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Results for François-Paul Journe

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François-Paul Journe

Founder of F.P. Journe; the modern Breguet. Invenit et Fecit.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN – The Sex, Crime & Russell Crowe Edition Time+Tide
Apr 29, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN – The Sex, Crime & Russell Crowe Edition

This week’s wind down comes from an unfamiliar voice. Right now, Nick is on holiday and reportedly sunning himself by a pool in Noosa wearing his infamously skimpy trunks and sipping a neon-blue cocktail. So I’m stepping into the breach to fill you in on a rather eventful week. The main news: we accidentally copped … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN – The Sex, Crime & Russell Crowe Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Erard Makes Traditional, Hand-Executed Guilloche Affordable SJX Watches
Louis Erard Makes Traditional Hand-Executed Guilloche Apr 29, 2021

Louis Erard Makes Traditional, Hand-Executed Guilloche Affordable

Although best known for its collaborations with independent watchmakers, Louis Erard is adept at introducing elements of high-end watchmaking in its accessibly-priced watches. The recent Excellence Email Grand Feu offered a grand feu enamel dial for less than 4,000 Swiss francs. Now Louis Erard is moving on to traditional engine turning with the Excellence Guilloché Main. Limited to 99 pieces, the watch features a chequer guilloché dial with an M.C Escher vibe, and an eminently affordable 3,900 Swiss franc price tag. Initial thoughts Consistently offering affordable timepieces that punch way above their price point, Louis Erard is fast becoming one of my favourite watchmakers. The Excellence Guilloché Main affirms my thoughts about the brand. It is an honest representation of a traditional decorative technique, but different. I find the chequer pattern to be even more striking than the standard guilloché patterns like hobnail or barleycorn. Executed to give it perspective, the pattern has a three-dimensional quality that endows the watch with a sense of depth uncommon on dials as wide and flat as this. And, the heat-blued hands add a welcome pop of colour to the otherwise monochrome palette. The simple functions of just hours and minutes allow the chequer guilloché to be admired in its full glory. I particularly like how Louis Erard prints its brand name on the underside crystal instead of the dial, which further enhances the perceived depth of the watch. That...

VIDEO: Why I bought a quartz Grand Seiko SBGN007 as my first “good watch” Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGN007 as my first Feb 28, 2021

VIDEO: Why I bought a quartz Grand Seiko SBGN007 as my first “good watch”

Your first good watch is an important step in your watch collecting journey. It represents your first serious commitment to the hobby and probably the first time you spend an amount of money that most people would consider completely preposterous on a wristwatch. But because of that commitment, inevitably your first good watch will always … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Why I bought a quartz Grand Seiko SBGN007 as my first “good watch” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Piaget’s Luxury-Sports Watch Gets the Skeleton Treatment SJX Watches
Piaget s Luxury-Sports Watch Gets Feb 2, 2021

Piaget’s Luxury-Sports Watch Gets the Skeleton Treatment

Long in Piaget’s catalogue – the original model was introduced in 1979 – the Polo underwent a significant redesign in 2016, transforming the charmingly 1970s original into the Polo S. Now the brand’s entry into the luxury-sports watch segment has received a major facelift with the Polo Skeleton, which boasts an open-worked movement that gives it a strikingly more distinctive aesthetic. But more than just a new face, the Polo Skeleton is also a step up in terms of wearability and sleekness: the open-worked movement results in a thinner case – one that’s a substantial 3 mm slimmer. The result is a case with proportions rivalling those of the thinnest-ever luxury-sports watch made by a certain Italian jeweller. Initial thoughts The revamp of the Polo five years ago stirred controversy, because the Polo S was a departure from the style of the vintage original, and a turn towards fashionable and predictable designs like the recently discontinued Nautilus. Still, the Polo S did combine strong quality with competitive pricing, explaining its subsequent commercial success. The original controversy means the Polo Skeleton is a better idea. Besides being more original visually, it incorporates many of the brand’s technical strengths. Ultra-thin watches are Piaget’s forte – the brand boasts the thinnest mechanical watch ever – and the 1200S  skeleton movement reflects that, being extra-thin and extra-revealing. The Polo Skeleton is a mere 6.5 mm high The Polo...

