Deployant
Independent watchmaking: Start your journey with the best picks within a USD 20k budget
We discuss what is an independent watch brand, and make recommendations with 3 picks each from Robin, Stanley, and Peter to start your journey.
Results for Omega De Ville
25,095 articles · 204 videos found · page 481 of 844
Deployant
Monochrome
Buying Guide – Racing Meets Watchmaking with the 2025 Formula 1 Team Watches
If you’re like me, passionate about watches and Formula 1, I’m pretty sure you’re eyeballing the wrists of drivers, team principals and mechanics to see what they’re wearing. Some of them have a strong reputation for their wrist game, such as Lewis Hamilton and Toto Wolff. And since there has been an almost complete reshuffle for official […]
Hodinkee
In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Ref. 2497, Part 1: Patek's First Serially Produced Center Seconds Perpetual Calendar
In part one, we cover everything there is to know about the ref. 2497, its dials, cases, and general design history.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Ref. 2497, Part 2: The Rarest Examples And A Buyers Guide
It's almost more freeing to gawk at the rarest watches without worrying if you'll be able to buy them. But if you are buying, we’ve got you covered too.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, and Gear: Blade Show Returns, The Garnet Goblin, and David Lynch’s Legacy
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Gearing up for Blade Show Atlanta Blade Show Atlanta, the world’s largest knife show and a cornerstone event for the EDC community, kicks off next weekend (June 6-8th). With over 900 exhibitors, including both renowned brands and custom makers, the show offers an unrivaled opportunity to explore the latest in EDC knives, tools, and carry accessories. Show attendees can discover cutting-edge designs and educational seminars, making it a hub for innovation and craftsmanship in the industry. In addition, the event also hosts the prestigious Blade Magazine Knife of the Year Awards, celebrating design, quality, and functionality of blades tools. Beyond its role as a direct to consumer marketplace, Blade Show Atlanta fosters a vibrant community where enthusiasts, collectors, and professionals can connect, share knowledge, and celebrate their passion for quality gear. You can check out a full list of vendors, show details, and purchase tickets, here. The Garnet Goblin There’s a real “What will they think of next?” quality to reading about the latest releases from Arcanaut. The independent brand, founded in Denmark in 2015, with the first watches appearing (and sel...
Time+Tide
The Seiko Sportsmatic 5: A beloved daily-wearer since 1963
Born to adhere to five design elements, the Seiko 5 Sports watch has been a go-to starter, daily-wearer watch for over 6 decades.The post The Seiko Sportsmatic 5: A beloved daily-wearer since 1963 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
12 of the best GMT watches for tracking the time all around the globe
Being able to track multiple time zones at once is both practical and romantic - here are some of the best watches that can.The post 12 of the best GMT watches for tracking the time all around the globe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Burgundy Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph and its Fascinating Minerva Movement
Montblanc and luxury fountain pens are practically synonyms, so when the brand launched its first watch collection in 1997, it named it after one of its famous pens, the Meisterstück. However, a recognisable name doesn’t translate into watchmaking credentials. To prove that watchmaking was going to be taken seriously, in 2007, Montblanc bought the Minerva […]
Time+Tide
The Yema Granvelle CMM.20 is the French brand’s entry into the shaped watch trend
The Granvelle departs from the brand's usual dive aesthetic, with a shapely tribute to palatial arches.The post The Yema Granvelle CMM.20 is the French brand’s entry into the shaped watch trend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – Bell & Ross Releases the New BR-03 Diver Lum Outline
Bell & Ross, with its extensive range of highly graphic pilots’ watches inspired by cockpit instruments, consolidated its identity with the BR-01 and BR-03 references (and subsequent derivations). Moving from high-altitude missions to underwater adventures, in 2017, Bell & Ross adapted its archetypal “circle in a square” aesthetic to create the BR-03 Diver, a 300m […]
SJX Watches
Up Close: Breguet Classique Souscription
