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The Swatch Group

Largest Swiss watch employer (~17,000 staff). 18 brands from Breguet/Blancpain at the top to Swatch at entry. ETA SA + Nivarox-FAR. Hayek family controls.

Bremont Broadsword Hands-On: Testing The Entry-Level Bremont Two Broke Watch Snobs
Bremont Broadsword Hands-On Testing Oct 16, 2023

Bremont Broadsword Hands-On: Testing The Entry-Level Bremont

Over the years we've really warmed up to Bremont on this site, even though I think they've had some misses recently. The S302 GMT I reviewed is still a hit in my eyes and this time, I wanted to test out one of the more entry-level offerings in the catalog. By the way, that S302 even made its way into our guide covering the best military watches ever. While it's not necessarily affordable by any means, the Bremont Broadsword seemed to be a compelling entry point, specifically within the brand's Armed Forces collection. I jumped at the opportunity to try it out this year, along with a couple of other field watches in my rotation.

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Tudor Black Bay “Burgundy” Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay “Burgundy” I Oct 16, 2023

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Tudor Black Bay “Burgundy”

I don’t look at Tudor in the same way as some of my colleagues. I’ve always liked and admired the brand, and I’ve owned their watches in the past, but for me they come up well short of a brand that I’ve ever obsessed over. They make very good watches, and represent an excellent value in the larger market, but when a new Tudor is released and the entire Watch Internet stops in its tracks to dissect it to the micron, I always feel a little lost. They just don’t inspire a desire to dive into that level of analysis for me. It’s how I feel about ER versus The Sopranos. Both shows I love and find myself rewatching often. I could podcast every week about The Sopranos, but I just don’t have a lot to say about ER.  But when I saw the new Black Bay 41 in burgundy at Watches & Wonders this year, it felt different. It was like the Tudor portion of my brain, which might previously have been lobotomized, was magically activated, possibly for the very first time. It could have been the high of that first meeting of the show, the lighting in the booth, being in an over-caffeinated state, or the promise of those little sandwiches in the press lounge in a matter of hours, but I was in a particularly receptive mood for this watch. I remember it immediately standing out among their entire crop of releases, which had not yet been through the cycle of hype to come. I distinctly recall thinking that the new 41mm Black Bay was going to be the star pupil of this year’s novelties, ...

Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant (Force) Escapement: The Evolution of a Revolution Quill & Pad
Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Force Escapement Oct 16, 2023

Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant (Force) Escapement: The Evolution of a Revolution

While it is remarkable how Girard-Perregaux made the movement, it is even more astonishing how they turned it into such an incredibly good-looking watch. Compared to its predecessor, the Neo Constant Escapement has a very wearable size of 45mm in diameter at a thickness of 14.8mm. It sits nicely on even a smaller wrist thanks to relatively short lugs, while the titanium case keeps the weight down.

Now In The Shop: Breaking Barriers With AVI-8’s New Bell X-1 Automatic Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Oct 15, 2023

Now In The Shop: Breaking Barriers With AVI-8’s New Bell X-1 Automatic Limited Edition

AVI-8 is a new brand to the Windup Watch Shop, and they’re debuting with the all-new Bell X-1 Automatic Limited Edition. Formed in 2012, AVI-8 set out to explore the world of aviation through horology. The brand draws inspiration from all facets of aviation, whether it’s an iconic aircraft, record-breaking feat, or act of bravery. The Bell X-1 Automatic pulls from all three, commemorating Chuck Yeager’s history making flight of the Bell X-1 aircraft well past the speed of sound. AVI-8 is a new brand to the Windup Watch Shop, and they’re debuting with the all-new Bell X-1 Automatic Limited Edition. Formed in 2012, AVI-8 set out to explore the world of aviation through horology. The brand draws inspiration from all facets of aviation, whether it’s an iconic aircraft, record-breaking feat, or act of bravery. The Bell X-1 Automatic pulls from all three, commemorating Chuck Yeager’s history making flight of the Bell X-1 aircraft well past the speed of sound. The post Now In The Shop: Breaking Barriers With AVI-8’s New Bell X-1 Automatic Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Girard-Perregaux Unveils the New and Improved Constant Escapement SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Unveils Oct 14, 2023

