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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

6 of the best women’s watches of 2018 Time+Tide
Jul 2, 2019

6 of the best women’s watches of 2018

Half a decade ago, Time+Tide published a story, citing that by 2020 there would be more female millionaires in Britain than male, leaving it to the brands to respond to this shift. As we also mentioned here, women’s watches are so often an afterthought from brands, typically taking a men’s model and either shrinking it down … ContinuedThe post 6 of the best women’s watches of 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

If you’re interested in Geneva Seal standard watchmaking, this Louis Vuitton ‘high watch collection’ wants to meet you Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton high watch collection’ wants Jul 1, 2019

If you’re interested in Geneva Seal standard watchmaking, this Louis Vuitton ‘high watch collection’ wants to meet you

Louis Vuitton, the watchmaker. As time goes on, this statement is gaining credibility and intrigue. And intrigue is certainly the word I would use to describe this shoot, which involved the Time+Tide team flying to Queenstown in New Zealand with Louis Vuitton to explore the brand’s high watch collection 2019. The setting was, sparing all … ContinuedThe post If you’re interested in Geneva Seal standard watchmaking, this Louis Vuitton ‘high watch collection’ wants to meet you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: Our favourite watches of Only Watch 2019 Time+Tide
Jul 1, 2019

LIST: Our favourite watches of Only Watch 2019

The eighth edition of Only Watch is underway, with the release of the unique pieces offered by the 50 brand partners. After raising 40 million Swiss francs in the last seven editions, Only Watch is one of the most important charity auctions on the calendar, with Only Watch raising money for research into muscular dystrophy. … ContinuedThe post LIST: Our favourite watches of Only Watch 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 369-Year Old Watch in Mint Condition SJX Watches
Patek Philippe from Jul 1, 2019

The 369-Year Old Watch in Mint Condition

A “new old stock” Rolex or Patek Philippe from the 1950s is a marvel. So this Jehan Cremsdorff pocket watch – which was made around 1650, making it almost 370 years old – is miraculous. So incredible is the Cremsdorff that for pocket watch collectors, the last time it was sold was a landmark event; the watch was the “Bao Dai” or “Paul Newman” or Grandmaster Chime “Only Watch” of the 1980s. Part of the epic collection of pocket watches owned by a late German billionaire, which also includes the George Daniels Space Traveller I, the Cremsdorff watch is an incredible object that has been mysteriously well preserved over the centuries, with only minimal restoration to the enamel. Though little is known about him, Jehan Cremsdorff was a watchmaker active in Paris during the late 17th century. Its immensely elaborate enamel work indicates Cremsdorff probably made the watch for a royal or noble client; the identity of the original owner is lost to time, but the watch came from Sweden when it was first sold publicly. Made of thin sheets of gold, the case is entirely enamelled, inside and out, an artistic accomplishment that was done by a now unknown Parisian enameller. The outer case is decorated with champleve and relief enamel, forming a remarkably intricate and vivid flower motif. And for good measure the outer case is also set with diamonds on both sides. The inside faces of the case are finished in a brilliant turquoise enamel that’s been...

Dialled in – the 10 most interesting watch dials of 2018 Time+Tide
Jul 1, 2019

Dialled in – the 10 most interesting watch dials of 2018

As we naturally personify the objects we come into contact with, the hour and minute indicators on a watch become articulating hands, and the dial becomes a face. Just as we will closely study the faces of the people around us, we search for meaning in the faces of our watches as we read the … ContinuedThe post Dialled in – the 10 most interesting watch dials of 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 3 faces of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Master Ultra Thin Enamel collection Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre s new Master Ultra Jun 30, 2019

The 3 faces of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Master Ultra Thin Enamel collection

A few weeks ago we spent some quality time with a few friends and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s latest Master Ultra Thin pieces, with eye-catching guilloché enamel dials. Well, before the watches were locked away for the evening in their display cases, we took the opportunity to get up close and personal with these beauties.  Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra … ContinuedThe post The 3 faces of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Master Ultra Thin Enamel collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Doubling down on two-tone – the Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G; Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G; Jun 29, 2019

Doubling down on two-tone – the Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G;

Two years can be a long time in the life of a product – long enough for it to go from controversial to comfortably accepted, or even loved, as its challenging elements become softened by familiarity. That’s certainly true for two of the watches introduced by Tudor in 2017, which attracted attention and controversy in … ContinuedThe post Doubling down on two-tone – the Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G; appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is the Omega 1957 Trilogy Railmaster better than the original? Time+Tide
Omega 1957 Trilogy Railmaster better Jun 28, 2019

Is the Omega 1957 Trilogy Railmaster better than the original?

Editor’s note: It’s an tricky question, but the new Railmaster makes a compelling case for the ‘yes’ camp …  Yesterday, we showed you the Seamaster Railmaster, a modern incarnation of the classic professional model. But it wasn’t the only Railmaster released last year. No, there’s also this watch, the limited edition 60th anniversary commemorative watch … ContinuedThe post Is the Omega 1957 Trilogy Railmaster better than the original? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko vs. Garmin – who will survive an ultramarathon? Time+Tide
Seiko vs Garmin – who Jun 28, 2019

Seiko vs. Garmin – who will survive an ultramarathon?

