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Results for Perpetual Calendar

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Perpetual Calendar

The mechanical calendar that knows leap years automatically through 2100.

Hands-on – The Perpetual Motions of the Roger Dubuis Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Orbis Apr 30, 2024

Hands-on – The Perpetual Motions of the Roger Dubuis Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon

Modern watches made by Roger Dubuis are the antithesis of understatement and always manage to deliver a compelling mix of traditional horological content with a dash of extravagant, expressive design. This year’s releases focused on the flying tourbillon, culminating in the Orbis in Machina model with its rare, centrally mounted regulator (only a few can […]

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is a True Super Watch Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Kodo I think Apr 24, 2024

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is a True Super Watch

Each year at Watches & Wonders, we see a handful of novelties that I think can fairly be described as Super Watches. These are the truly audacious creations that are, effectively, out of reach for all but that 1% of the 1% that has the coin and the inclination to buy into something incredibly niche, that’s incredibly expensive, that (honestly) might be years away from actually being produced and successfully delivered. The Grand Seiko Kodo, I think, is a good example of a Super Watch. It stopped everyone in their tracks, had an eye watering price point, and was the ultimate artistic and mechanical expression of the brand that made it. This year had a few Super Watch candidates (including another Kodo) but I think the winner walking away was a watch from A. Lange & Söhne that took the radical step of combining all the things people love about the brand into one watch. A Super Watch, if you will.  The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” was easily my favorite watch name to say aloud during the show. When someone would ask me what my favorite watch of the week was (a question you’re asked about fifty times per day, minimum) I’d reflexively say “Oh, the Lange,” and then continue, probably looking skyward while counting out the watch’s cumbersome title on my fingers, like a school kid figuring out a math problem, “the Datograph, perpetual, tourbillon, lumen,” (I’d always screw it up here) “in honeygold!” I’d be really proud of myself f...

IWC is Thinking Very Far Ahead with their New Portugieser Eternal Calendar Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Apr 9, 2024

IWC is Thinking Very Far Ahead with their New Portugieser Eternal Calendar

Watches that do more than a human being is capable of are nothing new. Rolex, Omega, and others make dive watches that are capable of reaching depths that no man or woman could survive. The Rolex Deepsea Challenge is rated to 11,000 meters (which means it’s tested to even greater depths) while the deepest point in the ocean is about 10,900 meters, give or take. That means this particular dive watch can go deeper than any depth possible on the planet. Even that, somehow, feels more practical than IWC’s big release at Watches & Wonders, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar. This is the brand’s first secular calendar, which accounts for leap-year exception rules in the Gregorian calendar that play out over a 400 year span. A calendar complication that no living human will have a chance to observe do its thing in real time is one thing, but it’s the moonphase on this watch that is truly looking ahead: IWC claims it’s accurate to 45 million years. And just think, it wasn’t even ten years ago that the Apple Watch had many in this industry scared that watchmaking could be killed by smart-gadgets. Talk about confidence.  The concept of a secular calendar will be worth a refresher for many, as it’s a truly rare complication that most brands simply don’t attempt given the incredibly long timeframes involved (the last one we discussed in these pages was from indie Furlan Marri). The gist is this: in addition to a leap year every four years, Gregorian calendar needs an ad...

Introducing – The Classically Elegant Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Annual Calendar Monochrome
Laurent Ferrier Apr 9, 2024

Introducing – The Classically Elegant Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Annual Calendar

After several iterations of its integrated sporty-chic watches, the Sport Auto and the Grand Sport Tourbillon, independent watchmaker Laurent Ferrier goes back to his roots. Known for the sublime elegance and smoothness of his creations, something he perfected during his long career at Patek, Laurent Ferrier introduces two highly elegant new models from its classic […]

First Look – The New Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moophase LE Chronometer Monochrome
Apr 5, 2024

First Look – The New Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moophase LE Chronometer

Established in 2016 by Sébastien Muller, a fourth-generation watchmaker, Brellum is an independent brand that employs a direct distribution model and offers exclusivity with only a few hundred pieces crafted each year, all COSC-certified chronometers. The Duobox, the brand’s inaugural collection, captured the hearts of enthusiasts with its timeless looks and competitive pricing, with several […]

William Wood’s Fire Exit Watch is a Truly Original Take on a Traditional Calendar Worn & Wound
Mar 14, 2024

William Wood’s Fire Exit Watch is a Truly Original Take on a Traditional Calendar

