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Interview: Marc Michel-Amadry, Managing Director of Girard-Perregaux SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Appointed Managing Director Nov 11, 2025

Interview: Marc Michel-Amadry, Managing Director of Girard-Perregaux

Appointed Managing Director of Girard-Perregaux (GP) in early 2025, Marc Michel-Amadry has over two decades of leadership experience spanning both the auction world and fine watchmaking. A former head of Sotheby’s Switzerland and Chief Commercial Officer of IWC, he steps into the role at a pivotal moment for GP, which has spent the past three years refining its identity as an independent brand, alongside its sister brand Ulysse Nardin in the Sowind Group. I sat down with Mr Michel-Amadry not long after he took office to discuss what he has in store. Our conversation touched on the enduring relevance of the Laureato, the renewed importance of in-house innovation, and his plans to restore GP to its former glory. The interview was edited for length and clarity. SJX: You’ve covered a wide range of the industry, having worked with niche brands, major brands, and big groups. Tell us how you ended up at GP. MMA: People often tell me I don’t have a typical career path. Usually, you start somewhere and stay within the same group. But for me, every step has to have a purpose. I’ve always wanted to work for a brand that means something. By coincidence, I was born in La Chaux-de-Fonds - the home of GP. It’s a brand I’ve always followed. I met Luigi Macaluso early in my career and was struck by the sophistication and beauty of the brand. Beyond its know-how and history, GP has always expressed its own design because everything is in-house. Luigi “Gino” Macaluso, forme...

Why Watches Use IIII Roman Numerals Instead Of IV Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 10, 2025

Why Watches Use IIII Roman Numerals Instead Of IV

Watches with Roman numerals on the dial are among the most stylish and classically elegant of timepieces, despite the fact that most of them have what we might today refer to as an egregious typo. Then again, it’s not really a typo if it’s intentional, right? And the use of a "IIII" in place of the standard Roman numeral "IV" is clearly a conscious decision, as it's been commonplace for centuries. In this article, we offer some possibilities as to why. As anyone familiar with the Roman alphabet knows - and nowadays that probably includes anyone who pays attention to Super Bowl advertising - the Arabic numerals 1, 2, and 3 are rendered, respectively, as I, II, and III, but the format changes with the numeral 4, which is rendered as “IV,” and 5, which is simply “V.” Without getting too bogged down in an ancient alphabetization lesson, the first three numerals after zero (and after 5) are additive, while the one before the next major character, representing 5, is subtractive: “IV” stands for 4 because it’s five (V) minus one (I). And yet, take a glance at just about any watch dial, or clock dial, for that matter, that uses Roman numerals to denote its hours and most often you will find not a “IV” but a “IIII” - the so-called “clockmaker’s 4,” which differs from the Roman numeral we’re familiar with today.  Making watches, as any aficionado knows, is one of the most meticulous, time-intensive, and detail-oriented pursuits in the world...

Les Must de Cartier: The Misunderstood Entry-Level Cartier Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier Nov 10, 2025

Les Must de Cartier: The Misunderstood Entry-Level Cartier

The Cartier of today is undeniably a symbol of luxury and has strategically manufactured that imagery. From its quintessential deep red boxes with gold filigree border to its looping cursive script, even before you get to the object itself, whether it be jewelry or a watch, the brand has carefully crafted the entire experience of its product to position it as such. But today, we’re taking a look at an anomaly in the maison’s past, for which Cartier descended from its luxurious heights to extend its hand to the mass market. Les Must de Cartier is representative of a pivotal time in the history of watchmaking, and its contrasting accessibility played a crucial role in the maison’s longevity and its ability to weather shifting market trends. Down below, I’ll be walking you through how Must de Cartier came to be, some significant design codes, how the line has reemerged after its discontinuation, and share some musings and philosophical ponderings about this strange chapter in Cartier’s history.    Les Must de Cartier Context From its relatively humble beginnings as a local, artisanal jewelry workshop in 1847, by the turn of the 20th century, Cartier had already established itself as a global luxury powerhouse, operating in London, New York, and Paris by 1909. Each independent branch of Cartier at this time was operated by a trio of Louis-François Cartier’s grandsons, and while they often collaborated, each location developed its own unique flair and catered to ...