Girard-Perregaux Unveils the New and Improved Constant Escapement

Still one of the most notable escapements on the market despite being a decade old, Girard-Perregaux’s double-wheel-and-silicon invention has been refined and revived as the Neo Constant Escapement. Presented in titanium, the Neo Constant Escapement is the regular production version of the unique piece in pink gold made for Only Watch 2023. The calibre within is a revamped version of the 2013 original that retains the double escape wheels and integral constant-force silicon spring, but reworked for superior function. Initial thoughts Technically impressive as it was, the original Constant Escapement (CE) from 2013 was huge (the case was 48 mm, making size one of its biggest weakness) and expensive at the time. That explains in part why the CE never caught on despite its merits. The revamp of the watch ten years old has substantially improved both its function and form. The Neo Constant Escapement (NCE) is both more wearable and more appealing in terms of design. Besides being more compact, the “Neo” case also has a highly domed crystal that shows off the escapement well. Even though the watch has been redesigned, the NCE retains the hyper-modern, open-worked styling of the original. The look certainly suits the inventive nature of the silicon escapement, though it would have been interesting if GP experimented with a classical design, which might have been ironic but attractive for the contrasting ideas. Equally important is the fact that the retail price remains ab...

REVIEW: Adding A Bit Of Sophistication With The Speake-Marin Ripples Original WatchAdvice
Speake-Marin Oct 14, 2023

REVIEW: Adding A Bit Of Sophistication With The Speake-Marin Ripples Original

If you’re after a sporty chic watch that will set you apart, the limited production Speak-Marin Ripples Original in black could be the out of the box choice! What We Love The ripple effect dialThinness of the caseWears extremely comfortable What We Don’t Bracelet clasp is tricky to undoLack of water resistanceNo lume on the dial Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 When it comes to the world of watches, the smaller independents often come second to the larger mass luxury brands. With the exception of a few high Haute Horology Maisons, many are overlooked by collectors and buyers alike. Partly due to the lack of mainstream brand presence, i.e marketing dollars, and partly due to the entry pricing of them, with many starting in the 10s of thousands of dollars. But for a good reason! Speake-Marin is one of these brands. The Maison is just 20 years young, and fiercely independent since the English/Swiss watchmaker was bought by an ambitious and ardent female entrepreneur, Christelle Rosnoblet in 2012. With it’s brand roots in England, yet now calling Switzerland home, the Maison’s pieces are developed, assembled and controlled in a fine watchmaking workshop, Le Cercle des Horlogers, which works hand in hand with Speake-Marin’s creation studio based in Geneva. The Speake-Marin Original Ripples Original Black Speake-Marin’s philosophy is simple, and boils down to three elements: All its collections are propo...

Reflecting on Ten Years of the Sensational De Bethune DB28 – Reprise Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Oct 14, 2023

Reflecting on Ten Years of the Sensational De Bethune DB28 – Reprise

It’s been more than ten years since the De Bethune DB28 won the Aiguille d’Or at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. Effectively the “Best Picture” at the “Oscars” of watchmaking, this recognition placed De Bethune among the elite company of Aiguille d’Or winners such as F.P. Journe, Greubel Forsey, Breguet, Audemars Piguet, A. Lange & Söhne, and Patek Philippe. A decade removed from its Hollywood ending, the DB28 remains a grail watch in every sense.

Zenith Watches: A Brief History and Overview of the Modern Collection Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Oct 13, 2023

Zenith Watches: A Brief History and Overview of the Modern Collection

Zenith SA, a Swiss watchmaker that traces its roots all the way back to 1865, is best known these days for its historic and hugely influential El Primero chronograph caliber, but the company can lay claim to many other horological milestones and accolades as well, some of which might be somewhat less than common knowledge. Did you know, for example, that Zenith has won more chronometry awards than any other watch brand? Or that it was once owned by an electronics company of the same name? Or that it is the only brand that’s allowed to put “Pilot” on a pilot’s watch dial? In this in-depth feature, I explore these and other aspects of Zenith’s fascinating history and also offer a primer on the manufacture’s modern watch collections. Georges-Favre-Jacot and Historic Integration Watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot (above) was a mere 22 years of age when he founded the atelier that would become Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1865. Favre-Jacot, a contemporary of Swiss modern architecture pioneer Le Corbusier, embraced a similarly modern approach to making watches, taking his cues from the American firms Waltham and Elgin, which had found success by introducing mass production into the traditionally artisanal business. His company, originally called Georges Favre-Jacot & Co., was the first Swiss watch producer to bring the various disciplines of horology under one roof - as opposed to the more common établissage system that most watchmakers used at the time, which h...

