Hodinkee
Photo Report: The 2025 Toronto Timepiece Show
Back for its second year, the show is bigger, better, and brighter (and brought out some great watches).
Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys
31,785 articles · 171 videos found · page 497 of 1066
Hodinkee
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Under €1,000 From Small Brands
Another Friday, another list! Today, we’re continuing our series focusing on budget-friendly watches. Not too long ago, we compiled a trio of lists covering the best available watches under €500. For this new series of three articles, we’ll double the budget and focus on the best watches under €1,000. Last week, we kicked off the […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Under €1,000 From Small Brands to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The New Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition Shines in Aventurine
Over the past two decades, the PanoMaticLunar has established itself as one of Glashütte Original’s most recognisable models. Its off-centred time display, Panorama Date, and moon-phase complication have become defining features of the collection, embodying the Saxon approach to precision, order, and poetry. Along the way, the PanoMaticLunar has experimented with colour, moving from the […]
Monochrome
Introducing - Unimatic Joins Up With Morgan, For The Modello Quattro U4-GMT-MMC
Cars and watches are a very natural fit, and have been so since the dawn of the automobile almost 140 years ago. And with that very simple concept in mind, it’s no surprise that we continue to see a wide range of new car-themed watches. Taking inspiration from iconic cars from the past, or the […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Formex Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC 41mm
Earlier this year, Formex surprised us with the skeletonized Formex Essence Ceramica. It showcased just how far the brand could push modern materials and finishing at an accessible price point. The sleek, all-ceramic case and bracelet showcased Formex’s technical prowess, while the skeletonized dial guaranteed a big visual statement. Now Formex returns with a solid-dial […] Visit Hands-On With The New Formex Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC 41mm to read the full article.
SJX Watches
David Candaux Thinks Differentially with the DC12 MaveriK
After a few quiet years, David Candaux has introduced the DC12 MaveriK – the brand’s fourth model and its first without a tourbillon. A deceptively complicated time-only watch, the DC12 features twin escapements linked by a differential, a mechanism deeply rooted in the twentieth century history of the Vallée de Joux. Housed in an organic 39.5 mm titanium case, the DC12 is the most affordable watch yet from the Le Solliat-based watchmaker, but retains the brand’s signature push-button crown below the dial. Initial thoughts An experienced constructor who can count the MB&F; HM6 and Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie among his credits, David Candaux launched his eponymous brand in 2017. But he would be the first to tell you it was not an easy start, managing to sell just 14 watches during his first four years in business. This is not uncommon in the world of independent watchmaking; look around at some of the most popular independent brands today and you’ll hear a similar story about their early days. Mr Candaux’s business subsequently picked up some momentum, and in the past four years the brand claims to have made an additional 42 pieces. If true, it’s an encouraging sign for a watchmaker with something of a chequered past as an independent constructor, who is said to have had difficulty meeting obligations to client brands. In some ways, the DC12 is the embodiment of this journey, being simpler and cheaper than Mr Candaux’s previous models....
Deployant
New: David Candaux DC12 MaveriK - innovation from Le Soliat
David Candaux releases his next watch the DC12 MaveriK, with two balance wheels driven by a differential, and protected by three patents.