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is sportier and tougher with a panda dial Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph Jan 24, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is sportier and tougher with a panda dial

Last year, the time-only Octo Finissimo watches received a major upgrade in the form of a screw-down crown and improved depth rating of 100 metres. They also received contrasting finishes to the highly faceted surfaces of the case and bracelet. This resulted in a greater play with light and a watch that became both more … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is sportier and tougher with a panda dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Book Review: ‘Stalin’s Wine Cellar’ By John Baker Quill & Pad
Jan 12, 2021

Book Review: ‘Stalin’s Wine Cellar’ By John Baker

Whether 'Stalin’s Wine Cellar' is a journey about chasing fakes, or if these bottles hidden away in the former Soviet Union are genuine, the story makes for a rollicking saga. And if the bottles are genuine, who really did own them and what on earth might they be worth? The tale takes us on twist after twist and has been described as “Raiders of the Lost Ark for wine lovers.” Ken Gargett couldn't put the book down.

Auction Watch: Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile Grand Complication SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile Grand Dec 29, 2020

Auction Watch: Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile Grand Complication

Taking place at the end of the third week of January 2021, the first major international watch auction is Antiquorum’s Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces in Monaco. The 304-lot auction will be capped by an appropriately major watch – the very first Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Île Grand Complication that was produced for the watchmaker’s 250th anniversary in 2005. First sold for 1.88 million Swiss francs at the Quarter Millennium of Vacheron Constantin thematic auction staged by Antiquorum and Vacheron Constantin in April 2005, the Tour de l’Ile was one of the first mega-complications of the modern era. When the Tour de l’Ile was launched, the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002 was only three years old, the Lange Tourbograph had yet to be launched, and Greubel Forsey had only been founded a year earlier. At its launch, the Tour de l’Ile was billed as the world’s most complicated wristwatch – and also became the most expensive wristwatch sold at auction – thanks to its 16 complications displayed on two faces in a case 47 mm wide and almost 18 mm tall. Named after the location of Vacheron Constantin’s workshop in the 18th and 19th centuries – Tour de l’Ile literally translates as “tower on the island” – the wristwatch is powered by the 834-component cal. 2750. It features a minute repeater, perpetual calendar with moon phase, star chart, celestial annual calendar, tourbillon, sunrise and sunset times, equation of time, power...

Lessons Learned Free Ranging Peacocks (Peafowl): A Colorful Christmas ‘Tail’ (With Videos) Quill & Pad
Dec 26, 2020

Lessons Learned Free Ranging Peacocks (Peafowl): A Colorful Christmas ‘Tail’ (With Videos)

Peacocks on Quill & Pad? Well, if luxury is defined as an inessential, desirable item that is expensive or difficult to obtain, then peafowl surely fit the bill as well as any fine mechanical watch. Here Ian Skellern shares more than you are likely to ever need to know about free-ranging peacocks/peafowl, recounting his colorful journey to sharing a garden with Bonnie and Clyde along the way.

INTRODUCING: The Timex Marlin Automatic California brings a Cali dial to a new price point Time+Tide
Timex Marlin Automatic California brings Dec 20, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Timex Marlin Automatic California brings a Cali dial to a new price point

Great design for a great price. That’s why the Timex Marlin is an understandable darling of the watch community, with clear historical connection to a collection that the brand produced in the 1960s. The Marlin journey was restarted in 2017 when they launched a manually wound silver dial version, with sword hands, an attractive sunburst … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Timex Marlin Automatic California brings a Cali dial to a new price point appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Mugger sentenced to 9 years in prison for stealing £692K RM 69 Erotic Watch Time+Tide
Richard Mille Dec 1, 2020

