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Hands-on – Some Thoughts about the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P, One of the Best in Years Monochrome
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P One Apr 9, 2025

Hands-on – Some Thoughts about the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P, One of the Best in Years

If you ask yourself what’s the most classic dress watch ever made by Patek, and probably one of the most important models of the category, the answer should ultimately be the Calatrava. Not much to debate here. The collection, created in 1932 with the reference 96, has had such an influence on the watch industry […]

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Watches & Wonders 2025 Releases Teddy Baldassarre
Apr 9, 2025

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Watches & Wonders 2025 Releases

Watches & Wonders 2025 has come and gone and there was no shortage of unexpected releases and divided opinions. The editorial team here at Teddy was on the ground covering all the new launches, and afterward we asked them to name their favorite release from the show. It’s not an easy task, but we are going to have a few more of these post-show Editors’ Picks articles in the coming days that will expound a bit more on what we thought. For now, let’s get to our overall favorite picks from Watches & Wonders 2025. Danny Milton: Rolex Land-Dweller I won't belabor the point here, considering I penned about 2,000 words on this watch at launch, and helped produce our hands-on coverage at embargo. The Land-Dweller is seriously big news, and in all candor, is the watch of the show, full stop. It plays on nostalgia via its callback to the design language of integrated sports watches from Rolex in the 1970s. It introduces an entirely new design template in the modern Rolex context via a new case; a new, flat Jubilee bracelet; patented stick markers; new open applied numerals; new hands; a new counterweight on the seconds hand; and a new honeycomb dial, not to mention a new fluted bezel design. But the real star of the show is a silicon escapement made from the ground up. Dynapulse is perhaps Rolex's greatest innovation and results in a new 5Hz beat rate while maintaining accuracy, shock resistance and antimagnetic properties. But above all else, the watch honestly looks and wear...

Photo Essay: Patek Philippe Gets Nostalgic with Rare Handcrafts 2025 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Gets Nostalgic Apr 9, 2025

Photo Essay: Patek Philippe Gets Nostalgic with Rare Handcrafts 2025

Just as Watches & Wonders 2025 comes to a close, Patek Philippe is opening the doors of its annual showcase of Rare Handcrafts at its historical home base along the Geneva waterfront. Now open for a period of three weeks rather than two as was the case for the 2024 exhibition, the exhibition features dozens of Dome Clocks, wristwatches, and pocket watches embellished with miniature enamel painting, cloisonné, marquetry, hand engraving, and other artistic forms of decoration. The view from the salon with the historic Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues on the left hidden by trees In addition to the usual nature-inspired themes, this year’s collection plays to nostalgia, including both rose-coloured memories of the past and antiquarian visions of the future. Visiting the Rare Handcrafts exhibit is enjoyable because intellectually it’s a level playing field; it’s mostly the same clocks and watches with the same specs and movements dressed up in different ways. This fact makes it easier to pay attention to one’s own heart, and to get drawn into the creations on an emotional level. Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50R-020 “Regent Street” Clocks While the selection of clocks is naturally centered around the brand’s iconic Dome Clocks, Patek is also bringing back desk clocks with a new version of the ref. 27001M which sold for more than US$10 million at Only Watch in 2021. For the corporate titan who has everything, the million-franc desk clock ref. 27000M is embellished with e...

Editorial: Observations and Takeaways at Watches & Wonders 2025 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication Apr 9, 2025

Editorial: Observations and Takeaways at Watches & Wonders 2025

By some measures, Watches & Wonders 2025 was the biggest ever. Visitors rose 12% on the previous year to 55,000, and more inconveniently, the hotel room-nights were up 17% to 43,000, perhaps explaining why accommodation gets more expensive every year (but fortunately still far from the extortion of Basel). But I am certain by other measures Watches & Wonders (W&W;) was a down year. Orders by retailers for new watches are surely lower than a year before. There was an undercurrent of concern throughout the fair, even before American tariffs were announced halfway through. But as is often the case, most executives acknowledge a slowdown but predict their brand will outperform because it is better. The best of the Land-Dweller variants, the 40 mm in platinum Big and small brands One of the most interesting developments this year is the degree of novelty at big brands compared to independent watchmakers. In recent history indies tended to have the more notable creations – the F.P. Journe FFC from two years ago is one of the all-time greats – but this year the opposite happened. The two best launches during W&W; season came from big brands (or at least an establishment brand owned by a big group): the Rolex Land-Dweller and the Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. The Land-Dweller incorporates an extraordinary number of innovations in its cal. 7135, while the Solaria is the most complicated wristwatch ever made, but importantly, it gained the title with a clev...

