Hodinkee
Recommended Reading: Audemars Piguet 20th Century Complicated Wristwatches
Not your usual brand book – a defining piece of scholarship from Audemars Piguet.
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Hodinkee
Time+Tide
The end of the road - Luke’s exit watch
You’ll be familiar with the misadventures of Spinal Tap over their 1982 album, Smell The Glove. The original cover artwork is problematic. Featuring the image of “a greased, naked woman on all fours wearing a dog collar”, the cover is knocked back by retailers who flatly refuse to display such a sexist image. Without the … ContinuedThe post The end of the road – Luke’s exit watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Chillout TGIF: The Deployant Photography Image Processing Workflow
In response to requests arising from our TGIF photography articles, we present our image processing workflow for the photographs on this site.
Quill & Pad
In Conversation With Adrian Hallmark, Chairman And CEO Of Bentley: Sustainability, Hybrids, And Full Electrics
Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle sat down with Bentley chairman and CEO Adrian Hallmark to discuss how the last 100 years have set the company up for the future and how sustainability and electrification have been established as the new frontier.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Breguet Marine 5517 in Titanium
Breguet today is highly regarded for its watches that classically designed but often powered by innovative, high-tech movements, like the Classique Chronométrie 7727 with magnetic balance pivots, or the recent, elaborately finished skeleton tourbillon 5395. The brand is not, however, known for its luxury-sports watches (its line of Type XX aviator’s chronographs are entry-level and not quite sports watches). But last year Breguet unveiled the latest – and best – version of its luxury-sports watch, the Marine 5517. An under-appreciated contender in the category, the new Marine more conservative in style than its competition, but built to an admirably high standard. The Marine 5517 in titanium with a matching bracelet Horloger de la Marine Unlike its competitors, Breguet was relatively late to the luxury-sports watch segment (though not as late as A. Lange & Söhne, which launched the Odysseus last year); the original Marine only made its debut in 1990. The model name was inspired by Breguet’s appointment in 1815 as Horloger de la Marine – clockmaker to the French navy, an appointment it held for over 150 years. Designed by Jorg Hysek, perhaps the most famous watch designers of the 1990s, the first-generation Marine was distinguished by its fluted, domed crown, but otherwise looked pretty much like any other Breguet. That was replaced in 2005 by the second generation, a major redesign that gave it a more distinctive style. The practical robustness of the Marine...
Quill & Pad
Pommery Cuvée Louise Champagne And The Invention of Brut
Madame Pommery might have had no idea what she was setting in motion so long ago, but Ken Gargett feels that she would undoubtedly be very proud of her house today. Here he goes through her namesake bubbly.
Time+Tide
The world’s watch media unites to support our Australian bushfire crisis watch auction
To say that we’ve been humbled by the support we’ve received from our peers in the watch industry would be understating it. Discovering, through this crisis, the depth of feeling others have for our country, our people and our wildlife has been truly unforgettable. A searing, life-affirming experience. If I could choose one quote to sum it up - and … ContinuedThe post The world’s watch media unites to support our Australian bushfire crisis watch auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“Watch & Act!” Auction Item - Lot 4: A classic from the Longines Heritage Collection
The Heritage Diver 1967 was released at the first Basel we attended as Time+Tide, so it holds special significance. It was also one of our favourite releases of the year, with its heft, heritage-correct styling and dashing colour scheme, it photographed beautifully and remains a solid submarine option in the truest sense. This watch is … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 4: A classic from the Longines Heritage Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Interview: Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Creative Director at Bulgari Watches
Noted watch designers are usually prolific, but often famous for a handful, or even just one or two, creations. The obvious example is the late Gerald Genta, who conceived tens of thousands of designs, but is best known for his twin luxury-sports watches of 1972 and 1976. And so it is for Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the chief watch designer at Bulgari. Born in Naples but having moved to Rome as a child, the 49-year old joined Bulgari in 2001, after a short stint at Fiat in Turin straight out of design school. Over the 19 years designing watches for Bulgari, with several spent as a freelancer in the mid 2000s, he has created numerous and diverse timepieces, but the Octo Finissimo is his definitive work to date. The sleek and exceptionally thin watch has won critical acclaim, as well as many awards, since its launch in 2014. While it is probably too early to elevate the design to iconic status – something he admits below – the Octo Finissimo certainly has a good chance of getting there. The new Octo Finissimo in steel Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani I admire Mr Buonamassa Stigliani’s work with the Octo Finissimo, and though I managed to speak with him on several occasions over the years, they were brief conversations. But at last week’s LVMH Watch Week in Dubai – where Bulgari, Hublot, and Zenith presented their latest timepieces – I spoke with him at length. In an enlightening interview, he discussed the conception and construction of the Octo Finissimo, watch ...
