte’s youngest sister, aka the Queen of Naples. A keen collector of Breguet’s revolutionary timekeepers, in 1810, Caroline Murat placed […]
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Dragon”
In keeping with its tradition of special editions for the Chinese Lunar New Year, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Dragon” to celebrate the Year of the Wood Dragon that begins in early 2024. A limited edition that’s made-to-order, the Reverso “Dragon” maintains the timeless, double-sided design, but with a black grand feu enamel dial and a hand-engraved case back portraying a Chinese dragon. Initial thoughts Commemorative Lunar New Year editions are not new for Jaeger-LeCoultre, as the brand produced an equivalent edition last year. However, the formal works: combining enamel and engraving results in a more elaborate design compared to the typical Reverso while still retaining the elegance and character of the model. The watch showcases a captivating motif on its back. On closer inspection, intricate details come to the fore, with the dragon depicted in low relief against a fired enamel background. Although almost monochromatic, it is undeniably vivid. Just like last year’s Tiger edition, the Reverso “Dragon” is made-to-order and is priced at US$107,000 before taxes. It comes in slightly higher than the previous Reverso models featuring similar artwork. It is expensive for what it is, despite the evident artistry of the decoration, particularly since Jaeger-LeCoultre is historically a brand associated with more affordable watches. A lavish depiction of a Chinese dragon The Reverso “Dragon” depicts a dragon in the clouds against a ...
Worn & Wound
Shopping the Windup 2023 Holiday Gift Guide
It’s over a week into December, and no doubt your holiday shopping is in full swing unless you’re a last minute shopper (we’ll have a blog post for you soon enough too, so stay tuned). For the proactive among us, or even the lost soul who has somehow found your way here trying to shop for the watch fanatic in your life, welcome. The kind folks at the Windup Watch Shop have you covered with our 2023 Holiday Gift Guide. Consider this a guide for a guide, if you will. It’s over a week into December, and no doubt your holiday shopping is in full swing unless you’re a last minute shopper (we’ll have a blog post for you soon enough too, so stay tuned). For the proactive among us, or even the lost soul who has somehow found your way here trying to shop for the watch fanatic in your life, welcome. The kind folks at the Windup Watch Shop have you covered with our 2023 Holiday Gift Guide. Consider this a guide for a guide, if you will. The post Shopping the Windup 2023 Holiday Gift Guide appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Melbourne-based Second Hour present the handsome Gin Clear MkII
Pairing compact dimensions with excellent features for the price point, the Gin Clear is a capable diver.The post Melbourne-based Second Hour present the handsome Gin Clear MkII appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Buying Guide – Some Of The Best Collaboration Watches We’ve Recently Come Across
“Put two creative people in a room, and watch the magic happen.” While it might not exactly work like that, a joint project between two designers, artists or brands can lead to wonderful new things. It happens in art, it happens in fashion, and as you’ve guessed it, it happens in watchmaking. Over the years, […]
Quill & Pad
Hello, Newman: A Collector Looks Askance at the Cult of the Paul Newman Rolex Daytona – Reprise
For watch lovers, the name “Paul Newman” is associated first and foremost with Rolex, and in particular with a subset of that brand’s Daytona watches with specific dial characteristics, including a recessed outer seconds track and subdials that feature block-shaped hashmarks and Art Deco-style Arabic numerals. But what does this nickname mean for these references on the vintage market? And what does GaryG think about it?
Time+Tide
The Bovet Récital 26 Chapter 2 Golden Dragon “paints the dragon and dots the eyes”
The Bovet Bovet Récital 26 Chapter 2 Golden Dragon is truly a demonstration of their capabilities in the haute-luxury sector, encompassing both artisanal and engineering excellence.The post The Bovet Récital 26 Chapter 2 Golden Dragon “paints the dragon and dots the eyes” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: A “Mr. and Mrs. Smith” Reboot, Rose Gold EDC from The James Brand, and the Tesla Cybertruck is Here
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com The Tesla Cybertruck is Here, and the Internet Responds In a big piece of automotive news that quickly became cultural news and then followed even more quickly into Classic Meme territory, Tesla’s long awaited Cybertruck is finally here. The first vehicles were delivered at the end of November, and automotive journalists were also able to finally get behind the wheel. The reactions were…mixed. In a lengthy video that dives into the nitty gritty details of the truck’s pros and cons, YouTuber Marques Brownlee found plenty to like, but also some nagging issues carried over from previous Teslas. The whole video is worth a watch not only for Brownlee’s informed takes, but he also just gives us a great look at the truck that we haven’t seen before. And then there’s Engadget’s Nathan Ingraham. Again, his whole piece is worth reading, but in a review filled with potential potential pull quotes, we’ll highlight this bit from the opening: “It’s been four years since Tesla first announced the Cybertruck, a hideously ugly electric pickup truck that didn’t seem to actually im...
Time+Tide
The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon is for collectors who march to the beat of their own drum
With the sleek time-only Tambour being all the rage, Zach takes a look at a very different proposition.The post The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon is for collectors who march to the beat of their own drum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner – A Trio of Wickedly Cool Cars to Get you Through the Weekend
As we’re gearing up towards the holiday season, it’s important to sit back and unwind now and then. And even though we have plenty of watch news to keep you informed on the latest and greatest watches, our weekly Petrolhead Corner series provides a different type of entertainment. We cover everything that piques our interest […]
Time+Tide
Bausele’s Sydney Diver is a three-way collaboration between Australia, Switzerland and the United States
This US-assembled, Swiss-made, Australian watch is Bausele's most interesting creation yet.The post Bausele’s Sydney Diver is a three-way collaboration between Australia, Switzerland and the United States appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.