Hodinkee
The Grand Seiko 45GS
Combining Grand Seiko's technical bona fides with Taro Tanaka's "Grammar of Design" ideals
Results for Grand Feu Enamel
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Hodinkee
Fratello
Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication
The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication is a pièce unique that showcases its maker’s horological muscle. The world’s most complicated wristwatch brings to the fore several groundbreaking features. Let’s take a look. The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Vacheron Constantin is a watchmaker that needs no introduction. One of the “Holy Trinity” […] Visit Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication: featuring 41 complications on a single wrist watch.
Time+Tide
The Minute Repeater Perpetual is a great (and almost grand) complication from A. Lange & Söhne
A. Lange & Söhne releases the Minute Repeater Perpetual, a high-end complication at a time when those don't seem too popular...The post The Minute Repeater Perpetual is a great (and almost grand) complication from A. Lange & Söhne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel
Moser hits the nail on the head when it states that for a straightforward three-hand watch to rise above the generic models populating the field, it requires perfect balance and proportions, high-end finishes and a unique touch. The new Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept ticks all the boxes with its well-finished, balanced case, captivating purple Grand […]
Video
Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM239 Limited Edition For HODINKEE
Fratello
Watches And Wonders 2025: Geneva’s Grand Horological Showcase Is Here
As the Northern Hemisphere eagerly anticipates spring’s arrival, the watchmaking community’s attention turns to Geneva, where the prestigious Watches and Wonders fair will take place from April 1st to 7th, 2025. This year’s event promises to be the largest and most diverse gathering in its four-year history. A record 60 brands will be taking over […] Visit Watches And Wonders 2025: Geneva’s Grand Horological Showcase Is Here to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Dior Grand Bal Broderie Florale
Dior launches for 2025 a beautiful new model which they call the Grand Bal Broderie Florale. Limited Editon of 38 pieces in a steel case.
Monochrome
Buying Guide – A Selection of Enamel Watches Using Rare Techniques such as Cloisonné, Champlevé or Flinqué
Enameling is one of the oldest decorative techniques, invented over 4,000 years ago and used, for example, in Mesopotamia and then Egypt. Surprisingly enough, the earliest enamel all used the cloisonné technique, known to be one of the most complex techniques currently in use. Under the word enamel, at least in watchmaking and decorative techniques, […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Grand Seiko Watches Of All Time
Choosing a favorite Grand Seiko was bound to be one of the more difficult prompts we could give to the Teddy editorial team. One of the most beloved watch brands out there, Grand Seiko has been around since 1960 but only began distributing internationally in 2010 and didn’t become a truly independent brand until 2017. Old-timers will recall the days when it was truly difficult to get your hands on what is now the Japanese luxury watch giant. Ironically the SBGA211, aka the "Snowflake," didn’t make the list here, which actually says a lot about the sheer volume of excellent pieces Grand Seiko has released over the years. So let us get to our editors’ picks for their favorite Grand Seiko of all time and, as usual, make sure to share your own pick. Oh, and for the first time since we started doing these editors' picks, two team members individually landed on the same watch... Mark Bernardo: Godzilla 65th Anniversary Limited Edition Unlike many other choices for these Editor’s Picks lists, my favorite Grand Seiko timepiece was relatively easy to identify - because it is the watch with the most intriguing backstory as well as the type of pop-cultural, collaborative piece that the luxury brand is unlikely to ever make again. The Grand Seiko Godzilla 65th Anniversary Limited Edition, released in 2019, commemorated a pair of seemingly unrelated anniversaries that occurred that year: 65 years since the release of the original, iconic Godzilla movie by Toho Ltd. in 1954, a...
Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Sport Collection Guide
After a relatively short time in the international market — and an even shorter time as a truly independent brand rather than an elevated product family — Grand Seiko has indisputably come into its own as a top-tier luxury watchmaker. Despite the inescapable fact that it still shares ownership and an industrial base with the parent Seiko brand, Grand Seiko has successfully put distance between its high-end output and Seiko’s more accessible, mass-market offerings. In fact, one could argue that enthusiasts and collectors have largely pigeonholed Grand Seiko as the luxurious, elegant dress watch brand and “Regular” Seiko as the sports- and tool-watch brand. But this perception would not be entirely accurate. Grand Seiko makes its own fair share of sporty timepieces with robustly built cases, less-than-modest case dimensions, and practical functions and complications, despite packaging all of these attributes into timepieces that are distinctly more luxurious — and accordingly more pricey — than their Seiko counterparts. Most of these watches fall within the aptly named Sport collection, which made its official debut in 2017, the same year that Grand Seiko established itself as its own brand. The roots of the Sport family DNA reach back significantly further — starting in 1998, with the launch of the Caliber 9S5 inside the first automatic Grand Seiko in more than 20 years, and continuing through the introduction of the first Grand Seiko model with a GMT func...