Time+Tide
Frederique Constant expands the Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture range with two new dials in steel, plus a luxurious gold halo model
The most affordable perpetual calendar on the market gets silver and blue dials in steel plus a baller yellow gold, onyx-dialled model.The post Frederique Constant expands the Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture range with two new dials in steel, plus a luxurious gold halo model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Recapping the G-SHOCK Showroom Takeover Kick-Off Event at Windup Watch Shop
From September 18th through the 21st, the Windup Watch Shop showroom in Brooklyn hosted something a little different: a full takeover by G-SHOCK, along with Casio, Edifice, and Pro Trek. Over four days-and especially during Thursday night’s kick-off-the space buzzed with enthusiasts, collectors, and the digital-watch curious, all eager to get hands-on with the toughness, design, and community spirit that have made G-SHOCK a cultural icon. Our Brooklyn-based Windup Watch Shop showroom was fully reimagined for the event. In addition to our usual selection, visitors found an expanded lineup of watches, from core staples to the latest releases, available at special showroom-only pricing. Just as important, G-SHOCK brought more than product. Brand representatives were on hand throughout the takeover, sharing stories, answering questions, and even running the drop-test machine-a live demo proving that “Absolute Toughness” isn’t just a tagline. The Thursday evening kick-off set the tone for the entire weekend. Sushi, Japanese treats, and drinks kept the atmosphere relaxed while a giveaway and exclusive G-SHOCK swag added to the excitement. Both G-SHOCK and Worn & Wound teams mingled with the crowd, sparking conversations, encouraging hands-on time, and comparing their Squares, Mudmen, CasiOaks and more. A true highlight of the night was the wrist-shot station. With Worn & Wound’s staff photographer capturing attendees’ G-SHOCKs in action, the first hour turned i...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Would You Buy a $1,000 Timex Diver? The New Marine M1a.
Timex debuts the Marine M1a, a $950 Swiss-made dive watch and the first release under its new high-end Atelier line.
Teddy Baldassarre
15 Best Purple-Dial Watches From Affordable to Luxury
Purple is the color of royalty, and it appears that a Purple Reign has started to quietly take over the watch world in recent years, with violet hues finding their way to an increasing number of dials, from a somewhat surprisingly diverse range of watch brands. Like their predecessors in green, red, and orange, purple dials are still, in fact, something of a novelty; many of the timepieces featured below are intended for a niche, limited audience. Nevertheless, the rise of purple tones on watch dials is worthy of notice, and almost certainly here to stay for a while, Here we’ve gathered 15 of our favorite purple-dial watches in ascending order of price, from under $500 to over $85K. Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Sunray Purple Dial Price: $475, Case Size: 37mm, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Caliber 8210 Best known for its light-powered Eco-Drive movements, Japan’s Citizen also offers a lineup of mechanical timepieces, including the NJ015 automatic series, nicknamed “Tsuyosa,” a Japanese word meaning “strength.” Speaking to the contemporary trend towards eye-catching colorful dials, Tsuyosa models offer a variety of them, with a subtle sunburst finish, including the purple dial watch above. The round, chamfered steel cases measure 40mm in diameter and 11.7mm thick, with an unconventionally positioned crown at 4 o’clock for better ergonomics on the wrist. The bracelet has what Citizen describes as a “mountain-shaped” design ...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New March LA-B Mansart Small Second Collection
March LA-B is a French brand with a characterful design language, founded in 2008 by three close friends – Alain Marhic, Jérôme Mage and Joseph Châtel – fusing French horological heritage and Los Angeles design culture. The watches are original and full of character, fairly accessible and, for most of them, rely on a distinctive […]
Worn & Wound
From the Seiko SKX to the SPB317: How I Fell in Love with Seiko Again
At the end of summer 2014, Dad gave me my first mechanical watch. There was nothing ceremonial about it; he simply handed me the box in the car. “I’m starting a new tradition, and it’s a grown-up gift since you’re heading to college,” he said. I looked down at the box. It said Seiko. I was familiar with the brand. In fact, it was what I had been wearing up to that point: reference SNE039, a mid-sized solar-powered watch that Grandpa gave me when he saw me showing interest in it. I still have it. But this Seiko was different. It was a reference SKX173, a sibling of the beloved SKX007 dive watch that has led many a good man down the rabbit hole. It had a waterproof case, rotating dive bezel that I had no clue how to operate, and most importantly, an automatically winding movement. “It’s easy – just shake it a bit to get it going,” said Dad. (OGs will remember the caliber 7s26’s lack of hand winding). I took the watch out of the box and shuffled it back and forth gently to coax it to life. It did, and as I stared at the sweeping seconds hand, I marveled that a microscopic team of gears, levers, and springs were all working harmoniously just to tell time. As an incoming engineering student, I couldn’t have asked for a better gift. I secured the black rubber strap on my wrist, and that was that. The remainder of the summer was spent reading everything I could get my hands on about Seiko watches and mechanical timekeeping at large. The excitement of movin...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The ID Geneve Circular C SDG Limited Edition
The young Swiss watchmaker becomes the first luxury watch brand to partner with the United Nations on a watch that symbolizes and supports the organization's Sustainable Development Goals.