The New Ming 37.11 Odyssey Adds a GMT Complication to their Popular Dive Watch Form Factor Worn & Wound
Ming Nov 10, 2025

The New Ming 37.11 Odyssey Adds a GMT Complication to their Popular Dive Watch Form Factor

The latest from Ming is a continuation of their incredibly popular diver lineup, the current incarnation of which began with the 37.09 “Bluefin” and was later followed up with the 37.09 “Uni”. Both of those watches very effectively made use of a dual crown system (one for time setting, one for rotating an internal bezel that is not really a bezel at all), streamlined proportions, and Ming’s expertise in using sapphire and lume for both decorative and functional purposes. The new 37.11 Odyssey is an expansion of the ideas found in the Bluefin and Uni, with an added GMT feature and the option to spec the watch on the absolutely insane Polymesh bracelet. When we had our meeting with Ming earlier this year at Geneva Watch Days, this was the watch that brand founder Ming Thein was wearing on his wrist. I’ll be honest, the Polymesh bracelet kind of stole the show in that presentation, overshadowing the Odyssey just a little, but that’s simply because the Polymesh was a legitimately novel creation, while the Odyssey is something a little more familiar. That’s not a slight, of course. One of the things that makes Ming such an impressive brand is the way a clarity of design runs through each new watch they make, always in conversation with earlier pieces. That’s what helps you identify a watch as a Ming, but it can also mean that certain releases don’t create that vibrational spark of interest that really gets you excited.  That said, the Odyssey is an objectiv...

Hands-on – Time in Orbit with the Vanguart Orb Flying Tourbillon Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Nov 10, 2025

Hands-on – Time in Orbit with the Vanguart Orb Flying Tourbillon

Vanguart is a young independent watchmaking brand founded by four men: Thierry Fisher, Jeremy Frelechox, Axel Leuenberger and Mehmet Korutürk. Both Leuenberger and Frelechox previously honed their skills at Audemars Piguet. Fisher is in charge of design. Korutürk has a background in finance and was working for a private equity company. Presented in 2021, their […]

Review: The New Grand Seiko SLGW007 “Moonlit Birch” Deployant
Grand Seiko SLGW007 “Moonlit Birch” DEPLOYANT Nov 10, 2025

Review: The New Grand Seiko SLGW007 “Moonlit Birch”

Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 collection has been killing it recently, and quietly. In 2024, we greeted the arrival of the SLGW003 with praise. It’s bright titanium case, silvery birch bark-inspired dial, and the Evolution 9 design language (which plays hard with the concept of light and shadow) was a winning combination that left a lastingRead More

A GMT with Teeth: The Ming 37.11 Odyssey Bites Back SJX Watches
Ming Nov 10, 2025

A GMT with Teeth: The Ming 37.11 Odyssey Bites Back

Ming’s latest release, the 37.11 Odyssey, builds on the brand’s reputation for luminous, multi-layered dials and inventive designs. The Odyssey takes the visual depth seen in the Bluefin and Uni to the next level with a smoked sapphire dial that reveals the movement beneath, paired with shark-tooth hands and a multi-coloured luminous display. Despite its futuristic appearance, the Odyssey remains a practical travel companion. The compact 38 mm titanium case weighs just 42 g and offers 300 m of water resistance, while the Sellita SW330.M2 movement inside provides caller GMT functionality (with a twist). Available on a rubber strap, a titanium bracelet, or the brand’s new 3D-printed Polymesh strap, the Odyssey showcases Ming’s evolution from a design-driven micro-brand to a mature independent watchmaker with its own distinct language and value proposition. Initial thoughts The Odyssey is appealing because it plays to the brand’s strengths with regard to multi-layered, semi-transparent luminous dials. Like many of Ming’s best watches, including the similarly constructed Bluefin and Uni, the Odyssey provides a pleasing parallax effect thanks to the presence of luminous material on both the dial itself, as well as the underside of the sapphire crystal. The Odyssey takes the layered look even further by revealing hints of the movement through a smoked sapphire crystal dial. The movement is a typical Sellita GMT calibre, customised for Ming with anthracite-coated plat...

Hands-On With The Jack Mason Strat-o-Timer Titanium Diver GMT Fratello
Nov 10, 2025

Hands-On With The Jack Mason Strat-o-Timer Titanium Diver GMT

Jack Mason has certainly been busy! The American brand has taken huge steps in renewing and improving its offerings. Recently, I had a chance to review both the updated Canton and the new Pursuit Pro. The next two releases that landed on my desk were new versions of the popular Strat-o-Timer GMT. After introducing a […] Visit Hands-On With The Jack Mason Strat-o-Timer Titanium Diver GMT to read the full article.

Introducing: Two One-Off Sets Of Three Universal Genève Tribute To Compax Chronographs - “The Nina” Returns Fratello
Universal Genève Nov 10, 2025

Introducing: Two One-Off Sets Of Three Universal Genève Tribute To Compax Chronographs - “The Nina” Returns

Hold your horses; Universal Genève is still warming up for a full launch in 2026. For now, we have to settle for ultra-exclusive stuff. You could call it “clickbait,” but that would be too crude for two sets of three Universal Genève Tribute to Compax chronographs in white and pink gold with different dials. You […] Visit Introducing: Two One-Off Sets Of Three Universal Genève Tribute To Compax Chronographs - “The Nina” Returns to read the full article.