Breguet got off to a good start for its 250th anniversary with the Classique Souscription, which despite being not an entirely new model in technical terms, is arguably the best watch the brand has launched in years, perhaps reflecting the influence of a new chief executive. Powered by a calibre based on the longstanding Tradition movement, the one-handed Classique Souscription marries an atypical (for Breguet) 20th century case with a dial inspired by 19th century pocket watches – resulting in a surprisingly coherent creation that still feels quintessentially Breguet. Initial thoughts I was pleasantly surprised by the Classique Souscription. Breguet managed to take a familiar model and transform it into something different and appealing. The brand didn’t manage to do the same with the second anniversary model, which is essentially a rehash of the Tradition but with an enamel dial. Sized just right, the Classique Souscription feels like it was conceived by an enthusiast with knowledge of vintage watches; the red leather-covered presentation box underlines that. The design is simple overall, but enhanced with details like a sharply finished single hand and “secret signature” engraved the old fashion way. The form of the case is clearly early to mid 20th century, while the dial evokes the original Souscription pocket watch. Although the case and dial styles are 150 years apart, they complement each other almost perfectly; the result still looks very much like a Breg...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Rolex Daytona “Turquoise Blue” Ref. 126518LN
At Watches & Wonders 2025, all eyes were on Rolex. But the polarising Land-Dweller grabbed most of the headlines, relegating new versions of existing models, including the mighty Cosmograph Daytona Turquoise Blue ref. 126518LN, to second billing. Regardless, the Daytona remains one of the most iconic watches in the industry and its inherent quality makes any new version worthy of a close look. In this case, those who probed the depths of the Rolex catalogue were rewarded with the unusual combination of an 18k yellow gold case and a turquoise lacquer “Stella” dial. (And those lucky enough would have seen the “off-catalogue” Daytona ref. 126538TBR with an actual turquoise stone dial and diamond-set case.) Initial thoughts Let’s just say this was not love at first sight. I initially found this new colourway overly garish, but I am a sucker for turquoise, whether natural stone or, in this case, lacquer, so the look has grown on me over time. I think I’d have preferred a different treatment for the sub-dials, which to my eye dull the vibrancy of the turquoise, but this is a subjective critique of an objectively well-made watch. Dial colour aside, the new Daytona benefits from the model’s 60th anniversary updates rolled out two years ago, including the gold rim for the ceramic bezel. The case offers roughly ideal proportions for a sporty chronograph, 40 mm in diameter and around 12 mm thick. It also comes equipped with the brand’s rubberised Oysterflex bracelet, ...
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Introduces the Stealthy New BR-03 Diver Lum Outline
Love it or hate it, Bell & Ross is committed to their iconic, oversized, and squared-off designs. But despite what their haters say, they don’t just do squares. Or rather, they layer other shapes over squares sometimes. Confused? Good. Let’s get into it. The brand’s popular BR-03 Diver platform is home to a healthy handful of references, all of which measure in at 42mm in diameter, and feature the brand’s classic “circle within a square” design that varies in color and material between models. Basically, the iconic Bell & Ross square case remains, with a diver’s bezel laying on top, giving each model a stacked, utilitarian aesthetic. The design is effectively functional and deeply polarizing, as is B&R;’s forte. Last year, the French brand began updating BR-03 Diver timepieces by introducing optimized changes to the movement and materials, ceramic bezels and inserts, and revised typeface, hands, and strap designs. The latest BR-03 Diver release, the Lum Outline, is perhaps the most emblematic of the line’s emphasis on functionality and capability without sacrificing stylistic panache. The Lum Outline’s case, bezel, dial, and strap options-one rubber, and the other black synthetic fabric-are all a uniform matte black. Normally, I would say that this is tame or even boring, but the micro-blasted texture of the ceramic gives the watch a more interesting and layered look than a monochrome design usually would. The case is a solid 13.35mm thick, and...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Surprisingly Attainable Horage Autark Tourbillon
We’ve covered independent Swiss watchmaker Horage many times in the past few years, including several of its in-house movements from automatics to micro-rotors to tourbillons. The latest Autark Tourbillon separates itself as it’s truly a rare feat in watchmaking, combining a micro-rotor and tourbillon within the in-house K-TMR calibre. It’s all wrapped in Grade 5 […]
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
All the Panels of the Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025 and More!
