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The Urwerk UR-230 Goes Dark SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Dec 10, 2025

The Urwerk UR-230 Goes Dark

Urwerk’s latest satellite-display creation, the UR-230 Black Star, builds on more than two decades of the brand redefining the wandering hours complication. A concept first teased in the Harry Winston Opus 5 and later perfected in the UR-210, the retrograde-satellite display has become synonymous with Urwerk’s identity, and the Black Star demonstrates how far the idea has come. With a lightweight fibreglass-reinforced ceramic case, the Black Star is a 35-piece limited edition that looks to be the final instalment of the UR-230 series. Initial thoughts Urwerk didn’t invent the wandering hours display, but the brand deserves credit for dragging the complication into modernity in the late 1990s. While the brand has dabbled in watches with conventional hands, it’s still the satellite time display that carries the essence of Urwerk’s DNA. The UR-230 traces its roots back to the 2012 launch of the UR-210, which introduced the retrograde frame that travels with the satellite cube for hours. The concept for a retrograde hand paired with wandering hours dates back even further, to the 2005 launch of the Harry Winston Opus 5, which was also designed by Urwerk. While the concept has subsequently been elaborated with the UR-150 Scorpion, the UR-230 still looks strikingly advanced even after all these years. The latest black-and-yellow livery seems to be the flavour of the day, closely matching the brand’s recent collaboration with Ulysse Nardin. The signature detail of the...

Formex Doubles Down On Ceramic With The Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC “Dark Matter” 41mm Fratello
Formex Doubles Down Dec 10, 2025

Formex Doubles Down On Ceramic With The Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC “Dark Matter” 41mm

What do you do when you have a good thing going? You double down, of course! Formex spent years developing a ceramic Essence with best-in-class finishing and a first-ever ceramic micro-adjustable clasp. The Swiss brand fitted it with a skeletonized dial for its debut earlier this year. And then, Formex doubled down indeed. This September, […] Visit Formex Doubles Down On Ceramic With The Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC “Dark Matter” 41mm to read the full article.

First Look – The 2025 Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic Freeride World Tour Special Edition Monochrome
Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic Freeride Dec 10, 2025

First Look – The 2025 Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic Freeride World Tour Special Edition

For its ninth year partnering with Alpiner Extreme Automatic Freeride World Tour Special Edition (FWT), Alpina introduces a fresh take on the Alpiner Extreme Automatic, a model positioned at the intersection of traditional Swiss watchmaking and high-altitude sport. While the brand has long aligned itself with alpine culture, this Special Edition, housed in the compact version […]

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Worn & Wound
Bremont s Supermarine 500m Polar Dec 9, 2025

Holiday Lookbook: Cabin Couture Essentials with Bremont’s Supermarine 500m Polar

The Bremont Supermarine 500m Polar feels tailor-made for a holiday escape to the woods, starring an icy dial that echoes fresh snow, paired with the sort of rugged dependability you want when you’ve traded city noise for crackling logs and cold morning air. Its crisp, high-contrast aesthetic is unfussy and calming, the visual equivalent of that first deep breath you take after settling into a quiet, wood-paneled retreat. Whether you’re strumming a guitar by the fire or stepping out for a morning hike through frost-covered pines, the Supermarine 500m Polar is exactly the kind of companion you want on your wrist. Its 43mm case crafted from corrosion-resistant 904L stainless steel shrugs off bumps from thrown-together gear and cabin chores, while the robust 500 meters of water resistance gives you the confidence to take on whatever the terrain and weather decide to throw your way. This is a tool watch in its element… comfortable, capable, and never demanding attention.   The post Holiday Lookbook: Cabin Couture Essentials with Bremont’s Supermarine 500m Polar appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Five Watch Writing Cliches that We Need to Retire Worn & Wound
Dec 9, 2025