I have a complicated relationship with Day displays. So often, they’re crammed onto the dial, take up too much space, they don’t add much to the functionality of a watch - I frequently don’t know the date, I very rarely don’t know what day of the week it is - and throw everything out of balance. My… distaste for day-of-the-week displays (and frankly the complication as a whole) is why I prefer the Datejust to the Day-Date and have never kept an SKX for longer than a few months. Still, every so often, some brand comes along and does something so clever I can’t ignore it. Here, with the new Fire Exit Watch from William Wood Watches, we find clever in full supply. Those familiar with William Wood Watches will know that the brand draws heavy inspiration from the history (and materials) of firefighting, and the brand supports a number of firefighting charities. While most William Wood Watches draw their firefighting inspiration from firefighters and their equipment, the Fire Exit Watch draws from an oft-overlooked piece of fire safety gear, the emergency exit sign. Specifically, the Fire Exit Watch is based on the globally ubiquitous ISO standard (yes, they standardize more than dive watches!) green “Fire Exit Man” signs. Those of us who spend most of our time in the United States may be shocked to discover that, as with the metric system, most of the rest of the world has gotten on board with a single style of exit sign. With the Fire Exit Watch, William W...

Hands-On: Zenith’s New Chronomaster Sport and Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar References Worn & Wound
Zenith s New Chronomaster Sport Feb 26, 2024

Hands-On: Zenith’s New Chronomaster Sport and Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar References

Earlier this month, Zenith introduced their first new watches of the year at LVMH Watch Week. The new releases fill out their core Chronomaster Sport and Chronomaster Original lines with new colorways and, for the Original, a classic complication reintroduced for the first time in a modern context. Kat Shoulders and Zach Kazan got to spend some time with the new watches recently, and their thoughts, and Kat’s photos, are below. Stay tuned for a more detailed look at the new titanium version of the Chronomaster Sport coming soon. Kat Shoulders  When the Zenith Chronomaster Sport came out a few years ago, it caused quite the stir in the watch community. I always felt the watch was under-appreciated with its constant comparisons to the Daytona. What Zenith has done with the technology of the El Primero movement, renowned for its accuracy and high frequency, is amazing and it’s a shame this chronograph gets so often overlooked.  It was no surprise that when this year’s new Zenith releases came out, I was immediately drawn to the Chronomaster Sport series. While there aren’t any technical changes (not that they were needed), the new case materials were pleasant updates that have swayed me to consider picking one up. The titanium version is absolutely stellar and as many of you know, I’m not the biggest fan of the material, so that should go to tell you how cool this watch really is. The matte finishing is honestly the perfect choice for this sporty chronograph and I...

A Favorite Complication Returns to the El Primero Family with Zenith’s New Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Worn & Wound
Zenith s New Chronomaster Original Jan 29, 2024

A Favorite Complication Returns to the El Primero Family with Zenith’s New Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar

This week marks the unofficial (but also kind of official) beginning of a busy season of new watch releases with LVMH Watch Week. In recent years, LVMH Watch Week has served as an initial showcase for new novelties from the big brands that fall under the LVMH umbrella, and sets the stage for a period that culminates with Watches & Wonders in April. The timeline is a holdover from an era when trade shows were truly trade shows and watch brands would lock in their sales to worldwide dealer networks for the year. These days, that still happens, but it’s also full of very public launches and an all out media blitz by the brands. If the past is any indication, we’re likely to see splashy new release announcements from brands in the other big luxury groups as well as many independents in the coming months, but it kicks off with LVMH, and specifically Zenith, today.  Zenith’s big new LVMH Watch Week announcement this year is the return of the El Primero Triple Calendar, a favorite reference among collectors going back decades for its mix of sportiness and old-school refinement. The triple calendar has faded in popularity as a complication over the course of time, largely due to movement availability, but also simply thanks to a trend toward cleaner and less complicated designs. But the El Primero execution of the triple calendar has always been particularly well balanced in the way it conserves dial space and makes use of the chronograph subdials to draw the eye where it n...

Tool/Kit: Bush Flying in Alaska with Steve Davidson and the Vaer S3 Calendar Field Worn & Wound
Dec 21, 2023

Tool/Kit: Bush Flying in Alaska with Steve Davidson and the Vaer S3 Calendar Field

Every once in a while, you come across someone who can only be described as “The Real Deal” and we’re excited to tell you that Steve Davidson is just that. Steve is an Alaskan bush pilot and backcountry guide who spends his days flying around Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. He’s an avid outdoor enthusiast who grew up surfing and skiing and now takes adventurers, two at a time, deep into the Alaskan wilderness for wildlife spotting and backcountry skiing. Steve knows a thing or two about having the right kind of gear and he relies daily on his 36mm VAER S3 Calendar Field watch. For this final edition of Tool/Kit in 2023, Steve takes us through what it’s like to rely on a watch as a mission critical piece of gear for his life of flying in the bush. The post Tool/Kit: Bush Flying in Alaska with Steve Davidson and the Vaer S3 Calendar Field appeared first on Worn & Wound.