The 2025 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco was one for the books. Thousands of attendees poured into the city’s vibrant Marina District for three days of hands-on horology, exclusive releases, and face time with the creators behind the brands we love. The energy was electric, and the programming only elevated what was already an unforgettable experience. Thanks to our sponsors, this year’s event reached new heights, with panels that brought depth, insight, and real-time connection to the forefront. Here are recordings of the full conversations that helped shape the weekend, plus some videos from our friends at Fortis and Bulova. Introducing the New Fortis Fliegers with the WERK 7 Manufacture Calibre The Fortis Flieger collection connects over 40 years of aviation heritage with the modern era. Redefined in collaboration with the Swiss Air Force, it stands as the most readable tool watch Fortis has ever crafted. This video goes into its new WERK 7 manufacture calibre with 70 hours of power reserve, as explained by Andreas Bentele, Marketing Manager at Fortis. Panel 1 – Making Watches for the Enthusiast vs. the Curious Worn & Wound’s Managing Editor Zach Kazan kicked off the programming with a lively conversation featuring Abingdon Mullin, CEO at Abingdon, Jonathan Ferrer, Designer & Founder at Brew, and Brandon Little, Founder & Designer at Artefkt. The panel explored how brands can speak to both hardcore collectors and casual newcomers-without diluting their voic...
Monochrome
The Collector's Series – An Italian Collector on His Bespoke OISA 1937 Watch, Marking the Return of Movements Made in Italy
It’s something we’ve told over and over again. Watchmaking isn’t only Swiss. Watchmaking is global and has, historically, been present all over the world. Surely, with industrialisation and the effects of the Quartz crisis, three giant hubs have emerged: Switzerland for high-end watches, Japan with its immense conglomerates and China, the silent factory… Italy surely […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Monceau Model 01 Revives A Historic Swiss Name
We all know that there are tons of brands that are dormant or defunct that are deserving of a revival, and a number of those are actually being brought back through passion and perseverance. One brand to add to that list is Monceau, a once-respected Swiss watchmaking name now in the hands of Simon Ryan. […]
WatchAdvice
Breitling Top Time Martini Racing Review: A Winning Partnership
The Breitling Top Time Martini Racing is a stylish tribute to the brand’s motorsport heritage, blending retro 1960s design with the iconic flair of Martini Racing, and here is how it performs in the modern-day watch world… What We Love The vibrant colours and dial stand out on the wrist A super easy-wearing watch thanks to its dimensions and lightness A great If You Know, You Know (IYKYK) collaboration What We Don’t The 38mm size wears on the smaller side, and may not suit larger wrists The domed crystal does distort the tachymeter scale on the outer section of the dial Start function on the chronograph is a little stiffer than expected Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Two Brands, One Shared Passion Normally when watch brands embark on collaborations with companies or brands outside the watch world, there is normally a pre-existing association in place. Usually through a sponsorship of an event, or partnership with a movie, that kind of thing. However, with the new Breitling Top Time Martini Racing, this is not quite the case. What it is, however, is a partnership based on a shared passion – Motorsport. Interestingly, neither Breitling nor Martini Racing are motoring brands either. Before you say, “But Martini Racing is one of the most iconic motorsports brands out there!” to which you are right, I’ll preface that statement. Martini Racing is part of Martini & Rossi, the alcohol brand base...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
California Coast Through Film & Time: A Road Trip with Kat Shoulders, Fujifilm, and Citizen’s Unite with Blue Collection