One of the most beautiful elements of the mechanical watch is it doesn’t rely on disposable units of lithium to function. If you keep moving, your watch will too. This forms a dependent partnership that for many collectors is a huge emotional attraction to the mechanical watch. The energy from your fingertips directly transfers power … ContinuedThe post Seiko vs. Garmin – who will survive an ultramarathon? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Franck Muller Gravity Skeleton  Time+Tide
Franck Muller Jun 28, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Franck Muller Gravity Skeleton 

Architectural is a word that gets thrown around a lot in watch writing, and when you look at a watch like this Franck Muller Gravity Skeleton you can see why. The clear, expansive view provided allows the wearer to look down at a tiny, and industrious city, busily whirring away.  And if we continue the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Franck Muller Gravity Skeleton  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Don’t stare into the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept Time+Tide
Ming Jun 28, 2019

Don’t stare into the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept

Like all good stories filled with plot and intrigue, this one involves acquiring a pressure testing machine, and the decision to design a dive watch with it. Just like that, the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept was born. In case you’re not familiar with Ming, they’re a relatively young brand that’s been making a lot of … ContinuedThe post Don’t stare into the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The 2019 Montblanc 1858 releases go back to nature  Time+Tide
Montblanc 1858 releases go back Jun 27, 2019

VIDEO: The 2019 Montblanc 1858 releases go back to nature 

When Montblanc’s 1858 collection burst onto the scene back in 2015 it heralded a bold new direction for the brand, adding a no-nonsense, outdoorsy sensibility to what had, until that point, been a fairly buttoned-up collection of watches.  Since that initial drop, the 1858 has gone from strength to strength, and their 2019 slate of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The 2019 Montblanc 1858 releases go back to nature  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Mixing business with pleasure in the form of the Longines Record in steel and gold Time+Tide
Longines Record Jun 26, 2019

Mixing business with pleasure in the form of the Longines Record in steel and gold

Just the other day, Sandra was opining about the changing face of two-tone, and today this fine example of modern bi-colour watches hits the proverbial desk. The Record collection is Longines’ line of dressy daily wearers that offer a great entry point into some pretty serious mechanical watchmaking. And that’s because every single watch in the … ContinuedThe post Mixing business with pleasure in the form of the Longines Record in steel and gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Leap year? No worries – 3 celebrities rocking the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G Jun 26, 2019

Leap year? No worries – 3 celebrities rocking the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G was unveiled at Baselworld 2018 to much fanfare, as it marked the debut of the perpetual calendar complication in the iconic Gérald Genta-designed watch. It still retains its signature looks, with the embossed blue dial, integrated bracelet and 40mm size. It’s also got a pleasing degree of heft … ContinuedThe post Leap year? No worries – 3 celebrities rocking the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Your watch is dirtier than your toilet  Time+Tide
Jun 26, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Your watch is dirtier than your toilet 

Oh ye of sensitive stomachs, look away now. In a story published in the Daily Mail (yeah, we know it’s dodge - but the headline was just too irresistible), your precious watch is home to a host of germs, bacteria and other assorted disgustingness.  In research (and I suspect it wasn’t peer reviewed), it was … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Your watch is dirtier than your toilet  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Peculiar economics of the vintage watch market Time+Tide
Jun 25, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Peculiar economics of the vintage watch market

The watch auction market has hit serious momentum over the last four or five years, with record-breaking results being produced every season. While a portion of the soaring prices can be attributed to macro factors - such as democratised information on vintage watches through the explosion of sites that cover the topic - this isn’t the whole … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Peculiar economics of the vintage watch market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms that tells the story of the frogmen who used them Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Jun 25, 2019

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms that tells the story of the frogmen who used them

Editor’s note: The Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC, aside from being a damn good-looking dive watch, serves as a reminder that brands can reissue mid-century military watches without breaking the internet. We thought we’d take a look back at this Blancpain Fifty Fathoms tribute, which tells the story of when watches were specially designed … ContinuedThe post The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms that tells the story of the frogmen who used them appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ventura Returns with the V-Matic Ego SJX Watches
Nomos Zurich Jun 25, 2019

Ventura Returns with the V-Matic Ego

Watch collectors who were around in the late 1990s and early 2000s would remember Ventura. It specialised in – literally – design watches. All its timepieces were created by noted industrial designers, including Flemming Bo Hansen and more frequently, Hannes Wettstein, who also designed the Nomos Zurich. The house style was sleek, pared back, slightly Scandinavian, but also distinguished by unusual materials – Ventura made liberal use of surfaced hardened titanium (Titanox) and steel (Durinox), a great novelty at the time. The Ventura V-Matic Ego remake But the brand made a pivot into high-end, self-winding electronic watches in the early 2000s, which unsurprisingly ended in Ventura going bust. Now Ventura is being resurrected by its former owner, UK-based watch importer Zeon Ltd (that’s in turn owned by a Hong Kong watch manufacturer), in partnership with Stephan Hürlemann, the designer who took over Wettstein’s studio after his death. I liked very much what Ventura was doing back in the day – the combination of design and materials was unique – but the original watches were surprisingly expensive, particularly by the standards of the time. The new remakes manage to reproduce the original design in a similar alloy, at a notably affordable price. Designer watches for less The revived Ventura sticks to a tried and tested sales formula: direct to the consumer via crowdfunding platform Kickstarter, making the new Ventura watches notably affordable, s...