Tool/Kit: Speed Flying in Utah with Tyler Woolstenhulme and the Fortis Novonaut N-42 Cobalt Blue Worn & Wound
Fortis Novonaut N-42 Cobalt Blue Oct 13, 2023

Tool/Kit: Speed Flying in Utah with Tyler Woolstenhulme and the Fortis Novonaut N-42 Cobalt Blue

Chances are you’ve heard of hang gliding, and you might have even heard of paragliding. But have you ever heard of speed flying? We spent a day on the side of a mountain in Utah’s Wasatch Front with speed flyer, Tyler Woolstenhulme, and his fast-flying friends, along with the new Novonaut N-42 Cobalt Blue by Fortis. This watch was an effective companion to this adventurer who chases sunrises and sunsets for that ideal air that will send him speeding down a mountainside just feet from the treetops. We caught up with Tyler after this amazing day of passionate pursuit.   Hey Tyler, thanks so much for chatting with us. Tell us a bit about yourself. What do you do for your day job and what are your hobbies and passions? My name is Tyler Woolstenhulme. I’m originally from Idaho, so I grew up in an outdoorsy state skiing, camping, doing all kinds of outdoor activities. I moved to Utah about 20 years ago where I picked up mountain biking, waterskiing, canyoneering, and… speed flying. For pretty much outdoor activity, I either have the gear or will quickly find the gear for it. For my day job, I work remotely selling software and have the luxury of working where my laptop is. This often affords me the flexibility of being in places that are in close proximity to doing the things that I love.   The post Tool/Kit: Speed Flying in Utah with Tyler Woolstenhulme and the Fortis Novonaut N-42 Cobalt Blue appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Rowing Blazers, Eric Wind, Bamford, and TAG Heuer Team Up for a Colorful Yachting Take on the Carrera Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Team Up Oct 13, 2023

Rowing Blazers, Eric Wind, Bamford, and TAG Heuer Team Up for a Colorful Yachting Take on the Carrera

Even for those who don’t follow menswear closely, I’m sure you’ve undoubtedly heard of Rowing Blazers in the last year or so. Whether it be from their limited releases with Seiko or Tudor, or their recent partnership with Target, Rowing Blazers’ star continues to rise and it’s due, in part, to their proven success in the collaborative business model.  Released today, their latest collection shows how deeply a collaborative spirit is ingrained into the spirit of the brand. The limited edition 42mm “Yacht-Timer” Carrera by Rowing Blazers is the product of founder Jack Carlson, industry veteran Eric Wind, and Bamford Watch Department to bring to life a reimagining of the classic TAG Heuer Yacht-Timer of the 60’s and 70’s. The original Heuer was used by competitive sailors during regattas and it was this sporting history and colorway that stuck with Carlson as they began to design this watch. With a white dial, bright blue text, and hits of red, blue, green, and pale yellow, it was only a matter of time before this preppy color scheme was incorporated into a Rowing Blazer project. By partnering with Eric Wind of Wind Vintage and George Bamford of Bamford Watch Department, the trio was able to create a timepiece that is deeply inspired by the original while still making it a uniquely modern interpretation. The stainless steel Carrera case sits handsomely at 42mm with a matching steel bracelet. The dial of this watch takes elements of the original’s colorway...

The Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph, Now in Lightweight Titanium SJX Watches
Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph Now Oct 12, 2023

The Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph, Now in Lightweight Titanium