Hands-On Impressions of the New Watches from Bremont Worn & Wound
Bremont It’s not Apr 8, 2025

Hands-On Impressions of the New Watches from Bremont

It’s not an exaggeration to say that my meeting with Bremont at this year’s Watches & Wonders was among my most anticipated. For better or worse (probably worse, if you survey watch industry vets, media types, and longtime enthusiasts) Bremont’s output dominated much of the conversation during and after last year’s event. It was the brand’s first Watches & Wonders, and the public unveiling of an entirely new look for the brand. As I’m sure many readers will remember, it did not go over particularly well. But 2025 is a new year, and a new opportunity for Bremont to crystallize in the mind of observers what this new era will be about. Because, to be sure, it will not be like “old” Bremont. That ship has sailed, and while some of the watches introduced this year are in direct conversation with Bremont classics, they are still distinctly their own thing. That’s not a judgement, but it’s the reason why some Bremont loyalists will continue to dismiss the new novelties, even if from a bird’s eye view they appear that they might be a return to form. By the same token, someone like me, who was never really a hardcore Bremont enthusiast to begin with, might see silver linings and positive steps forward for the brand.  This is perhaps a longwinded way of saying that Bremont’s output at Watches & Wonders this year was a mixed bag, but a big improvement over last year. More importantly, regardless of whether you like the watches they debuted at the show, the vi...

Bell & Ross Introduces a New, Smaller BR-05 36MM Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Introduces Apr 8, 2025

Bell & Ross Introduces a New, Smaller BR-05 36MM

Twenty years after the release of the Bell & Ross BR-01, which first showcased the square case shape and bold legibility that would become their aesthetic hallmarks, the Franco-Swiss brand is celebrating with new iterations of their most popular and recognizable watches. Among these new editions are four versions of the BR-05 36mm, which gives the model a smaller size and new dial colorways.  The most noticeable update to the BR-05 is right there in its name-the smaller and thinner satin-polished steel case measures at 36mm in diameter and 8.5mm in thickness, giving it significantly less heft than the previous 40, 41, and 42mm models. Four screws ensure that the upper section of the case is hermetically sealed to the bottom, and give the iconic rounded square extra urban-industrial character. An integrated bracelet furthers the watch’s sporty-yet-elegant silhouette, secured by a folding satin-finished buckle. A screw-down crown flanked by guards and emblazoned with the Bell & Ross ampersand logo ensures 100 meters of water resistance, while a Caliber BR-CAL.329 automatic movement ticks away inside, maintaining a 54-hour power reserve.  Each of the four new models features identical applique numerals and indexes, and skeletonised hour and minute hands (all filled with white Super-LumiNova X1). However, each dial varies in both color and material, all of which lean towards chic-versatility (yes, I did make that phrase up), but maintain a cohesive aesthetic. The first o...

Introducing – The New Union Glashütte Noramis Date Sport and Noramis Chronograph Sport Monochrome
Union Glashütte Apr 8, 2025

Introducing – The New Union Glashütte Noramis Date Sport and Noramis Chronograph Sport

Union Glashütte, now part of Swatch Group, marks its birth in 1893 when Johannes Dürrstein founded the Uhrenfabrik Union in the heart of Germany’s watchmaking region. Balancing vintage and modern elements with appealing designs and a reasonable price-to-quality ratio, nowadays the brand receives proper attention with releases like last year´s Noramis Chronograph Sport with its […]

Windup Watch Fair San Francisco is Back, Baby! May 2-4, 2025 Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Apr 7, 2025