Mugger sentenced to 9 years in prison for stealing £692K RM 69 Erotic Watch

Editor’s note: I remember it like it was yesterday. I was standing next to a stripper pole with a lovely girl named Agnes, who toured me through all the functions of the brand new RM 69 random-phrase-generating watch by Richard Mille. We then tried it out, so to speak. Lots of fun. But is it … ContinuedThe post Mugger sentenced to 9 years in prison for stealing £692K RM 69 Erotic Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Predictions In The Challenge Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Very Interesting Finalists With (Relatively) Affordable Pricing Quill & Pad
Nov 10, 2020

Our Predictions In The Challenge Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Very Interesting Finalists With (Relatively) Affordable Pricing

Watches entered into the Challenge category are offered for a retail price under 4,000 Swiss francs. This is perhaps the most popular category as it's for watches that more people can afford, and the competition is tough. Which explains why our panel of five has three different picks for the winner.

Our Predictions In The Petite Aiguille Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Comic Figures, Legibility Issues, Skeletonization, And An In-House Monopusher Quill & Pad
Nov 9, 2020

Our Predictions In The Petite Aiguille Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Comic Figures, Legibility Issues, Skeletonization, And An In-House Monopusher

The GPHG Petite Aiguille category is for watches with a retail price between 4,000 and 10,000 Swiss francs. This is a category that stands closer to the general public as it comprises watches that are far more affordable than the other categories except the Challenge category (under 4,000 Swiss francs).

Phillips auction battle of Swiss vs. Japanese handmade haute horology – which is better value? Time+Tide
Nov 9, 2020

Phillips auction battle of Swiss vs. Japanese handmade haute horology – which is better value?

Last night saw the Phillips’ and Blackbird thematic auction Retrospective: 2000 – 2020 play out, with some truly incredible watches reaching truly incredible prices. Two that I wanted to focus on were a pair of watches that are at the same time very similar and very different. Both are handmade. Both are three-handed dress watches … ContinuedThe post Phillips auction battle of Swiss vs. Japanese handmade haute horology – which is better value? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breaking News: Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary Sells for US$1.51m SJX Watches
Nov 8, 2020

Breaking News: Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary Sells for US$1.51m

The very first Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary to leave Mr Dufour’s workshop was the first major example of independent watchmaking at Phillips’ Retrospective: 2000-2020 auction. It set a very high bar, hammering for 1.1 million Swiss francs, or 1.36 million francs including fees, which is equivalent to US$1.51 million. Almost forty times the retail price of the Simplicity when it was launched in 2000, the price is a new record for the model. The result handily crosses an earlier record set just a month ago at Sotheby’s in Hong Kong, where an 34 mm example from the original production run sold for US$662,000. The Simplicity 20th Anniversary features a hinged hunter back, a feature not found in the original series Impressive as it is, the record price was reached swiftly. Although the estimate was 200,000-400,000 francs, a bidder on the phone represented by Tiffany To of Phillips opened with a 450,000 franc bid. The phone bidder was joined by a handful of fellow phone as well as in-room bidders – Mr Bacs commented during the proceedings there were seven phone lines active – along with a solo bid online from Singapore. The price rose quickly in 50,000 and 100,000 franc steps, with Ms To’s phone bidder clinching the prize. The seven-figure price for the Simplicity elevates Mr Dufour to the rarefied territory of living independent watchmakers whose wristwatches have sold for above US$1m at auction. There are just two watchmakers who can make that clai...

