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Christopher Ward Gets Ready for the Summer with the C60 Trident Reef Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Gets Ready Jun 19, 2025

Christopher Ward Gets Ready for the Summer with the C60 Trident Reef

2025 has already been a memorable year for Christopher Ward. Having launched the C12 Loco back in April, their most ambitious watch to date, they’ve further shown they are an indie force to be reckoned with. But, while the C12 Loco proved that they can achieve complicated watchmaking at a reasonable price, it was still on the top end of their catalog. To balance this, for their next launch, they are returning, to some extent, to their roots with an affordable diver, the C60 Trident Reef. Please note that production watches will differ from the samples shown in the following ways: the depth rating will match the color of the “automatic” text, and the hour hand will be rhodium plated. A playful riff on the Trident C60 platform, the Reefs are modern, colorful, and feel like a throwback to watches from about a decade ago, rather than something mid-century. Coming in five colors and two sizes, they feature a new case with a shrouded mid-section, allowing for a dynamic design, especially at the price. Wrapped in matte aluminum (save one version), the mid-cases are anodized to match the aluminum bezel inserts. The result is fun and unexpected, if intense, particularly on a model like the orange shown. Measuring either 41 x 47.9 x 11.45mm or 44 x 51.4 x 11.45mm, both models feature 22mm lugs and 200m of water resistance, positioning them as medium and large divers in the C Ward collection, which fills gaps left by the C60 Pros. The 44mm model, in particular, will be met with...

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Introducing – The New MeisterSinger Pangaea and Neo Johann Strauss Editions Monochrome
MeisterSinger Jun 19, 2025

Introducing – The New MeisterSinger Pangaea and Neo Johann Strauss Editions

MeisterSinger, the German watchmaker celebrated for its single-hand time displays, pays tribute to one of classical music’s most iconic figures: Johann Strauss. Known globally as the “Waltz King” and composer of the Blue Danube, Strauss is honoured with two special edition watches made to commemorate the 200th anniversary of his birth. The Johann Strauss Pangaea […]

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Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT Review Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Jun 18, 2025

Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT Review

The GMT market has changed dramatically in the past seven years. I use that number specifically, because it takes us to 2018, when Tudor brought attainable traveller GMT (independent hour hand functionality) to market in a splashy way. Since then we have seen brands like Longines and Mido continue the work by delivering more options at even better price points. From a general “caller GMT” standpoint, Seiko has knocked it out of the park with models like those within the SSK range. We are living in a GMT moment with more options than ever. But if you took things back just one more year, to 2017, you could argue that it was the year Japan’s Grand Seiko made a mic-dropping value statement by way of the SBGM221, a traveller GMT in a dressier package with elite functionality while delivering value that far outpaces its price point. In 2025, that value proposition has not changed at all. Background:  The DNA of the SBGM221 looks back to the early roots of Grand Seiko in the 1960s to inform its design, but from a modern standpoint more directly can look to the SBGM021 released around 2010. That year is significant because it was the first year the brand arrived in the U.S. market. Aesthetically, the SBGM021 is an illustration of the older style of co-branded Seiko/Grand Seiko fare. Fast forward to 2017, and the watch reaches its completed form. But the 021, with its ivory dial, and general – and honestly quite original – GMT layout is established. You can see the direc...

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W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Jun 18, 2025