Five Watch Writing Cliches that We Need to Retire

According to Worn & Wound’s content management system, I’ve authored over 1,500 articles for this website. That’s a lot! A big percentage of those articles have been spent simply describing watches, and giving you my impressions and thoughts on how they succeed and fail in doing whatever it is they’re trying to do (besides keep time – that’s basically assumed going in). Over the course of 1,500 articles, I’m 100% positive that I’ve been guilty of using many of the watch writer cliches that all of us try to avoid. But it’s hard! There are only so many ways, after all, that you can communicate in writing that a particular color provides an accent on the dial, or that a bit of finishing is impressive but not mind blowing, or that the specs don’t tell the whole story of how a watch is experienced when you’re wearing it.  Over time, I’ve tried to mitigate the use of cliches by simply not writing about the things that are so obvious they fall into the realm of cliche. For example: if a watch has a red seconds hand, you can see that it has a red seconds hand in the photos. There’s no need for me to characterize the red as a “splash” or a “pop” or anything else. It’s there. You, the reader, are intelligent and can decide if you like it or not, whether it needs to be splashier or poppier. I try to give you my thoughts on the whole package, cohesively. If I have any! I have to admit, sometimes, a watch is just a watch to me. It can be a perfectly...

Best Solar-Powered Dive Watches For Every Budget Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 9, 2025

Best Solar-Powered Dive Watches For Every Budget

While solar-powered quartz technology has been around for decades, it’s still a relatively new innovation in the centuries-old watch world. I wouldn’t say the solar-powered revolution has fully arrived (especially as contemporary enthusiasts continue to find appeal in the craftsmanship of mechanical calibers in an increasingly digital world), but the technology has undoubtedly become more reliable and refined in recent years. The convenience and ease of being able to charge up your watch in both natural and artificial light sources, as well as the security of the long-lasting battery life, actually lend themselves well to more high-stakes and tactical situations. Riffing on that theme, I’ve scoured the watch industry for the best solar dive watches on the market. Down below, you’ll find what I believe to be the most compelling solar divers out there for your reading pleasure, offered at a wide range of price points so everyone can get in on the fun.  [toc-section heading="Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster Dive Titanium"] Case: 44mm, Material: Super Titanium, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Caliber: E168 Solar, Price: $575 It was Citizen who truly revolutionized the genre of solar-powered watches in the '90s. The brand was the very first to launch pieces that could power up with both sunlight and artificial light sources with the launch of its Eco-Drive technology, and it remains a leader in the category today. While Citizen has quite a number of solar-powered watches that...

Introducing – Kiwame Tokyo Launches its Second Collection, the IWAO Field Watches Monochrome
Kiwame Tokyo Dec 9, 2025

Introducing – Kiwame Tokyo Launches its Second Collection, the IWAO Field Watches

It’s only been a couple of months since we talked about Kiwame Tokyo, a new micro-brand from Japan with the goal of delivering “honest watchmaking from Asakusa” and “affordable Japanese watches.” The project of industry veteran Masami Watanabe, the brand started with an appealing Calatrava-inspired pair of watches offered at a fair price, the Kurotsuki […]

First Look – COSC x Ceramic x Meteorite… Meet the Formex Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Monochrome
Formex Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Dec 9, 2025

First Look – COSC x Ceramic x Meteorite… Meet the Formex Essence Ceramica Dark Matter

Celebrating its 25th anniversary, Formex continues to excite while exploring materials and mechanical substance with the new Essence Ceramica Dark Matter, a watch that fuses the brand’s most advanced ceramic construction with a dial cut from the depths of space itself. Following the Essence Space Ghost and the full-ceramic Essence Ceramica, this latest creation unites […]

Hands On: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s 2022 launch Dec 9, 2025

Hands On: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis

Earlier this year F.P. Journe unveiled its most daring jewellery watch yet, the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis, set with the largest baguette rubies ever used in watchmaking. Despite the current popularity of high jewellery watches, the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie (TVJ) Rubis is an audacious undertaking that required eight years to accumulate the right gemstones – and the destruction of 61 carats of gem-quality rubies to make this single watch. Initial thoughts Haute joaillerie watches of this sort are not new; the 1980s and 1990s saw significant demand for gem-set complicated watches, especially in Asia. But Over the last decade such watches have shifted from niche offerings to an important (and resilient) pillar of the business for many brands. Coloured stones are seeing marked interest too, as a sort of trend within a trend, as exemplified by Rolex’s “Rainbow” Daytona, one of the brand’s hottest models. Patek Philippe’s 2022 launch of the gem-set Grandmaster Chime trio can also be seen as a milestone for the genre, with one of Geneva’s flagship fine watchmaking brands adorning its flagship watch with diamonds, emeralds and sapphires. A unique Piaguet minute repeating pocket watch that’s a fine example of 1990s gem-setting high horology But with the TVJ, it’s clear that F.P. Journe is not simply following industry trends – this watch is eight years in the making and belongs to a two-decade tradition of high jewellery tour...