Video
The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ237 & SBGJ239 are two of the boldest steel sports watches of 2020
SJX Watches
Seiko Adds Another Affordable Fired Enamel Dial to the Presage
A tribute to Seiko’s first-ever pocket watch dating to 1895, the Presage Craftsmanship Series SPB495 boasts a white fired enamel dial with elongated Roman numerals, a style typical of pocket watches during the turn of the century. As is tradition for the Presage Craftsmanship series, the fired enamel dial is produced in the workshop of Mitsuru Yokosawa in the traditional way, firing the enamel glaze in a high-temperature kiln, while staying accessible with a retail price of US$1,400. Initial thoughts Seiko has released numerous re-creations of its first wristwatch, the Laurel of 1913, including the recent Presage “Porter Classic” SPB449. However, with the SPB495, the brand now goes back even further to its first pocket watch, which is marking its 130th anniversary this year. Notably, this uses the revamped Presage case that’s a little smaller and slimmer than earlier generations. The case is still a little big for a dress watch, but acceptable and also necessary due to the size of the movement. The dial is typical of 19th century pocket watches and extremely classical, even by the standards of the classical Presage series. It’s basically another option for someone who appreciates the cost-performance offering of the Presage. Staying in the usual sweet spot for pricing of the Presage Craftsmanship Series, the SPB495 is priced competitively at US$1,400. Although it’s pricier than the base-model Presage offerings, the price is more than justified by the fired enam...
Hodinkee
Video: Akio Naito and Munehisa Shibasaki On Grand Seiko In America And The Future Of All Things Seiko
The President and the Senior VP of Seiko Watch Corp join Ben for a candid chat about their histories with Seiko, bringing Grand Seiko to the US, and much more.
Worn & Wound
Colorado’s Best Kept Secret: The 5280 Watch Company is Making Timepieces with Enamel Dials for Under $4,000
This summer, a new American watch company quietly launched in Denver, Colorado. Fittingly named 5280 after the Mile High City where the brand calls home, this watchmaker is tackling an artistic craft that’s particularly near and dear to my heart: vitreous enamel. 5280 is the brainchild of founder Rich Keel, a longtime watch collector. For him, timepieces have always been less about functionality and more about wearable art. In addition to being a lover of watches, Keel is a lover of art of all kinds. “I’ve always been a big fan of Impressionism and its vibrant colors, beauty, depth, and richness-really art from the late 19th and early 20th centuries is what I gravitate toward,” he shares. “Faberge eggs are another artform that’s always fascinated me. So, when I decided I wanted to bring my passion for watches and art together and create my own company, the goal was to put a Faberge egg on a watch face.” Despite his knowledge and appreciation for art, Keel admits he’s “utterly inept when it comes to being artistic,” so he knew he’d have to tap the right craftsman to execute his vision. Enter Bill Brinker, an expert in guilloche and enamel work and a true artist through and through. I’ve had the pleasure of interviewing and training with a number of masters in the arts of guilloche and enamel work throughout my career and in my personal pursuit of the crafts, but none have quite as unique and fascinating a story as Brinker. He hails from a tow...
Fratello
The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar - GPHG 2024’s “Aiguille D’Or” Grand Prix Winner
Last month, the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar won the famed “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix at 2024’s GPHG. Because of its innovative complication, it’s a watch worth revisiting. However, you can also visit this timepiece in person at the new Amsterdam IWC boutique. We briefly looked at the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar after it debuted at […] Visit The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar - GPHG 2024’s “Aiguille D’Or” Grand Prix Winner to read the full article.