Windup Watch Fair San Francisco is Back, Baby! May 2-4, 2025

That’s right-Windup Watch Fair is heading back to the Bay Area, and we couldn’t be more excited. From Friday, May 2nd to Sunday, May 4th, 2025, the Gateway Pavilion at the Fort Mason Center is the place to be for watch lovers, collectors, and anyone who just appreciates great design and craftsmanship. Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Friday, May 2 – Sunday, May 4, 2024 Gateway Pavilion at Fort Mason Center for Arts & Culture San Francisco, CA Free and open to the public. If you’ve never been to Windup before, here’s the scoop: it’s a free, three-day event created by Worn & Wound to bring together the watch community. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or just getting into the hobby, this is your chance to see amazing timepieces up close, chat with the people who make them, and connect with fellow enthusiasts-all in a fun, laid-back atmosphere. Not to mention, Windup SF is easily held at one of our most iconic venues: Pier 2 in San Francisco Bay with unforgettable views of both Alcatraz and The Golden Gate Bridge.   This year, we’re stoked to have an incredible lineup of lead sponsors, including anOrdain, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Frederique Constant, and Oris. These brands are bringing their A-game with some seriously cool watches, and you’ll get the chance to check them out firsthand. Expect a killer mix of independent and well-known brands, hands-on experiences, and the opportunity to buy watches directly from the people who craft them. Plus, there...

Auction Watch: Breguet Sympathique No. 1 at Phillips SJX Watches
Breguet Sympathique No 1 Apr 7, 2025

Auction Watch: Breguet Sympathique No. 1 at Phillips

Right on time for Breguet’s 250th anniversary this year, Phillips just revealed it will soon be selling Breguet Sympathique no. 1, the unique, entirely gold clock created as a tribute to the 19th century originals made by Abraham-Louis Breguet. This is the first time the clock is emerging in public after it was first sold in 1991. Actually a clock with an accompany wristwatch (that can be transformed into a pocket watch), the Sympathique is masterful, modern-day creation that reproduces the genius of A.-L. Breguet’s original concept of a master clock that winds and sets a removable watch over the course of the night, allowing the owner to retrieve the watch for use the next day. The first of a 20-piece series, clock no. 1 is most unique in both entirely solid gold – the master clock, wristwatch, pocket watch case, and bracelet are all in 18k yellow gold. Like the rest of the series it was constructed by Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) in Sainte-Croix, a complications workshop that is today most famous for having had Francois-Paul Journe, Denis Flageollet, and Vianney Halter amongst its alumni. One of the artisans who worked on the Sympathique series was Dominique Mouret, a clockmaker who today still restores antique clocks in his workshop in Sainte-Croix. The clock comes straight from the collection of the original owner who paid CHF1.55 million at The Art of Breguet auction held by Antiquorum in 1991. It has an estimate in excess of CHF1.00 million, but I t...

Tudor’s Black Bay Pro, Now in Opaline White SJX Watches
Tudor s Black Bay Pro Apr 7, 2025

Tudor’s Black Bay Pro, Now in Opaline White

Tudor has given its Black Bay Pro a new look with an “opaline” white dial, fulfilling a long-standing enthusiasts’ wish. This new model replaces the black dial launched in 2022, while retaining the same 39 mm case and 24-hour fixed bezel. It’s equipped with a pale orange GMT hand that stands out prominently against the “polar” white dial. Initial thoughts Three years after its initial release, the Black Bay Pro remains one of the strongest value propositions in the sub–US$5,000 segment of dual time zone watches. Priced at US$4,375 on a steel bracelet, the Black Bay Pro is a true GMT with an independently adjustable local hour hand. Plus it features a solid bracelet with a micro-adjust clasp and a high-spec in-house movement. Naturally, the fact that it’s reminiscent of the Rolex Explorer II “polar” doesn’t hurt. The only drawback is the 14.6 mm case that is a little too thick for its compact diameter. Fortunately, Tudor does offer a better proportioned dual time zone with the Black Bay 58 GMT, but that’s only available in black and burgundy for now. Opaline dial The domed white dial is the star of the show. Like the original model, it features applied luminous ceramic-polymer hour markers. Here the markings are in black on a matte white dial, matched with an orange GMT hand. Apart from the dial, the watch remains identical to the earlier Black Bay Pro. It features a 39 mm case housing the COSC-certified MT5652 movement, which operates at 28,800 beat...