A few weeks ago, I set out on a road trip along one of my favorite stretches of the world: the California coast. It was more than just a drive down Highway 1 - it was a journey to see the coastline in a new way, through the lenses of two amazing Fujifilm medium format cameras and a special Citizen Promaster that quietly echoed the whole vibe. Right after the Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, I (and my BFF) hit the road and headed south down Highway 1, taking in some of the dreamiest towns California has to offer. Monterey, Piedras Blancas, Big Sur, Morro Strand, SLO, Pismo Beach, Solvang, Santa Barbara… It’s wild how the vibe shifts even though you’re basically hugging the same coast the whole time. Like, how is this all the same state? This feels like sorcery somehow. But before we go full travel diary, let me talk about the gear. Because yes, this trip had a theme: film & time. The post California Coast Through Film & Time: A Road Trip with Kat Shoulders, Fujifilm, and Citizen’s Unite with Blue Collection appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Hands-on – A Personal Take on the Tudor Black Bay Pro Polar, From a Fan of the Explorer II
Here, at MONOCHROME, we write about watches. That’s our job. However, before that became what we do on a daily basis, we all shared a sheer passion for watches, with, of course, our personal preferences. Our founder, Frank, is well known to be a fan of independent watchmakers and monochromatic watches (obviously…) I, for instance, […]
Worn & Wound
Ianos Completes their Dive Watch Trilogy: A Conversation with Founder Jacob Hatzidimitriou on the Brand’s Origins and the New Dytis Diver
One of the more interesting trends to crop up in recent years is the rise in ultra specific niche watches. If you’re part of seemingly almost any community or culture, there’s probably a watch just for you. Really into early 80s rally cars? Autodromo has you covered. Do you love Jurassic Park and hand-lacquered dials? Awake has a watch you might want to check out. And if you happen to be of Greek heritage, or just love the country and its culture, Jacob Hatzidimitriou’s watches made under the Ianos banner will be of interest for sure. Ianos is interesting because in addition to being a design forward independent brand making dive watches (table stakes these days), they are pulling on a very specific aspect of diving history as it relates to Greek culture. Diving, like pizza, cars, and architecture, has distinct characteristics dependent on geography and purpose. Sponge diving has been a pursuit in Greece for literally thousands of years, and the techniques, history, and visual language of this very specific type diving has informed every Ianos watch in some way to this point in the brand’s history (you can read our coverage of previous Ianos releases here and here). “Watches always intrigued me, not just as accessories but as expressions of personality,” Jacob told me in an interview. “Over time, I started to see them for what they really are: miniature, intricate machines that, more than anything, carry significant emotional weight. In an age of fast fashi...
Monochrome
Portrait – Finnish Indie Watchmaker Pietari Kupias On The Launch Of His Atelier, And His Katedraali Watch
Voutilainen, Sarpaneva, Laine… Just three names coming from Finland that have made an impact on independent watchmaking the world over. But it doesn’t end there, as recently we’ve uncovered young and exciting Finnish watchmakers like Kortela Valta and Reima Koivukoski. And there seems to be something special in the water in the “Land of a […]
Deployant
New: Leica ZM1 and ZM2 Urban Green
Leica presents a new colour for their ZM1 and ZM2 collection - now in Urban Green with a fumé noir dial which fades from green to black.
Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Bolshoi Reviewed by Time Mosso: the Blue Fired-Enamel Dial is a Game Changer
Any watch combining “Russia” and “Audemars Piguet Code 11.59” has an uphill battle on its hands. On both counts, there’s more to recommend this watch than the premise suggests, and while the Code 11.59 has had more than its fair share of detractors, this one deserves a champion.
Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier give enthusiasts what they want, expanding the Riviera range with panda dials and a flyback chrono
A flyback chronograph makes a return to the Riviera range, and for the first time ever, we also get a Riviera Chrono with a panda dial.The post Baume & Mercier give enthusiasts what they want, expanding the Riviera range with panda dials and a flyback chrono appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Gunsmith Dewey Vicknair Returns with Second Handmade Watch
A year ago, we covered a self-taught watchmaker who built his first piece by watch, Dewey Vicknair. Now the American gunsmith has completed his second watch, a regulator with a jump hour function that’s once again hand-made. He published a comprehensive photo essay detailing the steps in manufacturing the watch, which is a worthwhile read for anyone interested in a contemporary, yet fully manual watchmaking process. Initial thoughts The story of Mr. Vicknair is unlike most independent watchmakers. Now in his mid-fifties, he long ago built his reputation as a maker and restorer of firearms before turning to watchmaking. Self-taught, Mr. Vicknair is definitely a quick study; he adapted his metal-working skills to horology and produced his first watch swiftly. Even more interesting, perhaps, is the way he creates his own tooling. From a vertical drill press to various cutters and even custom tweezers for bending the hairspring overcoil, Mr. Vicknair seems able to build any tool to cater to his requirements. Artisanal watchmakers usually use restored vintage machines when making watches, but it is very rare that they develop the tools themselves. Mr. Vicknair’s extensive experience as a gunsmith gives him an excellent understanding of machinery that cannot simply be taught in watchmaking schools. His work is clearly that of a very talented mechanical craftsman who just happens to have mastered watchmaking – after having mastered gunsmithing. The watch itself is pre...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Unimatic And Henry Singer Announce The Mechanical Modello Tre U3S-HS
The first mechanical chronograph to be publicly offered by Unimatic is a collaboration with Canadian menswear retailer Henry Singer.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Best Affordable Watch Brands
When new enthusiasts enter the wide world of watches, most will lean into more affordable options as a way to limit financial commitment in an as-yet unproven pursuit. But given the incredible breadth of the watch industry in terms of price, styles, and brands, it can be difficult to know where to start when looking to craft a more affordable collection. Here, we’ll provide a primer on some of the best affordable watch brands in the industry. This is, of course, not to say we’re looking at the cheapest brands or watches, a list that would reveal a curb-worthy selection of direct-to-consumer brands we’ve all been advertised on YouTube. We’re looking for true value here, brands that make watches that distinguish themselves as being especially great for their respective price points. Of course, value and the entire concept of attainability are also subjective, and we won’t pretend that living a life where being able to responsibly buy the functionally-unnecessary watches you want at any price point is anything other than a privilege. Moving on, and to put some parameters around it, we’ll focus on brands with a wide selection of models that fall under the $1,000 price point, with special emphasis on brands with strong offerings below $500. We already have a detailed list of microbrand watches to check out right here, so we’ll omit microbrands for the purposes of this list. With all of that out of the way, we will strive to compile a list of brands that appeal t...
Worn & Wound
Longines Celebrates 100 Years of Dual Time Zone Watches with the Spirit Zulu Time 1925
Longines continues to expand their Zulu Time collection with the new Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925. Never one to shy away from an anniversary, the latest version of the Longines travel watch celebrates the 100th anniversary of the brand’s first watch to display dual time zones. These early dual time zone watches featured colorful representations of maritime flags referencing the letter “Z”, a nod to the time at the zero meridian in Greenwich. The “Z” designation ultimately led to pilots referencing “Zulu time” when referring to time at the zero meridian, an important concept when traveling across time zones. The modern renditions of the Zulu Time watches are completely distinct from their historical counterparts in terms of their design and aesthetics, but for Longines their intent seems to be to recreate the adventurous spirit of those watches in a modern package. All of the Zulu Time watches to this point have straddled the line between a clear vintage inspiration and contemporary design tropes, resulting in watches that have a classic everyday appeal. Last year, I reviewed the Spirit Zulu Time Titanium, which simply by virtue of the material used felt like the most contemporary iteration of the Zulu Time yet. I really enjoyed my time with that watch and felt that Longines really nailed the proportions, with a case just under 40mm that was also not too long from lug to lug. The new 1925 version of the Zulu Time is perhaps best thought of as the inverse o...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Angelus Chronographe Télémètre, The Brand’s Latest and Stunning Monopusher
For a retro-styled chronograph, the beauty lies in mechanical and historical details. With the new Chronographe Télémètre, Angelus again reaches into its storied archives to recreate the past and distil its essence into a remarkably fresh and undeniably refined timepiece. The latest addition to the La Fabrique collection, the Chronographe Télémètre debuts in three variations: […]