Fratello
Sweet 16: The Moritz Grossmann Enamel Roman Vintage
Today, we’ll look at the new Moritz Grossmann Enamel Roman Vintage. This is a limited-edition watch celebrating the 16th anniversary of the brand’s revival. As always with Moritz Grossmann, the focus is on finishing and mechanical prowess. For fans of Moritz Grossmann watches, the new Enamel Roman Vintage isn’t a new model. It’s a variant […] Visit Sweet 16: The Moritz Grossmann Enamel Roman Vintage to read the full article.
Video
HOT 2020 Watch Review: Grand Seiko, Nomos, Moser, Montblanc
SJX Watches
Unique Tudor Black Bay Ceramic for Las Vegas Grand Prix
Building upon the Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” made just for the Miami Grand Prix in May, Tudor just unveiled the Black Bay Ceramic in green-blue livery, which will be worn by drivers Yuki Tsunoda and Liam Lawson of the Visa Cash App RB Formula One Team (VCARB) during the Formula 1 Las Vegas Grand Prix. Inspired by the glittering lights and colours of the Las Vegas strip that hosts the circuit, the one-off Black Bay Ceramic a speckled, graduated green-blue dial paired with a matching strap. Initial thoughts Since the announcement of the partnership between Tudor and the VCARB Formula 1 Team, the watchmaker has already unveiled several VCARB editions. The Las Vegas and Miami race editions are more striking and unusual, but unfortunately only issued to the team drivers for the race. Regular folk will have to make do with the Black Bay Ceramic VCARB that’s available in stores and good value, but not quite as unique. While it might seem that that special editions from Tudor are many, the brand’s collaborative watches mirrors the approach taken by Rolex decades ago, when the Geneva giant made watches for various professionals. Besides VCARB, Tudor has made watches for French navy aviators, the Alinghi America’s Cup team, and reputedly the US Navy’s elite SEALs. The colours of the Strip The dial and strap feature a green-blue finish modelled by the VCARB livery for the Las Vegas Grand Prix, which is in turn inspired by the reflected lights of the Las Vegas Strip. As...
SJX Watches
A Modern Take on Paillonné Enamel by Hermès
Bearing an equestrian motif in typical Hermès style, the Arceau Robe Légère has a dial in paillonné enamel. Inspired by the silk scarf of the same name, the dial depicts horse composed of thin layers of delicately formed silver leaf on a dark blue enamel base. Initial thoughts Paillonné is a relatively uncommon technique in watchmaking, and even when employed in watches it’s usually traditional in style. The Arceau Robe Légère, in contrast, has a modern, slightly whimsical feel, as is typical of Hermes’ house style, which sets it apart from most executions of paillonné enamel. Granted, the equestrian motif is familiar and employed again and again, but it is very much Hermes. You wouldn’t expect anything else from a brand that began as a maker of leather saddles for horse riding. Silver horse Featuring a 38 mm white gold Arceau case with its asymmetrical stirrup-shaped lugs, the Arceau Robe Légère sports 71 brilliant-cut diamonds on its bezel. The dial is in a dark blue fired enamel with the paillonné technique applied on top, with its intricate detailed revealed only up close. The horse is actually composed of flowers, which are in turn made up of tiny pieces of silver foil (known as paillons) carefully assembled by hand on the dark blue enamel base. The motif is then painted over with clear enamel to set it on the base. The watch is powered by the self-winding H1912 made by Vaucher. It offers 50 hours of power reserve, and beats at 28,800 beats per hour...
Deployant
New: Moritz Grossmann Enamel Roman Vintage
Moritz Grossmann releases a new limited edition model for the 16th anniversary of their manufactory. The novelty is called the Enamel Roman Vintage.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Presents Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel
The year’s Vacheron Constantin (VC) Les Cabinotiers collection of unique timepieces explore the mythology of time across different cultures. A trio of unique pieces with miniature enamel dials, Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin Japanese Culture are time-only watches with exquisite dial art, each depicting a Japanese deity. The functional simplicity of the three watches contrast with their Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin counterparts equipped with tourbillon regulators. While the tourbillon-equipped models take inspiration from Greek fables and wider East Asian culture, the present pieces are specifically focused on Japanese themes. Each of the three watches is equipped with a one-of-a-kind dial crafted with enamelling and engraving by VC’s in-house artisans. Initial thoughts VC’s endeavour bringing forth elements of time-related mythology from different cultural perspectives is laudable – and also logical given their application on a wristwatch. Moreover, the concept is executed well both in terms of style and technique in the 2024 Les Cabinotiers line-up. Les Cabinotiers (and also Metiers d’Art) demonstrate VC’s mastery of artisanal decoration. The dials in the Japanese Culture trio are achieved with several techniques in tandem, namely engraving and enamelling, but done in-house. The artful combination of technique results in a very-appealing series of unique creations. In fact, these watches are decorated with techniques similar to the incredible Les Cabinotier...