Inside Soprod: Where Mechanical Movements are Made

About two hours away from Geneva, heading north and a touch east, just along the border with France, you’ll find the Jura region of Switzerland. One of the fabled centers of Swiss watch production, the scenery is idyllic, and the towns are old, small, and quiet. Compared to the urban centers of Geneva, Basel, Zurich, and Biel/Bienne, it would be considered rural, even if it is only a short distance away. And yet, this pastoral scene belies what is happening in many of the buildings dotted along the landscape. Inside, raw metals are transformed into incredible mechanisms and luxury goods through processes that are both coarse and delicate. In short, it’s where watches get made. On the tail end of my trip to Watches & Wonders 2025, rather than heading straight home, tired and needing a watch detox, I took a short trip to Jura to visit not a watch company, but a movement manufacturer: Soprod. Founded in 1966, as of 2008, Soprod has been part of the Festina group, and is one of a small handful of third-party, Swiss-made movement suppliers. Although the company undertakes behind-the-scenes development for large luxury brands, including module design, it is known among watch enthusiasts as an alternative to ETA and Sellita, one that is becoming increasingly prevalent among indie brands. The post Inside Soprod: Where Mechanical Movements are Made appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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The Cornell Watch Company Introduces the Lozier, with a Case, Crown, Dial and Hands Made in the United States Worn & Wound
Jun 18, 2025

The Cornell Watch Company Introduces the Lozier, with a Case, Crown, Dial and Hands Made in the United States

Back in February, Alec Dent wrote a story about two new references from Cornell Watch Company, and hinted at a much more significant development a little further down the line. Well, we are now far enough down that proverbial line to see what Cornell has been teasing, not just since their February release, but in conversations with brand founders John and Chrissy Warren going back to at least the summer of last year. Cornell’s initial release, a quite expensive modern interpretation of classic American pocket watches made by the original incarnation of the Cornell Watch Company, was and continues to be a very beautifully made luxury watch. But, as any brand owner will tell you, it’s difficult to run a watch brand based on one single, expensive product. Even more so when that product is produced, as much as possible, here in the United States with an assist from industry legend Roland Murphy at RGM. It’s largely that desire to make something in America that animates Cornell, and it’s led them to their newest offering, the Lozier, a far more affordable watch that can be produced at scale, and is made in partnership with Ohio’s Hour Precision, also profiled recently by Alec Dent. The Lozier is a three-hander designed for everyday wear, and inspired chiefly by watches produced in the first half the 20th century. It’s 37.5mm in diameter and measures 8.5mm tall, including the crystal. One of the most notable design quirks of the watch is the broad 22mm lug width, a d...

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First Look – The New Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Rose Gold Monochrome
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Jun 18, 2025

First Look – The New Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Rose Gold

The new Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Rose Gold adds a refined, luxurious reference to the brand’s Gravity Equal Force line. First introduced in 2019, the collection debuted with the groundbreaking Gravity Equal Force System 78, the world’s first automatic wristwatch with a stop-work declutch mechanism and Geneva cross inside the barrel, designed […]

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Interview – Horologer MING’s Founder Ming Thein on The Past, Present and Future of an Unusual Watch Brand Monochrome
Ming Jun 18, 2025

Interview – Horologer MING’s Founder Ming Thein on The Past, Present and Future of an Unusual Watch Brand

In a world where the watch industry is often anchored in heritage and tradition, Horloger MING takes a refreshingly modern approach, melding unique aesthetics with a thoughtful design philosophy. At the heart of it all is Ming Thein, photographer, designer and engineer, whose vision has propelled the brand from a bold idea to a cult […]

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Greubel Forsey Reworks the GMT Balancier Convexe SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Reworks Jun 18, 2025

Greubel Forsey Reworks the GMT Balancier Convexe

Greubel Forsey has refined its GMT Balancier Convexe with improved wearability due to a slightly smaller case, while maintaining the model’s trademark three-dimensional rotating globe. This is paired with some subtle, but interesting tweaks to the movement itself, including a new, and more elaborately decorated, escape wheel. Initial Thoughts Since the original GMT in 2011, the three-dimensional globe has become a Grebuel Forsey signature. Time zone-related complications are a natural fit for a sports watch, so much so that the brand’s first sports watch was a GMT. The brand has built on the GMT concept through multiple iterations, but the current version is arguably the most focused, without a tourbillon (or four), to distract from the core idea. The latest GMT Balancier Convexe is essentially the same as the previous model, but more wearable. It’s still a large watch, but scaled down and also might lightweight. The added power reserve indicator is also appreciated, and in hindsight, it’s odd that the function was absent in the first place given the utility of a power reserve display on a manual-wind travel watch. The World on Your Wrist Grebuel Forsey’s sporty Convexe cases have always worn somewhat smaller than specifications suggest due to the lug-less design, and the curved sapphire crystal back, which allows the watch to hug the wrist. However, a large watch that wears well is still a large watch. For the new GMT, Grendel Forsey has trimmed the case diamete...