Introducing: The Orient AC0F In Five New Colors Exclusive To Europe Fratello
Orient Nov 9, 2025

Introducing: The Orient AC0F In Five New Colors Exclusive To Europe

In Henry’s article detailing Calatrava-like watches for all budgets, he included the Orient Bambino. The Bambino offers a touch of vintage in a classic time-and-date configuration, accessible to all budgets. To rival the smash-hit Bambino, Orient introduces new European-exclusive colors to the AC0F core collection. The brand has long offered affordable and elegant watches for […] Visit Introducing: The Orient AC0F In Five New Colors Exclusive To Europe to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 36 Vs. Grand Seiko SLGB005 Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGB005 Yes it’s Nov 9, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 36 Vs. Grand Seiko SLGB005

Yes, it’s that time again - time for another Sunday Morning Showdown! This week, we picked two technologically impressive watches. The first is the Rolex Land-Dweller, which debuted during Watches and Wonders in April of this year. The Land-Dweller will go up against the Grand Seiko SLGB005 that was introduced in September of this year. […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 36 Vs. Grand Seiko SLGB005 to read the full article.

Watches of the Navy SEALs: A History of Service Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 8, 2025

Watches of the Navy SEALs: A History of Service

Before getting into the watches of the Navy SEALs, it's worth establishing some context about these modern-day Spartans. Officially established in 1962, the Navy SEALs, one of the U.S. military’s most elite special operations units, has its origins in World War II, with the formation of organized maritime commando teams for covert reconnaissance of landing beaches and the mounting of coastal defenses. At first designated as Amphibious Scouts and Raiders, and later as Underwater Demolitions Teams (UDTs), the graduates of the Joint Expeditionary Base in Little Creek, Virginia served admirably in the European and Pacific Theater in the years following the 1942 attack on Pearl Harbor. In the Korean War that began in 1950, an expanded force of UDT operatives played a key role, turning their covert and demolition expertise to tunnels, bridges, and other coastal targets, as well as mine sweeping and infiltration.  With another Southeast Asian conflict heating up in Vietnam, President John F. Kennedy urged Congress to allocate more of the military budget to strengthen America’s capabilities in much-needed “unconventional warfare.” The result was the evolution of the UDTs and other special forces into guerrilla and anti-guerilla units that would be able to operate on “Sea, Air, and Land” - the Navy SEALs. SEAL team members, the first generation drawn from the ranks of the UDTs, were trained not only in amphibious activities but skills like hand-to-hand combat and hig...

Reinventing Time: Tissot’s New Era Of NBA Shot Clocks Fratello
Tissot s New Era Nov 8, 2025

Reinventing Time: Tissot’s New Era Of NBA Shot Clocks

Watching an NBA game live is an unforgettable experience for any sports fan. Our third-row seats brought us as close to the action as I’ve ever been. Seeing the players up close, feeling how the parquet floor was shaking under their feet, and hearing the unmistakable buzzer of the new Tissot shot clock put me […] Visit Reinventing Time: Tissot’s New Era Of NBA Shot Clocks to read the full article.

Introducing: The Studio Underd0g × Massena Lab 03Series Champagne & Caviar Fratello
Massena Lab 03Series Champagne & Caviar Nov 8, 2025

Introducing: The Studio Underd0g × Massena Lab 03Series Champagne & Caviar

The Studio Underd0g × Massena Lab 03Series Champagne & Caviar has just been uncorked, and it’s as spirited as its name suggests. This limited-edition monopusher chronograph merges Studio Underd0g’s tongue-in-cheek British design with William Massena’s connoisseur’s eye. The resulting watch celebrates excess. The dial blends the soft glow of champagne with the dark sheen of […] Visit Introducing: The Studio Underd0g × Massena Lab 03Series Champagne & Caviar to read the full article.

In-Depth – 1.85mm… How Did Bulgari Create the World’s Thinnest Tourbillon Watch? Monochrome
Bulgari Create Nov 7, 2025

In-Depth – 1.85mm… How Did Bulgari Create the World’s Thinnest Tourbillon Watch?

At this point in watchmaking history, we can say, without taking too many risks, that Bulgari has become the undisputed master of ultra-thin horology. Breaking one record after another, the Italian/Swiss manufacture has been at the forefront of creativity and ingenuity, and while we are undoubtedly in a golden age of the ultra-thin watch, with […]