Fratello
ID Genève Introduces The Circular SDG Timepiece At Climate Week New York
Since 2020, ID Genève has produced watches with a more sustainable and equitable future in mind. The brand’s 100% Swiss-made timepieces feature innovative components, such as self-healing carbon fiber, reprocessed stainless steel, and leather-alternative straps. To celebrate the 10th anniversary of the 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) of the United Nations, ID Genève launches the […] Visit ID Genève Introduces The Circular SDG Timepiece At Climate Week New York to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Timex Launches “Timex Atelier” with the New Marine M1a
Timex is continuing its experiment with higher-end horology with its latest release, the Timex Atelier Marine M1a, which the brand describes as a spiritual successor to the Giorgio Galli series and the first watch in the new Timex Atelier line. The Galli series garnered attention for being “luxury Timex,” with minimalist design, higher-grade cases - like the titanium Giorgio Galli S2Ti - and, biggest of all, that prestigious “Swiss-made” label. Timex says the Marine M1a is the “next chapter” in the brand’s history as it continues to build watches in Switzerland with higher-end materials and movements than typical Timex watches. In the case of the Marine M1a, that means a 41mm skeletonized stainless-steel case with an iron-plating coated midcase, a brushed-steel bracelet, a ceramic bezel, Superlominva-filled indices, and an enamel dial. The watch is powered by a Catena SA100 automatic movement finished with Geneva stripes and perlage that you can get an easy look at through the watch’s exhibition caseback. It’s a bit more conservative in design than the retro-minimalism of the Galli watches, and, in the words of Timex’s chief creative director, Giorgio Galli himself, was “not designed to impress at a glance,” but to “be discovered, slowly, over time.” There are many details to discover over time. A signed crown, silver-applied indices, a movement rotor engraved with “Timex Atelier.” But the watch isn’t just aesthetic-oriented - with a...
Monochrome
First Look - The New Czapek Antarctique Mount Erebus with Stone Dials
Just five years after its launch, Czapek responded to a request from friends and shareholders for a luxury sports watch. Released in 2020, the elegant Antarctique sports watch, featuring an integrated bracelet and powered by the brand’s first in-house calibre, was a fresh face on the scene. Responding to yet another request from clients, Czapek […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Meteorite
When it comes to planetarium wristwatches, Christiaan van der Klaauw (CvdK) has little competition, since it owns much of the intellectual property behind the complication. But that hasn’t stopped the brand from competing with itself, and the result the Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite, the most complete model of the solar system ever put in a wristwatch. It’s a maximalist approach to the planetarium concept that’s almost overwhelming in look and feel, thanks to the rich texture of its solid 44 mm meteorite case and busy dial. Building on the Grand Planetarium Eccentric from 2024, the Eccentric Meteorite manages to squeeze in the astroid belt, which is itself embellished with chunks of meteorite that originated on Mars. Intended to be a limited edition of three pieces, it’s possible that just two will be made given the limited quantity of meteorite on hand. The sun at the center of the dial functions as a running indicator, rotating once per minute. Initial thoughts The planetarium is among the most romantic of all complications due to its inherent uselessness; unlike a minute repeater or perpetual calendar, there’s not much action that can be taken with the information provided. But mankind has sought to understand its place in the universe for millennia, and the planetarium offers an intuitive way to visualise our real-time location relative to the sun and the other planets in our solar system. There’s also a strange appeal to the glacially slow speed of...