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Amida Introduces the Digitrend Open Sapphire Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs as comps either Jun 17, 2025

Amida Introduces the Digitrend Open Sapphire

When the Amida Digitrend arrived last summer, it was part of a crop of new releases from independent brands making interesting designs and complications accessible to a wider audience, and it really won me over. In my review last year I cited watches from Toledano & Chan, SpaceOne, and Holthinrichs as comps, either in spirit, technical features, or both. Those brands of course are still very much in the mix, and a year later there are even more examples of watches that offer unique value at competitive price points by introducing enthusiasts to new ways of thinking about what a watch can be. This is a long-winded way of saying that the market for these types of watches is more competitive than ever, so a follow up release becomes that much more important. Amida, for their part, is seeking to keep the momentum going by introducing a new version of the Digitrend that sheds some literal light on how they achieve their unique complication.  The Amida Digitrend Open Sapphire is essentially exactly what it says it is – a Digitrend with a large sapphire window affixed to the case that allows the wearer to see the jump hour mechanism inside. Previously, this area was covered by a solid sheet of metal, an aesthetic drawn from the brand’s interest in automotive design. They are applying similar principles to the new version that leaves the “engine” (their terminology) exposed, referencing removable Targa tops as a point of inspiration.  The Digitrend, for those who need a ...

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Introducing – The Credor GCBD997 with Artist Akira Yamaguchi Monochrome
Grand Seiko Jun 17, 2025

Introducing – The Credor GCBD997 with Artist Akira Yamaguchi

Thanks to the recent introduction of the revived Locomotive watch, made with Gérald Genta, many might have finally got to know about Credor, the high-end watch brand owned by the Seiko Watch Corporation, alongside Grand Seiko. For now, its fame mostly came from the splendid Eichi models, as well as the ultra-complicated minute repeaters and grande sonneries. But […]

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The Lanco Alarm: Appreciating Langendorf’s Innovative and Overlooked Single-Crowned Mechanical Alarm Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Poljot Girard-Perregaux Citizen Bulova Jun 17, 2025

The Lanco Alarm: Appreciating Langendorf’s Innovative and Overlooked Single-Crowned Mechanical Alarm

It’s no secret that the visuals of a watch are often why collectors pull the trigger on adding yet another piece to their collection. It could be a specific color, the inclusion of a certain desirable bezel insert, the symmetry of a double register chronograph, or many other aesthetic reasons. This isn’t to say that the movement and build quality are not also a part of this decision-making process, but one of the chief reasons many of us love to collect is for the joy we feel putting one on wrist, potentially matching it with an outfit, and gawking at it throughout our busy days. What I wish to do here is move away from this mindset and instead appreciate how mechanical ingenuity can produce the same amount of excitement and allure. This Lanco Alarm watch may seem relatively lackluster at first glance. A simplistic silver case and dial with very few flashy or notable design choices, it could be easily mistaken for dozens of watches and brands who sold timepieces in the 1960s and 70s. Its most interesting characteristic is perhaps what’s most unremarkable on any other vintage dress piece: the use of a single crown.  By the 1960s, brands like Vulcain, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Poljot, Girard-Perregaux, Citizen, Bulova, and Helbros had released their own alarm watches, many of which utilized movements made by outside movement manufactures like A. Schild and Venus. The common denominator between these models and movements was the two crown layout: one typically adjusted and wou...

