Deployant
Quick visit: Akrivia studios in Geneva
We visited the atelier of Akrivia's Rexhep Rexhepi. Tucked in the hills of the old town Geneva, here is a picture of how the work is done.
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SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition
Omega has just revealed the watch that will be strapped to the wrist of 007 in No Time To Die, Daniel Craig’s fifth movie playing James Bond that will open in April 2020. Developed with the actor’s input – he apparently likes vintage watches – the Seamaster Diver 300M 007 draws inspiration from vintage British military-issue watches, while offering modern functionality with a lightweight titanium case and high-spec movement. And unlike the James Bond editions to date – of which there are many – this is part of the regular collection. “When working with Omega, we decided that a lightweight watch would be key for a military man like 007,” says Mr Craig, quoted in the announcement for the watch, “I also suggested some vintage touches and colour to give the watch a unique edge.” Very vintage Worn on a mesh bracelet in the film but also available on a NATO strap, the watch is a 42mm Seamaster Diver 300M that’s entirely in titanium, bracelet included. But the styling goes all out – to the extreme – in being faux vintage. The dial and bezel insert are made of anodised aluminium in a dark brown to replicate the “tropical” look of vintage watches. According to Omega, the aluminium parts will fade over time – albeit over decades rather than years – for a bona fide tropical look. And the hands, numerals and indices are filled with eggshell-coloured Super-Luminova to mimic the appearance of radium “lume” on vintage watches. Military issue and prou...
Hodinkee
Photo Report: Dubai Watch Week
A relatively small watch fair in Dubai is becoming a very big deal.
Hodinkee
Happenings: NASA Engineer Evan Hilgemann To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
Science fiction meets spacecraft technology with a clockwork rover on the surface of Venus.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: MB&F; LM Thunderdome Triple-Axis Tourbillon
The flying tourbillon wristwatch for women – the Legacy Machine FlyingT – that MB&F; launched last year foreshadowed its latest watch – the Legacy Machine Thunderdome, boasting the fastest ever triple-axis tourbillon developed by independent watchmaker Eric Coudray. No doubt multi-axis tourbillons are hardly new, especially after Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled its first Gyrotourbillon in 2005 – which was also developed by Mr Coudray – but the LM Thunderdome takes the concept further by every metric, primarily by building on past ideas to achieve higher cage velocities than ever before. Most intriguingly, the Thunderdome movement incorporates a tourbillon lever escapement first devised by Albert H. Potter – a talented American watchmaker who worked in Geneva in the late 19th century – as well as an unusual multi-axis tourbillon that utilises a carrousel for its outermost cage, christened the TriAx. The ingenious construction of the tourbillon is thanks to Mr Coudray, who now runs complications workshop TEC Ebauches and is best known for the numerous exotic tourbillon movements he has developed. After his two-decades at Jaeger-LeCoultre where he became the resident technical genius, Mr Coudray worked for several brands of varying levels of credibility, including at Cabestan where he perfected its vertical tourbillon, and more recently at Cecil Purnell, where he created the Spherion tri-axial tourbillon, which has a similar construction to the Thunderdome. Besides...
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Episode 68: The Lange Odysseus, The Sartorialist India, And The Watch That Came In From The Cold
Writing new chapters, tellings others' stories, and digging up the past.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 01 Laughing Skull White
While skull watches are very much today’s fad, Bell & Ross’ use of the Jolly Roger started a decade ago with the BR 01 Skull, with its square watch case being a perfect frame for a bony visage. The brand’s skull watches have proliferated since then, but the evolution had been purely cosmetic, until last year when the brand unveiled a watch as elaborate mechanically as it is aesthetically – the BR 01 Laughing Skull, powered by a proprietary movement with a simple automaton of a skull that opens and closes it jaw. And this year, B&R; has introduced the BR 01 Laughing Skull White, with the skull finished in a bone-like lacquer. Distinctive face Like all BR-01 watches, the case is 46mm wide, but it is a tad thicker than the static skull watches at 13.5mm high, but that’s a functional requirement, a result of the automaton on the movement. In short, it is a large watch, but that’s exactly the point. The case is sandblasted steel and is decorated with stamped hobnails on the top surface and case back, giving it a pronounced, distinctive character. And it is worth noting the unusual finish of the skull would work quite well with a case in bronze, a material that B&R; has used liberally in the past and will probably continue to. The dial features a photo-realistic appliqué skull that’s been stamped out of brass, and then painted matte off-white with shading to create shadow and depth. The result is striking – at a distance, the skull is seemingly projecting out o...