Hodinkee
In-Depth: A Tour Of Grand Seiko, Part 2
From the mechanical watchmaking center of Studio Shizukuishi to the Seiko Museum back in Ginza, Tokyo, we finish our tour of Grand Seiko in Japan.
Video
Tudor Black Bay GMT, Grand Seiko to Metal G-Shock: Watch Collecting For The Right Reasons
Quill & Pad
Laurent Perrier Grand Siècle Champagne: House Heritage and Tasting Notes
When one of the world’s leading wine critics names a non-vintage champagne as their Wine of the Year (not just Champagne of the Year), then it is worth a look, especially in competition with 36,000 other wines. The wine is Laurent-Perrier’s Grand Siècle No 26.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Gentlemen’s GMT Watches - From Grand Seiko, Parmigiani Fleurier, Lorca, And More
Another Friday, another list! This week, we look at five gentlemen’s GMT watches that stand out because of their distinguished presence. These aren’t your typical Rolex GMT-Master-influenced timepieces. No, this is a list of the more classical-looking GMTs, multi-time-zone/traveler’s watches that fly a little more under the radar. So don’t expect any colorful rotating bezels […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Gentlemen’s GMT Watches - From Grand Seiko, Parmigiani Fleurier, Lorca, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Monet’s Venice in Miniature Enamel by Jaeger-LeCoultre
Ahead of this month’s Homo Faber Biennial exhibition in Venice, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Monet,” a collection of three watches, limited to 10 pieces each, adorned with miniature enamel reproductions of Claude Monet’s iconic Venice series of paintings. Each enamel painting is composed of 14 layers of enamel, including seven layers of translucent fondant glaze, each requiring its own firing at up to 800 degrees celsius. Initial thoughts Painted enamel case backs are nothing new for the Reverso, a watch that, given its hinged case, is uniquely suited to such decoration. That said, they are a joy to behold due to the skill of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s in-house enamel artists. In this case, I also happen to personally appreciate the chosen subject matter; I find Monet’s Venice series deeply moving. While the case backs are the star attraction, the dials are decorated with hand guilloche, with a different pattern and colour for each piece. The ‘Grand Canal,’ for example, is paired with a guilloche pattern inspired by the ripples of the canal as depicted by Monet, and finished in translucent green enamel. ‘The Doges’ Palace’ features a modified basket weave pattern, while the ‘San Giorgio Maggiore’ features a herringbone pattern. Priced at €100,000, the Reverso Tribute Monet for collectors who value the rarity of this type of hand craftsmanship and artisanship. Like other forms of art, there’s an element of patronage that goes...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Two New Grand Seiko U.S. Exclusive Releases – SBGA507 & SBGA509
Grand Seiko pays tribute to the transitioning sky over Lake Suwa with its new regional releases.
Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Quartz Guide: The SBGP013
Today we’re looking at one of the best ways to get into Grand Seiko if you’re just discovering the brand for the first time. Or maybe you’re just looking for your “one nice watch” and want something that can do it all. One that can go straight from the office to kicking back on the weekend, perhaps even dressing up for special occasions. A GADA watch, if you will. So if you’re just now starting to go down the rabbit hole of luxury watches, you’ve probably become somewhat familiar with Grand Seiko. The brand came into existence in 1960 as a high-end offshoot of Seiko, a shot across the bow of the Swiss watch industry, and a statement that its quality could match anything in the watchmaking world. One thing you’ll notice as you start to look deeper into Grand Seiko is the astonishing level of craftsmanship that touches every part of every watch they make. Just like Rolex and Seiko itself, Grand Seiko is one of the most vertically integrated watch brands in the world – in other words, it manufactures nearly everything that goes into its watches. From finely polished stainless steel, precious metals, and high-intensity titanium cases to its innovative and beautifully finished movements and breathtaking dials that draw inspiration from nature, Grand Seiko does it all, going to some extraordinary lengths, including growing its own proprietary quartz crystals, and manufacturing the lubricants that go into each movement. If you take a look at Teddy’s video ...
Video