Revolution
The Dev’s in the Details
The Oscar-nominated, Bafta-winning Dev Patel – star of Slumdog Millionaire – talks to Revolution about his passion for acting, pottery and IWC.
Revolution
Jean-Claude Biver - Chevalier de l’Ordre National de la Légion d’Honneur
Join us in congratulating Jean-Claude Biver on receiving France’s highest civilian honour and being made “Chevalier de l’Ordre National de la Légion d’Honneur.”
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Why Cartier clockmaking is a mystery
Louis Cartier has an important place in the history of the Cartier company, not only because he ran the first-ever Paris boutique but because he was responsible for one of the most enigmatic creations the brand released, the Cartier Mystery Clock. The origins of the Mystery Clock are found in 1912, when Louis Cartier began … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why Cartier clockmaking is a mystery appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“Watch & Act!” Auction Item - Lot 3: Bulgari’s Golden Serpent
One of the key pieces in Bulgari’s recent resurgence, alongside the record-breaking 50+ award-winning Octo Finissimo, the Serpenti Tubogas represents the height of feminine elegance. Note the serpentine Tubogas bracelet that snakes sensuously around the wearer’s wrist. It is offered here in 18k yellow gold with a silver opaline dial. This watch has been generously … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 3: Bulgari’s Golden Serpent appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Co-Axial Master Chronometer GMT Worldtimer 43mm
An amagnetic, chronometer-rated worldtimer with a vibrant, laser-ablated map.
Revolution
The G-SHOCK Gateway: A Watch Collector’s Journey
Casio Singapore, in partnership with Revolution, sits down with local collector, Dr Julian Ong, who got his start collecting G-SHOCKs in his youth.
Revolution
Watch I Love: IWC Mk 11
Our Editor-at-Large, Ken Kessler, kicks off a new series about Revolution editors’ favorite watches with the legendary IWC Mk 11.
Revolution
Ferrari Watches: The Modern Era
From Panerai to Hublot, our Editor at Large completes his tour through some greatest hits from a watch world that loves a bit of Ferrari.
Time+Tide
This Oris Aquis Depth Gauge isn’t trying to be a vintage dive watch
Editor’s note: The last couple of years have seen a very distinct trend with the majority of Swiss watchmakers - the rise of the re-edition. You know what I’m talking about: re-edition, re-creation, reinterpretation … whatever you want to call it, vintage-inspired watches are the vogue right now. And I get it, a watchmaker looking … ContinuedThe post This Oris Aquis Depth Gauge isn’t trying to be a vintage dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Watch Spotting: Millie Bobby Brown Wearing An Audemars Piguet And More At The SAG Awards
A reference 15450 no less!
Time+Tide
Is the new Bulgari Octo Finissimo better in steel or ceramic?
We’re not even a month into 2020 but already Bulgari has released a collection of stunning new references in the Octo Finissimo range, with two standout pieces in steel and ceramic. But which piece is more compelling? The team share their thoughts. James Robinson – Team Steel The biggest news, by far, coming out of … ContinuedThe post Is the new Bulgari Octo Finissimo better in steel or ceramic? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Throwback Sundays: Six recommended hand-wound watches
We pick six hand-wound watches from our archives and proposed them to you for your collection. From Lange, VC, Grand Seiko, Chopard, Voutilainen and HYT.
Time+Tide
Weekend watch spotting with JR: #3
This weekend, I wore my DOXA SUB 200 130th Anniversary and went out in search of what other like-minded individuals had decided to attach to their wrist, and this is what I found out in the wild: Kosta’s Grand Seiko 9F quartz GMT SBGN005 Kosta’s passion for timepieces is still very much in its infancy … ContinuedThe post Weekend watch spotting with JR: #3 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
LVMH Watch Week 2020: A Round Table Discussion Of A New-Generation Group Fair And A Photofest Of New Watches From Zenith, Hublot And Bulgari
As Baselworld and Watches & Wonders (formerly SIHH) continue to evolve, change, and metamorphose, the various groups and brands continue to ponder how to best show their new watches to both retail and press. In an experimental trial run for a new-age solution, LVMH staged a small fair comprising three of its watch brands – Zenith, Hublot, and Bulgari – in Bulgari's Dubai Resort. Here's what we thought of the event.