Precious Pocket Watches at Sotheby’s, Including a US$7.7 Million AP SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet dubbed “Grosse Pièce” Dec 8, 2025

Precious Pocket Watches at Sotheby’s, Including a US$7.7 Million AP

Pocket watches were the main driver of value at Sotheby’s New York auction that just concluded today. The four most valuable lots of the sale were three pocket watches and one clock, totalling over US$16 million with fees. Notably, all four were accrued by the late Robert M. Olmsted over more than six decades, along with numerous other pocket watches in the sale. In all the Olmsted Collection brought over US$20 million, underling the late Olmsted’s discerning eye. The top lot was the most complicated watch ever made by Audemars Piguet, dubbed “Grosse Pièce” for its size. The oversized watch set a record for the brand, selling for just over US$7.7 million including fees. It seemed a rising tide lifted all boats as many other pocket watches in the sale, including those from brands with little cachet today, blew past their high estimates. The big results included a 1930s school watch with a flying tourbillon by German watchmaker Heinz Eberhard that sold for US$355,600 and an oversized tourbillon clockwatch by Charles Frodsham that sold for US$1.12 million. Interestingly, many of these pocket watches went to the same paddle. Patek Philippe The “Grosse Pièce” wasn’t the first timepiece in the sale to clear seven figures. That distinction went to lot 32, a previously unknown Patek Philippe paperweight desk clock made for Thomas Emery, which sold for US$2.73 million. It is one of only three known Patek Philippe desk clocks of this type, with the other two – made...

Do Rolex Watches Tick? It's All In The Beat Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Dec 8, 2025

Do Rolex Watches Tick? It's All In The Beat

“Do Rolex watches tick?”  This is, apparently, a frequent question and a common concern of newbie Rolex owners, but the premise of the question is actually driven by a misconception. Virtually all Rolex watches - in fact, all watches equipped, as most Rolexes are, with a mechanical movement - are  indeed ticking while they are running. If your ear is not perceiving it, that is only because the ticking is so rapid - nowadays, at least eight times per second - that the watch’s seconds hand appears to be moving in a smooth, sweeping motion. This can be quite noticeable if you have experienced only the much more visible, (and easily perceptible) one-tick-per-second movement common to the seconds hand of a quartz watch. In fact, if your Rolex watch is ticking once per second, it might be worth taking a moment to authenticate whether or not it is real or counterfeit. Allow us to explain. [toc-section heading="The Difference Between Mechanical and Quartz Movements"] A mechanical movement is the oldest type of movement in horology. It uses a coiled metal spring, called a mainspring, that releases energy as it uncoils through a series of gears to drive a weighted, oscillating wheel called a balance wheel. The balance wheel’s oscillations are linked to an escapement, which periodically releases the gear train to move the hands forward to record the passing of hours, minutes, and seconds. Originally, the mainspring needed to be wound periodically by hand, first by a...

Nomos Glashütte Surprises With More Limited-Edition Club Sport Worldtimer Watches Fratello
Nomos Glashütte Surprises Dec 8, 2025

Nomos Glashütte Surprises With More Limited-Edition Club Sport Worldtimer Watches

Just in time to start celebrating the most wonderful time of the year, Nomos Glashütte drops its third run of limited-edition Club Sport Worldtimer models. Both the Roam and Reverie feature champagne-colored dials, but the color accents differ: the Roam showcases sky-blue and green accents, while the Reverie has touches of yellow and red. Each […] Visit Nomos Glashütte Surprises With More Limited-Edition Club Sport Worldtimer Watches to read the full article.