Over 22 of the Best Dive Watches for Under $1,000 Worn & Wound
Citizen G-SHOCK Bulova Apr 6, 2025

Over 22 of the Best Dive Watches for Under $1,000

In this video, we crafted a list of some of the best dive watches on the market that meet the desired specifications of 200 meters of water resistance and some sort of countdown timer capabilities. We take a look at watches from brands like Tissot, Seiko, Citizen, G-SHOCK, Bulova, and CWC, just to name a few. Which watches did we miss? What should we put in part 2? In this video, we crafted a list of some of the best dive watches on the market that meet the desired specifications of 200 meters of water resistance and some sort of countdown timer capabilities. We take a look at watches from brands like Tissot, Seiko, Citizen, G-SHOCK, Bulova, and CWC, just to name a few. Which watches did we miss? What should we put in part 2? The post Over 22 of the Best Dive Watches for Under $1,000 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Sapphire Edge Formex Ceramica Apr 6, 2025

A Week in Watches Ep. 101 – Windup Watch Fair

A Week in Watches Episode 101 takes us inside Windup Watch Fair Dallas. We look at several new releases first on display at the show, including the Fortis Novonaut titanium, Christopher Ward Sapphire Edge, Formex Ceramica, Paulin Modul Zapat, and Horage Deca Flux. We also check out a few fabulous booth displays. The next Windup Watch Fair is in San Francisco from May 2nd to 4th. For more info, visit Windupwatchfair.com. We hope to see you there. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 101 – Windup Watch Fair appeared first on Worn & Wound.

First Look – The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds with a Pink Gold Milanese Bracelet Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Apr 5, 2025

First Look – The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds with a Pink Gold Milanese Bracelet

This year at Watches and Wonders 2025, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s emblematic Reverso, a timeless timepiece dating back to 1931 – as we explained in this in-depth article – will have its moment. Indeed, the brand is focusing entirely on its icon, and with some handsome new releases. In 2023, the slimmer pink gold Reverso Tribute Monoface Small […]

The Insane New Desk Clock from Patek Phillipe Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Apr 4, 2025

The Insane New Desk Clock from Patek Phillipe

Sitting just to my right, on a shelf near my desk, I have a clock. It’s baby blue, shaped like a 1950s retro-futuristic robot, and was given to me by the ‘Tooth Fairy’ the first time I lost a tooth. While subsequent teeth were never rewarded with anything comparable - the going rate in my house was a $1 Sacagawea coin - that blue robot triggered something in me, and I’ve had a bit of a thing for clocks every since. At this point, it’s been probably twenty years since I’ve kept my blue robot clock running. These days, the closest I get to a desk clock is probably my iPhone, which sits on a charging dock in Standby mode whenever I’m at my desk. Still, clocks have remained a fascination of mine, and I’m always here for a great new clock, especially when it’s as over-the-top and, frankly, ridiculous as the latest desk clock from Patek Philippe. The Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock ref. 27000M-001 is everything it says it is - that being a desk clock, and complicated. It’s also very expensive, with a sticker price sitting north of $1 million - which makes the Complicated Desk Clock more of an interesting thought exercise than a practical consideration, though considering that a very similar (albeit less green) clock hammered for $9.5 million as Patek Philippe’s submission for OnlyWatch 2021, $1.2-ish million is a comparative steal. Still, since I saw this thing pop up a few days ago, I’ve had a hard time getting it out of my head, exorbitant...

H. Moser Goes “Pop” with their New Stone Dial Collection Worn & Wound
H. Moser Goes “Pop” Apr 4, 2025

H. Moser Goes “Pop” with their New Stone Dial Collection

It’s well understood at this point that stone dials are experiencing a renaissance in all corners of the watch market. In fact, it might almost be kind of boring to point this out as we continue to see new spins on these dials released on an almost weekly basis. So it would be tempting to say that H. Moser is jumping on the stone dial bandwagon with their new Pop collection, the centerpiece of their Watches & Wonders 2025 strategy. But I don’t think that’s quite fair. Moser, for their part, has been ahead of the curve on stone dials. They’ve released a handful of extremely limited watches with dials crafted from jade, falcon’s eye, and other stones in recent years. And with the Pop collection watches, they’ve done something genuinely creative, combining multiple stones in each dial in unexpected ways across three different models.  The Pop collection exists in the Endeavour line, and makes use of all three watches on the platform: the Endeavour Small Seconds, Endeavour Tourbillon, and Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon Concept. There are six groups of three watches, each making use of a combination of two stones. The stone pairings are Burmese jade and pink opal, lapis lazuli and lemon chrysoprase, and turquoise and coral. Each pairing is executed in two ways, with one stone being dominant in each. So, for example, there’s a Small Seconds model with Burmese jade in the main dial and pink opal in the sub seconds, and another with the opposite. For the tourb...