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Heritage Centre Seconds Funky Blue
A year ago, H. Moser & Cie. debuted the Heritage Pilot’s Watch, a retro, aviation-inspired watch with grey fumé dial for Swiss retailer Bucherer that was then a one-off unlike anything else in the brand’s line-up. Now the watch has officially joined the collection as the Heritage Centre Seconds Funky Blue, positioned as an entry-level model priced under US$14,000. The watch has a familiar design, for good reason: it’s modelled on early pilot’s watches from the 1920s that were produced by a host of brands including Longines and Zenith, and also Heinrich Moser, the predecessor of H. Moser & Cie. At the same time, according to Moser chief executive Edouard Meylan, the Heritage watch takes some inspiration from early 20th century wristwatches that were converted pocket watches with wire lugs soldered on for wear on the wrist. While the Heritage measures 42mm in diameter like a majority of Moser’s watches, it is just 11.1mm high, making it one of the brand’s slimmest models. Its stainless-steel case features an onion-shaped crown and thin lugs to mimic wire lugs. The case is largely polished, punctuated with fine, vertical fluting on its flanks, a detail taken from another watch in the Moser line-up, the Pioneer. The dial is a dark, metallic blue finished with sunburst brushing and the brand’s signature fumé treatment that gradually darkens towards the edges. But the most distinctive feature are the large Arabic numerals – modelled on the painted radium ...
SJX Watches
Cambodia’s First Watchmaking School Opens in Phnom Penh
One of Asia’s quickest growing economies, Cambodia remains a relatively small market for mechanical watches, but now boasts its own watchmaking school – led by a pair of former WOSTEP instructors – which will begin operations in mid 2020. Supported by a local real estate conglomerate, the Prince Horology Vocational Training Center will offer a full-time, two-year course in watchmaking. Totalling some 3,400 hours of training, the watchmaking course will be comprehensive and modelled on the education offered by Swiss watchmaking schools. Designed by a team that includes a former director of WOSTEP, Switzerland’s leading watchmaking school, the course includes watchmaking history and culture, toolmaking and maintenance, repair and servicing of both mechanical and quartz watches, as well as some parts production. Filled with brand new equipment, the school is ready for its first students Located in the Chrouy Changvar district of central Phnom Penh, the country’s capital, the Prince Horology Vocational Training Center recently opened its premises, which are fully equipped with brand new benches and tools, giving students the opportunity to learn both watch repair as well as movement part production and finishing. The school’s leadership team includes Jessica Thakur, formerly an instructor at Richemont’s American watchmaking school in Texas and then at WOSTEP, as well as Maarten Pieters, who was the director of WOSTEP from 2002 to 2018. Prior to that, Mr Pieters ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers 'La Musique Du Temps' Collection (And Other New Pieces From Les Cabinotiers)
Vacheron Constantin announces 11 unique chiming watches all at once.
Revolution
Introducing the Vacheron Constantin La Musique du Temps Collection of Pièces Uniques
Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers department introduces a complete line up of one-off creations as part of their 2019 La Musique du Temps collection
Time+Tide
Italian influence in the Rolex Cellini collection
Editor’s note:Benvenuto Cellini was an Italian goldsmith and sculptor born in the last year of the 15th century, who would go on to become one of the most important precious metal workers of his time, finding employment with the royal families of Europe and the Vatican. It is this talented artisan who was the inspiration … ContinuedThe post Italian influence in the Rolex Cellini collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED WATCHING: How NASA tested the Omega Speedmaster
There is a plethora of watches out there with an equally large amount of claims. First watch with a date complication. First watch with a GMT complication. First waterproof watch. However, of all the watches on sale today, the coolest claim surely has to be: “The first watch worn on the moon.” I’m sure that … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: How NASA tested the Omega Speedmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Element Of Surprise: Omega Constellation And Seamaster Were Designed By René Bannwart, Founder Of Corum - Reprise
When writing 'Bridging Art and Mechanics: The Unabridged Story of the Corum Golden Bridge,' Elizabeth Doerr discovered much more about Corum’s artistic co-founder, René Bannwart, including the fact that he was the creator of Omega’s flagship Constellation and Seamaster lines.
Revolution
Timex Gets Groovy: Q Timex Falcon Eye 1978 Reissue
Between strangulation by political correctness and blanket conformity of our age, the Q Timex Falcon Eye is a gasp of air from a more laidback decade.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Heuer 02T Cortina Edition
Launched in 2016, the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02T remains the most affordable Swiss-made chronograph with touribllon, starting at just US$17,000. Despite the price, the Calibre Heuer 02T is an in-house movement that’s automatic, COSC-certified, and equipped with a lightweight flying tourbillon that has a carbon composite upper carriage and titanium base. The latest variant of the affordable “grand” complication is a limited edition made for Singapore retailer Cortina Watch. Dressed in orange and back, the Carrera Heuer 02T Cortina Edition is being offered only online, via the retailer’s website. As with the standard model, the case measures 45mm wide and 16.4mm high. It features the modular construction that characterises the Carrera line. The case middle is black-coated titanium paired with a black ceramic bezel, while the lugs, pushers and crown are steel. The dial is semi-skeletonised to reveal the grey, sandblasted base plate of the movement. Orange accents are applied to the dial and bezel, including the chronograph hands, and even the carbon composite upper cage of the tourbillon, creating a striking contrast with the black components. Mechanically the movement is identical to the standard Heuer 02T. Based on the CH-80 chronograph movement, it’s equipped with a column wheel and vertical clutch for the chronograph. And it has a 65-hour power reserve, with the balance running at a frequency of 4Hz. Key facts and price TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02T Cortina Edi...