RECOMMENDED READING: Can you get rich from collecting watches? Time+Tide
Jun 24, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Can you get rich from collecting watches?

While antique categories such as art, furniture and artefacts have long been recognised as stores of value, watches are a relative newcomer to the game of “buy low, sell high”. And this poses an interesting question – can watches help you get rich? It seems like every auction season, old records are broken, and new … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Can you get rich from collecting watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph to celebrate The Hour Glass’ 40th anniversary Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Jun 24, 2019

INTRODUCING: An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph to celebrate The Hour Glass’ 40th anniversary

It’s a truism to say that the watch industry loves an anniversary, and while mostly it’s the watch brands doing the celebrating, this time it is a retailer celebrating the big 4-0. Boy, are they celebrating in style.  The Hour Glass is one of the major retail figures in the Asia-Pacific region, with more than … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph to celebrate The Hour Glass’ 40th anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: 7 watches to check out at Melbourne Watch Week Time+Tide
Glashütte Original Jun 24, 2019

LIST: 7 watches to check out at Melbourne Watch Week

For the second year running, Breguet, Blancpain, Jaquet Droz and Glashütte Original - The Swatch Group’s top-tier brands - are showcasing their latest and greatest at Melbourne retailer Monards Crown boutique.  Melbourne Watch Week, as it’s called, is running from June 20 to 30 (slightly longer than a week, but who’s counting). It’s a great … ContinuedThe post LIST: 7 watches to check out at Melbourne Watch Week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Navitimer 01 – 43mm Edition Review WatchAdvice
Breitling Navitimer 01 – 43mm Jun 23, 2019

Breitling Navitimer 01 – 43mm Edition Review

“An all-time favourite among pilots and aeronautical enthusiasts since 1952” – Breitling If you have ever been on the look out for a pilot’s watch, whether being a pilot yourself or just having pure admiration for the workings of pilot watch then the Breitling Navitimer has to be up there at the top of the list.  Breitling has a variation of models in the Navitimer range, with sizes ranging from 38mm all the way to 48mm. The model we have in our hands today is the Navitimer 01 version in 43mm diameter. This Navitimer is the previous edition to the current Navitimer 1 B01 Chronograph in 43mm diameter. The two models are relatively unchanged with the new model getting a facelift logo on the dial and the addition of a sapphire crystal case back for the first time on a 43mm to showcase the B01 movement. At first glance the dial does look super busy. But there’s a reason why everything is the way it is.  When the Navitimer was launched in the 1950’s it was considered one of the most practical tool watches made available for Pilots. It’s no wonder then that the Navitimer was endorsed as the official timekeeping instrument of the “Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA)”. With only a few minor updates the navitimer has remained unchanged, with Breitling even going on to claim that this is the only wristwatch that has a chronograph function that is in continuous production for more than 50 years. So what exactly is the features present in the Navitimer d...

RECOMMENDED READING: This is what Kanye’s go-to art guy thinks of Breguet Time+Tide
Breguet Breguet - as we Jun 23, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: This is what Kanye’s go-to art guy thinks of Breguet

Breguet - as we discovered last week - is a pretty classic brand. Heck, they’ve even got a line called the Classique. So when we saw a story on what Wes Lang - controversial American contemporary artist and collaborative creative to the stars - thought of the buttoned-up brand, you can bet we hit the … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: This is what Kanye’s go-to art guy thinks of Breguet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The ultimate watch glossary – advanced edition. Beat rates, pallets and more Time+Tide
Jun 22, 2019

The ultimate watch glossary – advanced edition. Beat rates, pallets and more

Editor’s note: If you missed instalments one and two of our glossary, you might want to quickly check them out, because now we’re in part three, we’re starting to get a little more technical. We’re moving beyond the basic parts and starting to explore how they operate together. Tick tock. Escapement The escapement is a … ContinuedThe post The ultimate watch glossary – advanced edition. Beat rates, pallets and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Green, lean and not at all mean – Hublot’s Classic Fusion Titanium Green Time+Tide
Hublot s Classic Fusion Titanium Jun 21, 2019

Green, lean and not at all mean – Hublot’s Classic Fusion Titanium Green

Editor’s note: For all that Hublot is a name strongly associated with big, bold colours (and rightly so, might we add), they’re not afraid to show their more subtle side on occasion. Take, for example, this Classic Fusion Titanium Greed – what a dial! This week we’re looking at Hublot watches that aren’t the Big … ContinuedThe post Green, lean and not at all mean – Hublot’s Classic Fusion Titanium Green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.