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Seiko SSK023 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Jun 17, 2025

Seiko SSK023 Review

Let's begin this review of the Seiko 5 GMT Sports SSK023 with a spirited chant: "NWA! NWA!" No, I’m not the hype man for the groundbreaking ‘90s hip-hop act. It’s a New Watch Alert, and all kidding aside, I went and bought a watch, something I haven’t done since I picked up my Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar last year. In spite of my attraction to that yellow-dialed wrist magnet, there’s a new contender in my regular rotation, and it’s not Swiss. Nope, I’ve gone and picked up a new Seiko 5 GMT Sports model, and it’s getting an awful lot of my attention. I’ve fallen hard for the SSK023, probably the most basic four-hander in the Japanese brand's catalog, and I couldn’t be happier. Now, this is hardly my first Seiko rodeo. I’m a longtime fan whose gateway was an old-school 6309-7049, the famed "Turtle" dive watch, discovered by my wife in a mom & pop jewelry store for a mere hundred bucks. It’s not even my first Seiko 5 spin around the block, and I’ve got the SNXJ89, Seiko’s budget take on a classic silver-dialed Datejust, to prove it. However, it is my first Seiko 5 Sports watch with the new-era logo. Prior to the SSK023, I did snag the 55th Anniversary LE, the SRPK17, and it’s everything it’s advertised to be, with its note-perfect re-creation of the very first Seiko 5 Sports model from 1968. That tonneau-cased beauty is a banger, down to the original Seiko 5 shield logo, but the SNK023 represents my first real dip into the modern Seiko 5 pool, and...

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Watches & Wonders Announces 2026 Dates SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jun 17, 2025

Watches & Wonders Announces 2026 Dates

Anchored by brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) is the world’s biggest luxury watch fair  and it will take place at its traditional time of early spring, April 14-20, 2026, once again at Palexpo. As is now convention, the final three days, April 18-20, will be open to the public, who can access the fair by buying a ticket. The first four days will only be open to invited guests, namely members of the trade, primarily brand executives, retailers, media, as well as select clients. W&W; will also stage events outside Palexpo, the convention centre near the airport, with several events planned in downtown Geneva. In past years, these have included exhibitions, talks, and social gatherings. The exhibitors for 2026 have yet to be announced, but the establishment brands are a certainty, including the brands owned by Richemont like A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin, and the LVMH marques like TAG Heuer and Hublot. There has been talk of brands joining (or returning to) the list of exhibitors – Bulgari was a newcomer in 2025 – but this will soon be known once W&W; publishes the exhibitors directory.  

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Up Close: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon SJX Watches
Casio nally controversial lugs give Jun 17, 2025

Up Close: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon

Urban Jürgensen has been revived in fine style thanks to its investors and of course Kari Voutilainen. With the Finn in charge of watchmaking, the reborn brand made its debut with a trio of watches led by the flagship Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon. Inspired by the Oval pocket watch made by Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen, the UJ-1 is impressive in its execution, from construction to decoration. The quality is evident across the watch, which is unsurprising given Mr Voutilainen’s role in its conception and production. And the occasionally controversial lugs give an otherwise classical watch a distinct character. Initial thoughts The fine details of the UJ-1 are easily apparent in the metal. The movement decoration and construction are both impeccable, and so is the guilloche on the dial. But it is details like the engine turned case back and typography that give the UJ-1 that little bit of extra refinement. It is obvious from the photos, the movement quality is outstanding. Frosting, black polishing, chamfering, and so on – all are expertly accomplished. Moreover, all of the decoration is done in a traditional, often manual manner, rather than being mostly done by machine and then finished off by hand as is increasingly the case now. But finishing is merely the more obvious aspect of the appeal. The construction of the movement is equally impressive. It captures the style of the Oval pocket watch, including the three-dimensionality and clean aesthetics. Even though...