After the release of the scaled-down version of the Spirit Zulu Time, Longines has unveiled a new iteration of the Spirit Flyback Chronograph. This variation features a titanium case and bracelet, and an anthracite dial only for now, while preserving the design of the existing steel models. Initial thoughts Longines should be acknowledged for its success in creating vintage-style watches, as evident in its aviation-inspired Spirit collection, notably the Flyback Chronograph. The introduction of this chronograph in titanium shows a continuation of this successful run, despite its large case size.  As for this timepiece, it maintains the design features and case dimensions of the steel Spirit Flyback. However, it’s worth noting that it is currently only offered with an anthracite dial. It would have been preferable for the new case material to be accompanied by a new dial colour to truly make this release stand out. The titanium Spirit Flyback is offered with two strap options: one with a NATO strap priced at US$4,850 and another with a bracelet priced at US$5,200. Despite a modest price increase compared to the steel models, it continues to deliver exceptional value for its quality.  The Flyback in titanium Much like its steel counterparts, the titanium Spirit Flyback Chronograph exudes a distinct vintage-inspired design. Presently, it is only offered with a sun ray brushed anthracite dial as compared to the steel models available in either black or blue dials. The stee...

Alsta Refreshes the Nautoscaph with Three Vintage Inspired Skin Divers Worn & Wound
Oct 11, 2023

Alsta Refreshes the Nautoscaph with Three Vintage Inspired Skin Divers

Fans of the skin diver, the easy to wear style of dive watch that has become core to the watch-nerd lifestyle in recent years, will be excited to hear about the new Nautoscaph Skin Divers from Alsta, a watch brand that was truly there at the beginning of the skin diver movement in the heyday of recreational SCUBA diving decades ago. It’s very easy, in my opinion, to see the appeal of the skin diver. They were made to be an approachable alternative to more professional oriented dive watches years ago, and those design characteristics that made them appealing in the 60s and 70s remain alluring today. These watches tend to have smaller case sizes that are thinner and easier to handle than bigger, chunkier divers that are rated to go much deeper. Plus, you still get an ultra practical, highly legible dial. Ditto for the timing bezel. What’s not to like?  Alsta is perhaps best known these days for being associated, somewhat loosely, with Jaws, which we covered earlier this year in podcast form. Richard Dreyfuss, as Matt Hooper, wore an Alsta throughout the film, in a way that can only be described as inconspicuous and incredibly casual. It just feels like the right kind of watch for a character who might or might not need to do a little diving, and it looks at home topside in a variety of situations, which is part of the point of a skin diver to begin with. The new Nautoscaphs seen here certainly have a similar vibe, and would make sense on the wrist of Matt Hooper or his ...

The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin commits to green and gold Time+Tide
Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Oct 11, 2023

The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin commits to green and gold

Bright and flashy colours were initially seen as a returning trend when they first started cropping up a couple of years ago, but unlike the Stella dials or funky divers of the 1970s, colours have permeated all corners of watchmaking. A perpetual calendar watch is possibly the ultimate commitment to a colour, as it’s fully … ContinuedThe post The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin commits to green and gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Goes Historical Again with the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT SPB411 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko models Oct 11, 2023

Seiko Goes Historical Again with the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT SPB411

Following the release of the 1970s diver reissue and a solar chronograph inspired by a 1990s design, Seiko has reintroduced another historical model as the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition SPB411. This remake draws inspiration from the Navigator Timer from 1968, the brand’s first dual time zone watch with a 24-hour rotating bezel. Now it’s been given a modern update with a new calibre and tweaks to the dial design while retaining the retro tonneau-shaped case. Initial thoughts The Navigator Timer is not quite as famous as its diving or chronograph counterparts, but still an important vintage “tool” watch amongst vintage Seikos. The Japanese brand has executed its long-awaited revival admirably, offering a contemporary interpretation with a modern movement while maintaining the essence of its original design. It’s worth noting that this reissue should be more accurately described as a dual time zone watch with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than a genuine GMT with an adjustable local-time hour hand, a feature usually seen in higher-end Grand Seiko models. This distinction means that setting the watch for different time zones involves a few extra steps. However, given its price point, this compromise remains entirely reasonable. Priced at US$1,600, it’s a US$100 increase from the standard Prospex Diver’s GMT. Despite this modest cost bump, opting for this limited edition still offers great value. That said, collectors might be less...

30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore: Celebrity Collaborations Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Celebrity Oct 11, 2023

30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore: Celebrity Collaborations

In this fourth article commemorating the 30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore (following: 4 New 2023 Releases, Here Come ‘The Beasts’, and ROO F1s, High Octane Fairy Tales of Super Star Racing Drivers), here is the topic that initially interested Alexey Kutkovoy the most, i.e. the annals of the Royal Oak Offshore limited and special editions.