Introducing – The IWC Big Pilot Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL Protects its Tourbillon from G-Forces Monochrome
IWC Big Pilot Shock Absorber Apr 4, 2025

Introducing – The IWC Big Pilot Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL Protects its Tourbillon from G-Forces

A couple of years ago, IWC introduced a Big Pilot’s watch with a device developed by the brand’s Experimental Engineering Division to protect the movement from extreme shocks. Not any only shock, mind you, but acceleration forces in excess of 30,000Gs (akin to the speed of a battleship shell) that no pilot could survive. Today’s […]

[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Introduces the Tentagraph “Tokyo Lion” Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Introduces Apr 4, 2025

[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Introduces the Tentagraph “Tokyo Lion”

When the Tentagraph was introduced at Watches & Wonders a few years ago, it was, in its way, a pretty radical idea. Grand Seiko, somewhat surprisingly, had never developed a mechanical chronograph to that point, and the high frequency movement at work in the Tentagraph was and is a significant accomplishment. For Watches & Wonders 2025, Grand Seiko has introduced a new spin on the Tentagraph that is perhaps as equally radical as the introduction of the first Tentagraph in 2023. The new Tokyo Lion Tentagraph (reference SLGC009) puts the Tentagraph into a new context entirely, using what might be Grand Seiko’s most avant-garde and aggressive case shape.  The “Lion” chronographs, which have previously only existed with Spring Drive movements, are characterized by a 43mm titanium case with around 40 facets. That, folks, is a lot of facets, and with the Grand Seiko’s zaratsu polishing applied liberally throughout, it’s one of the most dynamic and intriguing cases in their catalog. It’s also, of course, not for everyone. The severe case lines might be a bit of an acquired taste, and the whole thing has an almost M.C. Escher-like quality about it. As someone who personally struggled with geometry in middle school, this case, when I first saw it, gave me no shortage of anxiety.  Over the years though, as I’ve had more experience handling these complex cases, my appreciation has grown, and the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph jumped out to me as one of the more special release...

Introducing – The Impressive Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater Apr 4, 2025

Introducing – The Impressive Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater

Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils a spectacular pink gold Reverso with a minute repeater powered by a new, fully integrated and shaped in-house movement. Taking advantage of the sleek Art Deco geometry of the Reverso and its swivelling case with two faces, the Grande Maison showcases its refined artistic crafts with an elegant guilloché decoration on the front […]

Introducing – New Colours and Stone Dials for the Piaget Andy Warhol Watch Monochrome
Piaget Andy Warhol Watch Piaget’s Apr 4, 2025

Introducing – New Colours and Stone Dials for the Piaget Andy Warhol Watch

Piaget’s swank 15102 reference, better known as the Black Tie watch, captured the zeitgeist of the early 1970s with its oversized 45mm cushion-shaped gold case, dramatic sweeping gadroons and sleek black dial. Reputedly American Pop artist Andy Warhol’s favourite model, Piaget was given the green light last year to rename its cult watch the Andy […]

Rolex Introduces the Oyster Perpetual in Matte Pastel Colours SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Apr 4, 2025

Rolex Introduces the Oyster Perpetual in Matte Pastel Colours

Rolex had a little bit of everything at Watches & Wonders 2025, from the top-of-the-line GMT-Master II to the unexpected, retro-style Settimo bracelet for the Perpetual 1908. But the most accessible offerings are the entry-level Oyster Perpetual 28, 36, and 41 in pastel shades of lavender, beige, and pistachio – all in a matte finish in a first for the current Rolex line-up. Past versions of the Oyster Perpetual have featured dials with surfaces that were either glossy lacquered or metallic brushed, making the new iterations subtly distinct. The 28 mm model with a lavender dial Initial thoughts Like the left-handed GMT-Master II also launched at W&W;, the Oyster Perpetual trio are incremental improvements to existing models, but done well and priced reasonably (even if availability will be challenging). The matte dials in pastel colours give the Oyster Perpetual a more modern feel, which is a notable for a model that is several decades old and largely unchanged in terms of style. As is the norm at Rolex, a new feature – the matte finish in this case – is being released on a limited basis to start with, but I expect matte-finish dials to be found in more models over time. 41 mm with a pistachio green dial Being the entry-level model for Rolex, the Oyster Perpetual is priced modestly, with the most expensive model being the largest, 41 mm version priced at US$6,650. It represents solid value, though obtaining one, at least initial, will be difficult as these will be bes...