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Kudoke Celebrates 20 Years with the Kudoke 2 SHH Edition SJX Watches
Jun 17, 2025

Kudoke Celebrates 20 Years with the Kudoke 2 SHH Edition

The Kudoke 2 SHH Edition celebrates 20 years of the independent brand founded by husband-and-wife Stefan and Ev Kudoke. A run of 20 pieces exclusive to Singapore retailer Sincere Fine Watches, the edition sports the “flakes” dial finish in a first for the Kudoke 2, which features a distinctive day-night indicator at 12 o’clock. Initial Thoughts Stefan Kudoke was only in his mid-twenties when he founded his eponymous brand. Kudoke’s focus on detailed, graphic hand engraving has helped the brand differentiate itself as more independents, often focusing on movement finishing and guilloche, have sprung up over the years. While the SHH Edition comes at a considerable premium to the regular production Kudoke 2, it’s easily justified by the champagne rosé dial hand engraved with a “flakes” finish. When considering both the quality and quantity of engraving, the SHH Edition maintains the competitive pricing Kudoke is known for. Dial The SHH Edition brings the “flakes” pattern dial, first launched on the Kudoke 3, to the Kudoke 2 for the first time. The dial surface is covered with hundreds of tiny divots resembling flakes, which give the dial a sparkly finish. Each “flake” is painstakingly free-hand engraved, leaving no two dials exactly alike. Similar care is given to the rotating 24-hour disk at 12 o’clock, which has a deeply engraved, rose-gold plated sun on one half, and on the other half,  a moon and stars motif that’s engraved and lumed in blue. T...

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Orient Bambino Review: Still The Best Watch For $300? Teddy Baldassarre
Orient Jun 16, 2025

Orient Bambino Review: Still The Best Watch For $300?

Ah yes, the Orient Bambino. Over the years this is a watch that I have come to appreciate for what it represents to the broader horological universe, but I also respect the way Teddy, the man, and TEDDY, the business, have been able to truly platform this particular model over the years. Some time ago, for another publication, I penned an essay about the Orient Bambino Version 2 – the model with the applied Roman numerals at 40mm. I boldly proclaimed that, in the wake of the Seiko SKX’s discontinuation, that this watch was the new value king - the unsung best buy in truly affordable automatic watches I still believe that, despite the price creeping up a hair over $300 these days. Of course, the SKX did return in the form of the Seiko 5 Sports SKX series that we will be getting our hands on soon enough but the 42.5mm wide and 13.9mm thick case might trim the potential clientele. And it does cost more than the Bambino at $425. Today, we are looking at two iterations of the Orient Bamino starting with the 40mm Bambino v2 in steel, with its white dial and blued hands. I own the edition with rose gold-toned touches. I actually bought it after writing the aforementioned article. And while I do not wear it a ton, it is one of the watches I appreciate most. It’s a sub-$300 watch that looks and feels like something at five times that price tag. I will also be looking at the 38mm version that was introduced last year as part of a trio on bracelet, an addition that gives the ...

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Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin Unveil a Third Round of their “Time Eater” Collaboration Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Jun 16, 2025

Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin Unveil a Third Round of their “Time Eater” Collaboration

Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin, the only Russian member of the AHCI, have teamed up once again for a new batch of their hit “Time Eater” collaboration. It’s been about two years since their first collaboration, which was an immediate hit for both parties and sold out quickly. A follow up limited edition came a few months later, this one much darker in tone, both in terms of the dial and case, and also the mood of the piece- that bloodshot eye really leaves an impression. For their third release, Chaykin and Louis Erard have returned to their original idea, offering a pair of watches that fans of the original who might have missed out will likely be quite interested in taking a look at when they go on sale in a few days.  The fact that this collaboration exists at all is one of the things we like most about Louis Erard as a brand. They’ve really found a niche in developing limited edition projects with interesting collaborators both in and outside of the watch industry. A watchmaker like Konstantin Chaykin, who has risen to prominence in recent years with his “Wristmons” series of watches, makes watches that are likely out of reach for most collectors. But through Louis Erard, Chaykin, along with watchmakers like Stefan Kudoke and Vianney Halter, brings his design ethos down to earth, making it approachable to enthusiasts who admire his work but would never be able to spend tens of thousands on a single piece. Together with Louis Erard, Chaykin has essentia...