Deployant
Review: Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK series
Grand Seiko released a 'new' cushion case and modified manual winding movement with the 2019 SBGK series. The SBGK series consisted of 3 limited edition models, and 3 regular production models.
Quill & Pad
Andreas Strehler Trans-Axial Remontoir Tourbillon: Focusing On Precision - Reprise
Andeas Strehler's Trans-Axial Remontoir Tourbillon uses the watchmaker's definitive style to create an even more accurate timepiece than he has made before. And since Strehler also likes to focus on impressive mechanics, he has done it in a way that stood out among the multitude of new watches presented at Baselworld 2018. Which is worth repeating.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar China Edition
Audemars Piguet has just taken the covers off the seventh and latest country-specific Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, after the editions for Hong Kong, Thailand, Switzerland, Indonesia, Japan, and Latin America – this time, it’s for the Chinese market. Launched just three months after the debut of the gorgeous skeleton version in black ceramic, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar China Limited Edition is a first for Audemars Piguet, being the only Royal Oak perpetual calendar to date in titanium. Though the material is novel, the size and finishing are identical to that of the standard model, which means 41 mm and gorgeously contrasting brushed and polished surfaces from end to end. The dial is dark grey, and engine-turned with the signature chequerboard tapisserie guilloche of the Royal Oak. It has the week-of-the-year indicator in red, traditionally an auspicious colour in Chinese culture and one that’s synonymous with the Lunar New Year. Similarly, the presentation box for the watch is finished in red, instead of the usual dark green. Another reference to Chinese culture is the limited edition size of 88 – “8” is phonetically similar to “prosper” in many Chinese dialects, making it a most desirable number. Unusually, the China edition was developed with the input of horological influencer Austen Chu, better known as Horoloupe on Instagram, who “contributed towards the overall aesthetics” according to Audemars Piguet. Michael Friedman, Head of Complication...
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Pair Of Rolex Watches From NFL Players, A Mint Tissot, And An Unusual IWC
Your weekly round-up of the hottest vintage watches on the web.
Time+Tide
Great ‘Grams: A beautiful Bulgari and more …
Welcome back to Great ’Grams, where we take a look at some of my favourite Instagram posts of the last week, by some of the most interesting people in the watch world. Last week we spanned the gulf of limited edition A. Lange & Söhne to the best in vintage Seiko and more, but this … ContinuedThe post Great ‘Grams: A beautiful Bulgari and more … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Zenith Defy 21 Land Rover Edition
The Zenith Defy 21 is unquestionably strong value for money – a 1/100th of a second chronograph starting at just over US$10,000 for the base model in titanium. But most of the iterations of the Defy 21 so far have a highly technical look, combining a skeletonised dial with a large, angular case. Now the Defy 21 design has taken a sharp turn in another another direction: with the help of Land Rover, Zenith has given it a makeover, creating the minimalist and functional Defy 21 Land Rover Edition. While automotive-inspired watches are often over designed, the Defy 21 Land Rover Edition has been redesigned in a simple and effective manner; the watch has been streamlined and pared back, giving it a slightly military look that works. The styling is a nod to the 2020 Land Rover Defender, the most no-nonsense of the British carmaker’s offerings that was launched in late 2019. Clean lines and surfaces To start with the case is micro-blasted titanium – finished with a finer-than-usual frosting that is faintly granular, in contrast to the coarser frosting that is more commonly applied to titanium. The surface is smooth enough that is resembles a coating, but it is natural titanium. The simplicity of the case finish is appealing, because it suits the chunky, angular form of the case. But it is also practical, because it reduces the perceived size of the case, which is large at 44 mm by 14.4 mm. But being titanium, the case is fairly lightweight and wears comfortably, though...
Deployant
Review: Longines Heritage Classic “Sector Dial”
We take a look and review another popular vintage-inspired timepiece from Longines - the all-new Heritage Classic "Sector Dial".