Nomos Caps off a Big 2025 with a New Pair of Limited Edition Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimers Worn & Wound
Nomos Caps off Dec 8, 2025

Nomos Caps off a Big 2025 with a New Pair of Limited Edition Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimers

It’s possible that 2025 might wind up being remembered as the year Nomos got its groove back. Of course, you’d have to argue that they ever lost it in the first place for that to be true, and I don’t know I’d quite go that far. But there’s no denying that they had their first true breakout watch in a very long time in 2025. The Club Sport Worldtimer, which debuted in April at Watches & Wonders, is almost certainly going to end up on a range of “Best of the Year” lists as December marches forward, and I can say without any hyperbole that it’s one of the top two or three watches from this year that I’m asked about by readers and collectors in the community. The fact that the limited editions that were part of the initial launch sold out so quickly is proof that the watch is resonating with enthusiasts.  Nomos added a trio of additional limited editions to the range back in October, and now, just in time for the holidays, they’ve added two more. Like that earlier set, the new Reverie and Roam models play on a similar theme. In this case, it’s the versatility of the classic champagne dial. The Reverie has a champagne dial base and is matched primarily with yellow accents (the outer cities ring, and within the 24 hour subdial). The complementary shades play well with each other, and the watch has a distinctly classic aesthetic. Nomos doesn’t really do “vintage inspired” but these tones make me think of old Datejusts and the types of watches you migh...

Timex Expedition Scout Review: The Best Field Watch On A Tight Budget? Teddy Baldassarre
Timex Dec 8, 2025

Timex Expedition Scout Review: The Best Field Watch On A Tight Budget?

The Timex Expedition Scout is a military inspired watch that has been around for years now and is a staple in the affordable field watch space. In fact, this is probably among the least expensive quality field watches out there and while it’s far from perfect, it’s got a lot to offer. [toc-section heading="Some Timex history"] Timex dates back to 1854, when the Waterbury Clock Company first set up shop in Connecticut. Following World War I, the brand emerged as a leading producer of affordable wristwatches built for everyday wear, all centered around a reputation for rugged reliability. Their memorable slogan “takes a licking and keeps on ticking” was born in the 50s and was inspired by their well-known televised torture tests that cemented Timex as the watch that simply wouldn’t quit. These stunts became part of pop culture, reinforcing the idea that a Timex was resilient (in addition to affordable). [toc-section heading="Timex and Military Field Watches"] As for field watches like this one, Timex has some genuine (if modest) military credentials. In 1982, the brand produced low-cost, disposable mechanical watches in olive-green plastic cases, echoing the Benrus designs worn by U.S. service members during the Vietnam era. While Timex was never a major military supplier, it does provide some insight into their field-watch cred, and it helps explain why the brand’s modern Expedition line feels so grounded in that utilitarian, no-nonsense tradition. [toc-section ...

Introducing – Massena LAB & Raúl Pagès Celebrate the 30th anniversary of TimeZone with the New TZ30 Watch Monochrome
Massena Lab & Raúl Pagès Celebrate Dec 8, 2025

Introducing – Massena LAB & Raúl Pagès Celebrate the 30th anniversary of TimeZone with the New TZ30 Watch

For over a decade, Massena LAB has been a creative platform where contemporary horology meets historical inspiration. Founded by William Massena, a longtime figure in the independent watch scene and former Managing Director of TimeZone.com, the studio has earned a reputation for collaborative, limited-edition projects with some of the most talented watchmakers of our time, […]

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Worn & Wound
Dec 8, 2025

The Ultimate Gift Guide for the College Football Playoff Super Fan in Your Life with AXIA Time

Some gifts last a season, and others last a lifetime. When it comes to celebrating the passion, pride, and pure chaos that define college football, few brands understand the emotional stakes quite like AXIA Time. In addition to being the Official Timepiece of the Heisman Trophy for its second year, they also return this year as the Official Timepiece of the College Football Playoff. AXIA continues to do what it does best: transform season-defining triumphs into Swiss-made timepieces worthy of the journey that led there. For the super fan in your life, the one who can recite bowl history by heart and still gets misty replaying their favorite fourth-quarter comeback, this year’s College Football Playoff collection lands right on time. The post The Ultimate Gift Guide for the College Football Playoff Super Fan in Your Life with AXIA Time appeared first on Worn & Wound.