Fratello
Looking At The New Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon
Glashütte Original was founded in 1845, and to commemorate this milestone, the brand has unveiled a stunning new PanoLunarTourbillon. As we’ll see, the watch showcases the best of the manufacture, featuring an in-house movement and dial. With a limited production run and flagship status, this watch won’t be for everyone, but it’s a great example […] Visit Looking At The New Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The new Tudor 1926 Luna, the Brand’s First Moonphase Watch
When you think about Tudor, you probably have in mind the image of a cool Submariner-inspired dive watch, with a retro-styled case and dial, and a solid manufacture movement by Kenissi inside. What I’ve just described is basically the Black Bay collection, which has been the brand’s cornerstone for over a decade. With this in […]
SJX Watches
Tudor’s First-Ever Moon Phase Wristwatch
In a surprise launch from a brand best known for its dive watches, Tudor just rolled out the 1926 Luna. It’s a thinnish, 39 mm dress watch with a moon phase – a first for Tudor – as well as a date, though in the typical Tudor style the case is still rated to 100 m and fitted to a solidly constructed steel bracelet. And unusually for a new launch from Tudor, the 1926 Luna is equipped with an ETA (or Sellita) calibre, which means lower specs than models powered by Tudor’s in-house movements, but also substantially more affordable at just US$2,800 or CHF2,400. The 1926 Luna debuts in three dial colours, including a champagne iteration that was conceived with the help of Jay Chou, a Taiwanese singer who’s one of the most famous musicians in the Mandarin-speaking world. Initial thoughts Tudor has long excelled at sports watches with high specs and low prices – making them some of the best value propositions out there – but dress watches have always been a weakness. The brand has made several attempts at dress watches with mixed results. The 1926 Luna, on the other hand, is much more promising. The design is classical, even a little conservative, but the look is appealing. The brushed dial in metallic colours give this a much more modern look than the rest of the 1926 line, which appears a little dated. Purists will complain about the date window, and it probably looks better on a leather strap than a bracelet, but the 1926 Luna is a strong proposition in its price...
Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre pays homage to the 1940s with a gorgeous grey sector dial Master Control Calendar
Inspired by 40s calendar watches and sporting a two-tone grained sector dial, this Master Control is an exercise in understated panache.The post Jaeger-LeCoultre pays homage to the 1940s with a gorgeous grey sector dial Master Control Calendar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
IWC is Timekeeper for First Commercial Space Station
Founded by a crypto billionaire, Vast is developing the first-ever commercial space station, and IWC is now its official timekeeper. The IWC-Vast partnership continues the watchmaker’s recent involvement with commercial and civilian space travel, which included a series of special watches for the first all-civilian space flight in 2021. The Vast control centre Vast was founded in 2021 by Jed McCaleb, an entrepreneur who set up the now defunct crypto exchange Mt. Gox and later helped develop Ripple, a crypto platform. With a ten-figure fortune from his crypto ventures, Mr McCaleb has funded Vast and its ambition of creating artificial gravity space stations. Inside Haven-1 Sometime in 2026, Vast is planning to launch Haven-1, a small space station in low Earth orbit. Over the next two decades, Vast aims to build larger stations and eventually a fleet of them. Haven-1 under construction What can we expect from IWC partnership? According to IWC, the tie-up will “enable IWC to… develop spaceflight-ready watches. At Vast headquarters, Vast engineers will test prototypes… in a similar way to some of the hardware that will fly on Haven Demo and Haven-1 – a testament to the authenticity of IWC’s aerospace lineage.”