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30 Best Field Watches For Every Budget Teddy Baldassarre
Jun 16, 2025

30 Best Field Watches For Every Budget

Field watches are among the most straightforwardly utilitarian of timepieces, deriving their design and functionality from early 20th century timepieces worn by soldiers and other military operators “in the field,” hence the umbrella term. While they will vary in their design elements and details, field watches (earlier models were also called “trench watches,” a reference to their usage in the trench warfare of World War I) are recognizable for a handful of elements that are mostly omnipresent: clean, highly legible dials with few if any superfluous subdials (some use a small seconds display); luminous hands and numerals; big, readable hour markers (mostly Arabic numerals, occasionally indexes; the "purist" version of a field watch dial likely includes a 12-hour scale with an additional 13-24-hour ring for military time, as you'll note in many of the models here); and a general sense of toughness and reliability while being understated in both size and design (the smaller and lighter the watch, the less burden on a soldier already loaded with gear). Many of these qualities also define the style elements of early pilot's watches, with which field watches share many MIL-SPEC similarities, hence the occasional crossover model. Here are 25 modern-day field watches (or watches that tick the "field watch" boxes nicely) that are on the market in 2022. For browsing and shopping convenience, we list them in ascending order of price, from everyday models around $200 to luxu...

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First Look – The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Regulator Time Eater III Monochrome
Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Regulator Jun 16, 2025

First Look – The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Regulator Time Eater III

Watchmaking is generally considered serious business. Luckily, there are more and more brands that embrace humour. Which is not to say they are not serious about their watches; far from it. Louis Erard, under the inspired leadership of Manuel Emch, is one such brand, enlisting famous designers like Alain Silberstein to enliven models with his […]

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The Living Art of the Aballe Horologium Spinale Silver Watch Bracelet Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Nautilus acts as Jun 16, 2025

The Living Art of the Aballe Horologium Spinale Silver Watch Bracelet

We are all familiar with the concept of a grail piece. That seemingly unobtainable watch that sits saved in our search history, popping up across multiple “For You Pages” because they are always listening, taunting you as a reminder of your horological shortcomings. Well, what happens when you achieve the unthinkable? What happens when you finally have that grail watch? At some point, after swiping the watch from your nightstand and mindlessly throwing it on as you do every day, you are going to find yourself in a room with someone else who has that same quest. Yes, your watch is your watch, and each scratch is yours, and the two watches may have completely different stories. However, for production pieces, the reality is that at some point, it may not feel as unique and exciting as it did back when it sat behind Gorilla Glass. Watch modification comes into play for those special circumstances to set you apart from the select crowd.  That is where this story takes shape. Though, to be fair to the process, it had been in the works for a good while before that, living in the recesses of the artist’s brain. Milestone watches are very real for many people, especially in the financial sector. A signal of status and success, they can help signal trust to a new client while placing you on a tier list of your peers. Think business cards in American Psycho. For many at the higher tier, the Patek Philippe Nautilus acts as a trophy, as it did for Onchain Lifestyle creator GMon...

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Introducing – The New Green Editions of the Moritz Grossmann Tremblage Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Jun 16, 2025

Introducing – The New Green Editions of the Moritz Grossmann Tremblage

One of the few, if not only, women to lead an independent watch brand, Christine Hutter has steered Moritiz Grossmann down the path of refined watchmaking with low production numbers, in-house calibres, and a dedication to Schönstes deutsches Handwerk – the most beautiful German craftsmanship. First unveiled in 2021, the Tremblage model from the Benu […]

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First Look – The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph with Ocean Grey Lacquer Dial Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Jun 16, 2025

First Look – The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph with Ocean Grey Lacquer Dial

First released in 2018, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection was designed to reintroduce a sports range alongside the brand’s classical Reverso and Master lineups. Deeply inspired by the 1968 Memovox Polaris dive watch with its alarm mechanism, there was more to the collection than just this complication, as the brand also released some pretty attractive chronographs. […]

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