Deployant
In Conversation: Hind Seddiqi at Dubai Watch Week
We caught up with Hind Seddiqi, Director General of the show and Chief Marketing & Communications Officer of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons at Dubai Watch Week.
Revolution
Trending: The Luxury Sports Watch in Steel
Contrary to its casual styling, it takes an enormous commitment of resources to create a stainless steel, integrated bracelet, luxury sports watch.
SJX Watches
Kikuchi Nakagawa Introduces the Murakumo White Dial
Unveiled last year as the debut product of Kikuchi Nakagawa, the Murakumo is modelled on the 1930s Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96, considered by its founders as the ideal classical men’s wristwatch. Originally available only with a matte black dial, Kikuchi Nakagawa has now unveiled its inverse – the Murakumo with white dial and black numerals. Black polishing Founded by a pair of Japanese watchmakers, Yusuke Kikuchi and Tomonari Nakagawa – with Mr Nakagawa having worked at Citizen as it developed the tourbillon – the brand is all about two things: components supplied by the very best Japanese specialists (save for the dial and movement), and exceptional black polishing of all the external steel parts. The three-dimensional hands are made by precision machine shop Yuki Precision, while the case and buckle are courtesy of Matsuura Works. The parts are all black polished by hand, creating a remarkably flat, mirror-like surface. With some Swiss help The dial on the other hand, comes from Swiss supplier Gilwatch, located in Geneva. Particular attention was paid to the printed numerals, which require several layers of pad printing in order to give them height. Also from Switzerland is the movement, which is a Vaucher VMF 5401. Though high quality in finish and construction – variants of the same calibre are used by Hermes, Richard Mille and Parmigiani – the movement is relatively pedestrian compared to the rest of the Murakumo. That being said, Kikuchi Nakagawa...
Time+Tide
Why did Dubai Watch Week invite a quantum physicist to speak?
Science is very boring. For most people at least, and Michael Biercuk, who works as a quantum physicist, is far from most people. In fact, the phrase “Only boring people get bored” goes a long way to explaining why (if you follow the syllogism) Michael is deeply interested in a highly technical area that causes … ContinuedThe post Why did Dubai Watch Week invite a quantum physicist to speak? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Ulysse Nardin Diver Deep Dive 'One More Wave' Limited Edition
Ulysee Nardin calls in support from a Navy SEAL.
Time+Tide
Watches of note worn by Robert De Niro in films
From vintage to modern, Robert De Niro has worn some interesting watches on screen.The post Watches of note worn by Robert De Niro in films appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Texas Special: Grand Seiko x Timeless SBGE249 Spring Drive GMT “Blizzard”
A blizzard in Texas? That would be the Grand Seiko x Timeless collaboration, the SBGE249 Spring Drive GMT.
Hodinkee
Recommended Reading: Watches & Pencils '60 Minutes' Book
A look at the watch world through 60 insightful illustrations.
Quill & Pad
4 New Watches From Dubai Watch Week 2019
In honor of the fourth edition of Dubai Watch Week 2019, several watch brands have issued limited edition timepieces. So without further ado, here we highlight four of the colorful limited editions seen at DWW 2019.
WatchAdvice
A week with IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire (Reference IW326802)
Released earlier this year at SIHH 2019, IWC’s latest collection of Spitfire pilots watches all feature for the first – time in-house manufactured calibres. With seven new references ranging from simple time-only functions, all the way to perpetual calendars, 2019 marked a significant year for the brand. Today, we’re taking a look at the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire, in bronze. Just a glance at the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire, and there’s no mistaking this bronze watches heritage, which draws inspiration from the original IWC Mark 11- a definitive Pilot’s watch, with legitimate military provenance. First Impressions If you’re on the hunt for a unique take on the iconic Pilot’s watch and want an in-house movement with impressive power-reserve, look no further. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire is a robust and well-proportioned take on the quintessential military classic. The Case The sandblasted bronze case serves up an interesting texture, and attractive take on bronze. The case is warm with a golden sheen, especially under sunlight, where it becomes quick playful with the light. As you might expect, the bronze case is designed to patina over time, and develop a distinctive look reflecting the owner’s wear pattern. The press piece provided was well worn, having already developed its own unique patina. And being bronze, after just a few weeks of wear, you’ll begin to notice the uniqueness and individuality present itself. The ...
Revolution
Tough as Nails: Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original 15th Anniversary
Ball Watch Company releases a tough dive chronometer to mark the 15th anniversary of its Engineer Hydrocarbon collection.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #151: The TBWS Q&A; Special Part 2!
This is all your fault. Due to popular demand, the snobs are extending their Q&A; sesh to an entirely new and dedicated episode. Hopefully you sick, horological voyeurs will finally be satisfied.
Quill & Pad
Montegrappa Tulip For Team Fox: Writing For Health
Montegrappa has joined forces with renowned Australian artist Timothy John to create an extraordinary pen whose proceeds go to support the Michael J. Fox Foundation in its fight against Parkinson’s disease. Martin Green shares his thoughts on the collaboration here.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Oris Star Wars 'Dark Side' Limited Edition Set (Live Pics + Pricing)
The force is strong with this one.