2020 FANTASY WATCH COLLECTION PART 1 – What watches would we buy with a budget of $5000 USD? Time+Tide
Oct 9, 2020

2020 FANTASY WATCH COLLECTION PART 1 – What watches would we buy with a budget of $5000 USD?

I can’t remember the last time we conducted a Fantasy Watch Collection poll at Time+Tide. But I’ve noticed something in 2020 amongst the team. With the majority of us locked down in Melbourne, Zoom meetings frequently degenerate into wistful commentaries on what we’re going to buy next. What’s where on the wish list. Fantasies aplenty. … ContinuedThe post 2020 FANTASY WATCH COLLECTION PART 1 – What watches would we buy with a budget of $5000 USD? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Santos-Dumont Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Cartier Santos-Dumont Hands-on Review INTRODUCTION Sep 3, 2020

Cartier Santos-Dumont Hands-on Review

INTRODUCTION: Born from a friendship between Louis Cartier and his pilot pal – Brazlian Aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont – the Cartier Santos was created as a tool to help Alberto tell the time when flying. In the century or so since, Cartier’s Santos has been at the forefront of the brands watch collection, widely loved for its timeless design and icon status.  In more recent years, Cartier’s watch department has been hard at work updating and refining their watch offering, collecting heaps of praise along the way. Earlier this year, the brand released a trio (the Santos-Dumont “Le Brésil,” “La Baladeuse,” and “No. 14 Bis” Limited Editions) of Large size limited editions during Watches & Wonders 2020.  Each of these three watches feature Cartier’s in-house and hand-wound movement, a 430 MC. They’re also made from a combination of different metals with a dial to match, and were made in different quantities. Each of the trio is named after one of Alberto Santos-Dumont’s famous aircraft, which is featured on the caseback, alongside a corresponding motif engraving.  Today, we’re taking a closer look at the No. 14 Bis Limited Edition, named after a biplane designed and built by Alberto Santos-Dumont, which made the first ‘publicly witnessed’ manned powered flight way back in 1906. The 14-Bis was also known as ‘Oiseau de proie’, French for ‘bird of prey’.  FIRST IMPRESSIONS:  I was blown away by my instantaneous affection for the Santo...

Wrist Game: Australians in the NBA and their watches, including Kyrie Irving, Ben Simmons & Patty Mills Time+Tide
Aug 27, 2020

Wrist Game: Australians in the NBA and their watches, including Kyrie Irving, Ben Simmons & Patty Mills

Since the days of the ’90s Chicago Bulls, led by the great Michael Jordan, basketball has become more and more of an international sport around the globe. Players from all over the world are recruited to play with the best of the best in the National Basketball Association (NBA). Australia is no exception; in fact … ContinuedThe post Wrist Game: Australians in the NBA and their watches, including Kyrie Irving, Ben Simmons & Patty Mills appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pandemic Truths – Shellman’s Yasuhiro Kojima SJX Watches
Aug 3, 2020

Pandemic Truths – Shellman’s Yasuhiro Kojima

One of the world’s most venerable retailers of vintage timepieces and independent watchmaking, Shellman in Ginza (pictured above) has long been a destination for horologically-inclined visitors to Tokyo. Shellman was founded in 1971 by Yoshi Isogai – the company name is a play on his last name, which loosely translates as “beach shellfish” – and is probably best known as the Japanese agent for Philippe Dufour and selling over half of the 200 first-run Simplicity watches. Two years ago Shellman was acquired by Komehyo, a publicly-listed merchant that has taken the business of selling pre-owned luxury goods to a whole new level with spacious, sharply-appointed stores offering items in stellar condition. Shellman is now the specialist-watch retail division of Komehyo, with six stores in Tokyo – including outposts in the city’s most prestigious department stores – and a diverse stable of independent watch brands, including Atelier de Chronometrie, Habring2, and Kudoke. It’s run by Yasuhiro Kojima, a 15-year veteran of Komehyo’s watch department who joined Shellman shortly after the acquisition. We caught up with Mr Kojima recently to discuss the state of the business, especially in light of the pandemic. Yasuhiro Kojima. Photo – Shellman The interview has been edited for clarity and length. What does your reopening look like? We take basic measures such as hand sanitisation before entering the store, measuring body temperature when entering the store, i...