Monochrome
Introducing - Formex Dresses its Bestseller in Full-Ceramic with the New Essence Ceramica
Formex, founded in 2000, is renowned for its rugged action watches. The brand’s bestselling Essence, a sporty, all-terrain model with sharp case architecture, a patented suspension system, and COSC-certified movements, made its debut in 2018 and was refreshed in 2021 with a wider range of dial colours. Marking its 25th anniversary, Formex released its first […]
Fratello
Hands-On: The New Grand Seiko SLGB005 With A Mesmerizingly Beautiful Purple Dial
Usually, new dial variations tend to be the least surprising novelties in the watch world. If we’re talking about a new Grand Seiko dial, though, I’m all ears. When I first saw the Grand Seiko SLGB005 in a lineup of six models, it didn’t instantly grab my attention. The recently released “Sunrise” Tentagraph SLGC006 and […] Visit Hands-On: The New Grand Seiko SLGB005 With A Mesmerizingly Beautiful Purple Dial to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Endgame Watches
Is there such a thing as an endgame watch? It’s not something we often consider. But just about two weeks ago, Henry wrote an article about his new Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600, referring to it as the ultimate diver and his “endgame” watch. This got us thinking about what this would be for us, so today […] Visit Fratello Talks: Endgame Watches to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko’s UFA in Steel for the First Time
Grand Seiko unveils a second model in its Ultra Fine Accuracy (UFA) collection, the Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA SLGB005. Featuring a violet-black dial inspired by Shinshu winter sunrises and powered by the latest generation spring drive technology, it represents everything Grand Seiko does best. Limited to 1,300 pieces, the 37 mm SLGB005 is made from the brand’s proprietary Ever-Brilliant steel, an especially hard-wearing alloy that’s making its debut in the Evolution 9 Spring Drive line-up. Initial thoughts The Spring Drive UFA SLGB003 “Ice Forest” was arguably one of the most important releases of this year, finally delivering a long-awaited mid-sized Grand Seiko Spring Drive, complete with an adjustable clasp and tightened accuracy rating. The SLGB005 feels like a worthy counterpart in another metal, quantifiably excellent inside and out. The SLGB005 retains the nearly perfect proportions of its titanium sibling at 37 mm in diameter and 11.4 mm thick, in a slightly heavier Ever-Brilliant steel case. Though Grand Seiko has used this material in the past, it’s the first time it’s been used for a Spring Drive watch in Evolution 9 guise, and also the first to be made at Shiojiri. This is a new colour of an existing dial pattern. Grand Seiko’s dial work is always excellent, especially the hands and dial furniture, which are finished to unusually high standards. The Spring Drive movement remains the same and excellent. While not mechanical, I’d argue that Spr...
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko unveils new SLGB005 ‘Ice Forest - Violet Dawn” U.F.A. limited edition in steel
Grand Seiko's U.F.A. range now has a purple dial limited edition and a first-ever Ever-Brilliant Steel case and bracelet.The post Grand Seiko unveils new SLGB005 ‘Ice Forest – Violet Dawn” U.F.A. limited edition in steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A.
Grand Seiko releases a new addition to their Spring Drive U.F.A model with Caliber 9RB2 which was first shown at WWG this year. The new release is in a special stainless steel and a deep violet textured dial. Press Release information with commentary in italics. New Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. The Grand Seiko SpringRead More
SJX Watches
Explained: Dial Making at A. Lange & Söhne
Since its rebirth in 1994, A. Lange & Söhne has built an enviable reputation among collectors, based in large part on its rich portfolio of movements. Visiting the manufacture in Glashütte, it’s easy to see why; nearly all of the roughly 650 staff are engaged in some aspect of movement production. As a result, in little more than 30 years, Lange has commercialised 75 distinct calibers and has the manpower to apply a consistent level of finishing across the entire range, from the simple to the sublime. Historically, this single-minded focus on movements has meant that dials have often taken a back seat. Though uniformly high quality and made of noble materials like sterling silver and solid 18k gold, the brand’s dials tend to be simple, classical, and austere. An obvious exception that springs to mind is the sapphire crystal-dialed Lumen series, but sapphire crystal is a common material in watchmaking and these dials tend to be produced in a relatively industrial manner. Despite its focus on movements, Lange began to stretch its wings with artisanal dials as far back as the year 2000, first with enamel and later with mother-of-pearl, guilloché, tremblage, free-hand engraving, aventurine glass, and onyx. Most of these dials were produced by suppliers, but the brand has quietly built an immensely talented team of engravers and enamellists since launching the Handwerkskunst editions in 2011, and now crafts some of the industry’s most extraordinary dials within its own...